Just checked and I've got an extra cityscape decal. PM me your address and I'll put it in the mail.

Just put it some old superband shock absorbers. You were right, air balls now a thing of the past. Doesnt make missing the ramp rebound any easier though lol

Hey Yellowghost,

Do you have a link for a video specifically?

Forgot to say thanks Yellowghost..

I must be stupid, I get his quote about a video.. So as I am going through the matrix--take a video and share it...Correct?

Can you upload a video on this post?

Hello, you must be new here. Let me assist you.

1. Go to youtube.com and create a free account if you havent already
2. Upload your video to Youtube
3. Copy the link for the video
4. Paste the link in your post on the forum.

It will look like this:

5. Success!

Note: If your video is on your phone, go to step 1, then download the app onto your phone. You can upload direct from your phone.

Good luck.

Thanks for the help, I can do that!

Cleaned up my battlefield drop targets recently and now I’ve got an issue with the side drops jumping the reset arm. Anyone have any tips? Just seems to be some excess wiggle room in the plunger shaft.

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Is that locknut on tight?

Yes, the play is in the plunger not the reset arm.

Is the coil sleeve the correct one and not worn?

Hm I did replace it with one 1/4” shorter than the original but the same circumference. Since it still makes it through the bracket, I assumed it’s working just the same. Possibly not?

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The longer sleeve should lessen the amount of play. It's worth a shot.

Just picked up a nice Shadow and joined the club! Anyone know where I can find the alternate translite for sale??

I'm about to tear everything off the playfield and clean it up...playfield is actually in very good shape but dirty. Fixed some burnt GI connectors and a couple broken coil wires and now playing great... although probably needs the new diverter linkage piece. Been in the same home for the last 20 years!

Welcome to the club. As always, we want photos. As for the translite, write the maker (Aurich). Seems like he’ll do another run if he gets enough interest. I’ve lost count on how many runs he has done.

Thank you! Will post some up soon! Started tearing it down and am about to start cleaning. Found a couple broken parts etc I'll need to order. Question for the group - I had a lot of play on the left diverter and figured I need a new crank arm piece from PB life...but what I noticed is the tip of the diverter is really chewed up from the screws. I dont think a new crank arm assembly is the fix, is it? I'm curious how others handled a chewed up diverter tip that causes excessive play...? Thx!

Of interest to the group!

ebay.com link: Divertor Mechanism Assembly LEFT The Shadow Bally Pinball A 18954

I've got one. Pm me for info.

My left diverter tip is chewed up from the set screws and doesnt operate properly - has play and only goes half way. I'm not sure if the play is caused by the chewed up tip or the crank arm bracket/set screw is to blame.

Did some searching and cant find where someone has confirmed this. Any thoughts? If I buy the crank arm bracket will the new beefy set screws lock onto the chewed up tip? Thanks!

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PM sent!

Anyone have a spare one of these hex posts they want to sell??? screw broke off inside it....

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Make sure you are using cup tip screws NOT pointed ones. This isn’t obvious but actually makes a big difference.

The cause of this is common; a combination of improperly tightened set screw and soft material on the shaft. The set screw cup point will flatten in time, losing its ability to bite into the shaft. And the shaft will deform due to its hardness.

You can file the high points on the shaft with a small file, then replace the cup point set screw. Use a quality Allen wrench to tighten it, then re-check tightness occasionally. Harbor Freight hex key wrenches are not a good choice.

Alternatively, you can use a "patch-lock" set screw or red Loctite to retain it. This is one of the applications where using Loctite isn't a good idea though, since it can strip easily. Proper tightening and re-torquing is the best solution.

Looks good! I'm working on one now too. What did you use to clean up the wireform ramps and did you notice any of the thin brass plating peeling off?

Thanks for this feedback. I didnt even think to remove the set screws and confirm if cup or pointed - will do that and also file to create a smooth surface. Thanks for your advise!

What size are the treads--I may have one.

Hi Yellowghost and Mad Dog and or others, thanks for the guidance and support. I trust you are all well, healthy and safe...

I finally had a chance to upload a "Youtube" video of the switch test to show the craziness. My story to catch up, is that was inspired to install an LED upgrade. Game was playing well into about 60% of the LED swap out near the back end of the playfield and the mini. After completed, game will not boot up into game mode. Messages are "Ground short"-many switches in the test are not working.. Here is a "YouTube" video and some photos.

I hope I did not damage a board!!

Anyone with help and guidance to this troubling messages..What is a Ground Short and where do I start?

BTW--Since I have been on this support, I have sold a game, fixed two others and many more.. Love the help and support..

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That would be awesome - thank you. It's a 3/8" hex post. #8 male threads on the bottom, #6 hole on the top. That what you have????!!!

What on earth is going on with that connector near J121? Is that white/yellow? Looks like a hack job. May or may not be related to your issue.

Got a Shadow few days ago that was very dirty but had been in finished basement/home use since 2000. Guy never cleaned it I dont believe. Tore down the playfield and cleaned it up with Simple Green, then magic eraser then Novus 2. In really good shape! What do you think...should I remove the couple mylar pieces and put down new ones? I'm worried about messing with the Sanctum area since the wear isn't bad there but dont want to make it worse by trying to pull it up. I'm going to spend some more time cleaning up kick out holes and shooter lane then spot clear it. Plan to add some LEDs, new plastics/purple rubbers/clear star posts, new ramps, maybe powdercoat wireform ramps, backboard/target decals, redo flippers and maybe couple other mechanisms as needed. Game plays 100% after I fixed burnt GI connectors and a couple broken coil wires. Am I missing anything?? Cant wait to get this up and running...and play it! Fun game.

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I wouldn't mess around clearcoating a game that looks that nice, especially for the age of the game... That playfield looks near perfect. Unless you got Kruzman or HEP level skills, why would you clearcoat it?

Me? It is near perfect...just touch up the clear around the holes with nail polish is all I would do. That's what I meant. But should I mess with peeling up old mylar strip at sanctum?

Just a quick observation - Is J121 installed correctly? It looks like it might be off a pin. Even if it isn't, put that on your to do list. Stuff like that wrong connector always drives me nuts.

Hey Mad Dog and Yellowghost,

Connector J121 is and was correct, any other thoughts on the string. I believe you asked for a video to see the run/row of switches triggered .

Here are some updated new errors and a photo of J121--look good and check all others. Thanks for the heads up.

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What brand of LEDs are you using? Some machines really hate being LEDed but those are mostly older Gottlieb games. I don't know of any problems in that era Bally with modern LEDs. It is possible that you have a bad LED in the mix but the degree of your problem indicates a true short someplace. Most likely caused when your were changing the bulbs out. Something is touching or pinched that shouldn't be. A test you can do is pull the wire from J205 pin 4. The ground fault should go away. If the game stabilizes you know the root cause is in that wiring path.

Comet....always comet.

Thx...that's what I'll do for the drop target mylar pieces and the other larger piece on the lane under the mini playfield. But will probably leave the sanctum mylar alone for fear of peeling up that little bit of loose paint that is underneath.

I think there are two different problems. The opto are not functioning so you are getting those messages. The game wont start because it doesnt see any balls. Try reseating the connectors on the opto board.
Most switches appear to be working fine. Focus on the switches that are acting weird in the matrix. Are they on the same row/column? Check the wiring again but you might need to check the diodes on all switches on that row /column.
Also that connector is not correct. Looks like its spliced to supply power to something. Did it have a color dmd at some point?

J120 pin10 shows signs of burning. Still, I don't think that's your problem. As someone else said, you probably bent a lug somewhere under the playfield when swapping out the bulbs. Check all switches in row 4 very closely.

If you keep posting in here, you may have to change your name to "Shadow_breath"

Hey Mad Dog--Is that possible with a bad LED to create a short??

LED system came from PinballBulbs.com a full kit I did with Addams family and THIS shadow. I Did the J205--4th pin and only turned off the enter button for programing.. (See photo) -- Any further thoughts--Or did I get this incorrect?

See the Green right--is there anything there to try.. "Green=Ground??--LOL

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That connector your referring to is it the black jumper--lights the LED strips.

Hey Yellowghost--thanks for the opto.. They seam to be working on the switch text..

With your mention on the diodes--is this a visual break or a meter text and how to meter?

The splice is a LED strip power up and work well. I have removed and nothing changes.. Good thinking..

What is = " Did it have a color dmd at some point?" --- What is a dmd?

Thanks LOTR_breath-- and so many others!!!

Thanks for burnt pin #10.. Maybe when Mad Dog said Pin #4 I went right to left on the count. LMKnow..If this is correct..

Also, how do you check if the pin is bad or just replace. Looks as if it was replace before..

Boy! -- After getting through these as a novis -- I would bug you guys anymore..

Love my Shadow.. New LED.. and New Head decals ready to go.. Just need the game to work..

PS>>> Mad Dog mentioned that there could be a BAD new LED bulb.. Thoughts??

First !! Make a list of every switch that is acting weird. Then take that list to the switch matrix page in your manual. And play bingo . Cross them off with a pencil if you need to. Hopefully they are in the same row. If they are.. then diodes would be a thing to look into. And also to look at EVERY switch and look at them closely to see if they are touching something else ..like a lamp socket.
Diodes can be tested with a multi-meter and you need to unsolder one leg from the switch.

Sorry, my bad. Put that wire back. I was looking at the wrong column in the switch matrix. It should be J209-4. Pull that one and see if the ground fault goes away. And yes, a bad LED can cause all sorts of problems including ground faults. Seems unlikely in your case since the game is complaining about a problem in the switch matrix but you never know with these things.

Hey Yellowghost and Mad Dog.. Thanks for all your suggestions.. I will go through the matrix and mark off in the page..

Yellowghost-When Multi metering what am I testing?

Hey Mad Dog,

See the photo, is this the one to remove the "Green and Yellow"--- (Funny that it's calling for white and yellow) Does this correspond?

How can you tell if there is a bad LED? Any visual signs?

Working on both yours and Yellowghosts ideas..

Thanks again all of you guys!!! -- This is great..

PS.. Is there a Group for each game like "Shadow" -- "Addams family" -- Etc...???

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