(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Chitownpinball
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There are 7308 posts in this topic. You are on page 141 of 147.
#7001 3 months ago
Quoted from Flystoyer:

Hey Mad Dog,
See the photo, is this the one to remove the "Green and Yellow"--- (Funny that it's calling for white and yellow) Does this correspond?
How can you tell if there is a bad LED? Any visual signs?
Working on both yours and Yellowghosts ideas..
Thanks again all of you guys!!! -- This is great..
PS.. Is there a Group for each game like "Shadow" -- "Addams family" -- Etc...???[quoted image]

That is the 207 connector. You need 209. It is the one to the right of that.

#7002 3 months ago
Quoted from Flystoyer:

Is there a Group for each game like "Shadow" -- "Addams family" -- Etc...???

Yes, most of the popular or common machines have an club thread (such as "The Shadow Club") that someone has started.

This lists all the current clubs https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/clubs-members-only

#7003 3 months ago
Quoted from Flystoyer:

Hey Yellowghost and Mad Dog.. Thanks for all your suggestions.. I will go through the matrix and mark off in the page..
Yellowghost-When Multi metering what am I testing?

For testing..read this over
https://www.pinwiki.com//wiki/index.php?title=General

#7005 3 months ago

Have had my Shadow for a few weeks now, fully restored it and in doing so discovered all the weird quirks (and fixes for them). Hope this helps some people.......

BATTLEFIELD KICKER LEANING SIDE-TO-SIDE
Grab a pair of pliers. See the fork that the kicker arm sits in between? Squeeze the two sides together so that the kicker arm barely fits in it. In fact, even if you close it a tad too much and it sits on it but doesn't go through all the way, you're fine. The kicking action will wedge it back into place in a few games. But it won't lean - straight as an arrow. Please guys, fix yours....everyone that posts pics of their game seems to have this issue. 5 minute fix.

LEFT RAMP DOESN'T REGISTER ON RIGHT SIDE
There are a couple of solutions for this. One is the switch extender that Lermods sells. I bought this. Not quite it. No offense to those guys but it's clearly visible - the plastic isn't even clear, and moves the switch much further away than needed. I guess there's also some switch extender available, but I've never seen it. My solution was simple - get a shooter lane switch, which are usually pretty lengthy, and stretch it out and bend it up so it covers both fast shots and regular shots. I've attached a couple of pics. It's virtually invisible and registers 95% of the time.

BALLS NOT REGISTERING IN THE SANCTUM WHEN THROWN IN BY MAGNET
Over time, the balls get magnetized. If your magnet throw is weak, the ball won't fly around the bend fast enough and will hang up on the first of the three switches in the sanctum area. Magnetism exacerbates this issue. Change the balls, first. Next, carefully adjust the switches so they are not protruding as much through the playfield, but still register when you move your finger over it. With less force required, the ball should go through fine, even with reduced throw from the magnet.

SLOW/STICKY BATTLEFIELD DROP TARGETS
Take out the target bracket and remove the targets. Throw them in an ultrasonic if you got one. The bracket itself can also go in there. Alternatively, you can clean as much grease off as possible and then throw it into a vibratory tumbler overnight. But as long as you can clean it good with some 90% isopropyl or your weapon of choice, you're good. Now add car wax (paste recommended vs. liquid) to the targets where they meet the bracket, and the bracket itself. Boom, targets that go down fast AF.

SANCTUM BRICK TARGET GETTING STUCK DOWN
If the set screw that determines how high the drop target rests is too low, it will jam the kicker arm and won't go up. Then the game marks it bad. To fix this, first set the screw so the target is as high as possible when down, without going over the lip of the wood behind it. Now, use needle nose pliers to squash the thin metal protector at the bottom of the brick drop target (yours may be missing, it's common) so it's not pointy and more flat. Lastly, if you have it put a drop of LPS 1 on that metal kicker arm where it meets the drop target. Shouldn't ever happen again.
IMG_20200328_193232 (resized).jpgIMG_20200328_193236 (resized).jpg

#7006 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

That is the 207 connector. You need 209. It is the one to the right of that.

Hey Mad Dog,

No luck on the J109 pin for (Green and Yellow) -- I will run the Matrix testing one by one..next.

Darn I miss playing it already.

#7007 3 months ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Have had my Shadow for a few weeks now, fully restored it and in doing so discovered all the weird quirks (and fixes for them). Hope this helps some people.......
BATTLEFIELD KICKER LEANING SIDE-TO-SIDE
Grab a pair of pliers. See the fork that the kicker arm sits in between? Squeeze the two sides together so that the kicker arm barely fits in it. In fact, even if you close it a tad too much and it sits on it but doesn't go through all the way, you're fine. The kicking action will wedge it back into place in a few games. But it won't lean - straight as an arrow. Please guys, fix yours....everyone that posts pics of their game seems to have this issue. 5 minute fix.
LEFT RAMP DOESN'T REGISTER ON RIGHT SIDE
There are a couple of solutions for this. One is the switch extender that Lermods sells. I bought this. Not quite it. No offense to those guys but it's clearly visible - the plastic isn't even clear, and moves the switch much further away than needed. I guess there's also some switch extender available, but I've never seen it. My solution was simple - get a shooter lane switch, which are usually pretty lengthy, and stretch it out and bend it up so it covers both fast shots and regular shots. I've attached a couple of pics. It's virtually invisible and registers 95% of the time.
BALLS NOT REGISTERING IN THE SANCTUM WHEN THROWN IN BY MAGNET
Over time, the balls get magnetized. If your magnet throw is weak, the ball won't fly around the bend fast enough and will hang up on the first of the three switches in the sanctum area. Magnetism exacerbates this issue. Change the balls, first. Next, carefully adjust the switches so they are not protruding as much through the playfield, but still register when you move your finger over it. With less force required, the ball should go through fine, even with reduced throw from the magnet.
SLOW/STICKY BATTLEFIELD DROP TARGETS
Take out the target bracket and remove the targets. Throw them in an ultrasonic if you got one. The bracket itself can also go in there. Alternatively, you can clean as much grease off as possible and then throw it into a vibratory tumbler overnight. But as long as you can clean it good with some 90% isopropyl or your weapon of choice, you're good. Now add car wax (paste recommended vs. liquid) to the targets where they meet the bracket, and the bracket itself. Boom, targets that go down fast AF.
SANCTUM BRICK TARGET GETTING STUCK DOWN
If the set screw that determines how high the drop target rests is too low, it will jam the kicker arm and won't go up. Then the game marks it bad. To fix this, first set the screw so the target is as high as possible when down, without going over the lip of the wood behind it. Now, use needle nose pliers to squash the thin metal protector at the bottom of the brick drop target (yours may be missing, it's common) so it's not pointy and more flat. Lastly, if you have it put a drop of LPS 1 on that metal kicker arm where it meets the drop target. Shouldn't ever happen again.
[quoted image][quoted image]

thanks, these are great tips. On the switch extender, since you mention us, thought I'd respond (and no offense taken, feedback is always good). The switch extender we sell is a 100% fix, it is not clear as shown in all of our ads, but we feel it is nearly invisible from the player perspective. If you didn't know it was there, from the player's perspective you would not see it (see pic). Your solution will work as will others that are out there, but when you start bending switches, you can mess them up. Plus, yours requires people to solder in a new switch, which many people may not be comfortable with. The issue is that the ball tends to fly too fast and too high to register the stock switch so locating the switch further down the line is the proper fix. This may be why yours is missing some times. For $12 shipped and 5 mins to install, it's hard to go wrong with the solution we offer.
bracket view (resized).JPG

#7008 3 months ago
Quoted from Flystoyer:

Hey Mad Dog,
No luck on the J109 pin for (Green and Yellow) -- I will run the Matrix testing one by one..next.
Darn I miss playing it already.

You mean j209 pin 4 don’t you? That should be a white and yellow wire. Your response makes me think you're on the wrong connector.

#7009 3 months ago
Quoted from PinHigh1:

Anyone have a spare one of these hex posts they want to sell??? screw broke off inside it....

Hey There, (PinHigh1)

Thank you for the advice and --- see the photo only have 6 and 8 in full posts.. I can try retread one of the posts 6 and set up as an 8. With this help? Or You can call the Micro Specialties -- https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/main and explain what is needed?

Sorry, can't get a photo on your private string unless you know how to?

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#7010 3 months ago

I just DESTROYED my high score. It was also the first time I finished final battle (been close many times). I thought I'd tilted out and was super pissed lol

#7011 3 months ago
20200408_185720 (resized).jpg
#7012 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

You mean j209 pin 4 don’t you? That should be a white and yellow wire. Your response makes me think you're on the wrong connector.

Hi Mad Dog,

Ran that one as well (White and Yellow) No luck and was the same. Other thoughts?

#7013 3 months ago
Quoted from Flystoyer:

Hi Mad Dog,
Ran that one as well (White and Yellow) No luck and was the same. Other thoughts?

With that wire off (J209-4) you still had a ground fault? Did you clear your error log? If so and you still have a fault I think you have a problem in the actual switch matrix on the MPU. Sorry - might be time to send the board in for service.

#7014 3 months ago

Hi all, corona got me going stir crazy. I hate yellow targets. Despise them. I changed all the targets, still have to change single battlefield target but will soon. Doing all translucent targets on my Congo (finished) and I500 as well.

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#7015 3 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Hi all, corona got me going stir crazy. I hate yellow targets. Despise them. I changed all the targets, still have to change single battlefield target but will soon. Doing all translucent targets on my Congo (finished) and I500 as well.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I admire your OCD!
Looks pretty good too.

#7016 3 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Hi all, corona got me going stir crazy. I hate yellow targets. Despise them. I changed all the targets, still have to change single battlefield target but will soon. Doing all translucent targets on my Congo (finished) and I500 as well.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Can we get a full playfield shot? Are all targets available for sale in this blue, or did you do it yourself?

#7017 3 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Can we get a full playfield shot? Are all targets available for sale in this blue, or did you do it yourself?

I replaced all the faces. Marco has them. You'll need rivets and a riveting tool. The drop targets and kicker are painted. Plastic etch primer, candy blue, then automotive clear.
20200409_131451 (resized).jpg20200409_131600 (resized).jpg

#7018 3 months ago

Hers some of Congo.

20200409_131743 (resized).jpg20200409_131746 (resized).jpg
#7019 3 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Hi all, corona got me going stir crazy. I hate yellow targets. Despise them. I changed all the targets, still have to change single battlefield target but will soon. Doing all translucent targets on my Congo (finished) and I500 as well.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I hate yellow too but in this case..they kinda correspond with the inserts .. looks cool though.

#7020 3 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Hers some of Congo.[quoted image][quoted image]

Wow, incredible effort and execution!

#7021 3 months ago

I might explore a way to back light the targets on the battlefield.

#7022 3 months ago

While cleaning my playfield...removed the old, discolored piece of mylar off my sanctum area earlier which I was worried about making it worse. No issues at all. Wear is really not bad at all...have a circle piece of mylar I'll put down to protect. Removed and cleaned the kicker and drop target mechs earlier on the mini-playfield. Is grease recommended for the drop targets and/or on the kicker left/right "rails"?

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#7023 3 months ago
Quoted from PinHigh1:

While cleaning my playfield...removed the old, discolored piece of mylar off my sanctum area earlier which I was worried about making it worse. No issues at all. Wear is really not bad at all...have a circle piece of mylar I'll put down to protect. Removed and cleaned the kicker and drop target mechs earlier on the mini-playfield. Is grease recommended for the drop targets and/or on the kicker left/right "rails"?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good. No grease or oil of any kind on either of those assemblies. Wax all the surfaces that make contact and everything should work great.

#7024 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Looks good. No grease or oil of any kind on either of those assemblies. Wax all the surfaces that make contact and everything should work great.

Wax!! Brilliant...thank you

#7025 3 months ago
Quoted from PinHigh1:

While cleaning my playfield...removed the old, discolored piece of mylar off my sanctum area earlier which I was worried about making it worse. No issues at all. Wear is really not bad at all...have a circle piece of mylar I'll put down to protect. Removed and cleaned the kicker and drop target mechs earlier on the mini-playfield. Is grease recommended for the drop targets and/or on the kicker left/right "rails"?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Put one of those there to hide the last little bit of wear.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1026-pinball-haus/02505-shadow-sanctum-decal

#7026 3 months ago

Told you that you'd be okay removing that. I agree, get the circle decal.

#7027 3 months ago
Quoted from PinHigh1:

While cleaning my playfield...removed the old, discolored piece of mylar off my sanctum area earlier which I was worried about making it worse. No issues at all. Wear is really not bad at all...have a circle piece of mylar I'll put down to protect. Removed and cleaned the kicker and drop target mechs earlier on the mini-playfield. Is grease recommended for the drop targets and/or on the kicker left/right "rails"?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Do not put grease on those shafts. It will ruin those bronze bushings which apperently are self-lubricating.

#7028 3 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Told you that you'd be okay removing that. I agree, get the circle decal.

Yep, you were right! I'm thinking I'll get the circle decal and put it over the mylar circle.

#7029 3 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Do not put grease on those shafts. It will ruin those bronze bushings which apperently are self-lubricating.

Got it, thanks!

#7030 3 months ago
Quoted from PinHigh1:

Yep, you were right! I'm thinking I'll get the circle decal and put it over the mylar circle.

make sure the lip isn't too high, it will affect the way the ball rolls and gets sucked into the sanctum.

#7031 3 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I replaced all the faces. Marco has them. You'll need rivets and a riveting tool. The drop targets and kicker are painted. Plastic etch primer, candy blue, then automotive clear.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I didn't know I wanted all new target faces until now. Great...

#7032 3 months ago

Wanna kick some ass in a Shadow tournament?

Hey guys, I'm trying to set up an online tournament for next Friday (April 17th), and I'm trying to recruit participants that have one of the games I have. I'm going to be posting this in each of the forums for the games I own, so I apologize in advance if you get this more than once.

The tournament would be on a single game and take place over zoom. It sounds like it could be a hell of a good time.

Please head over here for info: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/online-tournament-over-zoom-#post-5587755

#7033 3 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Here’s a picture of my wall assembly underneath playfield, hope that helps..[quoted image]

Thanks for the picture dude, it did help! Turns out I’m an idiot and the switch just needed adjustment. The metal piece that pushes the wall target up would activate the switch when it came back down. Adjusted the switch and all is working correctly now! So frustrating how easy the adjustments can be sometimes haha

Now here is to hoping my battlefield lights issue is just as easy!!

#7034 3 months ago

Freshly waxed...

20200411_151718 (resized).jpg20200411_151725 (resized).jpg
#7035 3 months ago

I have been digging into my lighting issue and I have a whole column out - J137-6.

Let me start by saying I am a total newbie when it comes to this so please bear with me.

I checked continuity of J137-6 from the backbox to the battlefield and I have continuity. I was figuring broken wire somewhere but that doesn’t appear to be the case. Is it normal for this connector to be plugged into J138? Seems odd to me, but I also figure a lot of other things wouldn’t be working if it was plugged into the wrong spot?

Anyone have any ideas where to go from here? Thank you for the help!

#7036 3 months ago
Quoted from SNES:

Is it normal for this connector to be plugged into J138? Seems odd to me, but I also figure a lot of other things wouldn’t be working if it was plugged into the wrong spot?

137 and 138 do the same exact thing. If all 8 lamps are not working and the wire is not broken then you need to test the drive transistor. Test Q-93 on the power driver board, I think its a TIP107.

#7037 3 months ago

OK, did you check continuity from the pin on the board to each and every lamp in that column? Or from each lamp to the next lamp?

#7038 3 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

137 and 138 do the same exact thing. If all 8 lamps are not working and the wire is not broken then you need to test the drive transistor. Test Q-93 on the power driver board, I think its a TIP107.

I tested Q-93 and it’s good. Any other thoughts? Thank you for the reply!

#7039 3 months ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

OK, did you check continuity from the pin on the board to each and every lamp in that column? Or from each lamp to the next lamp?

I tested continuity from the board to each lamp. All good. Thank you for the response!

#7040 3 months ago
Quoted from SNES:

I tested Q-93 and it’s good.

Take a voltage reading on the metal tab of Q-93 and then compare to the transistors on either side. Should be about 6.5 volts DC.

#7041 3 months ago

OK, I once had a similar issue and it was a shorted bulb. Do you have LED's or regular bulbs? One thing you can try is remove every bulb from the sockets in that column. Then put them back in one at a time, testing after each add. It's not a common issue but worth a try.

#7042 3 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Take a voltage reading on the metal tab of Q-93 and then compare to the transistors on either side. Should be about 6.5 volts DC.

Not getting a voltage reading. The ones on either side are reading right about 2V DC. Does that mean it’s bad? Or something else?

#7043 3 months ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

OK, I once had a similar issue and it was a shorted bulb. Do you have LED's or regular bulbs? One thing you can try is remove every bulb from the sockets in that column. Then put them back in one at a time, testing after each add. It's not a common issue but worth a try.

I have regular bulbs. Thinking Grumpy is onto it with the transistor but if not, I’ll definitely give this a try. Thanks!

#7044 87 days ago

Finally finished cleaning up The Shadow I bought recently...playfield was in great shape and the cabinet pretty good too. Re-import from Germany that had been HUO in 1 home since 2000. Was very dirty when I got it but cleaned up very well.

Added Comet LEDs (Sunlight in GI/Backbox and color matched inserts + purple modes, rebuilt flippers, serviced the mini playfield kicker and drop target mechanisms, side mirror blades, purple flashers/covers, new CPR plastics, new Mantis ramps, purple Titan rubbers...I used coil stop screws to fix the wonky phurba dagger mechanisms...worked well....very tight....I cant wait to play it this weekend...!

20200415_230422 (resized).jpg20200415_230446 (resized).jpg20200415_230450 (resized).jpg
#7045 87 days ago

Still looking for an Aurich translite if someone has one for sale??

#7046 87 days ago
Quoted from PinHigh1:

Still looking for an Aurich translite if someone has one for sale??

Have you reached out to aurich to see if/when he is going to do another batch? Might be the easiest way to pick one up

#7047 87 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Have you reached out to aurich to see if/when he is going to do another batch? Might be the easiest way to pick one up

Yes I have. But have not heard back and saw a post recently indicating he was buried in other work etc....so was hoping to find someone hoarding one!

#7048 85 days ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

With that wire off (J209-4) you still had a ground fault? Did you clear your error log? If so and you still have a fault I think you have a problem in the actual switch matrix on the MPU. Sorry - might be time to send the board in for service.

How does one clear the "Error Log"?

#7049 84 days ago

So to the people that brass plated there ramps, Phurba, and ball rails. How have they held up? Im thinking about getting them done. Thank you in advance

#7050 83 days ago

I was thinking about getting my habitrails re-plated, but I figured I would try Brasso first. I have used it on a Gottlieb Stargate many years ago and it stripped off all the gold and turned it silver. But this is a Bally and I thought I would see if the gold would hold up.

Turns out it did and it took off all the tarnished looking spots. I'm very happy with how it turned out. Don't slather it on, just put some on a micro fiber tool and rub lightly. You will see immediate results. Just be careful and try it on a small area first. Maybe all Shadows are not the same. But mine worked out great. No need to get them plated now.

You can see in this picture where I have started on the left side.
IMG_2699 (resized).jpeg

This is completed. Looks fantastic!
IMG_2700 (resized).jpeg

Sorry, I don't have better pictures but I didn't plan on sharing this.

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