Wait. What????..

A good cleaning and buffing...

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I went the other way.

Adding just a subwoofer on my Shadow made a huge difference. No need changing the speakers.

Cranking the volume up is like theaters showing Earthquake in Sensurround back in "74. Really rumbles, enhancing the experience.

What’s the latest U.S rom version available ? Mine says LA-4 .

IPDB says latest for North America is LA-6

Thanks . I don’t burn my own so I’d like to find a source . Only one I’ve found so far is LX-6 .

Planetary has LX-6 as the latest with the comment that this “X” (export) version supersedes all “A” versions. So this LX-6 looks like the one to get. Not near my game to double check.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/roms/shadow.html

I just had Shadow open to check on the batteries and noticed this cable just hanging there. It's been a while since I hooked everything up and the colordmd was already installed when I bought it. What never it is it's been unhooked for about a year by my guess. I havent noticed any issues with my game. Is it something unnecessary because I have the colordmd? I know I eliminated some hookups when installing a colordmd in my Metallica. If not, wtf is it? Lol. It matches up with the connector to the right in the picture but I'm not about to just hook it up for no good reason without knowing what it is. I'm not very familiar with the workings going on inside the head. Thanks.

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My guess was power etc to original dmd?

Old power connection for old display. Not needed.

Thank you. This was my guess but I needed someone to make me feel more at ease.

I'm taking my Black Knight in for board work this week. If Shadow was down I'd only have one game to play while stuck at home

I've never changed roms before. I'm running LA4 currently. I know someone who can burn me an updated rom but social distancing means I'm on my own from there. Is U6 the correct and only rom that needs to be swapped?

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Yes that's correct. Just make sure you get the right orientation - see the divot on the existing chip (on the right side) just make sure you put the new chip in to match.

Cheers

I don't see any compelling reason to switch from LA4 to LX6. Is there any reason I should be aware of?

This is what it says about the ROM version changes in LX6:

Changes from revision L-5:

Fixed adjustment A.1 07 Replay Start. It now correctly adjusts
in the range 10 million to 900 million.

Version LX-5
Date: May 1, 1995
U6: Checksum: A205 (X - Export)

The export version supersedes all A ROMs.

Changes from revision L-4:

Fixed the jackpot lights being stuck on from collecting
a Khan super jackpot during the grace period.

Fixed the 5x6 font used in the skill shot screen. The number
"7" showed up as a "6".

Fixed a glitch in the enter initials screen.

Fixed buy-in cancel to require both flippers to be hit.

Farley mode can now score more than 99 million.

Playing the same mode twice in one ball now allows the scores
to be added together.

Tilting now cancels multiball autofire.

Seems like its worth the jump from 4 to 6 but I wouldnt bother if you already have 5 installed

Hi there,
As I will join the club soon, I wanted to know what makes the sanctum wear. Mine is very slightly damaged and if I fixed it to get it perfect how to protect it « forever « ? Mylar, clearcoated playfield, playfield proctector? Anyone experience a playfield protector? Thoughts? Thanks

It's the magnet mechanism that grabs the ball and swings it into the ball lock. The ball slowly but surely wears away at the paint and after 1000s of iterations will wear the PF to wood.

There are decals sold here on Pinside to place where the ball stops and takes the brunt of the punishment. My restored PF came clear coated and then a small layer of mylar placed on top so that ball has a lot of work ahead of it before it damages the PF again.

PF protectors are a subject people are very divided on. Some love them; others hate them. I have one on Addams and have experienced VERY minimal behavior changes with the ball and game. Magnets still interact with the ball just fine.

Yeah, the magnet holds the ball there for a second, releases, then re-activates and flings the ball. Causes wear on that spot.

Mylar, I think.
I have playfield protectors on a couple games and like them.
I would be concerned that a protector might mess up the magnet function. I could be wrong, if anyone has actual experience.

I did double mylar, double mylar (a larger rectangle mylar, plus a smaller circle of mylar that covers the magnet area. This way if you need to replace a layer in the future, you won’t pull up the paint.

I put a layer of playfield mylar on my machine. I don't think it will save the playfield, but looks good.

I am considering grafting a thin sheet of stainless steel in the sanctum, by milling out a pocket for it. I would bet that will never wear out once you install it. A "cliffy" so to speak for the sanctum.

So the best protection to the lower would be:
Playfield clearcoated > playfield protector > Mylar > overlay ?

This is also the more expensive to the cheapest..and the more work to the less!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/aurich-s-shadow-translite-final-run-last-call

Thanks Rondogg.

I think anyone is this club probably already knows my package, but here's a pic in case there are new folk around. I know I haven't posted in a while, sure there are newer members who don't even know who I am.

Hope all is well with the club for one of my all time favorite games. I've sold a lot of my pins over the last couple years, not sure what my plan is with the rest of my collection, but Shadow would be the one to stay if I ever got to "just keep one" status.

package.jpg

Aurich good to see you back in this thread. I hope you and your family are doing well.

We're chilling in SoCal, just doing the hermit compound thing. Honestly it suits us, so can't really complain too much. My other passion is fighting games, and while online play isn't as good as offline it's at least an option.

I know people keep talking about online pinball, but man, my local friend has a Shadow too, and our games are like night and day to play. It would be one wonky ass attempt to compete to have them networked, that's for sure.

He likes his game steep, and the flippers coiled down, sometimes when you hit the top of a ramp you have to tap the diverter over to nudge the ball forward or it will roll backwards.

Aurich, have you ever thought to design a plastic or decal for the back panel of the pf? I think a stuff is already existing but just wanna know if you are planning to do something or not.
Thanks

I have one of the aftermarket brick wall ones on mine, came that way when I bought it, I didn't install it. To be honest I don't even remember what's normally there, is it just blank? I know there's a city one someone made too.

Unless I had some interesting idea that was better than what's already been done before I don't think I'd do it. But I guess I've never given it a whole lot of thought. I'll try and remember to look at it more next time I play.

Effectively. No interest in brick wall, city one is better imho.
I thought about something in relation with your translite, it could be cool, especially if it is plastic that can be lit.

I’ll be doing a reprint of my cityscape decal in a month or two when the lockdowns subside. PM me if interested.

I love the brick wall! I have an old version on mine but would love to upgrade it.

i have a couple of issues with my Shadow,
first with the upper playfield is the kicker meant to be centered? if so how can I center it.
please see photo
84862DA1-36AA-49FF-9750-29D94DBDB37E (resized).jpeg

I am also having issues with the upper right flipper, the flipper works but just has no drive, I removed the board that drives the flippers out of the back box and replaced it with another board which is the same out of my The Getaway, it worked with plenty of drive to shoot the ball around the Shadow loop but then after playing a couple of games it lost its drive also, so im guessing the board is not the issue, the other two flippers work fine.
does anyone know what could be causing this issue, all the boards in the backbox have been checked over and everything seems to be fine.
cheers

Hey Manto - does the kicker move fully to the left and right correctly? The kicker will re-center once the game detects that the ball has come off the upper playfield - does yours? From your picture it does look a bit more to the right than I'd expect, however other than when the kicker is fully at either side (opto under the mini-PF detects this) I'm not sure that the game knows exactly where the kicker is positioned.

Having an issue with my Shadow. The upper playfield paddle that slides back and forth to hit the ball moves slow when pushing the left flipper compare to pushing the right flipper. Any thoughts?

You can try swapping the flipper opto boards. While they're out, clean the optos.

How does it move when the game is booted? Slow to the left?

What is normal behavior for this game while booting ? Mine sounds similar to a ball search .Shooter lane , kick out holes and mini playfield paddle slides back and fourth and then normal . No credit dot and the game plays like normal . Curious because none of my other games do that .

I had this exact problem and mine was broken wire on the opto. Re soldered and it fixed it.

Yes there is a start up check that'll switch the diverters and move the kicker left & right on the battlefield (so will sound similar to a ball search), but don't think it does the shooter lane and kick out holes - double check what is being triggered. If it is doing the latter then it might think there is a missing ball, so I'd check the trough switches (optos and cold solder joints)

I fixed my wear, repainted, placed a water decal, then 3 coats of clear. I have a playfield protector over this. You could use the Mylar decal instead. There is a nice green target decal often listed for sale on pinside. I have no problems with how the protector plays. It’s very smooth. No signs of back spin or other issues that people sometimes experience with protectors.
As long as you fill the wear with correct filler, the repair should last a long time regardless whether you use Mylar or protector.

I checked the optos in the trough and they all seems to work . I have no issues and thought this was normal . Now I’m second guessing . Does this look normal ? All ball in the trough and coin door open

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After a closer inspection . While booting the game pulses the shooter lane twice . Pulses diverters, drops and raises the wall and drop target . Also moves the mini playfield left and right back to center . Is this normal behavior ?

Arh yes the drop targets are triggered in the startup sequence as well - I haven't noticed the shooter lane firing however that is quite possible and I'm not able to check on my game atm. That said I'd say your machine is behaving normally - it does these checks on boot up in case there are faults it's not aware of and will disable game features such that the game is still somewhat playable.

Okay thanks . Just wanted to make sure .

I’ve been wanting a shadow for about two years now and finally found a nice one . We’ve had it for a couple weeks now and it’s turned into one of our favorite machines . On the list for the speaker panel and translite .

Haha, man, that translite. First I noticed it uses my border, but then I saw the blimp too. So it goes, I used a comic book as the reference to draw my Shadow when I did it, I'm not mad about my own being "sampled and remixed" to continue the tradition. Just kinda funny.

It’s getting tossed as soon as I get yours .
Also have the original but I’m not liking it either .

The connectors where the board is plugging into.

Normal. Mine does all that as well as drop the single yellow target and back up.

Thanks . Yeah the yellow drop target also resets . My other games don’t do all of that checking so it was concerning me . Matter of fact I don’t remember if any wpc games that I’ve had in the past did that .