Too bad they don’t have a flex version of the fire bulb. Then there’d be no need to drill.

You're right. It's not exactly the same... I believe I:
-Removed one or two more bulbs.
-Added a slow blinker behind the lamp.
-Added the color changing bulbs behind the windows.

I also have mostly warm white in the GI, with some green underneath the plastics under the battlefield to give a glow. a couple of sunlight where my eye deems appropriate. I use frosted wherever possible.

I replaced all of my bulbs in the GI with 2smd from comet but used the frosted lens caps (this is a mix of soft white and natural white), the inserts are all 1smd non ghosting with different caps depending on where I put them (some frosted and some faceted). I didn't follow anyone's guide just did it based on what looked best to me so it's not a direct comparison but maybe it's the GI bulbs that makes it look brighter? Anyway, it looks great, enjoy!
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So here’s a picture of both of the available switch extenders. Please note that the protective film is still on the clear one with the shadow logo engraved. I will not be installing either one of them anytime soon as I have a CPR gold of that I will be using, and I will evaluate them at that point. There is definitely a difference in sizes.

I do like the clearness of the lower one, and I have also enjoyed Lermods products as well. Regardless of whom you use, I’d say that they will both be quality products that will get the job done in moving the switch downstream enough to alleviate any issues.
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Nice cityscape!

lol, thanks! It's a great little mod that fits the theme perfectly!

Are these brackets really necessary? I've owned two different Shadows over the course of 12 years' and my fix was just to install a 4" wire actuator on the switch. It registers 100% of the time over thousands of games and is barely noticeable. I think it's even less noticeable than the plastic switch extender.

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I'm guessing each game is a little different. Mine does not have a big problem with a long switch arm. It did have to spend some time adjusting it to get it right, though. My question is does this switch extension block your view? It seems like you are moving the switch right in the middle so you are looking right at it as a player.

I was thinking about getting an extender because I have a problem where the ball gets stuck in between the switch and the left ramp / right diverter if it barely creeps up the ramp and doesn't roll smoothly through the switch. My thoughts are that adding an extender would help the ball get some momentum on those really slow shots before hitting the switch.

Anybody else have an issue with balls getting stuck there? What did you do?

The switch extender in any fashion is a must in my opinion.
What really sucks though is replacing that switch, from the soldering to the mounting of it.

You don't have to replace the switch itself, just the metal lever arm. It is easily removable from the switch body.

I don’t think it really blocks any view, see pic of ours installed. You really have to look closely to see that it’s there.

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Yep that's true , I meant more in general as mine actually went bad.

The lower one is nice but I didnt understand when the upper one was first posted for sale. It looks like it's DIY and made out of scraps.
I had issues with this switch but after a lot of adjusting it is 100% accurate with maybe one ball hang up per 1000 plays.

Ours was offered prior to the engraved one being offered, check the thread history. But that doesn't really matter, either it seems will solve the underlying problem and both are barely visible during gameplay, and that's what matters most.

Ours is not made out of scraps, it's 3d printed using transparent PLA and was designed by us. It's just the infill you see. It prints in about 40 mins. I'm not going to design it to print for 3 hours and charge $13 shipped. We only are making it to help people fix the issue for a very small nominal fee...but thanks for your criticism, great motivation for wanting to be helpful.

Again, it's pretty much invisible and serves it's functional purpose. We elongated the holes for adjustments to be made on both ends and added a hole to secure the wire with a ziptie. We didn't see anyone offering these so we decided to come up with our own. For $13 shipped, how can you go wrong as it 100% fixes the issue.

I'm aware that you had yours out first. I dont need to check the thread history thanks. It still looks ugly compared to the clear engraved version. Instead of getting all defensive, maybe take the criticism and improve the product.....like the other seller has.

This is why switch extender works, light shot will roll and get stuck with only switch with long arm.
My first shadow I used an extender and long switch arm.... But that's overkill.

Great that's what I need to know

Have you seen one in person? Do you know it looks ugly?

Just installed the Twister metallic black chrome battlefield mod with gold lettering and it looks spectacular. It’s up there with @aurich’s translite as one of the top mods for Shadow. It’s subtlety is what makes it ever so beautiful, and classes up an already well designed pin.

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Here's a pic of mine with the longer wire actuator. This has always worked well for me and may be worth a shot before trying the extender bracket.

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All Gone!

Enjoy this Wonderful Holiday Weekend!

That looks sharp! Very nice.

Thank you. It was a fun Project! 2 Pairs Left!

Already the nicest TS on Pinside just got a bit nicer! Can't wait to install mine. Sitting in a box along with a 100 other pin mods I've been putting off...

I'm having an interesting issue with my shadow. When the sanctum magnet flings the ball into the lock, occasionally a ball will get stuck on one of the switch actuators. I've tried slightly adjusting the position, but it's not helping. I'm thinking about some point in the life of this machine, someone replaced the switches and didn't use the proper actuator shape.

Could someone do me a solid and take a photo of their three switch array behind the sanctum? This is what mine looks like.

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Hello pinsiders, someone have the shadow game blades to print? i can trade with attack from mars or arabian nights, thanks

I had the same problem and spend hours adjusting to just find out at the end that the overhead plastic was too low interfering with the ball. I added a washer to lift it and no more hang ups.

Nice! Mine hangs up some times too...ill look!

Interesting, this could be it!

I remember something was causing mine to hang up and it wasn't the switches after wasting a lot of time with them. It was up near the kicker arm iirc.

Why does every shadow seem to have scraps on the backbox decals? Seems crazy that almost every shadow has this.

Anyone design a flipper topper for the third upper flipper? I have seen the ‘Shadow Knows’ for the main flippers but nothing for the upper flipper. Thanks.

Thesunisshiningbuttheiceisslippery in really small font could work.

Never understood why people waste their time with these types of posts.

I’m a fan of flipper toppers/decals, have on most of my games.

I was commenting on the guy ripping on you with a BS post. I like flipper topper decals as well.

Was a funny picture in my head, sorry I wasted your time and I'm not sure how I was ripping on anybody.

You're the only one ripping on anybody. It was a joke. Lighten up a bit...jeez.

On a lighter note, balls have been getting hung up when the fall off the front of the battlefield on the ramp. Anybody have any fixes? Increase pitch?

There is a plastic that sits behind the ramp to stop ball hangs. Maybe post a picture of where the ball is getting stuck

Plastic is there. Ball gets stuck right by that plastic piece. I'll snap a pic when I can, maybe the plastic isn't angled correctly?

Best I can describe the ball hangups is that they are directly behind the left ramp/diverter mech.

I posted a DIY for this as well. I don't get why people are moving the switch. It is a flawed solution when you can just extend the actuator.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/127#post-5252959

Tech question.

When the ball goes into the upper playfield, and then leaves the upper playfield stays active, if i push the flipper buttons it can be active for a long time. it looks like a a switch 73 is triggering if i push the left or right flipper buttons.

Any thoughts?

It's not a flawed solution. It is the best solution. People didn't start building these just because. I too had the switch extender, the issue is a very weak shot that barely makes the ramp doesn't have the momentum to roll past the switch, it hits it, rolls back and stops at the ramp. You have to that keep hitting the diverter button in hopes to get the ball rolling but that often won't work as the diverter doesn't hit the ball directly. It sort of just pushes it like you were slapping the side of the cab and rarely works. You then have to pull the glass. With the switch further down the line the ball has enough momentum to get passed the switch as long as you have it properly adjusted. Trust me, I wish you didn't have to have the extender and I'm sure every game is different but the three shadows I had all had this issue.

No offense, but your solution is the worst of the three because you switch isn't extended as long as the one you can buy and it doesn't even clear the wireform. With a enough momentum the ball rides up the ramp and up on the top of the wire form and launches clear over the switch. Especially if you have strong flippers. I noticed with the mantis ramps this is even more prevalent because I believe they are tad steeper. At least the ones I had were and I switched back to the originals and it remedied a lot of the ball flight issue.

Get the longer switch extender.

You aren't reading my post. It isn't far enough down the wireform and it can cause the ball to roll back and rest were the wireform joins the ramp. You have to then remove the glass and push the ball down the wireform.

Og switch < longer switch blade < switch extender < switch extender WITH longer switch blade.

In all honesty they should have put the switch on the other side of the playfield where the wire form curves down to the inlane and put it under the wireform like the left diverter. I thought about doing this.

I had issues with my upper playfield on one of my shadows. There is a dedicated PCB under the playfield that controls the opto switch for the battlefield. It is the same PCB that controls the multi-mist ball on BSD. It is only used in these two games. They are notorious for having issues. There is an upgraded board made for this. I think it is about $80. Once i replaced the board my issue were solved.

Mine kicker would fire randomly and battlefield would stay on.

Your opto board is likely toast, very common. You also hear the upper playfield music continuing correct? What's supposed to happen is when the ball leaves the upper playfield, the mode is supposed to end, sensing that nothing has been hit in X number of seconds. Your game is not recognizing that nothing has been hit so it continues the upper playfield. Do you also get any switch/opto errors sometimes? I tried resoldering the old board, redoing the connectors, resoldering wires under the upper playfield and the optos themselves and nothing worked.

Pinball life or marco, forget where I got mine, sells the new board, it's pricey at like $89, but fixes the issue and is more robust. I haven't had a single issue since replacing it.