(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

7 years ago



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  • 7,313 posts
  • 584 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by Lermods
  • Topic is favorited by 208 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 7313 posts in this topic. You are on page 135 of 147.
#6701 5 months ago

Does anyone have a Shadow keychain and/or any promo plastics?

#6702 5 months ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Yeah the inner loop under the battle field. I could use one of those extras if you wouldn't mind shipping it out to me. I'd be happy to pay for it.

I cant definitely do that. Send me a PM.

#6703 5 months ago
Quoted from Fish17:

I cant definitely do that. Send me a PM.

Where is this plastic I don't see it on the inner loop.

The_Shadow_Plastics.pdf
#6704 5 months ago

fish17

Here you go
Shadow-Plastic-Location-Solved (resized).pngShadow-Plastic-Location-Solved-2 (resized).png

#6705 5 months ago
Quoted from tiesmasc:

fish17
Here you go
[quoted image][quoted image]

and also... because I'm sure someone will comment on the sanctum wear... it was fixed per below
Sanctum-AsReceived-SandedEpoxied-Airbrushed-DecaledMylared (resized).jpg

#6707 5 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Does anyone have a plastics set for The Shadow?

planetary pinball

#6708 5 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

planetary pinball

I was hoping to find a used or a partial set that someone was no longer needing.

#6709 5 months ago

Does anyone have any cliffys for The Shadow or have a lead on where I could get them?

#6710 5 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Does anyone have a plastics set for The Shadow?

I have a partial used set.

#6711 5 months ago

Is anyone selling plastic protectors for just the slings?

#6712 5 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Does anyone have any cliffys for The Shadow or have a lead on where I could get them?

I dont think they exist.

#6713 5 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Does anyone have a plastics set for The Shadow?

https://www.pinball.center/en/

Pinball Center in Germany. Someone is also parting out some used plastics on eBay.

#6714 5 months ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

https://www.pinball.center/en/
Pinball Center in Germany. Someone is also parting out some used plastics on eBay.

their plastic sets are pretty crappy too.

#6715 5 months ago

I can’t seem to find the switch orientation on the yellow target mech to the upper playfield. I’ve had the switch off for months waiting for the parts to finish it and am stuck. Here are a few pics. Any help would be appreciated.

BCC3FAFA-7AA2-40B6-A506-6F40C99D10AA (resized).jpegCB5423E8-4521-4E3C-AB3C-CD7829AFAC78 (resized).jpeg
#6716 5 months ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I can’t seem to find the switch orientation on the yellow target mech to the upper playfield. I’ve had the switch off for months waiting for the parts to finish it and am stuck. Here are a few pics. Any help would be appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image]

That's not the original switch actuator arm - but will work assuming it's long enough to make contact with the plastic drop target. The picture is from the drop target on T2 (hence the black target) but it's the same assembly. Also in the 2nd image item 24 is a plastic guide (red arrow points to it as well), this was used to ensure that the actuator arm remained under the plastic tab of the drop target and didn't get pushed to the side. While not shown in the picture the components that were screwed to the switch bracket are - plastic guide (03-8630), switch, insulator (01-8600) and then the bracket it self.

Drop target assembly (resized).jpgPlastic Guide (resized).JPG
#6717 5 months ago

Does anyone have an extra right sling plastic?

#6719 5 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

That's not the original switch actuator arm - but will work assuming it's long enough to make contact with the plastic drop target. The picture is from the drop target on T2 (hence the black target) but it's the same assembly. Also in the 2nd image item 24 is a plastic guide (red arrow points to it as well), this was used to ensure that the actuator arm remained under the plastic tab of the drop target and didn't get pushed to the side. While not shown in the picture the components that were screwed to the switch bracket are - plastic guide (03-8630), switch, insulator (01-8600) and then the bracket it self.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks Manny. That is what I had when I started so it did work before. Whoever worked on it jimmied some screws and such to hold the switch on and I needed to pick up the correct screws. I looked in the Shadow manual and couldn’t find that diagram in there. I’ll check it out when I get home and see if I can get it done.

#6720 5 months ago
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#6721 5 months ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

Thanks Manny. That is what I had when I started so it did work before. Whoever worked on it jimmied some screws and such to hold the switch on and I needed to pick up the correct screws. I looked in the Shadow manual and couldn’t find that diagram in there. I’ll check it out when I get home and see if I can get it done.

Yep they missed the diagram in the manual - fortunately the single drop target is used in a few other machines (IJ, JM, NF, STTNG, T2) so leveraged the diagram from one of them

#6722 5 months ago

I made a seperate topic, and then realized I might have more chance of a solution in here?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/please-help-short-switch-on-the-shadow#post-5470735

#6723 5 months ago

So is there anyone who can reliably re-plate or "re-brass" the wireforms at a reasonable price? Some of the prices I've seen are only a few bucks less than buying the whole wireform new...there must be someone more reasonable?

#6724 5 months ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

So is there anyone who can reliably re-plate or "re-brass" the wireforms at a reasonable price? Some of the prices I've seen are only a few bucks less than buying the whole wireform new...there must be someone more reasonable?

The problem is there are only a few places left in the united states that still do brass plating with clear coat.

#6725 5 months ago

Was the original clear coated? I'm guessing no from the fact that they deteriorated over the years, but this is just HUO...will the plating just break off w/o clear?

#6726 5 months ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

So is there anyone who can reliably re-plate or "re-brass" the wireforms at a reasonable price? Some of the prices I've seen are only a few bucks less than buying the whole wireform new...there must be someone more reasonable?

What is price you are seeing? And where can you still buy new wireforms? I am interested too.

#6727 5 months ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Was the original clear coated? I'm guessing no from the fact that they deteriorated over the years, but this is just HUO...will the plating just break off w/o clear?

i am not sure about the original. If the brass plating is not clear coated it will just turn brown in a matter of weeks.

#6728 5 months ago

Learned how to powder coat at the local maker space. Gloss gunmetal plus Art's maple grips! Next up is rails and legs... Torn between metallic purple metallic blue or just gloss black

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#6729 5 months ago

just powdercoat them. much cheaper.

#6731 5 months ago

Anyone in this club in on a Rick and Morty? This will be my second game, to go next to my Shadow.

#6732 5 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

Learned how to powder coat at the local maker space. Gloss gunmetal plus Art's maple grips! Next up is rails and legs... Torn between metallic purple metallic blue or just gloss black[quoted image]

I did gloss black with purple metallic flake. Looks incredible.

#6733 4 months ago

I am still looking for a partial plastics set if anyone has extras or a lead on some (there are about 4-5 that I need). Please pm me

#6734 4 months ago

Looking for help rebuilding the battlefield. I've purchased a new motor, bracket, and the pinion gear. Have no idea as far as the steps involved in getting it all together. Any help or input would be appreciated.

Mike

#6735 4 months ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

Looking for help rebuilding the battlefield. I've purchased a new motor, bracket, and the pinion gear. Have no idea as far as the steps involved in getting it all together. Any help or input would be appreciated.
Mike

Download the repair kit instructions PDF from IPDB.org. That should show most, if not all, of what you need.
Full manual is also on there if you don't already have it.

#6736 4 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

just powdercoat them. much cheaper.

What kind of powder coat looks like the original brass though?

I had seen this before. Way overpriced. The price is almost the same as what the wireforms cost new.

#6737 4 months ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

I had seen this before. Way overpriced. The price is almost the same as what the wireforms cost new.

Their pricing is rather high, but the results are awesome.

I wouldn't even think of powder coating the wire forms on this game as I haven't seen any that look good. The brass is where it is at!

#6738 4 months ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Their pricing is rather high, but the results are awesome.
I wouldn't even think of powder coating the wire forms on this game as I haven't seen any that look good. The brass is where it is at!

Right? Seems abot $150 over what Id expect to pay. You think it would be cheaper with the swapping...

#6739 4 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Right? Seems abot $150 over what Id expect to pay. You think it would be cheaper with the swapping...

that is the swap price

#6740 4 months ago

I used to offer this service. You send your wireforms in and he sends you a set that is redone. The brass does look amazing and they clear coated so will hold up in home environment for a long time.

#6741 4 months ago

Does anyone have a 3D model of the phurba dagger? I'm missing one and can't seem to find it for sale anywhere so I guess 3d printing is the only option for now.

#6742 4 months ago

Was trying a different soundboard last night and for some reason a fuse blew (see attached photo). This impacted the power to the ball trough, the flippers and the diverters. Is this possible or likely the issues are not connected? Kind of paranoid to try the other SB again as I don’t want to chance messing up the game. Thanks for the help!

E3C37A7B-3525-4E18-92DE-5EEE79410CEE (resized).png
#6743 4 months ago
Quoted from zezami:

Does anyone have a 3D model of the phurba dagger? I'm missing one and can't seem to find it for sale anywhere so I guess 3d printing is the only option for now.

I don't know of a 3D model, but if you want to buy one you might try one of these places:

https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=179

https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Game-Specific/Bally/The-Shadow/The-Shadow---Phurba-Dagger---gold-colored.html?language=en

https://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/Shadow_Page.html

#6744 4 months ago

Bought an entire diverter from a guy in Australia. Got some good parts off it but the shaft of the diverter was cut. Fixable or juck?

20200219_173929 (resized).jpg20200219_173932 (resized).jpg
#6745 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Bought an entire diverter from a guy in Australia. Got some good parts off it but the shaft of the diverter was cut. Fixable or juck?[quoted image][quoted image]

do you know a good welding/machine shop?

#6746 4 months ago
Quoted from Aurich:

If anyone is looking for my translite I'm gonna do a small run, just shoot me a PM. As always these days, every time I do one I say it might be the last, but we'll see.
[quoted image]

Does anyone have an aurich speaker panel for sale or know where I can get one?

Pic for reference:

Screenshot_20200220-121942 (resized).png
#6747 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Bought an entire diverter from a guy in Australia. Got some good parts off it but the shaft of the diverter was cut. Fixable or juck?[quoted image][quoted image]

Should be fixable. I'll buy if you junk it and practice welding.

#6748 4 months ago

Anyone have glare issues sometimes affecting the battle field kicker? The ball sometimes rests on the kicker on the left side for a bit till the opto kicks in. I didn't have a ton of time to diagnose before heading out of town. Plays great with glass off. Optos register fine in switch test. Actually played fine last night. I pulled the battlefield out to clean the drop targets. I have pinstadium lights I made installed but I've done this on four shadows with no issue. For good measure I covered the lights with tape behind the opto. Thinking this is an easy fix, just wanted to have some ideas lined up for when I get back on Saturday. Wanted to make mechanical adjustments before possibly buying a 24 opto board for under playfield.

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#6749 4 months ago

FYI, just finished clearing playfield including battlefield. Want it to play perfectly. It is so fast.

#6750 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Anyone have glare issues sometimes affecting the battle field kicker? The ball sometimes rests on the kicker on the left side for a bit till the opto kicks in. I didn't have a ton of time to diagnose before heading out of town. Plays great with glass off. Optos register fine in switch test. Actually played fine last night. I pulled the battlefield out to clean the drop targets. I have pinstadium lights I made installed but I've done this on four shadows with no issue. For good measure I covered the lights with tape behind the opto. Thinking this is an easy fix, just wanted to have some ideas lined up for when I get back on Saturday. Wanted to make mechanical adjustments before possibly buying a 24 opto board for under playfield.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I had this issue when I used invisiglass (could be a coincidence)... I think the opto doesn't realize the beam is broken (maybe due to reflection). What I did to fix was to put some black heat shrink tubing in the holes in front of the opto, so the beam goes straight. It's worth a shot.

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There are 7313 posts in this topic. You are on page 135 of 147.

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