(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,214 posts
  • 579 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Demoman1
  • Topic is favorited by 205 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,973 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_0792~photo (resized).JPG
IMG_0798~photo (resized).JPG
IMG_0781~photo (resized).JPG
20200531_104804 (resized).jpg
20200531_104750 (resized).jpg
20200531_104741 (resized).jpg
20200531_104813 (resized).jpg
20200531_104820 (resized).jpg
20200531_104831 (resized).jpg
8EA2395D-36C3-49F0-B095-2EE0F6BB5726 (resized).jpeg
84862DA1-36AA-49FF-9750-29D94DBDB37E (resized).jpeg
package.jpg
20200520_054629 (resized).jpg
20200519_121217 (resized).jpg
20200519_121211 (resized).jpg
20200510_113005 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 7214 posts in this topic. You are on page 131 of 145.
#6501 6 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

It's not a flawed solution. It is the best solution. People didn't start building these just because. I too had the switch extender, the issue is a very weak shot that barely makes the ramp doesn't have the momentum to roll past the switch, it hits it, rolls back and stops at the ramp. You have to that keep hitting the diverter button in hopes to get the ball rolling but that often won't work as the diverter doesn't hit the ball directly. It sort of just pushes it like you were slapping the side of the cab and rarely works. You then have to pull the glass. With the switch further down the line the ball has enough momentum to get passed the switch as long as you have it properly adjusted. Trust me, I wish you didn't have to have the extender and I'm sure every game is different but the three shadows I had all had this issue.
No offense, but your solution is the worst of the three because you switch isn't extended as long as the one you can buy and it doesn't even clear the wireform. With a enough momentum the ball rides up the ramp and up on the top of the wire form and launches clear over the switch. Especially if you have strong flippers. I noticed with the mantis ramps this is even more prevalent because I believe they are tad steeper. At least the ones I had were and I switched back to the originals and it remedied a lot of the ball flight issue.

agree with this. I installed my switch extender, not the switch arm, and it works 100% of the time and is nearly invisible when playing. Not sure why it would be considered flawed. As for the switch arm extender, it is more visible and looks a bit odd. the original design is horrible, its just too close to where the ball makes the sharp and fast turn. All that matters really is what solution works for the individual. If the switch actuator extender works 100% of the time and people are happy with that solution, that's what you are after. I am very happy with my switch extender as it works 100% of the time and not having that switch register was a huge frustration. for $12 and 5 minutes with nothing more than a small screwdriver, you really can't go wrong with the extender.

https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fshadow-left-ramp-switch-bracket

#6502 6 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

You aren't reading my post. It isn't far enough down the wireform and it can cause the ball to roll back and rest were the wireform joins the ramp. You have to then remove the glass and push the ball down the wireform.
Og switch < longer switch blade < switch extender < switch extender WITH longer switch blade.
In all honesty they should have put the switch on the other side of the playfield where the wire form curves down to the inlane and put it under the wireform like the left diverter. I thought about doing this.

I am, there is an even longer one.

#6503 6 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I am, there is an even longer one.

Longer than the 4" one? have a link?

#6504 6 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

You aren't reading my post. It isn't far enough down the wireform and it can cause the ball to roll back and rest were the wireform joins the ramp. You have to then remove the glass and push the ball down the wireform.
Og switch < longer switch blade < switch extender < switch extender WITH longer switch blade.
In all honesty they should have put the switch on the other side of the playfield where the wire form curves down to the inlane and put it under the wireform like the left diverter. I thought about doing this.

Dead wrong. You didn't adjust the extension properly if you had that issue. I've seen this on several machines, and all work fine. Mine has never missed a switch read in over two years, and I play the shit out of my shadow. It's about physics and the extension arm is easier, a DIY that takes maybe 20 mins, and doesn't involve moving the switch to a place where it blocks part of the pf. If buying plastic and moving a switch is your fix, fine. Many others are using it and selling the plastic fixes. Fine. That doesn't mean it's the best solution though.

#6505 5 months ago

All games are different. I used to get ball hangs with the original actuator arm and moved to using 3-4" straight arm. This works 90% of the time, but sometimes a fast shot won't register and I suspect that the ball is going over the top of the switch as @rotodave showed in a slow-mo video dome time ago. So going to try using a switch extender. The best solution is the one that works for your game

#6506 5 months ago

Can someone with a zero issue game post pics of switch edge test on the DMD with and without coin door shut please? I’ve got this m-fking short in my game that has reared its ugly head and I finally have time to address over the holiday season...

#6507 5 months ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

Can someone with a zero issue game post pics of switch edge test on the DMD with and without coin door shut please? I’ve got this m-fking short in my game that has reared its ugly head and I finally have time to address over the holiday season...

As requested:

20191207_171446 (resized).jpg
#6508 5 months ago

Thank you! Looks like I’ve got a couple of opto issues

9585A586-ABF3-40DF-9C45-D87EECF62F76.jpeg
#6509 5 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

All games are different. I used to get ball hangs with the original actuator arm and moved to using 3-4" straight arm. This works 90% of the time, but sometimes a fast shot won't register and I suspect that the ball is going over the top of the switch as @rotodave showed in a slow-mo video dome time ago. So going to try using a switch extender. The best solution is the one that works for your game

They are different, and they are all adjustable. As I said, I've seen this fix on several machines. That's how I learned about it for mine. I can't see how it couldn't work on all of them. If it doesn't, you probably need to adjust your wireform. Either way, if the other fix is already there, you're good to go.

#6510 5 months ago

Finally. FINALLY fixed an issue (or pair of issues) with my Sanctum wall target. It would go up, but not down. Only very occasionally.

The problem was that the target wall drop-down solenoid became intermittent. Sometimes, I could hear it energize, most times not. It about drove me bat-shit crazy trying to hunt down the intermittent. Checked all the wiring, removed the PC board and checked the driver components. All checked out OK. Replaced the driver transistors as a precaution, even though they checked out OK.

Then I rigged a lamp to the 4-way connector and ran the test. Lamp flashed properly, so the power did make it to the wiring harness connection. But somehow didn't make it to the solenoid. Started double-checking wires and terminals.

Got out the terminal removal tool - and finally found the source of the problem. It was a factory defect on the crimp of the terminal where the stripped wire had been inserted too far in the crimp applicator, causing the crimp to bite thru the insulation instead of the wire. This was done when the harness was originally built:
terminal-crimp (resized).jpg

Replaced the terminal and put it all back together.
Now, it clicks during the test but doesn't always cause the target to drop. WTF? Observing the operation during test mode, I noticed that the 2-piece armature had become loose and was occasionally separating.
armature-loose (resized).jpg

Whacked it with a center punch and staked it in place:
armature-staked (resized).jpg

Problem completely solved now, works properly. Why that armature came apart, I'll never know, but again, back in the Williams factory, it could have been yet another manufacturing defect finally showing up. Weird that two separate issues applied to that simple little solenoid.

#6511 5 months ago

In reference to an earlier post: ball is getting stuck here pretty frequently. Maybe a leveling issue?

20191207_222439 (resized).jpg
#6512 5 months ago
Quoted from Isjack:

In reference to an earlier post: ball is getting stuck here pretty frequently. Maybe a leveling issue?[quoted image]

Oh the ball hang is on the wireform- yes that area of the wire form is quite flat and if the ball doesn’t have any momentum it can hang there on mine. I had this happen when I didn’t have plastics on my ramps and the ball would fly off over the diverter and land on the wireform - but is this happening on yours when the ball comes off the mini-PF? Does the ball come over the top of the black plastic shroud that surrounds the mini-PF? As the shroud is designed to stop the ball’s forward momentum and let it drop down onto the main PF behind the wireform. If the shroud is stopping the ball, it shouldn’t be able to land on the wireform

#6513 5 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Oh the ball hang is on the wireform- yes that area of the wire form is quite flat and if the ball doesn’t have any momentum it can hang there on mine. I had this happen when I didn’t have plastics on my ramps and the ball would fly off over the diverter and land on the wireform - but is this happening on yours when the ball comes off the mini-PF? Does the ball come over the top of the black plastic shroud that surrounds the mini-PF? As the shroud is designed to stop the ball’s forward momentum and let it drop down onto the main PF behind the wireform. If the shroud is stopping the ball, it shouldn’t be able to land on the wireform

It happened when it dropped from the mini-PF the last time, I think it was just the right speed and place for it to happen. It doesn't happen too often, but I've seen it two or three times in the last week, which is a lot more than usual.

#6514 5 months ago
Quoted from Isjack:

It happened when it dropped from the mini-PF the last time, I think it was just the right speed and place for it to happen. It doesn't happen too often, but I've seen it two or three times in the last week, which is a lot more than usual.

The bottom of the front of the shroud is designed to deflect the ball back away from wireform - is the shroud cracked/broken? Even where it is screwed onto the mini-PF? Just wondering whether it’s not sitting exactly in the right position and just opened a slight gap that is normally not there?? Also is the mini-PF sitting down fully (if it’s slightly higher it might allow more of an opening to the wireform). I haven’t seen this before so just trying to think of possible issues ...

#6515 5 months ago
Quoted from Isjack:

In reference to an earlier post: ball is getting stuck here pretty frequently. Maybe a leveling issue?[quoted image]

Thats interesting
. Try adding some washers to raise the right side of the ramp to increase the slope .

#6516 5 months ago

I'll check it out, thanks for the theories!

#6517 5 months ago

You need to adjust this plastic piece . It's causing ball to hang up.

20191208_194048 (resized).jpg
#6518 5 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Finally. FINALLY fixed an issue (or pair of issues) with my Sanctum wall target. It would go up, but not down. Only very occasionally.
The problem was that the target wall drop-down solenoid became intermittent. Sometimes, I could hear it energize, most times not. It about drove me bat-shit crazy trying to hunt down the intermittent. Checked all the wiring, removed the PC board and checked the driver components. All checked out OK. Replaced the driver transistors as a precaution, even though they checked out OK.
Then I rigged a lamp to the 4-way connector and ran the test. Lamp flashed properly, so the power did make it to the wiring harness connection. But somehow didn't make it to the solenoid. Started double-checking wires and terminals.
Got out the terminal removal tool - and finally found the source of the problem. It was a factory defect on the crimp of the terminal where the stripped wire had been inserted too far in the crimp applicator, causing the crimp to bite thru the insulation instead of the wire. This was done when the harness was originally built:
[quoted image]
Replaced the terminal and put it all back together.
Now, it clicks during the test but doesn't always cause the target to drop. WTF? Observing the operation during test mode, I noticed that the 2-piece armature had become loose and was occasionally separating.
[quoted image]
Whacked it with a center punch and staked it in place:
[quoted image]
Problem completely solved now, works properly. Why that armature came apart, I'll never know, but again, back in the Williams factory, it could have been yet another manufacturing defect finally showing up. Weird that two separate issues applied to that simple little solenoid.

Nice work. It took me a long while to get my sanctum 100%. Similar thing where small things caused big problems.

#6519 5 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

You need to adjust this plastic piece . It's causing ball to hang up.[quoted image]

Nicely spotted!!

#6520 5 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

You need to adjust this plastic piece . It's causing ball to hang up.[quoted image]

Thanks DJ!

#6521 5 months ago

Hi gang. Close to joining Shadow club. Wondering if there is a consensus on best backbox side art decals? Thinking about restoring this. Thanks for any leads.

#6522 5 months ago

Plating stuff for my re-furb

shadp (resized).jpgshadp1 (resized).jpgshadp2 (resized).jpg
#6523 5 months ago
Quoted from bartron:

Plating stuff for my re-furb[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I’m not a huge fan of brass but fresh brass on those ball guides looks amazing. I’ve been going back and forth on weather I want to rebrass mine or do black nickel. I have the black nickel plated upper playfield cover that twister made so nickel would match that. I can’t find any decent pictures of one done in nickel though. I’d love to see them when it’s all installed.

#6524 5 months ago
Quoted from bartron:

Plating stuff for my re-furb[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great! Where did you have it done and how much did you pay (if you don't mind sharing)?

#6525 5 months ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I’m not a huge fan of brass but fresh brass on those ball guides looks amazing. I’ve been going back and forth on weather I want to rebrass mine or do black nickel. I have the black nickel plated upper playfield cover that twister made so nickel would match that. I can’t find any decent pictures of one done in nickel though. I’d love to see them when it’s all installed.

They are supposed to be brass. Which look do you want?...

Refined, Art Deco Shadow pulp noir (brass), best accompanied with the Aurich backglass.

OR

Budget, 90's Data East Made-for-TV looking Shadow (black nickel), best accompanied with the original backglass.

#6526 5 months ago

they are Aztec gold plated , so between brass and fully gold plated , hence the cost being cheaper. as for price , the plater normally charges between £20 to £30 per ramp. if you get him on a good day, cheaper. the actual price including the Chrome on the handles was £100 , so $130. on a 2 week turnaround. I was expecting to pay more . Brass plating costs more than this.
they were plated in Crawley , which is in Sussex, England.

#6527 5 months ago

Simple mod for a common failure:

When the ramp welds broke, it occurred to me that a little more support would strengthen the piece, and prevent the welds from breaking. Here is the original plastic:
shadow_original_ramp_guard (resized).jpg

A little brainstorming, I came up with this one:
shadow_modified_ramp_guard-lh (resized).jpg

Simple add-on, but now there are two mounting holes utilized on each side. Keeps the broken ramp together, and prevents the new ramp from breaking. It did the trick.
shadow_new_design_ramp_guard (resized).jpg

#6528 5 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Simple mod for a common failure:
When the ramp welds broke, it occurred to me that a little more support would strengthen the piece, and prevent the welds from breaking. Here is the original plastic:
[quoted image]
A little brainstorming, I came up with this one:
[quoted image]
Simple add-on, but now there are two mounting holes utilized on each side. Keeps the broken ramp together, and prevents the new ramp from breaking. It did the trick.
[quoted image]

Nice!

#6529 5 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Simple mod for a common failure:
When the ramp welds broke, it occurred to me that a little more support would strengthen the piece, and prevent the welds from breaking. Here is the original plastic:
[quoted image]
A little brainstorming, I came up with this one:
[quoted image]
Simple add-on, but now there are two mounting holes utilized on each side. Keeps the broken ramp together, and prevents the new ramp from breaking. It did the trick.
[quoted image]

Maybe extend it a little to help with airballs off the targets.

#6530 5 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

They are supposed to be brass. Which look do you want?...
Refined, Art Deco Shadow pulp noir (brass), best accompanied with the Aurich backglass.
OR
Budget, 90's Data East Made-for-TV looking Shadow (black nickel), best accompanied with the original backglass.

Given the choice, would you rather have the Battlefield cover in brass instead of the black nickel? Seems like everyone has said the redone black nickel cover looks phenomenal.

#6531 5 months ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Given the choice, would you rather have the Battlefield cover in brass instead of the black nickel? Seems like everyone has said the redone black nickel cover looks phenomenal.

Definitely black nickel, it’s about the right balance of contrast and unity, points of focus, and subtly. It’s not all or none.

#6532 5 months ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Given the choice, would you rather have the Battlefield cover in brass instead of the black nickel? Seems like everyone has said the redone black nickel cover looks phenomenal.

It is beautiful and I wouldn't want it done in the brass but that's just me. Having the ramps in brass does not bother me with the black nickel Battlefield cover because it adds some contrast yet it still maintains a stock look but I think it would be interesting to see how black nickel ramps would look with the black nickel cover.

#6533 5 months ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

It is beautiful and I wouldn't want it done in the brass but that's just me. Having the ramps in brass does not bother me with the black nickel Battlefield cover because it adds some contrast yet it still maintains a stock look but I think it would be interesting to see how black nickel ramps would look with the black nickel cover.

I did some black nickel wireforms a few years back for a guy and it looked great. Wish I still had the pic

#6534 5 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

I did some black nickel wireforms a few years back for a guy and it looked great. Wish I still had the pic

Bummer... how well do you think they would hold up?

#6535 5 months ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Bummer... how well do you think they would hold up?

home use, should be good to go.

#6536 5 months ago

Can someone take a picture of the plastic that the ball falls onto under the front left side of the battlefield? Does anyone know if there is a repro available?

#6537 5 months ago

There is nothing special about it. It can be easily made out of a piece of Lexan.

20191215_145917 (resized).jpg20191215_145938 (resized).jpg
#6538 5 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

There is nothing special about it. It can be easily made out of a piece of Lexan.[quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome thank you, I’ll make one up

#6539 5 months ago

My wife floored me by surprising me with this game this morning as an early Xmas gift. I'm pretty psyched. Really one of the nicest looking machines ever made.

One question, which I'm sure has been covered already but this is a big thread -- any recommendations on where to get brass or purple colored legs, lockdown bar, and side rails? The lockdown bar on this is pretty beaten up, and I might as well change everything to match. I see Pinball Life has brass colored legs, but only for Sega/Stern. Would those fit?

#6540 5 months ago
Quoted from VALIS666:

My wife floored me by surprising me with this game this morning as an early Xmas gift. I'm pretty psyched. Really one of the nicest looking machines ever made.
One question, which I'm sure has been covered already but this is a big thread -- any recommendations on where to get brass or purple colored legs, lockdown bar, and side rails? The lockdown bar on this is pretty beaten up, and I might as well change everything to match. I see Pinball Life has brass colored legs, but only for Sega/Stern. Would those fit?

Reach out to me if you want a cityscape decal, I have only a few left ($30).

#6541 5 months ago
Quoted from VALIS666:

My wife floored me by surprising me with this game this morning as an early Xmas gift. I'm pretty psyched. Really one of the nicest looking machines ever made.
One question, which I'm sure has been covered already but this is a big thread -- any recommendations on where to get brass or purple colored legs, lockdown bar, and side rails? The lockdown bar on this is pretty beaten up, and I might as well change everything to match. I see Pinball Life has brass colored legs, but only for Sega/Stern. Would those fit?

Does she have a sister? I usually get socks for Christmas.

-3
#6542 5 months ago

Any fellow Shadow club members get in on a Rick and Morty pin? I was able to order a Blood Sucker Edition in the low 1800’s direct with spooky right when the shop opened.

#6543 5 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Any fellow Shadow club members get in on a Rick and Morty pin? I was able to order a Blood Sucker Edition in the low 1800’s direct with spooky right when the shop opened.

We got one that has order #2027, Im not sure the numbers mean anything. We will see.

#6544 5 months ago

Hi all
I just joined the club and I’m going to be Shopping the game and I’m curious as to what people have done for colored rubbers and LED ideas thanks in advance

#6545 5 months ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

Hi all
I just joined the club and I’m going to be Shopping the game and I’m curious as to what people have done for colored rubbers and LED ideas thanks in advance

I lit all the star posts so went with clear Titan rubbers and a few purple ones. I used cool white leds for the gi but if I had to do it all over again, I would go with sunlight. For inserts, color match except warm white in orange/yellow inserts.

#6546 5 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I lit all the star posts so went with clear Titan rubbers and a few purple ones. I used cool white leds for the gi but if I had to do it all over again, I would go with sunlight. For inserts, color match except warm white in orange/yellow inserts.

Thx, but just curios, why warm white in the orange/yellow instead of orange and yellow?
I’m not planning on lighting the star posts, but was wondering about clear rubbers. Not sure if they will look good with basic color lighting though

#6547 5 months ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

Thx, but just curios, why warm white in the orange/yellow instead of orange and yellow?
I’m not planning on lighting the star posts, but was wondering about clear rubbers. Not sure if they will look good with basic color lighting though

Orange and yellow becomes too dim. Warm white is essentially high chroma yellow.

#6548 5 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Orange and yellow becomes too dim. Warm white is essentially high chroma yellow.

Good to know, thanks

#6549 5 months ago

Does anyone have clear rubbers with out lit posts? I’d love to see how it looks. I’m thinking cool white gi as well.

#6550 5 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Orange and yellow becomes too dim. Warm white is essentially high chroma yellow.

I use color matched 1smd non ghosting in the inserts with varying lens covers and find they work well. I feel the the sunlight and warm white can change the tone of the insert and the same goes for the natural white. Now when we're talking about gi bulbs I'm 100% on board, warm white/sunlight with warm tones and natural white with cool tones.

As for the rubber goes, that's a personal preference but I only use color on the flipper bats, it's trial and error....
playfield lights 1 (resized).jpg

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 27.00
Boards
KAHR.US Circuits
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
Pin Mods
$ 11.00
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 229.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 35.00
Boards
PCB Emporium
There are 7214 posts in this topic. You are on page 131 of 145.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside