My Shadow uses clear rubbers. I have many photos of it in this thread, just search for my posts.

I was just admiring both of your games, jonesjb and tilt monster. I’m definitely going clear with blue flipper rubber.
Also are those uv in the center inserts?

Passion purple 2 SMDs from Comet Pinball.

My current setup
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I lit every star post (which doesn't show in one of the pics) and removed the stock GI bulbs (pointless to have both). Sunlight GI and pinstadium (sunlight)

That stupid sanctum sticker still drives me nuts. I have been clearing all my playfields recently and will most likely swap out this playfield with a better and clear.

Warm white just looks better for orange/yellow inserts. I would avoid putting color bulbs in the gi since it does wash out artwork and change color tones.

I did a visual breakdown experiment of different star post and star post light combinations. Earlier in this thread.

Cool. Unless the color contrasts too much I only use light blue. They are the best color star post made. My buddy and I always buy them. I think we just cleared out mad amusement of their stock. They only come on star wars I believe but they are the best. My WW, I500, F14, has them. Doing a Congo next but that color doesn't suit the game. I am in hoarding mode now as I don't know when they will be back in stock. I removed the red trough light on WW. Didn't like.
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I use clear on all my games....keeps inventory holding costs down....No need to buy 1 orange when it breaks, or stock multiple color replacements.
2 SMD Sunlight, Purple Passion.....Crappy pics I took up there as well....Run the topic photo gallery link.

The black flippers look great!

Thank you!

hello , i have a slight problem with mine : the popper for the mini playfield doesnt eject the ball as it should : sometimes it works fine, sometime the ball doesnt get high enough and falls down again. This repeats several times until the ball manadges to get high enough and gets up to the mini playfield. Any ideas ? thanks alot

Check the coil bracket hasn’t come loose, try manually moving the coil plunger if it’s doesn’t move freely you may need to swap the coil sleeve (check the coil stop at the same time), on the head of the plunger is a cap to cradle the ball check that it isn’t getting caught on anything and is still attached to the plunger

Hey Guys,

I have just open my Shadow that has not been used in a few years.. before storing the game would turn off on both or one flipper would be engaged. Some suggested it was a rectifier of which I do not where or what this is. Now the machine will not even start up. Board have steady red light on and some buzzing from the sound..

Any help out there?

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It is a good chance that your power / driver board needs rebuilt. That is the largest board in the backbox. You are correct, It could be a bad bridge rectifier. Those are the 3 square things on that board. It is also likely the capacitors need replaced on that same board. It is an advanced repair. If you're not comfortable, I would recommend sending it in for repair. Before you do that, swap the board with the one in your Indy 500 to prove that is the problem child. Knowing what board is bad is half the battle. Fixing it yourself is about $20 in parts. Sending it in for repair is around $150 and replacing it with a modern replacement is around $300. I use the Coin Op Caldron for my board repairs.

On my Shadow all the head lights in the back box are out. I don’t have a manual just wondered what connector is responsible for these lights? Not seeing any burnt connectors either..

I checked all the GI fuses and they are good.

Fixed, just was a loose connection.. lol

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You can download the manual for free. You can just save the PDF or even print a hard copy. You'll need it eventually.

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2528/Manual_Bally_1994_The_Shadow.pdf

Looking for a front cabinet decal, anyone have one?

Hey there fellow "Shadowist"--I am looking to get my game back together as It will not start--all board led are lit with no flashing. Upon moving the game, sometimes the game would shut down at flipper engagements.. I was told it was issues with a rectifier of which I do not know what this is?

Can anyone help on this topic and walk me through a series of test to find the issues.. Also looking to LED install in the ready that I am eager to get started on but need to the game to be operational.. This is my keeper!

Warm Regards,

Fly-(Jeffrey)

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Hey guys, I noticed I started a thread earlier and mad dog answered some good advise ... Keep them coming please.. Any way to test the board with an Addam family board? Indy is in another location, but could to that in a pinch..

I am pretty handy and can learn to board solder, I have the skill and the tools just have never done and happy to learn.

Top led should be off after bootup. The middle one should be flashing. The bottom should stay on. Here is info I found online:

D19 – Blanking,
D20 – Diagnostic
D21 – +5VDC

D19 – At game turn on, this should be on for appx 3 seconds, then should go out AND STAY OUT! This indicates that the blanking circuit is disabled and therefore the machine cannot energise solenoids etc.
D20 – After D19 has gone out, this should stay flashing permanently while the game is on. This indicates (when flashing continuously that the CPU is running)
D21 – This should always be on. This indicates that the 5VDC power is on the CPU board.

Not sure what it means if top two stay on. Wouldn't hurt to reseat ribbon cables and check all fuses. You do have a burnt connector on J120 but believe that is part of your gi. You have any bulbs out?

The "shut down at flipper engagements" is a reset issue common on wpc games. There was a good website to step through diagnostics for this issue but forget what it was. If anything, you can send the boards out for service.

I'd suggest working on why the MPU status LEDs aren't correct (the reset issue associated with the flippers can be looked at later). First thing would be to reseat your connectors (with the machine turned off) - the ribbon cable connections on all boards in the backbox, as well as connectors J101, J102, J114 on the power driver board and J210 on the MPU board.

I also noticed that LED2 on the Power Driver Board is off (but should be on).

Hey Guys,

You are great, it is true~~~All pinball people are the best in helping each other...

Ok, now to get to work and will get back to you. Thank for the first step guidanceances..

Hey Guys,

All good news, machine is working well.. Thanks to you and the suggestions--loose wire and some fuses to be checked.. Now going into the full LED transformation. I have been waiting for 5 years now to get this done!

Help to have a few new kids to help and enjoy with motivation to boot!

did check : I totally dissambled the popper assembly . everything's fine... coil is correct one also. any other ideas ?

FOUND : the j-107 connector didnt work fine ! Cleanded it with contact spray and now it's fine !

Try taking a slow motion video with your phone when the vuk is trying to kick the ball up onto the mini-PF - this may give you a clue as to what is happening. For example maybe the wireform and vuk are misaligned so the ball is losing momentum hitting, rattling or dragging on the wireform

I’m in the club. As is, it’s in great shape. But, I plan a full restore. CPR Playfield swap and new Mantis ramps. Anything else you all recommend I do? Any place in US for replating wire frames?

Thanks,
Stan

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Swap games with me before you do all that work.

On a serious note, see if Grumpy is still selling his mini-playfield light mod. It's cool and useful.

The wood gun grips are nice.

Where can I get the wood grain grip?

Thanks,
Stan

Who sells the what now? Do you have a link?

Also that game looks very nice. Why even bother doing all that to it? Just play it. Plenty of time for that later. Boggles my mind when people have nice playable games and are like “planning on dropping 2k+ into it” right away. I get it if its a beater, but not a nice looking player.

Right. Games looks fantastic in those pics. Is there something wrong with the playfield? Why replace playfield, ramps, and parts and struggle to get everything playing right if everything is good from the start? If the sanctum has heavy wear, I would just focus on fixing that area and save money for another game. It's going to cost thousands and still not be worth much more than a nice player Shadow.

Go back to post #3357 and you will see what RCA1 is talking about.

Here's the video you posted of it in action:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/72#post-3623572

Oh ya, nice. Id be in. GRUMPY ?

Genius, very nice mod... interested.

Yep, I'm crazy! As you can see, I only have 4 pins (the "hole" is for GOTG premium coming next week). I've played and owned most of the top pins and even in this line up, I like Shadow the best. I also like to restore pins. So, yes, I plan to add $1.5-2K to make this a beauty. I have already ordered CPR playfield/plastics/mini-playfield. That cost $900. Mantis ramps, another $150ish. Got Phurba Dagger pair from Little Shop of Games for $35. And, as I restore, I will rebuild all mechs. Half the fun in this hobby, at least for me, is fixing them. But, I do play a lot as well.

I can still make these if you like one. PM me if you do.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/98#post-4616971

You guys with the grumpy mod, how many seconds delay did you do and do you still like it that amount of time or would you change it?

Any pics of the Comet lights you used?

Thx!!

Really? You guys were all about telling me about this and now no one will share theirs? Lol

The Shadow (character) has pearl or ivory inlay grips on his guns. I like the look of the wood ones but it would bother the comic fan in me.

I am interested in one of these as well
.

Hit up GRUMPY bro, im all setup. Hes a good dude.

HI,

Was there a guide here somewhere how to light up the battlefield with an LED - Strip only when the Battlefield is active ? Been looking but am a bit lost..

Thanks
Matt

Bro, weve literally just had this convo. Ive already ordered. Look up at the last few posts. Theres a video, and info from others.

Hangup problem is still around after adjusting the plastic in the bottom side of the ramp. I am thinking the ball is supposed to roll differently off the clear plastic above the ramp? My plastic is straight, should it be angled somehow/is the ball supposed to drop from the battlefield to the wireform?

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@zrbrt

When I was fixing my magnet area I removed everything from topside and took some pictures. Here's what the plastic looked like on mine.
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and FYI: I rarely (maybe never??) have the ball drop down and then end up on the ramp. Usually falls into the left orbit.

Wow! Ym g

Hmmmm...so weird that my ball got hung up there the other night too. Im not sure if it was the plastic or not, Ill look closer if it happens again. I had to shake the crap out of the game to get it loose.