Thank you so much for asking! We are good, everyone made it out safe, thank you goodness I have a basement. I really wanted to get this project, but Chris will get going for everyone.

Send a PM to Aurich. He has been keeping a list of folks who want it and periodically making a batch.

sorry to hear about the devastation woody, just glad you came out ok. I have one of the black nickel ones the other guy did if you guys need pics, measurements, etc.

Awesome thank you

I made the next batch also. But without the plating. Woody, now Chris, make a list, and I ship the parts welded and sanded in some big packages to Chris. He make the plating and the shipping in US

Thanks buddy

awesome twister, your contribution to this game was much needed and a beautiful piece. Thanks again.

I just cleaned and rebuilt my flippers on my shadow, but I still feel the flippers are just a tad weak. Have any of you guys bought new coils that are a little stronger then the orgianl for the game? If so which coils did you upgrade to?

If I added stronger coils, I'd break all the drop targets in the game. Are you sure your coils are OEM? Is the plunger rubbing aggressively on the coil sleaves? Have you checked the voltage?

Check your flipper opto boards. Those get tired / worn out and the flippers become weak because of it.

Okay good idea.. I’ll remove them and clean them.. They seem to respond just fine but could probably use a good cleaning. Have you had flipper opt cause a weak flipper before?

What do you mean? OEM? Plunger is fine this isn't my first rebuild.

Cleaning might not cut it. if it doesn't, don't be afraid to buy replacements. They are fairly cheap and have been redesigned to be more reliable. Yes, diminished through put will impact flipper performance. The actual optos are only part of the equation. Failing traces, resistors, solder and pin corrosion are all other possible culprits of problems on that particular board.

Hey guys - almost finished with my restore....some weird stuff I'm seeing and wondering if anyone has solutions -

1) See photo.....is this how the Battlefield kicker should look? It's metal on metal - no sleeve of any kind. When you move it with your hand, it makes quite the squeak sound. I imagine it'll probably be inaudible during gameplay but it just seems bizarre that it left the factory like this...is something missing here?

2) I've cleaned my Battlefield drop targets to the nth degree, and the bracket....I can see no place that would create drag. Despite this, the targets go down much slower than your typical lightning-fast drop target. Is this normal? Are yours fast to drop or is this just the design?

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Put car wax on the metal parts.

Yep! I put one drop of LPS on mine. Nice and smooth, no noise.

Where does this plastic go? Thanks!

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on top of ramp entrance

Is there suppose to be two ramp covers like that? I think mine are both missing.

I need to do my star posts in purple....every time I see it Im jealous.

Don't forget the flasher domes while you're at it!

Just finished my restore. What do you think?

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Yes. Slightly different for each ramp. See the pics between your post and this one.

Thats done already! Guess I just didnt get the memo on the posts...

Okay I was just looking at that other guys picture posts above and just noticed the other one. Thanks! During gameplay the ball doesn’t seem to jump off the ramp or anything so maybe I don’t need them. I do have some plastic laying around I could probably make a set if I needed too.

Seems like those plastics also restrain the sides of the ramps and help keep the welds from breaking, which is a common issue.

Yeah probably a good reinforcement for the front of those ramps.

Looks great! Is that a new playfield? How was the dimple and hole alignment? any specific issues with dialing it in for final playability?

I am thinking about buying a new pf

Glad you asked. DO NOT DO IT. It was a nightmare.

I've restored 5 games - all Williams/Bally. This game has the least "stuff" and yet took 4x longer than any other game I've done. Why? Because I used a CPR playfield. And the dimples are ALL wrong. OK let me be fair, 10% of the dimples were in the right place. The rest are either missing completely are off by as much as half an inch.

The through-holes on the top side were pretty good, I cannot recall any misalignments. But the clear coat that CPR uses is garbage. Put it this way, I've played 10 games on it so far since restore - using pristine Ball Baron Ninja balls - and yet most of the playfield is already scratched up and looks well-played.

Contrast this with the restores I've done...for example my TAF has 1,200 plays since restore and the playfield has far fewer scratches than the CPR Shadow with 10 plays on it. I use PPG auto clear coat. Whatever CPR uses ain't it.

Sorry to put a damper on your possible project, but if I can save someone the hassle, I want to do that. I don't know if there are NOS or other brand pfs out there for The Shadow, but I wouldn't use a CPR pf again if it was free.

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The only "dial in" issues I had, were mostly Battlefield related. The hammer swiveled side to side when in motion (common issue). This is fixed by using pliers to carefully close the bracket/fork it sits in so that there is only enough room for it to settle on (in the center groove but not pushing through). Also had to fix the slow-dropping targets using a tip I got on here - car wax. Sped those babies right up. Oh, and one of the rails the hammer rides on - the one with the black bumpers on each end - one side was broken off, causing the hammer to sometimes come off track and not move. I don't know if you can buy this part (it's a tiny piece that screws into the rail) but I used a couple of lock-nuts and a screw to accomplish the goal....until I can find that piece.

Looks great, needs one of those cityscape backbox decals. Just sayin'

There called well nuts. Home Depot has them.

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Officially joined the club today!

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That's very discouraging to hear for such a premium priced product!

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-10121
Marco sell those rubber pieces.

This surprises me. Dimples being wrong isn't a big deal but bad clear is a huge issue. Do you have some photos of the damage that you can share? I've done several CPR installs without issue. They have all been old school silkscreened ones. Haven't tried one of the new digital printed ones yet.

My CPR playfield still looks great. The "sanctum" area began to get dimbled within months of use. I would recommend cutting a piece of playfield protector and placing it overtop if you have.

This seems to be the closest Home Depot has - will this work?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-8-32-x-15-32-in-Brass-Expansion-Nut-814338/204276115

Marco is 8x pricier and if I can run down the street and grab one, A+.

I don't think this is a new one. I mean, the date stamped on it, Jan 2010 can't be right but I think they made these a while ago. The wood quality is great in that there are no top-side dimples of any kind but I don't get bent out of shape about those. Not sure I'd call the clear coat "damage" (no chipping). It's just not very scratch resistant compared to other clear coats.

Thanks. I placed a nice thicker piece of circular mylar over this area and the magnet still works perfectly.

Probably should have put LEDS in shadow before putting her next to TRON...
Have some cool white comets im going to use until i can get pinstadiums. My question is what color schemes are people using for posts, rubbers, etc? Im thinking black bats with purple flipper rubbers but I havent thought about flasher domes and star posts yet. Any suggested mods? I havent heard back from Aurich yet but was wondering if theres any other upgrades or mods considered necessary.

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There are lots of mods. Number one is the translite, though. LEDs, speaker panel, speaker system, brass wire forms, nvram, and lockbar etching are all very popular. I would also recommend getting the wireform switch extender that Djshakes makes.

Some people like adding figures. I prefer the backdrop cityscape mod and custom apron cards. Blue leg directors look pretty sweet too.
The flasher domes look great in blue or purple. Rubber colors tend to work best in black, purple, and blue as well. I did see someone with clear rubber rings that looked interesting, however.

Been putting off redoing my head decals for a long time, but being home and with time on my hands...

...I think I got them off eBay at some point, they look good and much better then the ripped ones I had on there. I just need to find a front cabinet decal, impossible to find it seems.
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Hey fellow Shadow'ers -- need some guidance just updated LED and looks great! but now all working except the game will not engage to start the button.

Any thoughts or quick go tos - Darn.. finished the lights and can't play the game..Hate when that happens.. LOL.

Turn the game on--runs through all the balls and ready on free play.. Will not start.. Tried to bypass the switch contacts with no luck..

Let me know what you think?

Did this start right after you swapped to LEDs?
Double Check the wires and connectors on the start button
Make sure all molex and ribbon cables in the backbox are tight/reseat them
Check your switch tests, does it register there? What about your other swtiches?
Is it possible you have any battery leakage/damage on the CPU board?

Not sure what you mean by that. Do the ball trough switches register correctly in switch test?
Game will not start if it thinks any balls are missing, and you can have them not seated correctly in the trough after doing work where you lift the playfield.

Hey guys,

Thanks for the input--Check the board look great..It was playing fine with over 1/2 the mod done..after completed NO work.. Help!

Here is a couple photos message and the mod LED--looks great but Can't play--LOL..!

So--I get a ground error--also test switch mode- it does not show up, but as I test others--flashes of missing ground is happening on many switches.

Is it possible that I pulled out light sockets from the playfield it shorted out a ground or board? Where would I start looking?

Also thought of swapping switches--but at "Switch Test" mode, pressing the "Extra Ball" button right bottom coin door--message quick flash--"Ground Missing"
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I need diffusion gel/plastic for my battlefield led strip too....

Been dusting the cobwebs off my Shadow after it was essentially in storage the last 10 years. I’ve got everything playing great but I keep getting a mysterious credit dot midway through some games. After the game is over (and I’ve confirmed the dot is still there), I go into menu for a test report and... nothing. I exit menu and it’s gone. I can confirm all the switches and optos are functioning as intended.

Also is there a bug in the mirrors scoring? Says reward is 70mil. Completed it earlier right at the start of Ball 1, drained quickly after and my score was only 20mil. Wha?

Batteries or NVRam? I've seen weak batteries cause credit dot problems. If they aren't weak, maybe the contacts on the battery holder are corroded. Also make sure the date and time are set.

NVRAM with a rottendog MPU. I actually was able to catch when it happens during another game after I made my post. Sometimes after locking Ball 2, instead of kicking a ball from the trough it will kick the ball from the lock area instead. It showed up in the same instant the ball was released from the lock, then the same set of events transpired with the menu check.

Also did I catch that the mirrors 70 mil is awarded after you fully defeat the battlefield? That must have been why my score was low.

Shadow Battlefield Shroud
Hey everyone, sorry to just now respond to this. Between the tornado, then this virus stuff, throw in a little regular life, I'm just now getting around to looking into this project. I plan to meet with some of our guys who make parts for us that we already sell and also a fabricator that Woody was working with too, this week. That being said, this could move along quickly, or it may take a little while. I normally don't do sign ups for parts, but instead just make them and throw them out there, which is a little chancy on my end, but it keeps people off my back and from knowing what's coming next, I kinda like the surprise element. That being said, this cat is out of the bag, and I'm picking up the bag. I consider Woody a dear friend of mine. Guys, I'm telling ya, his house was obliterated. THere's a GoFundMe set up for he and his family if you have a little to throw this way. He may kill me for mentioning it but I don't really care
You can support his family here: https://www.gofundme.com/f/woodard-tornado-relief-fund?utm_source=customer&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_campaign=m_pd+share-sheet
I will be back with more info when I have it, probably not real soon. In the meantime I have a list of Pinsider names and what finish they want one of these things in.
SO WHAT DO YOU NEED TO DO???
Send me a EMAIL ([email protected]) NOT PINSIDE MESSAGE - with your Pinside name, Real Name, Address, Phone, AND which plating you want on it.
This way I have all of your info together in one place and I'm not hunting you down when this project is completed. It will save time when they are ready. I will send you a invoice, you will pay, then it will ship. Pretty simple stuff.
If you are not familiar with our stuff, we do most of the plating for the hobby, and I'm of course glad to help with any of that I can as well. We keep Shadow guns and Shadow wireform sets ready for exchange (among lots of other parts), already done, so you don't have to wait for the plating process. We of course have all new trim for a shadow (and many other machines) as well in chrome or brass - also gloss black powder, although it's not on the site currently. Glad to help with any of that and it's all at www.pinballplating.com
Looking forward to this project, Woody has been talking about this with me for a while so I knew it was coming and that we'd be doing the plating. Should be fun. Thanks to Woody for bringing me in on this.
Chris
[email protected]
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What’s up gang? I just joined the club with a fantastic example. The one issue is the DMD is on its last legs and needs to go. Anyone update to a color DMD and have their old DMD available? If I can’t find a decently priced used DMD, I’ll probably bite the bullet and grab a color DMD.