(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 19 minutes ago by gunstarhero
  • Topic is favorited by 216 Pinsiders

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#7051 9 months ago
Quoted from PappyBoyington:

I was thinking about getting my habitrails re-plated, but I figured I would try Brasso first. I have used it on a Gottlieb Stargate many years ago and it stripped off all the gold and turned it silver. But this is a Bally and I thought I would see if the gold would hold up.
Turns out it did and it took off all the tarnished looking spots. I'm very happy with how it turned out. Don't slather it on, just put some on a micro fiber tool and rub lightly. You will see immediate results. Just be careful and try it on a small area first. Maybe all Shadows are not the same. But mine worked out great. No need to get them plated now.
You can see in this picture where I have started on the left side.
[quoted image]
This is completed. Looks fantastic!
[quoted image]
Sorry, I don't have better pictures but I didn't plan on sharing this.

WOW....that looks really good. I tried some on mine recently and had a hard time telling if it was shiny brass or shiny silver colored as if I was removing the brass plating with the brasso. So I stopped and just cleaned with Simple Green. I may need to try again after seeing these....looks really good.

#7052 9 months ago
Quoted from PinHigh1:

WOW....that looks really good. I tried some on mine recently and had a hard time telling if it was shiny brass or shiny silver colored as if I was removing the brass plating with the brasso. So I stopped and just cleaned with Simple Green. I may need to try again after seeing these....looks really good.

Thanks. My guess is all Shadows brass plating is the same but always test to make sure. Just a little on the rag goes a long way. Good luck

#7053 9 months ago

Looking for a little help...

First machine and bought just late last week. After having some DMD issues, I'm now getting a Check Fuse F115 and F116, J112 and Opto 12v Supply. Replaced the fuses for F115 and F116. J112 snug and nothing loose. Replaced the batteries - no corrosion. What am I missing? Where should I be looking?

Much thanks in advance!

20200420_133251.jpg
#7054 9 months ago
Quoted from HooperTriplett:

Looking for a little help...
First machine and bought just late last week. After having some DMD issues, I'm now getting a Check Fuse F115 and F116, J112 and Opto 12v Supply. Replaced the fuses for F115 and F116. J112 snug and nothing loose. Replaced the batteries - no corrosion. What am I missing? Where should I be looking?
Much thanks in advance![quoted image]

Are the fuse-holders loose? Maybe the solder cracked. Or maybe a connector on the opto got un-plugged somehow.

#7055 9 months ago
Quoted from HooperTriplett:

Looking for a little help...
First machine and bought just late last week. After having some DMD issues, I'm now getting a Check Fuse F115 and F116, J112 and Opto 12v Supply. Replaced the fuses for F115 and F116. J112 snug and nothing loose. Replaced the batteries - no corrosion. What am I missing? Where should I be looking?
Much thanks in advance![quoted image]

Start here: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_Fuses_F115_and_F116_Message

#7056 9 months ago

I just finished installing my side blades from Tilt. I'm pretty pleased with them. I didn't take the playfield out. I installed them using the wet method with dish soap and water in a spray bottle. It takes two people, one to hold the playfield up and the other to install the stickers. There is very little space between the playfield and the side of the cabinet. I had to push the playfield all the way back and then lift it up and for some reason there was just enough gap to work with.

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#7057 9 months ago
Quoted from PappyBoyington:

I just finished installing my side blades from Tilt. I'm pretty pleased with them. I didn't take the playfield out. I installed them using the wet method with dish soap and water in a spray bottle. It takes two people, one to hold the playfield up and the other to install the stickers. There is very little space between the playfield and the side of the cabinet. I had to push the playfield all the way back and then lift it up and for some reason there was just enough gap to work with.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

fix your left sling rubber while you're at it. lol! beautiful machine.

#7058 9 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

fix your left sling rubber while you're at it. lol

By putting the leaf switches on the right side or by cutting it and all the other white one off and replacing them with purple, blue or clear titans???? Wink wink

#7059 9 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Hers some of Congo.[quoted image][quoted image]

I didn't hate yellow targets till I seen this!

#7060 9 months ago
Quoted from HooperTriplett:

Looking for a little help...
First machine and bought just late last week. After having some DMD issues, I'm now getting a Check Fuse F115 and F116, J112 and Opto 12v Supply. Replaced the fuses for F115 and F116. J112 snug and nothing loose. Replaced the batteries - no corrosion. What am I missing? Where should I be looking?
Much thanks in advance![quoted image]

I had this message once on a different WPC machine (World Cup Soccer) but the fuse was actually blowing after a minute or two of the motor starting and turning the ball. It was caused by a motor under the playfield being gummed up.

The Shadow has the same motor which controls the mini playfield/battlefield kicker moving side to side. May want to visually inspect to see if it looks dirty and take notice of its action. If the fuse glows and/or blows after the motor kicks on during mini playfield/battlefield play then it could be your issue.

#7061 9 months ago
Quoted from PinHigh1:

I had this message once on a different WPC machine (World Cup Soccer) but the fuse was actually blowing after a minute or two of the motor starting and turning the ball. It was caused by a motor under the playfield being gummed up.
The Shadow has the same motor which controls the mini playfield/battlefield kicker moving side to side. May want to visually inspect to see if it looks dirty and take notice of its action. If the fuse glows and/or blows after the motor kicks on during mini playfield/battlefield play then it could be your issue.

Thanks for the tip. This doesn't appear to be something rare which I guess is good.

The upper play field resets 4 or 5 times during start-up - maybe there?

#7062 9 months ago

Excellent - thanks! That's some of clearest guidance so far..

#7063 9 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

fix your left sling rubber while you're at it. lol! beautiful machine.

Thanks, Nice catch. I haven't played a game on it yet.

#7064 9 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

By putting the leaf switches on the right side or by cutting it and all the other white one off and replacing them with purple, blue or clear titans???? Wink wink

Maybe, but I have shit loads of white that I need to use up first.

#7065 9 months ago
Quoted from PappyBoyington:

Maybe, but I have shit loads of white that I need to use up first.

You only live once. Give them away...if you can. Get clears on there.

#7066 8 months ago

Well it took some time but I'm now in the Shadow club! 10 days before my birthday so I'll consider this one a present to my self Got really lucky with this one. I was searching for The Shadow for a few months casually and this one popped up locally literally 10 mins from my house. The guy had a nice large collection in his home. This one has been in the guys home for 18 years and it's a really nice players example. He did Comet led's on it recently and mini shopped it out. I will say this, was the cheapest one I found compared to all the others that were within a few hour drive from me in the best condition. He missed an led here and there so at least I have something to do

ColorDMD will be added, pinblades, NVram, and probably alternative back glass. I need to adjust the drop targets as they are to low and the ball will get suck there on slow play. The sanctum had little wear but it was repaired and decal applied. I put some time on it today and it plays really fast and well. Everything seems to work no credit dots. He gave me some extra plastics and items for it. Matching serial numbers on all the boards not that it means much. We did gloves and face masks as well. Keeping it safe for all.

One other neat thing with this one, 20 years ago I bought a few dozen locks from a guy who was selling them somewhere on a forum. The double sided hawk keys type. Well I bought all 1001 key locks so one key works all my pins and arcade games. Over time I have been running low on them and only have a handful left. Well don't you know it, I looked at the key for the locks and it's a 1001! What are the odds. I guess it was meant to be!

The shooter gun handle could use a good freshening up. Who are you guys using to restore the coating on the gun? Can you buy the grips as well for it?

Also if anyone has a spare complete manual set let me know. I always like all the manuals to my pins.

Any other things I need to check/repair/replace on this game? Thanks and enjoy some pics....

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#7067 8 months ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Well it took some time but I'm now in the Shadow club! 10 days before my birthday so I'll consider this one a present to my self Got really lucky with this one. I was searching for The Shadow for a few months casually and this one popped up locally literally 10 mins from my house. The guy had a nice large collection in his home. This one has been in the guys home for 18 years and it's a really nice players example. He did Comet led's on it recently and mini shopped it out. I will say this, was the cheapest one I found compared to all the others that were within a few hour drive from me in the best condition. He missed an led here and there so at least I have something to do
ColorDMD will be added, pinblades, NVram, and probably alternative back glass. I need to adjust the drop targets as they are to low and the ball will get suck there on slow play. The sanctum had little wear but it was repaired and decal applied. I put some time on it today and it plays really fast and well. Everything seems to work no credit dots. He gave me some extra plastics and items for it. Matching serial numbers on all the boards not that it means much. We did gloves and face masks as well. Keeping it safe for all.
One other neat thing with this one, 20 years ago I bought a few dozen locks from a guy who was selling them somewhere on a forum. The double sided hawk keys type. Well I bought all 1001 key locks so one key works all my pins and arcade games. Over time I have been running low on them and only have a handful left. Well don't you know it, I looked at the key for the locks and it's a 1001! What are the odds. I guess it was meant to be!
The shooter gun handle could use a good freshening up. Who are you guys using to restore the coating on the gun? Can you buy the grips as well for it?
Also if anyone has a spare complete manual set let me know. I always like all the manuals to my pins.
Any other things I need to check/repair/replace on this game? Thanks and enjoy some pics....[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Make sure the left ramp switch registers properly. There are mods you can buy, but it's very easy to fix yourself. Just search the forum.

Be sure the left ramp stand ups are angled downward or its airball city. I have rubber jammed between the supports and pf so I never have to worry about it.

Game tips:

Try to get to laugh mode for a good laugh. Pull the gun trigger when the ball enters the battlefield saucer, the mode saucer and the Khan mb saucer then start a mode. Order isn't important.

You can use the trigger one time in video mode to clear the perpas. If you make it about half way before you blast them, you can often squeak out an extra ball by quickly collecting a bunch of pop up awards.

If Mongol is lit and you drain or can't nail it quickly, pull the trigger for three mill.

If you'd like to save some money while owning the machine, up the tilt sensitivity, raise the back legs to their max, and start a swear jar.

#7068 8 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Make sure the left ramp switch registers properly. There are mods you can buy, but it's very easy to fix yourself. Just search the forum.
Be sure the left ramp stand ups are angled downward or its airball city. I have rubber jammed between the supports and pf so I never have to worry about it.
Game tips:
Try to get to laugh mode for a good laugh. Pull the gun trigger when the ball enters the battlefield saucer, the mode saucer and the Khan mb saucer then start a mode. Order isn't important.
You can use the trigger one time in video mode to clear the perpas. If you make it about half way before you blast them, you can often squeak out an extra ball by quickly collecting a bunch of pop up awards.
If Mongol is lit and you drain or can't nail it quickly, pull the trigger for three mill.
If you'd like to save some money while owning the machine, up the tilt sensitivity, raise the back legs to their max, and start a swear jar.

Awesome thanks for the tips! Funny part is the legs were maxed out when I got it and the tilt is very sensitive!

#7069 8 months ago

First mod done and most important! Battery removal! I went with Frank's dual button board this time around give it a shot. He makes some quality products. This is by far the most quick and easy way to rid yourself of those nasty AA's. Buddy of mine owns a CFTBL and he put fresh AA's in his Creech in December. He was in the backbox checking for something the other day and sure enough one of them started leaking already! I do use NVRam as well when I feel like soldering a chip on one of these boards but I've also had 2 NVRam boards from weebly fail on me and I'm trouble shooting another.. Either way as long as we support those in the hobby making this type of stuff keeping our pins safe for years to come it's all good! I think the fact the last owner of my Shadow used wall mart batteries also made me to this mod first! Great little product for the money it's a no brainer! Get those AA's out! On a side note, someone else was soldering on the back of this remote battery board and killed a few of the pads. I had to just let it flow through a bit to make the connection.
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#7070 8 months ago

While I was on a roll.... Added the famous ColorDMD along with 3 led blue strip mounted under the apron.

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#7071 8 months ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

First mod done and most important! Battery removal! I went with Frank's dual button board this time around give it a shot. He makes some quality products. This is by far the most quick and easy way to rid yourself of those nasty AA's. Buddy of mine owns a CFTBL and he put fresh AA's in his Creech in December. He was in the backbox checking for something the other day and sure enough one of them started leaking already! I do use NVRam as well when I feel like soldering a chip on one of these boards but I've also had 2 NVRam boards from weebly fail on me and I'm trouble shooting another.. Either way as long as we support those in the hobby making this type of stuff keeping our pins safe for years to come it's all good! I think the fact the last owner of my Shadow used wall mart batteries also made me to this mod first! Great little product for the money it's a no brainer! Get those AA's out! On a side note, someone else was soldering on the back of this remote battery board and killed a few of the pads. I had to just let it flow through a bit to make the connection.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I took a look at his website but the only black edition listed are for System 7-11, so he must of sold out of his WPC black editions. Even the single button boards are a cool idea.

#7072 8 months ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

First mod done and most important! Battery removal! I went with Frank's dual button board this time around give it a shot. He makes some quality products. This is by far the most quick and easy way to rid yourself of those nasty AA's. Buddy of mine owns a CFTBL and he put fresh AA's in his Creech in December. He was in the backbox checking for something the other day and sure enough one of them started leaking already! I do use NVRam as well when I feel like soldering a chip on one of these boards but I've also had 2 NVRam boards from weebly fail on me and I'm trouble shooting another.. Either way as long as we support those in the hobby making this type of stuff keeping our pins safe for years to come it's all good! I think the fact the last owner of my Shadow used wall mart batteries also made me to this mod first! Great little product for the money it's a no brainer! Get those AA's out! On a side note, someone else was soldering on the back of this remote battery board and killed a few of the pads. I had to just let it flow through a bit to make the connection.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good, what is a Members Mark battery? I have always used name brand Lithium and never had an issue personally and they last years but this is a nice solution also.

#7073 8 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

what is a Members Mark battery?

Member's Mark is the store brand for Sam's Club/Walmart products.

#7074 8 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I took a look at his website but the only black edition listed are for System 7-11, so he must of sold out of his WPC black editions. Even the single button boards are a cool idea.

He lives near me so I bought it from him locally. I have used his single cell ones as well. Just as good.

#7075 8 months ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Member's Mark is the store brand for Sam's Club/Walmart products.

Yes! And when I saw that I knew I was in trouble!! lol

#7076 8 months ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

First mod done and most important! Battery removal! I went with Frank's dual button board this time around give it a shot. He makes some quality products. This is by far the most quick and easy way to rid yourself of those nasty AA's. Buddy of mine owns a CFTBL and he put fresh AA's in his Creech in December. He was in the backbox checking for something the other day and sure enough one of them started leaking already! I do use NVRam as well when I feel like soldering a chip on one of these boards but I've also had 2 NVRam boards from weebly fail on me and I'm trouble shooting another.. Either way as long as we support those in the hobby making this type of stuff keeping our pins safe for years to come it's all good! I think the fact the last owner of my Shadow used wall mart batteries also made me to this mod first! Great little product for the money it's a no brainer! Get those AA's out! On a side note, someone else was soldering on the back of this remote battery board and killed a few of the pads. I had to just let it flow through a bit to make the connection.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is there any soldering required to replace the battery pack? I have to do this on a few of my games. Thanks.

#7077 8 months ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Is there any soldering required to replace the battery pack? I have to do this on a few of my games. Thanks.

You have to de-solder the old battery pack (not too hard) it has 6 contact points. Then you'll need to solder in this battery board (real easy) the battery board has 4 points. I like to use solder wik to get the old solder off to remove the old battery pack and then just solder the new one on. It's always best to flow some fresh new solder on the old solder as well. Makes thing flow much better getting it off as silly as it sounds but it works best. Flow some new solder on all 6 points of the old battery pack, and then use the solder wik to remove the new and old solder. It's actually a pretty small beginner solder project. You'll need to solder on your pinball at some point might as well get started with this. I've attached a picture of the solder wick I like to use and the solder I use. Some like to use a solder sucker but I'm more comfortable with the wik. You can buy this stuff pretty much any electronics or even amazon should have it. The pricey part is the solder iron. You want to get a good one. Weller is my pick and you can find nice used ones on line as well. Just make sure the tip isn't a wreck.

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#7078 8 months ago

Damn you Final Battle!!!
Why am I almost always 1-4 shots away from completing you? Grr

#7079 8 months ago

Anyone have a front cabinet decal they are willing to part with, or where to find these?

#7080 8 months ago

I've never thought I needed one because I play in a well.lit room but boredom has taken hold. How are people liking an added spotlight on the battlefield? Is there a way to tap in nicely so that it would only turn on when you enter the battlefield? Thanks in advance.

#7081 8 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

How are people liking an added spotlight on the battlefield? Is there a way to tap in nicely so that it would only turn on when you enter the battlefield? Thanks in advance.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/72#post-3623572

#7083 8 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Where can I buy this mod?

I just messaged him directly. He already got back to me with a price plus shipping. I have to mull it over but I'm liking the idea. Too bad our dollar is so bad.

#7084 8 months ago

Only took a year since buying it, but I finally received my game on 03 May : )!!!!

pasted_image (resized).png

Sanctum $$$ shot

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Now check this out....there was a buttload of broken tempered glass in my game - all in the orbital lane, back underneath those plastics and all around the transformer....???
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Translite and PF glass are intact, so I have no idea what this glass is or where it came from......so weird.

#7085 8 months ago
Quoted from NPO:

Only took a year since buying it, but I finally received my game on 03 May : )!!!!
[quoted image]
Sanctum $$$ shot
[quoted image]
Now check this out....there was a buttload of broken tempered glass in my game - all in the orbital lane, back underneath those plastics and all around the transformer....???
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Translite and PF glass are intact, so I have no idea what this glass is or where it came from......so weird.

Dmd looks ok? Mayne the previous owner already had broken playfield glass in the back of the cab and it migrated during shipping?
Also, why a year long wait? Also, welcome

#7086 8 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Dmd looks ok? Mayne the previous owner already had broken playfield glass in the back of the cab and it migrated during shipping?
Also, why a year long wait? Also, welcome

I dunno - I'll have to ask. Totally caught me off guard.

I bought the game April 2019, and then a military deployment came up, and I got back in January. Then COVID happened, and the base restricted us to local area only; we are not allowed to leave within 1-2 hours drive of the base, so I had Bob Cunningham go and get it. He did a fantastic job and HIGHLY recommend his shipping and delivery services.

#7087 8 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

I just messaged him directly. He already got back to me with a price plus shipping. I have to mull it over but I'm liking the idea. Too bad our dollar is so bad.

Totally worth it. I just installed mine a few months ago. Pretty straightforward and works great. Yes, the dollar sucks but just don’t think about it.

#7088 8 months ago
Quoted from PBFan:

Totally worth it. I just installed mine a few months ago. Pretty straightforward and works great. Yes, the dollar sucks but just don’t think about it.

But the dollar is so bad right now that I can get a week's worth of groceries for the same price though. "Just dont think about it" isnt always an option during a global epidemic. Seems like a great product and I dont think the seller is asking too much, just that the conversion rate is trash right now and money is tighter for most people these days. Do I want one? Yup. Will I get one? We will see. I've been looking at my lighting options if I do get the grumpy kit though

#7089 8 months ago

Help from the group trying to adjust my upper right flipper. Can’t tell what is right. I have the flipper set so if you hit a perfect left loop it feeds the right tip of the flipper but if your slightly off or a slow roller it tends to bounce off the bat either resulting in a drain or left flipper feed. Is there a correct method? It looks aligned well but still seeming to have an issue game to game.

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#7090 8 months ago
Quoted from Digimatt:

Help from the group trying to adjust my upper right flipper. Can’t tell what is right. I have the flipper set so if you hit a perfect left loop it feeds the right tip of the flipper but if your slightly off or a slow roller it tends to bounce off the bat either resulting in a drain or left flipper feed. Is there a correct method? It looks aligned well but still seeming to have an issue game to game.
[quoted image]

I have mine so that a clean left orbit to raised upper flipper feeds the left scoop. The only time it occasionally sends them straight down the middle is when they are coming out of the Shadow mb area. Pretty much just centered the flipper alignment dot.

#7091 8 months ago

I just installed the grumpy Battlefield mod and I have to say, it is awesome! I’m super pumped as I like to play in the dark and it was so hard to see up there. This is a perfect solution.

I also want to say, Grumpy really helped me through my lighting issue as well. Went above and beyond to help. Stand up guy all around!

#7092 8 months ago
Quoted from SNES:

I just installed the grumpy Battlefield mod and I have to say, it is awesome! I’m super pumped as I like to play in the dark and it was so hard to see up there. This is a perfect solution.
I also want to say, Grumpy really helped me through my lighting issue as well. Went above and beyond to help. Stand up guy all around!

I love mine too...what matrix light did you end up using and how does it look? Pics pics pics!!! please. I need to diffuse mine more, its a little too hot spotty where I have it, but I think a good diffusion film will do it.

#7093 8 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I love mine too...what matrix light did you end up using and how does it look? Pics pics pics!!! please. I need to diffuse mine more, its a little too hot spotty where I have it, but I think a good diffusion film will do it.

They offer those strips in Frosted now which really cuts the spotty look. You could also put one of their inline dimmers on to further tone it down. Love the new lighting back there really helps.

#7094 8 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I love mine too...what matrix light did you end up using and how does it look? Pics pics pics!!! please. I need to diffuse mine more, its a little too hot spotty where I have it, but I think a good diffusion film will do it.

Try 2 layers of white electric tape.

#7095 8 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

I love mine too...what matrix light did you end up using and how does it look? Pics pics pics!!! please. I need to diffuse mine more, its a little too hot spotty where I have it, but I think a good diffusion film will do it.

I need to mess with diffusing options as well, but for now I was just excited to see the ball when it’s up there!

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#7096 8 months ago

If I do this I'm hoping to just put one strong white light here pointing in a direction similar to what I've drawn. I tried using the flashlight in my phone in various areas and tucking it under the left sling area seems to make the most impact. I'm thinking I can Jimmy something up to attach to the lower left sling post and feed the wire down the side etc. Before I pull the trigger on the kit, I need to sort out lighting options. I'm in Canada so shipping can be harsh. I'm thinking something like the quad pad lights I saw an above post had where they were tucked to the sides behind the drops. What kind of small ultra bright lights can people recommend? I have a very good electronics supply store locally that I may be able to source parts from if shipping is insane.

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#7097 8 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

They offer those strips in Frosted now which really cuts the spotty look. You could also put one of their inline dimmers on to further tone it down. Love the new lighting back there really helps.

I have a frosted purple on a dimmer for the "stand by" look, and a clear warm white for the "in battle" look. The purple is ok, but that clear is just way too hot spotty.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

Try 2 layers of white electric tape.

All I got is black...maybe some one I know can gimme some....you mentioned this before, its still on the table as an option.

I was thinking about attaching a piece of diffusion plastic to the back of the plate above the targets. The plastic would hang over the edge and I could bend it for different % of diffusion.

Still need to play around. Love to see pics of where people have their lights, what they use to diffuse, and the final product. Home work!

#7098 8 months ago

While I'm here....
My wire forms are nice enough that I cant justify the cost of brassing them but just looking kind of dull in some spots. What cleaners or polishes have you guys had good results with? I'd like to bring a little life back into them if I can.

#7099 8 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

While I'm here....
My wire forms are nice enough that I cant justify the cost of brassing them but just looking kind of dull in some spots. What cleaners or polishes have you guys had good results with? I'd like to bring a little life back into them if I can.

Theres a post a few page back where the dude used brasso.

I have some x-treme metal polish wadding I was going to try. I heard good things about that. Havent yet.

#7100 8 months ago
Quoted from Digimatt:

Help from the group trying to adjust my upper right flipper. Can’t tell what is right. I have the flipper set so if you hit a perfect left loop it feeds the right tip of the flipper but if your slightly off or a slow roller it tends to bounce off the bat either resulting in a drain or left flipper feed. Is there a correct method? It looks aligned well but still seeming to have an issue game to game.
[quoted image]

I was obsessing over this a few pages back when I picked up my game. The upper flipper should rest against the metal rail. This is how the game was designed as a shot from right flipper through left orbit and past the upper flipper will return the ball back to the lower right flipper.

I also looked at the game flyer and promo video (from 1994) and confirmed the game in these pics have the flipper flat against the metal ball guide.

This does in fact make the Kahn hole shot quite difficult. I suspect this is by design.

Of course - it is your game and you can set the flipper angle however you want. Many on here have changed this. But i did a good amount of digging on it.

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