Every pin needs to be adjusted in some way, and I never found anything in the manual about an OEM position, just standard pics of the shot map. There are no adjustment holes for it obviously - People adjust flippers in different ways (most can't even agree on using the hole or lining up with the guides, and some games seem to have a slight droop)

To me it makes no sense having a clunky side shot coupled with a clunky mode shot , and since making this adjustment there is no denying the game feels like it was meant to be set this way - holding the flipper feeds the ball to start a mode - almost like you need to hold up the left upper flipper on TZ to hit the camera.

I just want the game to play the best it can, there is no reason to make the game less enjoyable or play worse over it, but I encourage people to try it at least.
Maybe someone can hit up Brian Eddy over at stern to get his take

I just watched the Shadow promo video one Youtube. Here is an image of the upper flipper from the video. Definitely doesn't look flat against the metal rail but the tip of the flipper sits a little lower than flush to the plastic above the flipper. One would assume this is how Brian E designed it if this was the game used to shoot this video for the game's release

Edit: I just looked closer at my game. The flipper in the video may in fact be sitting flat against the metal ballguide.
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What is the OEM location? Right up against the metal?

I put mine against the rail. Makes game so much more fun.

My shadow went off to the pinball doctor today. Replacing both playfield with CPR gold playfields

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How do you keep track of putting everything back, and in backwards order? Have to be very organized to take on this task. I get lost replacing a rubber

You don't have to remove everything to clear a playfield. Everything on top comes off and some bottom pieces. I just did my I500 and Congo. I will always clear playfields on my keepers going forward.

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This makes the Khan shot too easy.

The super jackpot is a gimme this way, plus starting modes is no challenge either.

Shadow is one of my favorite games because of the brutal challenge.

Not bent out into the middle of the playfield!

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Again, here is the pic of the flipper at rest - it's not bent out into the middle of the playfield (maybe you were looking at the held pic)

Either way it's subjective, are you guys seriously saying you don't modify anything on your machines because you want it OEM, or are you saying you want to change whatever you want but JUST the flippers need to stay? By that logic, anything that isn't set the way it was out of box, built by B/W, and has parity with the flyer is therefore wrong.

Shadow is too easy with default flipper orientation and you want to swap in lightnings or droop em further? - Wrong, sell the game, it's not OEM and you've made it too hard.

Different rubbers from OEM? - Wrong

Extended swtich arm or bracket mod? - Wrong

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I just like the action of it being "part of the orbit" and is how I always set my games with an upper flipper. Left orbit shot = right flipper return. You do you.

Yep pretty much, everyone will set the game how they wish (which was my point i guess)
Either way, all I was trying to show was that the game flows and plays so much better this way, it wasn't about making it easier (even though I can concede that it does) but you still have to shoot an orbit and have it bounce/flow into the kahn hole regardless, a hell of a lot harder than shooting a scoop hole on most games to start a mode. It's not like it makes this game a breeze.

The game is even easier too if you move the posts lower to make the outlines smaller, and increase the angle of lower flippers.

yeah def not correct

If nobody how they came from the factory then there is no wrong anser no? I doubt that every flipper could have been installed in the same exact position so if there was a particular position in the specs, it would need to be flush against the metal. But even then, not all mounting holes in the guides were in the same exact spot.
And I would not consider that cheating. If the machine was used in some sort of competition, all players would benefit from easier shot.

My flipper gap is much smaller and I still make that orbit to scoop shot on clean shots. Yours does look really far out compared to literally any other Shadow ive seen. If anything, I find most are just back as far as they go and the orbit to scoop is nigh impossible. It would be nice if the upper flipper had one of the little holes to go off of.
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I am trying to find these silver washer things, anyone know a source? or what they are called?

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It’s a button washer.

The Hillman Group 2906 Number-8 Stainless Steel Finish Washer, 40-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYLZZMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TEJjEbKSZ23W3

have them at most true value hardware stores

all the holes in the guides should be in the same place, there is a template when drilling..... and this big gap from back of flipper to the guide is def not correct. we're not talking cunt hairs here, we're talking centimeters.

thank you

a playfield replacement is too intimidating a task for me to take on, so it is going off to the pinball technician. It's going to be an expensive venture all up, but this is my only pin - so I want it to look and play great for years to come.

Count me in...
Great game to be honest, still need to swap those flipper bats, maybe blue with yellow rubbers.

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Be sure to add a resistor inline with one of the leads. I can't remember, but I believe the original lamp operates on 12 volts, so if you run full current to a standard LED, you'll burn it out in a hurry.

A series resistor, about 10K, will keep it alive.

To each his own, but I think pinstadiums really ruin the lighting of this game.

You think it looks too purple? I’ve never added pinstadium to a game but curious on people’s thoughts

You can control the color and the dim of it... you have a lot of options on the table.
I think is one of the best machines to have it, just my 2cents

In my opinion it washes out a lot of the contrast in the playfield, and casts a change in the color that is not complementary to the artwork. And the striping effect on all of the reflective parts, especially the metal wire forms.

I use Pinstadium and think it works well on Shadow. I have mine set up with a dim warm white, and I find that it works well and compliments the artwork.

Warm white GI is by far the best scheme on this machine, so that makes sense.

Pinside I need your help.
My sanctum wall assembly is busted.
I need #A-18752 and the only onlineshop I can find is Marco......but he charges 50 euro shipping costs.

Does anybody know another site that has these in stock?
Or is there perhaps a club member that has a spare their willing to sell?

Thanks in advance.

Agree. Pinstadium is for streaming on twitch, not for regular play. It totally ruins the ambience for me.

The battlefield is the only thing that needs additional lighting in this game for the most part. Its pretty well lit and you an see everything pretty well.

There is someone parting out a shadow on Ebay, Netherland...did you send them a message?

How about the Amigos? They get packages all the time from US to save up on shipping?

Fixed my sanctum by airbrush. Clearing playfield today.

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Nice job matching the color!

Awesome. Looks like is wasn't damaged too badly to begin with thankfully.

Fortunately it wasn't.

You guys like virgin sanctums?

Nah...I like sanctimonious virgins!

Any advice on adjusting the 3rd ball lock switch or magnetic throwing power? Balls 1 and 2 lock fine and sit correctly on their switches. Ball 3 gets thrown back, hits ball 2 and then bounces back past its switch and just sits directly behind the 3rd switch. A little shake gets it to roll over the switch and register. If the magnet would throw it back softer then the ball wouldn’t bounce back as far. If the switch was more of a curved roll over then the straight up angled wire it currently is then the ball would probably roll back over it.

Can someone tell me where the 2 circled plastics are installed? I was replacing them yesterday but could find where either is installed.

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The one with "The Shadow" is a key chain plastic...

I think at least one of the others goes around the inner loop under the upper playfield that is prone to break (maybe some extras?)

Thanks, I must have missed it. I had the battlefield up and didn't see it but I'll look closer.

Yeah the inner loop under the battle field. I could use one of those extras if you wouldn't mind shipping it out to me. I'd be happy to pay for it.

Guys, anyone have a problem with the mode start/extra ball hole? Problem is that sometimes the mech is just not strong enough to push the ball out.

It happens every other game or so. Ball registers the switch, but the solenoid / plunger just taps the ball without enough strength to get it out. I have to turn off game, take glass off, etc.

I can clean and rebuild the mech with new coil sleeve, but wanted to start here to see if this is a common problem?

I joined the club today! Pics coming!

Not a common problem that I've heard of. I'd firstly check the alignment of the plunger to ensure that it is striking the seated ball cleanly (maybe the bracket has came loose etc), if that is ok then clean/rebuild the eject mech (A-15368).