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(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,657 posts
  • 602 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by hocuslocus
  • Topic is favorited by 205 Pinsiders

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There are 7657 posts in this topic. You are on page 151 of 154.
#7501 31 days ago

Wondering if anyone has experienced this or knows the fix. The Kicker for the Battlefield moves left to right just fine, but it does not kick when it is on the very left. Kicks fine in the center and right positions, but nothing on the left. So it seems like the opto is at least partially working. Don't see any loose wires or connections.

IMG_20200920_111744 (resized).jpg
#7502 31 days ago

Since we’re on the topic of fixing things, does anyone have a link to an explanation of how to expand range of motion for a flipper? I just got my machine, so have no idea how to do this, or if it’s even possible.

Attached is one photo of my 3rd flipper, and one from the PAPA tutorial for reference.

97DF61B9-4BA1-480D-AA74-278DE8FCD2EC (resized).jpeg4F103FCD-6419-4B4D-A7DD-DE7000353A1C (resized).png
#7503 31 days ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Yes, it doesn't have...
-An (often boring) lower playfield
-A vari-target (like in Ripley's, although Ripley's is the only other pin that has a lock similar to Shadow)
-Drop targets
-A shooter (like Dirty Harry, T2, Aerosmith).
-A subway
-A bash toy
-And pops, as mentioned
-Playfield multipliers (Code)
-A captive ball
-A spinning disk, like Whirl Wind, X-Men, TMNT
-A spinner
-A plunger
-Midnight madness
Based on the above gaps, Walking Dead Premium may be a good one, or possibly Avengers.
Wow, this list is longer than I thought it'd be.

Amazing how many features The Shadow doesn’t have, yet manages to be such a clever, fun and challenging game!

#7504 31 days ago
Quoted from aFineMoose:

Since we’re on the topic of fixing things, does anyone have a link to an explanation of how to expand range of motion for a flipper? I just got my machine, so have no idea how to do this, or if it’s even possible.
Attached is one photo of my 3rd flipper, and one from the PAPA tutorial for reference.
[quoted image][quoted image]

There's something definitely wrong with your upper flipper - there are flipper rebuild kits available, which will replace the various components that wear out (coil sleeve, coil stop, plunger and link etc). In doing the rebuild, you'll possibly work out what the issue was that was causing the lack of movement, but a rebuild will also ensure that your flippers are powerful and work properly. If you can't remove the sleeve from the coil (partially melted) then you may need a new coil as well - check this before ordering your rebuild kit as then you can order the coil as the same time

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WFLTRON-1L2R - this kit will do all 3 flippers

#7505 31 days ago
Quoted from rickyray:

Wondering if anyone has experienced this or knows the fix. The Kicker for the Battlefield moves left to right just fine, but it does not kick when it is on the very left. Kicks fine in the center and right positions, but nothing on the left. So it seems like the opto is at least partially working. Don't see any loose wires or connections.
[quoted image]

Does your kicker paddle bat slightly lean to the left? Such that when the kicker is over on the far left, the bat catches the lefthand side of the battlefield opto bracket? I've seen this before as there was too much play with the square kicker shaft in the bracket - I found that I could squeeze the bracket such that it reduce the amount of lean on the kicker which in turn provided clearance from hitting the opto bracket on the upperside of the mini PF.

#7506 31 days ago

It’s kinda funny how this awesome pin is bringing $4600-4700 for a nice/loaded one, which is prob justified these days. Fantastic pin. I sold mine last fall for $4,150, with color DMD and Aurich package, and got price-policed. I felt so badly about it I let it go for $1800.

#7507 31 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

It’s kinda funny how this awesome pin is bringing $4600-4700 for a nice/loaded one, which is prob justified these days. Fantastic pin. I sold mine last fall for $4,150, with color DMD and Aurich package, and got price-policed. I felt so badly about it I let it go for $1800.

If thats the case ill be sure to guilt you into selling me some of your games

#7508 31 days ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

If thats the case ill be sure to guilt you into selling me some of your games

#7509 31 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

It’s kinda funny how this awesome pin is bringing $4600-4700 for a nice/loaded one, which is prob justified these days. Fantastic pin. I sold mine last fall for $4,150, with color DMD and Aurich package, and got price-policed. I felt so badly about it I let it go for $1800.

Quoted from Graysonsdad:

If thats the case ill be sure to guilt you into selling me some of your games

Can I use this tactic for Ghostbusters?? I really want one.

#7510 31 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

It’s kinda funny how this awesome pin is bringing $4600-4700 for a nice/loaded one, which is prob justified these days. Fantastic pin. I sold mine last fall for $4,150, with color DMD and Aurich package, and got price-policed. I felt so badly about it I let it go for $1800.

Ah, yes.. the price police is all over the hobby and on more sites than just Pinside. Typically, the Price Police pulls you over, then gives you detailed example of how your price point is off compared to other sites. Then the Price Police shames you because you're trying to recoup part of the costs for all the desirable mods you may have installed.

Of course, the Price Police will be the first one to tell you that you're pinball is not modded enough. Or that this little thing here affects the value of the game. Finally, the Price Police gangs up on your post, because, you know, they have friends that sold their games for way less than yours.

And just like in real life, the Price Police is above it all, because they will typically sell THEIR games at premium prices..

Now, kindly sell me your Tron for 4k please! Lol
However can't understand someone letting Shadow go!!

#7511 30 days ago

Does anyone know where I could find this decal to cover the sanctum area?

55D06A98-836B-4DAC-B336-181D5A81888A (resized).jpeg
#7513 30 days ago

By tonight I should be caught up on the Shadow ramp MRS orders! monkfe you are the last in line....

So if anyone is interested still in a Shadow MRS - please send me a PM!

And thanks everyone for your orders...we didn't think there would be such a demand!

Matt & Dan

M&M Creations...

pasted_image (resized).png
#7514 30 days ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Does anyone know where I could find this decal to cover the sanctum area?
[quoted image]

They are on eBay right now.

#7515 30 days ago
Quoted from Daditude:

They are on eBay right now.

I couldn't find them on Ebay.

#7517 29 days ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Does anyone know where I could find this decal to cover the sanctum area?
[quoted image]

Dont do it! The dot is always off center from the insert arrow. So distracting to me...

#7518 29 days ago
Quoted from Saltimbanco:

Ah, yes.. the price police is all over the hobby and on more sites than just Pinside. Typically, the Price Police pulls you over, then gives you detailed example of how your price point is off compared to other sites. Then the Price Police shames you because you're trying to recoup part of the costs for all the desirable mods you may have installed.
Of course, the Price Police will be the first one to tell you that you're pinball is not modded enough. Or that this little thing here affects the value of the game. Finally, the Price Police gangs up on your post, because, you know, they have friends that sold their games for way less than yours.
And just like in real life, the Price Police is above it all, because they will typically sell THEIR games at premium prices..
Now, kindly sell me your Tron for 4k please! Lol
However can't understand someone letting Shadow go!!

Yeah, I hear ya. I can understand how some collectors who have been around since the 90s are annoyed with pinflation. I have no doubt The Shadow was a $2500 pin a few years ago. But these great games are limited in number, and the nice ones are always harder and harder to find. TSPP was a $3500 pin about 5-6 years ago when I was first looking at getting a machine. Now some joker just listed one for $7k today. I realized my Shadow price was probably ok when it sold fairly quickly. And you are right, I was crazy to let it go in the first place...so I bought it back this summer! I will keep your offer of $4k for Tron in mind. Depending on which pin you include with the cash, we may have a deal.

#7519 29 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Yeah, I hear ya. I can understand how some collectors who have been around since the 90s are annoyed with pinflation. I have no doubt The Shadow was a $2500 pin a few years ago. But these great games are limited in number, and the nice ones are always harder and harder to find. TSPP was a $3500 pin about 5-6 years ago when I was first looking at getting a machine. Now some joker just listed one for $7k today. I realized my Shadow price was probably ok when it sold fairly quickly. And you are right, I was crazy to let it go in the first place...so I bought it back this summer! I will keep your offer of $4k for Tron in mind. Depending on which pin you include with the cash, we may have a deal.

I remember some $1800 shadows

#7520 29 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

I remember some $1800 shadows

I remember paying $1650 for mine, in excellent condition, a good while ago...still have it - won't be leaving.

#7521 29 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

I remember paying $1650 for mine, in excellent condition, a good while ago...still have it - won't be leaving.

I bought my first one for $2000 and my latest one for $4000 with cleared coated playfield.

#7522 29 days ago

Excellent examples! Makes sense people remember pins for much, much less. Prices have really gone bonkers in the past couple years it seems. Even since 2017 when I really got involved heavily, it seems there are more collectors jumping on pins. But the market is also very busy with many new listings every day, which is pretty cool! I am installing my new MRS switch to my Shadow tomorrow. It should really improve that switch where the left ramp wireform crosses over the playfield to the right. Thanks, Matt!

#7523 28 days ago

Found mine in August 2019 for under $3k. But....it was in a detached unheated garage and I remember we could not get the menu to cycle through to get it on free play or see the test report. (Broken enter switch). Had a dollar bill acceptor still in it and we had to load quarters in it to get a game going. Had crazy gen 1 cheap blue and purple LED’s everywhere. It still even today smells like cigarette stank whenever I lift the playfield. Went all in on color DMD, new Aurich trans light, new legs, Comets, new plastics, titans...new caps on the boards, flipper rebuilds etc. but that’s part of the fun in this hobby.

Up next is a full cabinet restore (needs a lot of help) and that awesome battlefield cover floating around out there, chrome ramp swap out with gun and new speakers. Didn’t know much about the game when I got it but it is so enjoyable now and I always find myself and others playing it all the time. Decided this is a keeper pin as well thus the $ invested in it so far...

#7524 28 days ago

Before I start poking around, I'll see if someone can offer insight: ever since I accidentally dropped the Battlefield drop target with the machine open, it won't automatically rise during play. I put it back in the up position, but after a hit during play it will stay down. Any ideas? It definitely cheapened my 2 billion score last night. Haha.

#7525 28 days ago
Quoted from aFineMoose:

Before I start poking around, I'll see if someone can offer insight: ever since I accidentally dropped the Battlefield drop target with the machine open, it won't automatically rise during play. I put it back in the up position, but after a hit during play it will stay down. Any ideas? It definitely cheapened my 2 billion score last night. Haha.

If I am understanding you correctly, there is a switch arm that the drop target rest on in the down position. Check that, I had one break off and had another I just needed to bend the arm back into place.

#7526 28 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

If I am understanding you correctly, there is a switch arm that the drop target rest on in the down position. Check that, I had one break off and had another I just needed to bend the arm back into place.

Thanks. I'll try that out.

#7527 28 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

By tonight I should be caught up on the Shadow ramp MRS orders! monkfe you are the last in line....
So if anyone is interested still in a Shadow MRS - please send me a PM!

[quoted image]

I installed my MRS last night. It's such a great upgrade - I could never get that stupid switch to work well even with the extender. (I also have MRSs on my Diner coffee cup and CFTBL bowl - it's amazing what a difference in gameplay you can get from such a simple upgrade.)

#7528 28 days ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

I installed my MRS last night. It's such a great upgrade - I could never get that stupid switch to work well even with the extender. (I also have MRSs on my Diner coffee cup and CFTBL bowl - it's amazing what a difference in gameplay you can get from such a simple upgrade.)

Such good news!!! Awesome....

Matt & Dan

#7529 28 days ago
Quoted from aFineMoose:

Before I start poking around, I'll see if someone can offer insight: ever since I accidentally dropped the Battlefield drop target with the machine open, it won't automatically rise during play. I put it back in the up position, but after a hit during play it will stay down. Any ideas? It definitely cheapened my 2 billion score last night. Haha.

This is a common issue with the single drop target (same as used in T2, STTNG and IJ) and I have all of the them so quite familiar with them LOL

The black arrow (#1) points to the plastic drop target, on the back of that target is a tab that pushes the switch actuator arm down (you can see this is the diagram on the right). There should be an actuator guide (blue arrow #24) which sits on the outer side of the switch, which stops the actuator arm from being deflected sideways by the falling drop target. Sometimes the actuator arm can get out of position (eg above the drop target tab or below the coil plunger arm that pushes the drop target up)

Plastic Guide1 (resized).jpg

Here's a picture showing where the actuator arm should be (ie between the black tab of the drop target and the metal coil plunger arm). Note this drop target doesn't have the clear plastic actuator guide installed over the switch. (Ignore the light blue arrows, as I just reused an pic that I already had)

Drop target assembly (resized).jpg

#7530 28 days ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

I installed my MRS last night. It's such a great upgrade - I could never get that stupid switch to work well even with the extender. (I also have MRSs on my Diner coffee cup and CFTBL bowl - it's amazing what a difference in gameplay you can get from such a simple upgrade.)

The difference is big!

#7531 28 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

This is a common issue with the single drop target (same as used in T2, STTNG and IJ) and I have all of the them so quite familiar with them LOL
The black arrow (#1) points to the plastic drop target, on the back of that target is a tab that pushes the switch actuator arm down (you can see this is the diagram on the right). There should be an actuator guide (blue arrow #24) which sits on the outer side of the switch, which stops the actuator arm from being deflected sideways by the falling drop target. Sometimes the actuator arm can get out of position (eg above the drop target tab or below the coil plunger arm that pushes the drop target up)
[quoted image]
Here's a picture showing where the actuator arm should be (ie between the black tab of the drop target and the metal coil plunger arm). Note this drop target doesn't have the clear plastic actuator guide installed over the switch. (Ignore the light blue arrows, as I just reused an pic that I already had)
[quoted image]

I had problems with the armature (No. 8 in the pic). It's a two-piece component and came apart causing it to malfunction. I had to take it apart, and stake the fixed metal center into the outer shaft to make it work again. The material they used was a certain type of steel with high iron content, that can't become magnetized, over a regular section of steel that can become magnetized.

#7532 28 days ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

The difference is big!

Wish some one would post a before and after video....

#7533 27 days ago

Thanks Manny, my machine is missing the actuator guide. The manual has the part list, but no diagram.

#7534 27 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

That's just pics from testing...the leads are long enough to run to the right and underneath the playfield to the left again for connection....

This is great. Looking forward to installing. I think missing out on a successful “light extra ball” skill shot due to the ball going too fast is almost as disappointing as getting the ball stuck.

#7535 27 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Wish some one would post a before and after video....

Don't really understand what this does exactly? I guess my games works fine so won't notice this issue.

#7536 27 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Don't really understand what this does exactly? I guess my games works fine so won't notice this issue.

My game, and a lot of peoples apparently, will not register the right diverter shot on the left ramp. So this sensor replaces the switch and makes it more reliable...according to some dudes on here

Id like to see video of:
Switch not registering

Switch registering intermittently with the bracket fix

The switch working intermittently with the longer cherry switch

The switch working every time with this fix.

Would take all of 20 mins to edit together. I think it would have a big impact. People dont get it. I do, but I want you to show me instead of tell me.

#7537 27 days ago

Question for you guys.

When you rebuilt yout diverter mechs, did you do the coil stops? Do I just treat it like a flipper rebuild and do the sleeves, stops, springs? Anything else I should do? Going to order parts.

Stops are $12 each!?!! Wow...ok. So if they arent mushroomed I leave them alone....yeesh

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18957

#7538 27 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Don't really understand what this does exactly? I guess my games works fine so won't notice this issue.

If you are referring to the MRS switch replacing the micro-switch on the left ramp, where it turns right and comes back across the playfield on the wireform, that switch requires a long arm to make contact with the ball without impeding the ball in the process. Some people (including me) have had issues getting that switch to register hits, without slowing or stopping the ball. The MRS is a magnetic switch, and the ball doesn’t actually make contact with it. So you remove the micro-switch and arm completely and install the MRS, which is positioned near the wireform so the ball passes close to it, and it registers the shot without slowing the ball. I’ve installed them on another game and they work great. But micro-switches work well in most situations too, it’s just a very nice alternative in certain spots.

If you were asking about something else, just ignore my ramblings.

I haven’t installed my MRS on The Shadow yet. I’m happy to make vids before and after.

#7539 26 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I
I haven’t installed my MRS on The Shadow yet. I’m happy to make vids before and after.

Mark - if you could/would - that would be super cool!

Matt

#7540 26 days ago

I was able to get the stock factory shot holding my phone. This is before the sensor install. It did register on this round. I know when it’s not so fast it does not register 100%. I’m not a YouTube guys so sorry if the video is not so good....

#7541 26 days ago

Good vid showing a successful shot with the left ramp to the right inlane. On my Shadow, the micro-switch arm would actually stop the ball, maybe 10-15% of the time, if the shot wasn’t fast/clean. A friend of mine made a longer arm, which didn’t impede the ball as much, and it does register hits almost 100%. But it’s pretty long and wonky looking. The MRS will be cleaner and won’t touch the ball at all. Here’s a still shot of mine currently. I can post a vid once I swap out the MRS.

BCDB966A-501A-42D3-B9CA-D4165EE7508A (resized).jpeg
#7542 26 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Dont do it! The dot is always off center from the insert arrow. So distracting to me...

I agree the dot is distracting if it’s centered underneath “To The Sanctum.” I found better results if positioned instead more or less directly above the insert, it’s not too distracting and looks correct. To me, anyway. Plus, the ball stops directly on the spot when held by the magnet, on mine.

0162E645-EDF1-4CB1-9E1B-7430CB818FF6 (resized).jpeg

#7543 26 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

My game, and a lot of peoples apparently, will not register the right diverter shot on the left ramp. So this sensor replaces the switch and makes it more reliable...according to some dudes on here
Id like to see video of:
Switch not registering
Switch registering intermittently with the bracket fix
The switch working intermittently with the longer cherry switch
The switch working every time with this fix.
Would take all of 20 mins to edit together. I think it would have a big impact. People dont get it. I do, but I want you to show me instead of tell me.

rotordave posted some clips a year ago on this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/117#post-5043781

The 2nd video shows how some fast shots can actually go over the top of the switch and fail to trigger the switch, even with a longer actuator arm. His solution was to create a plastic extender to move the switch further down the wireform.

My Shadow the switch would regularly stop the ball from going down the wireform, I replaced it with a long straight actuator arm and fine tuned the angle of the switch which has improved it to 90%. So I've have bought the extender and getting the MRS to try these

#7544 25 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Question for you guys.
When you rebuilt yout diverter mechs, did you do the coil stops? Do I just treat it like a flipper rebuild and do the sleeves, stops, springs? Anything else I should do? Going to order parts.
Stops are $12 each!?!! Wow...ok. So if they arent mushroomed I leave them alone....yeesh
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18957

I never replace coil stops unless they are way shroomed. I trust 25 year old hardware > new stuff. The other parts of the rebuild are upgrades and worth it.

#7545 24 days ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

I never replace coil stops unless they are way shroomed. I trust 25 year old hardware > new stuff. The other parts of the rebuild are upgrades and worth it.

Sweet, thanks. Got my mechs out and ready to be swapped.

7F3BFC44-4C6C-4016-B26B-DC5685ADB031 (resized).jpeg
#7546 23 days ago

Can anyone explain why there is this sharp protruding hook on the wireform? I bought my game with a scratched inside right cab, and this looks to be the issue. I adjusted it a bit, but why would they put this here? Am I missing a part?

E44742DA-95DC-4A6F-9AA3-88F082B558E2 (resized).jpeg
#7547 23 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Can anyone explain why there is this sharp protruding hook on the wireform? I bought my game with a scratched inside right cab, and this looks to be the issue. I adjusted it a bit, but why would they put this here? Am I missing a part?[quoted image]

Looks to me like your wire ramps are assembled wrong. That hole in the protruding hook should mate up with the connecting ramp. The fact that it is assembled wrong is causing your problem. Fix it and your issue should go away.

#7548 23 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Looks to me like your wire ramps are assembled wrong. That hole in the protruding hook should mate up with the connecting ramp. The fact that it is assembled wrong is causing your problem. Fix it and your issue should go away.

Thanks! I think this is how it goes. Makes so much sense now that I see it, lol.

623BCF36-D384-4E46-961E-6D0F8D5518BF (resized).jpeg
#7549 23 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Thanks! I think this is how it goes. Makes so much sense now that I see it, lol.
[quoted image]

Now I want to go check!!! But don't we love this forum, right? you get answers, and people care! Man I love this hobby and, mostly, Shadow!

#7550 23 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Thanks! I think this is how it goes. Makes so much sense now that I see it, lol.
[quoted image]

I checked mine and that's how my wireforms join together - nicely spotted

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