(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

7 years ago



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#6751 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Anyone have glare issues sometimes affecting the battle field kicker? The ball sometimes rests on the kicker on the left side for a bit till the opto kicks in. I didn't have a ton of time to diagnose before heading out of town. Plays great with glass off. Optos register fine in switch test. Actually played fine last night. I pulled the battlefield out to clean the drop targets. I have pinstadium lights I made installed but I've done this on four shadows with no issue. For good measure I covered the lights with tape behind the opto. Thinking this is an easy fix, just wanted to have some ideas lined up for when I get back on Saturday. Wanted to make mechanical adjustments before possibly buying a 24 opto board for under playfield.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, my first shadow had this problem. I bought a kit from bay area that fixed it but I bought the last one and that was like 5 years ago. Try taking some LEDs out of the backbox.

#6752 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Anyone have glare issues sometimes affecting the battle field kicker? The ball sometimes rests on the kicker on the left side for a bit till the opto kicks in. I didn't have a ton of time to diagnose before heading out of town. Plays great with glass off. Optos register fine in switch test. Actually played fine last night. I pulled the battlefield out to clean the drop targets. I have pinstadium lights I made installed but I've done this on four shadows with no issue. For good measure I covered the lights with tape behind the opto. Thinking this is an easy fix, just wanted to have some ideas lined up for when I get back on Saturday. Wanted to make mechanical adjustments before possibly buying a 24 opto board for under playfield.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Here is a pic of the service bulletin about it. Look at the last line.

Screenshot_20200220-175502_Drive (resized).jpg
#6753 4 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

Here is a pic of the service bulletin about it. Look at the last line.[quoted image]

Here's a pic of A-20424 (the Mini-PF Opto kit) mentioned in the Service Bulletin
a-20424 (resized).jpg

Haven't been able to find a good image of the instructions Doc# 16-10112.1 (you need to click on the image to see the full document) - if someone has the WMS Service Bulletin Book 1996 (pages 15 & 16) and can post a clearer copy that'd be good. eBay has a listing for the SB 1996 book at the moment (maybe we should ask them to snap a pic for us ) ebay.com link » Williams Wms Games Parts And Service Service Bulletin 1996
A-20424 Instructions.pdf

#6754 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Here's a pic of A-20424 (the Mini-PF Opto kit) mentioned in the Service Bulletin
[quoted image]
Haven't been able to find a good image of the instructions Doc# 16-10112.1 (you need to click on the image to see the full document) - if someone has the WMS Service Bulletin Book 1996 (pages 15 & 16) and can post a clearer copy that'd be good. eBay has a listing for the SB 1996 book at the moment (maybe we should ask them to snap a pic for us ) ebay.com link » Williams Wms Games Parts And Service Service Bulletin 1996
[quoted image]

Yep, that's the repair kit. I bought last one from rick years ago. What's weird is only some shadows do it and my old one did it as soon as I added LEDs and invisiglass.

#6755 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Anyone have glare issues sometimes affecting the battle field kicker? The ball sometimes rests on the kicker on the left side for a bit till the opto kicks in. I didn't have a ton of time to diagnose before heading out of town. Plays great with glass off. Optos register fine in switch test. Actually played fine last night. I pulled the battlefield out to clean the drop targets. I have pinstadium lights I made installed but I've done this on four shadows with no issue. For good measure I covered the lights with tape behind the opto. Thinking this is an easy fix, just wanted to have some ideas lined up for when I get back on Saturday. Wanted to make mechanical adjustments before possibly buying a 24 opto board for under playfield.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from woody76:

Yes, my first shadow had this problem. I bought a kit from bay area that fixed it but I bought the last one and that was like 5 years ago. Try taking some LEDs out of the backbox.

While the repair kit is no longer available, Marco has the extension bracket in stock if you need / want to try it

Based on the repair kit (see instructions in above post) this is what you need:
1 x 01-14013 https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-14013
2 x 4108-01004-06 https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/bally-parts/4108-01004-06.html

#6756 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

While the repair kit is no longer available, Marco has the extension bracket in stock if you need / want to try it
Based on the repair kit (see instructions in above post) this is what you need:
1 x 01-14013 https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-14013
2 x 4108-01004-06 https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/bally-parts/4108-01004-06.html

Thanks for posting, I might grab one as a backup incase my current shadow starts having problems

#6757 4 months ago

I'll report back!

#6758 4 months ago

Guys, still looking for a lead on quality original backbox decals. Lemme know thanks.

#6759 4 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Guys, still looking for a lead on quality original backbox decals. Lemme know thanks.

If you can find a set, I'll take the front decal. Nobody seems to have cabinet decals for this game. I have side decals for the head, but I need them.

#6760 4 months ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

What kind of powder coat looks like the original brass though?

I had seen this before. Way overpriced. The price is almost the same as what the wireforms cost new.

wouldn't worry about brass, black ramps look badass.

#6761 4 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

wouldn't worry about brass, black ramps look badass.

This statement is incorrect BTW.

#6762 4 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Guys, still looking for a lead on quality original backbox decals. Lemme know thanks.

I found the back box decals on Pinball Decals Inc. Anyone have experience with these guys? Good quality?

#6763 4 months ago

I ordered the opto extender from Marco. Inpatient as I am I tried a few things. Changed out backbox leds with sunlight. Seems to help. Also cut a drinking straw and hot glued them around the optos so nothing could interfere from top or bottom. Barely happens now.

Interesting note, that opto extender moves the opto further away from the other opto. Will be interesting to see if it works.

#6764 4 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

I found the back box decals on Pinball Decals Inc. Anyone have experience with these guys? Good quality?

Ordered from there several times no problems.
Never bought cabinet decals, but the things I bought were good quality.
They are usually more expensive when other suppliers also have the same part.
Price on those doesn't look bad though.

#6765 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Interesting note, that opto extender moves the opto further away from the other opto. Will be interesting to see if it works.

I noticed this too. I suspect that because the original bracket has a hole in it and the extender only moves the opto itself back, it's in affect trying to narrow the light source to only that of the opto transmitting. Of course the original engineers were only dealing with incandescent globes back then, so it may not be quite as effective with sounding glare from LEDs and Pin Stadiums - that said I think that combining using the extender and your straw technique between the new position of the opto receiver and the bracket hole would further reduce the chance of this issue occurring

#6766 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I noticed this too. I suspect that because the original bracket has a hole in it and the extender only moves the opto itself back, it's in affect trying to narrow the light source to only that of the opto transmitting. Of course the original engineers were only dealing with incandescent globes back then, so it may not be quite as effective with sounding glare from LEDs and Pin Stadiums - that said I think that combining using the extender and your straw technique between the new position of the opto receiver and the bracket hole would further reduce the chance of this issue occurring

I have used the extender with LEDs and invisiglass and it does fix the problem 100%.

#6767 4 months ago

Installed the bracket. Removed the straw and works fine. Surprising how close to side of cab it places the opto. I noticed my battlefield was playing slow after. I could beat it everytime. Keep in mind this thing is cleared, waxed, etc. I swapped out the kicker coil. Seems to have helped. Some of the windings on the old were a little loose. I also lubed the kicker arm. I can't imagine the opto caused slowness. Think I'm all set now but will keep monitoring.

#6768 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Installed the bracket. Removed the straw and works fine. Surprising how close to side of cab it places the opto. I noticed my battlefield was playing slow after. I could beat it everytime. Keep in mind this thing is cleared, waxed, etc. I swapped out the kicker coil. Seems to have helped. Some of the windings on the old were a little loose. I also lubed the kicker arm. I can't imagine the opto caused slowness. Think I'm all set now but will keep monitoring.

yea, I hated how close it was to the cabinet wall.

#6769 4 months ago

So...I tried a test clean with Nevr-Dull on the brass wire forms......NOPE. It easily removes whatever brass coloring/plating was there, leaving you with a slightly-brass tinted chrome wire form. Doesn't look like you can really even clean these things up without stripping them....

Anyone found a reasonably priced way to get the old brass wire forms looking respectable?

#6770 4 months ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

So...I tried a test clean with Nevr-Dull on the brass wire forms......NOPE. It easily removes whatever brass coloring/plating was there, leaving you with a slightly-brass tinted chrome wire form. Doesn't look like you can really even clean these things up without stripping them....
Anyone found a reasonably priced way to get the old brass wire forms looking respectable?

there is not, that old brass coating they used back in the day will rub right off. You can send them to Robert to be powder coated a brass looking color if you do not want to have them brassed by Chris

#6771 4 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

there is not, that old brass coating they used back in the day will rub right off. You can send them to Robert to be powder coated a brass looking color if you do not want to have them brassed by Chris

I, too made this mistake trying to clean my wireforms with a green 3M pad. Too cheap to get them replated but also aren’t satisfied with the glossy “metal” powders. Thinking of doing my whole game in a dark metallic blue...

#6772 4 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

I, too made this mistake trying to clean my wireforms with a green 3M pad. Too cheap to get them replated but also aren’t satisfied with the glossy “metal” powders. Thinking of doing my whole game in a dark metallic blue...

I had one I did all black nickel in and it looked great. Dark blue would probably look good

#6773 4 months ago

Im getting to the point where I cant stand the condition of my shadow currently.

I need to do get a board serviced, do the flipper rebuilds, and probably address the linkage on my diverters. I also have a mod Id like to install, but cant justify it until I get this other shit sorted.

Has any one bought and installed these yet? What was your experience? I had trouble with my diverters right when I got my game. I was able to adjust and tighten them as much I could. Theyve worked for the last 6 months, but Im sure the day will come where it wont work again at all.

Let me know if yall have these in your game. Pricey, but a hell of a nice part it looks like. Thanks!

https://www.pinballlife.com/the-shadow-crank-arm-assembly.html

#6774 4 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Im getting to the point where I cant stand the condition of my shadow currently.
I need to do get a board serviced, do the flipper rebuilds, and probably address the linkage on my diverters. I also have a mod Id like to install, but cant justify it until I get this other shit sorted.
Has any one bought and installed these yet? What was your experience? I had trouble with my diverters right when I got my game. I was able to adjust and tighten them as much I could. Theyve worked for the last 6 months, but Im sure the day will come where it wont work again at all.
Let me know if yall have these in your game. Pricey, but a hell of a nice part it looks like. Thanks!
https://www.pinballlife.com/the-shadow-crank-arm-assembly.html

Shadows can be a royal PITA

I have installed these before, twice and about to do a 3rd. One went easy and the other was a bitch. If your set screws are all stripped out and stuff it can be a real pain. I also had trouble getting my diverter out of the assembly. Ended up hammering it out.

The actual part is fantastic and once installed makes a big difference.

#6775 4 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

Shadows can be a royal PITA
I have installed these before, twice and about to do a 3rd. One went easy and the other was a bitch. If your set screws are all stripped out and stuff it can be a real pain. I also had trouble getting my diverter out of the assembly. Ended up hammering it out.
The actual part is fantastic and once installed makes a big difference.

It looks like it comes with NEW screws too....Im pretty sold. Looks nice.

What color post sleeves do yall like? Just black? I saw grey...

#6776 4 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Im getting to the point where I cant stand the condition of my shadow currently.
I need to do get a board serviced, do the flipper rebuilds, and probably address the linkage on my diverters. I also have a mod Id like to install, but cant justify it until I get this other shit sorted.
Has any one bought and installed these yet? What was your experience? I had trouble with my diverters right when I got my game. I was able to adjust and tighten them as much I could. Theyve worked for the last 6 months, but Im sure the day will come where it wont work again at all.
Let me know if yall have these in your game. Pricey, but a hell of a nice part it looks like. Thanks!
https://www.pinballlife.com/the-shadow-crank-arm-assembly.html

The elongated hole on the originals wears over time and increases in diameter, then the phurbas bang the ramps. It's a steep price for such a small part but necessary unfortunately. Yeah, they can be a hassle to install but I would rather deal with mechanical issues any day over electrical. Do it once and you will never have to again.

-2
#6777 4 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

It looks like it comes with NEW screws too....Im pretty sold. Looks nice.
What color post sleeves do yall like? Just black? I saw grey...

Black rubber is shit. Dead bouncy and dirty as shit. Get rid of that crap. If you don't like colors go with grey at a minimum. I know there is a bandwagon of haters pertaining to color LEDs and silicone rubbers. I don't deck my games out in color GI (I like sunlight) but why woudln't you want to upgrade rubbers, etc. All these wonderful products that perform and look better and people want to dig in their sclerotic heels and hate on anything other than "original". You ever see a stock game with incandescent bulbs and black rubbers? You can't even see the fucking game and it plays like shit much less having to shop it twice as often as the rubber deteriorates. They can't play a faster bouncier game so hate on it. Learn to adapt.

#6778 4 months ago

Weirdly enough, mine ends up binding real bad with the new part. Haven't figured out a good system to fix this yet. Still working on it. Compared to the battlefield motor/pinion gear, etc, its a relatively easy fix.

Haven't tackled the pinion issue yet -- dreading it majorly. Especially when the whole shadow pinion gear repair kit (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-20417) is out of stock everywhere and the alternative from Marco (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-20267-RP) is ~$90. Yikes.

Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Im getting to the point where I cant stand the condition of my shadow currently.
I need to do get a board serviced, do the flipper rebuilds, and probably address the linkage on my diverters. I also have a mod Id like to install, but cant justify it until I get this other shit sorted.
Has any one bought and installed these yet? What was your experience? I had trouble with my diverters right when I got my game. I was able to adjust and tighten them as much I could. Theyve worked for the last 6 months, but Im sure the day will come where it wont work again at all.
Let me know if yall have these in your game. Pricey, but a hell of a nice part it looks like. Thanks!
https://www.pinballlife.com/the-shadow-crank-arm-assembly.html

#6779 4 months ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

Weirdly enough, mine ends up binding real bad with the new part. Haven't figured out a good system to fix this yet. Still working on it. Compared to the battlefield motor/pinion gear, etc, its a relatively easy fix.
Haven't tackled the pinion issue yet -- dreading it majorly. Especially when the whole shadow pinion gear repair kit (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-20417) is out of stock everywhere and the alternative from Marco (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-20267-RP) is ~$90. Yikes.

I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I love working on games more than playing them. I had this issue a well. My initial inclination was that the phurba shaft was bent and a slight variation in tolerances with the new bracket was causing it to bind in the diverter shaft. I greased the shaft, etc. to no avail. The shaft on the phurba was pretty straight, so that wasn't the problem. I had an extra diverter bracket and replaced my current which looked fine and it helped a lot. It was almost too easy to move and I worried a ramp shot would actually cause the phurba to shift to the center of the ramp. I increased the spring size and am back in business. The more I thought about it afterwards I sort of wish I tested the original diverter bracket that was binding slightly with the game on (my playfield was removed bc I clearcoated it and reassembled outside the game) because those magnets are pretty strong. You really hear them thunk when activated. I think a little bind is better than none just to keep the phurba in place. These are pinball machines and not a finely tuned watch. Their tolerances are like that of an AK-47 and not an AR15. So expect some slop and variation from machine to machine.

#6780 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I love working on games more than playing them. I had this issue a well. My initial inclination was that the phurba shaft was bent and a slight variation in tolerances with the new bracket was causing it to bind in the diverter shaft. I greased the shaft, etc. to no avail. The shaft on the phurba was pretty straight, so that wasn't the problem. I had an extra diverter bracket and replaced my current, that looked fine and it helped a lot. It was almost too easy to move and I worried a ramp shot would actually cause the phurba to shift to the center of the ramp. I increased the spring size and am back in business. The more I thought about it afterwards I sort of wish I tested the original diverter bracket with the game on (my playfield was removed bc I clearcoated it and reassembled outside the game) because those magnets are pretty strong. You really hear them thunk when activated. I think a little bind is better than none just to keep the phurba in place. These are pinball machines and not a finely tuned watch. Their tolerances are like that of an AK-47 and not an AR15. So expect some slop and variation from machine to machine.

a heavier spring helped mine also

#6781 4 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

This statement is incorrect BTW.

your mom disagrees, btw!

#6782 4 months ago

hey guys, I got to gauge interest in doing a run of the metal battlefield shrouds. Another guy did a handful but has since walked away. The one I do will be an exact replica to where his was slightly different. I assume he could not do all the bends and stuff. I can offer in brass, chrome, and black nickel and can even do some powder coated ones if need and maybe even sell some as raw steel and you can do whatever you want to them. It really only makes sense to do at least 50 pieces. I am thinking they will be $200 plus shipping with brass, chrome, or black nickel plating. If there is enough interest I will pursue it if not i will not. Please PM me if it is something you are interested in.

#6783 4 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

hey guys, I got to gauge interest in doing a run of the metal battlefield shrouds. Another guy did a handful but has since walked away. The one I do will be an exact replica to where his was slightly different. I assume he could not do all the bends and stuff. I can offer in brass, chrome, and black nickel and can even do some powder coated ones if need and maybe even sell some as raw steel and you can do whatever you want to them. It really only makes sense to do at least 50 pieces. I am thinking they will be $200 plus shipping with brass, chrome, or black nickel plating. If there is enough interest I will pursue it if not i will not. Please PM me if it is something you are interested in.

Man that would be cool...

#6784 4 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

hey guys, I got to gauge interest in doing a run of the metal battlefield shrouds. Another guy did a handful but has since walked away. The one I do will be an exact replica to where his was slightly different. I assume he could not do all the bends and stuff. I can offer in brass, chrome, and black nickel and can even do some powder coated ones if need and maybe even sell some as raw steel and you can do whatever you want to them. It really only makes sense to do at least 50 pieces. I am thinking they will be $200 plus shipping with brass, chrome, or black nickel plating. If there is enough interest I will pursue it if not i will not. Please PM me if it is something you are interested in.

I love my Shadow. I’m down for one.

#6785 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I love my Shadow. I’m down for one.

I got those parts today, thanks man

#6786 4 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

hey guys, I got to gauge interest in doing a run of the metal battlefield shrouds. Another guy did a handful but has since walked away. The one I do will be an exact replica to where his was slightly different. I assume he could not do all the bends and stuff. I can offer in brass, chrome, and black nickel and can even do some powder coated ones if need and maybe even sell some as raw steel and you can do whatever you want to them. It really only makes sense to do at least 50 pieces. I am thinking they will be $200 plus shipping with brass, chrome, or black nickel plating. If there is enough interest I will pursue it if not i will not. Please PM me if it is something you are interested in.

I am keeping a spreadsheet going of people interested. Please send me PM with the plating option you will want. Black nickel, chrome, brass, black powder coat, or raw steel. I am also working on decal but that is least of my worries at this point. I can do a gold decal with black print.

#6787 4 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

hey guys, I got to gauge interest in doing a run of the metal battlefield shrouds. Another guy did a handful but has since walked away. The one I do will be an exact replica to where his was slightly different. I assume he could not do all the bends and stuff. I can offer in brass, chrome, and black nickel and can even do some powder coated ones if need and maybe even sell some as raw steel and you can do whatever you want to them. It really only makes sense to do at least 50 pieces. I am thinking they will be $200 plus shipping with brass, chrome, or black nickel plating. If there is enough interest I will pursue it if not i will not. Please PM me if it is something you are interested in.

Can you post a picture of this? I am new to the club so I am not familiar. But sounds cool.

#6788 4 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Can you post a picture of this? I am new to the club so I am not familiar. But sounds cool.

Nothing produced yet, but it will look just like the plastic guard round the battlefield except 16 gauge sheet metal and then plated or powder coated. I do not want to invest the money if only like 10 people want one.

#6789 4 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

Nothing produced yet, but it will look just like the plastic guard round the battlefield except 16 gauge sheet metal and then plated or powder coated. I do not want to invest the money if only like 10 people want one.

How will/does yours compare with the previous black nickel one that was released about a year ago (I have that one)?

#6790 4 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

How will/does yours compare with the previous black nickel one that was released about a year ago (I have that one)?

Mine will be exact replica of the original but in 16 gauge sheet metal. I think the small run the other guy did had several differences from the original in the bends and shapes. I understand why he did it the way he did, but I want it to be exactly like original. I can offer other finishes, but seems like everyone is wanting black nickel.

#6791 4 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

Nothing produced yet, but it will look just like the plastic guard round the battlefield except 16 gauge sheet metal and then plated or powder coated. I do not want to invest the money if only like 10 people want one.

I'm interested. Black nickel for me.

Do you have any pics?

#6792 4 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I'm interested. Black nickel for me.
Do you have any pics?

not yet, checking interest now. Before i go produce a ton of these things I want to make sure they sell. I used to sell the plated parts, so all that is not problem . Black nickel looks fantastic.

#6793 4 months ago

I have done the last run. I made the difference, because I don't want to make a replication, I want to make it with a cleaner optic.

#6794 4 months ago
Quoted from Twister:

I have done the last run. I made the difference, because I don't want to make a replication, I want to make it with a cleaner optic.

I love yours, just wasn't able to get in on that first run!

#6795 4 months ago

The only problem was to find a company for black chrome. The first run was done from a friend of a friend. But he can't make it again. I contact some other companies, but no luck.
I can at the moment obly make with powder coat, or without any coating.

#6796 4 months ago
Quoted from Twister:

I have done the last run. I made the difference, because I don't want to make a replication, I want to make it with a cleaner optic.

yea, I loved yours, but not producing anymore. I sent you a PM, maybe you can form the metal and I plate it over here and distribute. I would rather have a exact replica, but it is more expensive to produce than your version.

#6797 4 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

hey guys, I got to gauge interest in doing a run of the metal battlefield shrouds. Another guy did a handful but has since walked away. The one I do will be an exact replica to where his was slightly different. I assume he could not do all the bends and stuff. I can offer in brass, chrome, and black nickel and can even do some powder coated ones if need and maybe even sell some as raw steel and you can do whatever you want to them. It really only makes sense to do at least 50 pieces. I am thinking they will be $200 plus shipping with brass, chrome, or black nickel plating. If there is enough interest I will pursue it if not i will not. Please PM me if it is something you are interested in.

I got my production and plating cost down. Sent a message to Twister to see if he wants to form the metal and I plate them here in the States (have not heard back). If he does not I at least know what my cost are. I have 10-15 folks interested and want to have some more before I move forward. Looks like everyone is leaning towards black nickel so I am not even going to mess with chrome, brass, or powder coat unless someone specifically request it. Still on the fence about it but if I can get some more folks interested I will pull the trigger.

#6798 4 months ago
Quoted from Twister:

The only problem was to find a company for black chrome. The first run was done from a friend of a friend. But he can't make it again. I contact some other companies, but no luck.
I can at the moment obly make with powder coat, or without any coating.

I got one of yours too but have been too busy to install it, I'm glad I was able to get in on one, thank you again for making this awesome mod!

Quoted from woody76:

I got my production and plating cost down. Sent a message to Twister to see if he wants to form the metal and I plate them here in the States (have not heard back). If he does not I at least know what my cost are. I have 10-15 folks interested and want to have some more before I move forward. Looks like everyone is leaning towards black nickel so I am not even going to mess with chrome, brass, or powder coat unless someone specifically request it. Still on the fence about it but if I can get some more folks interested I will pull the trigger.

Best of luck to you and I would be in if I didn't buy one from Twister. I hope you can get enough interest to make it happen, good luck!

#6799 4 months ago
Quoted from Twister:

I have done the last run. I made the difference, because I don't want to make a replication, I want to make it with a cleaner optic.

Twister’s mod is beautiful!

#6800 4 months ago

I’m happy with twisters effort. It looks amazing. Because mine never had the cover from the beginning I have no clue why you say that it’s not an exact replica? I’m just happy to have one at all at this point. I will say that I think it would look amazing in brass to match the metal rails. I think I only had the choice of black nickel when I ordered from Twister? Great product either way. I love mine.

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