Powered on my Shadow today and plunged the ball, which immediately slam tilted the game. Right diverter also doesn't work (if I just let the ball sit in the trough it doesn't short a slam tilt). Checking into the issue - if anyone has any pointers / quick ideas let me know!

Side note: I had pulled the power driver board out and replaced BR2 as the game would not boot - it powered on. I'm sure I shorted something. Retracing steps.

LOL I turned mine on 2 days ago for the first time in a while and have a similar issue. Sometimes pressing the left diverter switch would trigger a slam tilt when switching and other times it simply wouldn't work at all. Note if the machine switched the diverter at the start of a new ball, this didn't trigger the slam tilt and shows that it's associated with the switch and not the diverter itself. I haven't yet looked into it however a quick check of the switch matrix shows these 2 switches are associated with an always closed and the left ramp entry. I was going to suggest checking the switch diodes, but the left ramp entry is an opto and is normally closed ... so now I'm not sure.

Switch Matrix (resized).JPG

Forgive me.. it's the right phurba that doesn't fire. I can't figure out what would change off of me flipping out BR2 on the power driver board. I just did a reseat and the same issue is around, so I don't think it's a physical short up by the board.

Are you seeing the switch activate in switch test? Does the coil fire in test?

Haha sorry mate - early morning here. I just reread your original post and yet it's totally different behaviour to what I had ... better go make myself a coffee.

Hope you get it sorted

I started a new thread here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-slam-tilt-on-plunge

What’s happen shadow fam... I’m not sure what’s up but I turned on my shadow and the battlefield mech was just grinding the motor all the way to the right and wouldn’t stop so I had to cut the power to the mech, I replaced the board and that resolved that, however now the motor is very slow and doesn’t respond when trying to move and sometimes just doesn’t work at all. Any help would be way cool thank you. I also have purchased and new motor assembly.. not sure but there maybe some kind of bind but I can see it. In the case something is tweaked does anyone have any parts or tacking assembly... thank you again and be blessed

going through my newly acquired machine and noticing the phurba diverter crank arm assy has some significant wear. That part is available, (A-18983) for an overpriced amount of 40.00...but the plunger is also worn a bit and I'd like to replace it if possible...still serviceable but I'm there now... , but I don't see it at marco or pinball life..or from PSPA...anyone have any leads on this part? part number 02-5135 (armature)

Yeah I guess not broken, the burr from the crank caused most of the damage...I guess it will have to do for now...

Wanted to update this, found a broken wire on the Upper Right Flipper.
Fixed both orange wires on the upper right- error still there
Removed and re-solder on both the orange and black on the lower right flipper- error still there.

Not sure what to check next......

4E5CE2C8-E2C6-48B6-B562-4741C02271F4 (resized).jpeg

With the PF raised, move the flipper bat to it maximum stroke position and see if the EOS switch points make contact.

Also go into switch test mode with the coin door closed and pressing the left flipper you should see 3 switches activate, pressing the right flipper you'll see 4 (if you stage the flippers you'll see 2 for each).

Let us know what you find

The error is GONE! PO must have had the wires installed backwards, I just flipped them around turned the machine on and it is fixed, hopefully doesn’t come back now!

And I went into the switch test and am getting exactly what you are saying!

Thanks for the pictures they helped a ton!

Now time for bed and will work on the lights next.

I had the typical air balls off the left ramp targets.
They are in OK shape and not bent.
Replaced the foam with flipper rubber as was advised and it's VERY fast bounceback, lots more drains than anything.
The foam absorbs the impact better vs. the rubber bouncing it back real fast.
The flipper rubber also doesn't adhere well to the metal and keeps falling off after a few games.

Anyone think a plastic protector above the targets would help?

In you particular case, a plastic protector might be the way to go. Alternatively have you tried bending the switch target brackets so that the target lean slightly forward - this way when the ball compresses the foam the target won't be angled up and hopefully would mean the ball won't get airborne as it bounces back off the target

I need some new cabinet decals...my go to was pinballdecals.eu anyone have any other alternative to them?...

Very hard to find, not sure they even exist. Someone should license them from PPS and offer them. Demand would be pretty high I think.

yeah they have them....I guess its my only option right now...https://pinballdecals.eu/?s=shadow&dgwt-wcas-search-submit=&post_type=product&dgwt_wcas=1.

Anyone have an Aurich translite/speaker panel to sell. I am on the waitlist but figured I would check to see if anyone was hoarding them during the pandemic

They also have the cabinet decals over at pinballcenter. Once they're removed the European VAT tax, comes to 162€. I don't know much about them, but I was about to make an order..

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/the-shadow/9489/cabinet-decal-set-for-the-shadow?c=0

Yeah I'm not sure they're shipping to the USA right now...for that matter not sure if pinballdecals is either...reached out ...waiting for a reply

Be careful, quality may be an issue on those. I had looked into them and decided against buying. They aren’t licensed. Maybe someone who has bought them can chime in.

Do not buy decals, translites or plastics from Pinball Center in Germany!
Altough they offer some stuff cheaply that is either very expensive elsewhere or simply nowhere else to be found, their quality sucks!
I needed the missing Arwen plastic for my LOTR and print quality was very very bad, still better than nothing but man...
Heared the same things about decals and translites so be warned: their printer sucks!

Good to know!! They're not replying to emails anyway, so that's a bad sign.. we're becoming so limited with cabinet decals, I'm looking at Shadow, also Tron eventually (luckily, still some left at Marco)

How difficult would it be to find a file for Shadow art, then have it quality printed locally? I used to have banners printed on vinyl for our hockey team, top quality stuff. That same shop was doing wall sized with high dpi for home use, just needed a raw file or .pdf

Hell I'd be up for a custom one If someone came up with one......I've purchased from pinballdecals.eu before, it was for my high speed (which is a pretty basic art design) and they were what I expected...

My understanding is that only the backbox side artwork was retained

Hi all,

I just got a replacement plastics set for my shadow and noticed a few things. Hoping someone can help me out based on my pics.

1) there are two bolts through the plastic right by the upper flipper that aren’t doing anything. I have a pic pointing to them. Looking through images, I think it might be for a mongol figure. Is that correct?

2) the big plastic piece under the left diverted, between the outer orbit and shadow loop had a clear piece of plastic mounted above it with some spacers by four bolts. My new set doesn’t have a matching piece, and the holes don’t line up to use the old piece. I did find a new piece that might fit, but there are only two bolts, and it seems a little weird that it would just be suspended in air. I have pics of the old plastic and the new one held in place. Can someone confirm this is correct?

3) I have a rectangular clear piece that I can’t for the life of me, figure out where it goes. Again, you can reference the pic. Can anyone point me to the correct placement for that?

Thanks in advance!

6CAD49BA-4EC1-4E7E-9F1B-2ED82D01E8B4 (resized).jpeg

D3AA5F37-B0E9-4157-BC37-C73620EDD300 (resized).jpeg

E1C72A25-849C-4B78-8E48-5577D6F750C3 (resized).jpeg

E6B2E547-678A-4F13-9405-167E9A12A97B (resized).jpeg

The big rectangular piece goes under the battlefield... it's a stuck ball protector

1) yes to the Mongol, 2) needs some posts/spacers? I'll look again 3) like he said
20201125_002039 (resized).jpg

Quick question on the upper flipper alignment. Is the proper alignment where the rubber is resting on the guiderail behind the flipper (as in above pic)? Or should the flipper be parallel with the guide rail?

Also, anyone know where I can get new nuts/bolts that hold the two sides of the gun together? Mine is missing a set.

Rubber resting on the rail. I posted about this a couple months back. Went to the extent of watching original promo video and looking at flyer from when game was released back in the 90s. It is definitely resting on rail.

https://www.mcmaster.com/96754A105

This is the proper size? Add 2 to cart and go?

I have not tried these as of yet, but they should fit. When I have my gun replated I was going to use these as mine are rusted badly.

Guess I'll have to take the one I have out and measure, to make sure it will fit correctly. thanks!

I picked up a set about a month ago from pinballdecals.eu and they look really good to me . Haven’t installed them yet . My machine isn’t really that bad so I’m not in a hurry .
1B2E1624-A46F-46B6-BDDE-F2C129CD2E2F (resized).jpeg

What details are you getting up close? For example, this is a closeup of the eye of The Shadow, side decal..

VideoCapture_20201125-175004.jpg

That's not what my wife says.

Mine turned out rather nice!!

pasted_image (resized).png

It is, in fact, the correct size

I'm getting a lot of rejects from my battlefield VUK. Am I correct in assuming that it needs 2 post sleeves on either side? Will that help with the rejects?

20201126_085544 (resized).jpg

Answered my own question. 2 post sleeves definitely make a huge difference.

Interesting - I'm pretty sure that factory is to only have the post sleeve on the one post.

I tested it about 10 times from the right flipper and it went in every time. Before, it would reject at least 50% of the time. The post sleeve that was there was pretty crusty, so I dont know if it was because I put a fresh sleeve there or if it was due to the 2, but just from the test, it certainly plays better. I haven't put in any real games yet, so I guess the verdict is still out there?

Every metal post always needs some kind of rubber sleeve or ring. Can't have the ball beating into a metal post.

The Shadow Knows!

2F6C7C4C-84BF-449C-971C-00F0231C8BB1 (resized).jpeg

Hi all! I have had some issues with my shadow in the past and this forum helped. I turned it on and got this :

https://app.box.com/s/5l03tzjozzp4h6mhd96f0ncabz84ztss

It looks as though the board on the far left isn't getting power, or is something even worse. What is the recommendation?

Thanks