I slip a credit card in to get my desired gap.

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Could the owners who have brassed their ramps and phurba please post some pics? Thanks.

Never mind I figured out the topic images.
How are.you going about the ramp flaps? I see the first pics.in the thread have brassed ramps and rivets. What would be involved in the plating process? Cheers

Anyone know what material the ramps are made from? Thanks

Aluminum? They arent magnetic

Interesting... I’ll have to do some digging and playing with the setting I think my right rail is actually a bit off. It’s seems like it moves a bit so it may be loose. When I shop it out completely I’ll try and adjust it but enjoying playing it too much right now.

Stainless steel no?

Non magnetic is leading me to believe no

Not all stainless steel is magnetic. I'd suspect the ramps are stainless steel 304 (definitely not aluminum)

Got my city scape decal installed lastnight. Looks absolutely awesome. I am waiting on 6-7 purple flasher bulb caps to come in so I left the orange ones uninstalled as the wood only has so many tries before it gets stripped out.

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Dude, there was glass ALL OVER this game. It was under all the plastics, on the ramps, UNDER the mini PF (and I mean lodged in the wiring underneath the mini-PF - check out the photo below ), and some of it was grounded into a fine powder on the ramps and ball guide walls. I had to stirp a good amount of the game, run my 30 gallon air compressor and blow the entire game with compressed air, then vacuum it, then shake the game and find more hiding under plastics, shop vac, rinse and repeat. Finally got to the point I used Windex on a rag and gently pressed on the PF and the ramps to get the literal powered dust-sized particles of glass off both surfaces. Swapped all the balls out to be safe. Going to check the ball trough to be 100% safe, and then I think we will be good.

I have a theory on what happened, but I am not going to speculate publicly as that's all it is - speculation.

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stick a magnet on your stainless steel fridge, see how long it holds.

Shh! My ugly white fridge might hear you talking about nicer fridges.

Black-nickel is more expensive than brass, but I think it looks very nice on this game.

Black chrome is incredible:
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Does anyone know this part and who sells it. It's from the upper playfield

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A-17790.1

I grabbed a spare from Mark C. and haven't used it (PM me if interested) https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/a-17790-1.html

Heres a clip of my grumpy mod in action. Hope to diffuse better soon. Havent found anything useful to do so around the house yet.

https://clips.twitch.tv/BombasticBrightDugongDogFace

Looks good to me. One thing I have done in the past is take a 600 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the soft shell covering the LED strip. Typically defuses it just enough without loosing the light.

Not a bad idea. Wish I would have done that before I stuck it to that plate, lol.

Ive been trying to find a material like this in low quantities but thats super hard to do so far...
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Those would be Photography Gels. Very cheap on Amazon and available in any color. You can mix and match or layer them for darker shades. Thin as paper and simple to cut. I also keep a variety pack of these to make insert masks in the playfield. 1 pack will last a lifetime lol. Find your shade, a dot of hot glue and stick done. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/Fotograf%C3%ADa-Speedlite-Balance-Universal-Olympus/dp/B00QN48X0Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_12

I work in live events and have access to every shade of lighting fixture gel. This is not what I want. I want to deflect light, not tint it. There are specialty deflecting/refracting plastics made for this type of application.

Sorry just a suggestion.

I got ya, sorry to seem abrasive.

Anyone on the fence about selling/leaving the club near MD/PA/VA send me a pm. Have a beautiful TZ and a HUO AMH to trade

Wow, that looks amazing!

the shadow I had previously to my current one I put ALL black nickel trim on it with a black nickel shooter gun. It was sick looking.

Anyone got a spare mini PF thumb screw they’d be willing to sell me, or know a source for them? I just recently swapped CPR PFs into my Shadow and having a regular philips head bolt in place of it is driving me crazy.

Not my pic, but I’m referring to the knurled headed bolt being held

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That min-PF thumb screw (02-5142) is like hen's teeth ... hard to find

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/playfield-parts/metal-posts/02-5142.html

Thank you so much for this.

I have been having the "faulty yellow target" problem all night. I installed a brand new switch and calibrated it, yet the drop target would never go back up after the ball left the Battlefield. No matter how many times I triggered it to go up and down in coil test mode, it would fail in the middle of a game. I would even leave the game in attract mode with no credit dot, and after some time, the credit dot would just randomly appear in attract mode. Was about to lose my mind.

I re-seated all the connections and that has made the drop target behave. I had no idea that thing was controlled by the Fliptronics board. Now I know which connector it is and know the source of my problem if it comes back. That happens again, I'll clean the male header pins and crimp a new Molex connector to that point.

THANK YOU for this post.

So what do think of the blue between the original playfield and CPR?

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My first thought was - why is one Playfield bigger than the other? Lol
But the blue on the original is heaps better looking. That just confirmed to me that I don’t want a CPR

They look great. Who does these?

You know what The Shadow needs? Someone to sell a Sanctum decal that matched the playfield. Maybe sell a 5 pack in different gradients. Hard to believe the only option (for purchase) is about 10 shades too light.

that is why I went with a restored original playfield.

I noticed it as soon as i put maylar down last night. not happy about it but still better then the old playfield

Chris Royalty hot rod arcade

wish i would have known

I agree, I never noticed till I saw his post. Why would a shade of blue difference on the PF matter on a game most people change out the original trans on?

Had the different shade of blue somehow been associated with an LE version back in the day, pinsiders would be scrambling to have that color.

I've had the game 10 years and I honestly don't know for sure which is the original from that picture. I'd actually have to go look at my game.

People have no problem sticking a big round ugly green sticker to cover their worn sanctum area. That, I can notice.

Hi there club! I was looking for some feedback on PinSound for Shadow. Has any one installed it, are you happy with the product? Has anyone installed the shaker motor, is it worth it?

I like the shaker motor, but have no experience with the pinsound

I have honestly thought about making these until I sold my game with the decal and found a game with barely any sanctum wear. I still might explore the idea. Baffles my mind how off the current ones that are available are.

I made my own that was really close years ago. It was one of the cool greys that was almost a perfect match. I had a ton of extras and tossed them in the trash a while back.

Is that Gold, Silver or Bronze or are they all like that?

EDIT: Not to dump on the CPR playfield (or your playfield), I have many of their products (2 backglass, plastics...) but even the yellow and orange look lighter.

Never even noticed until you brought it to my attention. Guess that means it is nothing to lose sleep over. Game is still badass.

I have three Pinsound cards in my games, Tommy, Getaway and Dr. Who. I have never thought about installing a Pinsound card in my Shadow. I think the biggest problem is limited orchestrations to choose from. There appear to only be three in the Pinsound Community. I be interested to hear if others find these three orchestrations to be a big improvement over the original. Thanks.

http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/category/37-the-shadow/

Shadow IMHO doesn't need a PinSound re-orchestration. The music is solid as is with plenty of callouts from the movies. It doesn't have that "MIDI sound" like TAF - to me that music (Shadow's) is nearing a full on orchestra.

Because of the high quality dcs mix, upgrading the speakers alone gave me a nice boost in fidelity, and plenty of bass. I’m a huge pinsound fan but it’s not necessary for the shadow.

I’d like to purchase the aurich speaker panel and translite . I sent him a message but haven’t heard back . If anyone has the set available PLEASE let me know .