(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

7 years ago



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  • 579 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Djshakes
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There are 7224 posts in this topic. You are on page 128 of 145.
#6351 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

What is the issue? In case it comes up. Thanks.

The ball flys too fast (and too high) past the switch and the switch doesn’t register consistently. With this kind of a mod, the switch is placed further down the ramp so the ball is more settled and slower by the time it gets to the switch.

#6352 7 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

A fast ball hops over the switch on the left ramp right wire form path causing it not to register (score). This makes “vengeance” and multiple combos very difficult. Moving the switch down the path a couple inches allows the ball to settle down a bit and roll in the wire form where it can be registered far more consistently. Makes a huge difference to your high scores.

Ok, thanks. Probably never realized it may impact my score.

#6353 7 months ago

Does anybody know where I can find part 02-5041-15G Fastener butthead? It’s the piece that the bolt screws into on the gun handle. See pic attached. Thank you.

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#6354 7 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Does anybody know where I can find part 02-5041-15G Fastener butthead?

We have always called these types of fasteners female sex bolts.

#6355 7 months ago

Seems like it should be easy to find buttheads around here.

#6356 7 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Does anybody know where I can find part 02-5041-15G Fastener butthead? It’s the piece that the bolt screws into on the gun handle. See pic attached. Thank you.

I have been looking too. When i bought my shadow it only had a single set. I've tried a lot of different possible replacements but not found anything right. Would be very interested in a good source!

#6357 7 months ago
Quoted from brandsilence:

I have been looking too. When i bought my shadow it only had a single set. I've tried a lot of different possible replacements but not found anything right. Would be very interested in a good source!

McMaster Carr.

#6359 7 months ago

were always used to hold on skateboard rails back in the 80's

#6360 7 months ago

Any idea what size it is? There seems to be a ton of options. Thank you!!!

#6361 7 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Any idea what size it is? There seems to be a ton of options. Thank you!!!

I'm stuck at work till midnight. I can remove one later and get you some measurements.

#6362 7 months ago

Vaguely recalling that someone remade the Battlefield mini playfield shroud (big plastic piece that wraps around the bottom). Can someone put me in touch with that person or site?

#6363 7 months ago

I have an extra one in black flex plastic if you need this style.

cover (resized).jpg
#6364 7 months ago

I had a very strange thing happening on my shadow. I noticed when I would hit the drop target to enter the mini playfield with a solid shot it would trigger the switch and light the right ramp left divert ring. Specifically with a hard shot that would fling the ball up hitting the wire form. The switch (77) on the wireform is above the drop target in the fling path so to speak. Very annoying and I figured I had an issue with my switch matrix. I went through all the tests and tried to get both switches to register in switch test. All functioned properly after 50 or so attempts to see if a bad diode etc was triggering the other switch (77). They are not on the same column or row so I figured it was a mechanical issue. I even replaced the ramp switch entirely. I then pinched the switch blade so it was not loose in case the hits were causing the blade to bounce triggering the switch. This issue didn't happen all the time, only when I had a really strong solid hit in which the drop target would fling the ball up hitting the wire form near the switch on the ramp. I tried to replicate triggering the switch by manually hitting the wireform with the ball, etc. I could not get it to trigger this way. The only way the switch (77) would trigger was if I really tossed it good, again, causing the ball to fling up and bounce off the wire form. I make airball mods for drop targets for Indiana Jones and Tales from the Crypt. I quickly made a prototype and it seemed to remedy the problem. No phantom ramp triggers. If I made officials they would be cut much better and not extend out over the shadow loop. You can barely see it when installed because the battlefield covers it.

Is it my machine or are others having this problem? It is very hard to noticed because it is a fast game and one may just think they made the ramp shot. I could make these (they would look much better) if it is a problem. I don't remember having the issue on my other shadows but maybe I wasn't paying attention. I noticed it because I am absolutely neurotic about my games playing perfectly.

It's a pain in the ass to test. I put my game in switch edges, partially raised playfield and I toss the ball at the drop. Then I manually lift the drop by reaching under the playfield. You can also play without the glass and keep taking shots at the drop target and after it drops send it back up the vux into the battlefield to reset the drop. Try again.

Let me know if your game is acting this way or it is just me.
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#6365 7 months ago

Interesting as I've noticed at times where my right ramp left diverter ring would be lit even though I hadn't made the shot. I haven't investigated where the issue is, so this info has got me intrigued as to if I have the same issue

#6366 7 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Interesting as I've noticed at times where my right ramp left diverter ring would be lit even though I hadn't made the shot. I haven't investigated where the issue is, so this info has got me intrigued as to if I have the same issue

I bet it is. At first I thought maybe the game spotted you are ring with a new ball or something. Maybe a setting? Nope, those pesky drop targets. They wreak havoc on most games. They act like sling shots.

#6367 7 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Any idea what size it is?

These have a security torks bit holding then together. I will have to find my set in the garage later today to remove them and measure.

#6368 7 months ago

Archived after 25 days
414 views
Not sold: Decided to keep game
Mod - For Sale
New “The Shadow alternate translite in excellent condition. Add $15 for shipping ANYWHERE in USA.”
2019-10-05
Howell, MI
39

#6369 7 months ago

Can someone take a picture of their j121 connector on their shadow? I’m blowing f109 over and over, I’ve traced the wire back and removed all of the bulbs and it still blows upon startup. On the connector on j121 I have a white orange on pin 10 where there should have been a white green. But I don’t have a extra white green. The other white orange I have is on j115 pin 4. Any help would be appreciated.

#6370 7 months ago
Quoted from Only68s:

Can someone take a picture of their j121 connector on their shadow? I’m blowing f109 over and over, I’ve traced the wire back and removed all of the bulbs and it still blows upon startup. On the connector on j121 I have a white orange on pin 10 where there should have been a white green. But I don’t have a extra white green. The only white orange I have is on j115 pin 4. Any help would be appreciated.

give me 2 minutes

#6371 7 months ago
Quoted from Only68s:

Can someone take a picture of their j121 connector on their shadow? I’m blowing f109 over and over, I’ve traced the wire back and removed all of the bulbs and it still blows upon startup. On the connector on j121 I have a white orange on pin 10 where there should have been a white green. But I don’t have a extra white green. The other white orange I have is on j115 pin 4. Any help would be appreciated.

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#6372 7 months ago

That’s how mine was originally but the connectors were really crispy so I repinned them and I’m still blowing f109 as soon as I power on. F109 fuse is on white orange but I can’t find anything

#6373 7 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Your J120 looks toasted.

#6374 7 months ago

Why remove the bulbs? That fuse is GI related? Look for sockets touching other components.

#6375 7 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Your J120 looks toasted.

yeah it is, project game that I haven't got around to yet. lol

#6376 7 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Any idea what size it is? There seems to be a ton of options. Thank you!!!

https://www.mcmaster.com/96754A105

#6378 7 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I just modified my wire ramp switch. Couldn't stand it any longer. Clear is the way to go in my opinion. It looks very factory if you shape it nicely. Highly recommended. It makes a big difference to your high scores too. [quoted image]

That’s the nicest looking one I’ve seen. Post a tracing of it?

#6379 7 months ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

That’s the nicest looking one I’ve seen. Post a tracing of it?

Thanks for the compliment. I completely made it up as I went along. The trick is being able to shape Lexan. I use a dremel and metal shaping bits. It seems easy enough to me but I’ve seen a lot of people have trouble with it for some reason. Just take your time. The part is Loctite installed so I’m hesitant to pull it out.

#6380 7 months ago

The magnet test for the sanctum says it is not working properly. Does anyone know where to start to fix it? The brick wall will not retract since the magnet isn’t working. I thought it might be a fuse, but don’t see where in the manual it has a fuse? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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#6381 7 months ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

The magnet test for the sanctum says it is not working properly. Does anyone know where to start to fix it? The brick wall will not retract since the magnet isn’t working. I thought it might be a fuse, but don’t see where in the manual it has a fuse? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]

A bad switch at the wall drop target mech can cause this too no?

#6382 7 months ago

I just installed Pinshakers shaker motor. I cranked up the strength and wow! Super cool. Really makes the pin come to life. You can set shaker to particular flashers or solenoids. Pretty awesome!

#6383 7 months ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

The magnet test for the sanctum says it is not working properly. Does anyone know where to start to fix it? The brick wall will not retract since the magnet isn’t working. I thought it might be a fuse, but don’t see where in the manual it has a fuse? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The magnet is not working or the wall does not work? Test if the wall can rise and drop in the test menu. There are two switches that control the ball lock sequence. The opto detects the ball as it enters the sanctum and triggers the magnet. Make sure it works. The second switch is under the playfield and detects when the wall is in the down position. You need to make sure it is triggered by the wall target itself and nothing else. If the switches work and not the magnet, I would check all fuses and wiring to the magnet.

#6384 7 months ago

Sharing this piece of Shadow art coming up for auction. It’s huge, beautiful and is expected to go for thousands.

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#6385 7 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Sharing this piece of Shadow art coming up for auction. It’s huge, beautiful and is expected to go for thousands.[quoted image]

Thanks, who is the artist and where is the auction?

#6386 7 months ago

That would be some sick ass side art.

#6387 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Thanks, who is the artist and where is the auction?

It’s drawn by Michael Kaluta, one of Shadow’s main illustrators. It’s over four feet tall and is expected to go between $10,000 to $20,000, but I could see it selling for more.

Here is the catalogue. There are a number of other incredible works, from MAD, Shadow, and EC Comics.

https://profilesinhistory.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/A114ComicArtS.pdf

#6388 6 months ago

Hi Everyone. I am cleaning out my pinball stash and have some Shadow playfield plastics for sale. I replaced mine with the CPR plastics so I don’t need these anymore. Willing to sell individual pieces as well, but would prefer to sell all of them. It’s not a compete set, and two of the plastics are broken (pictured). I included a screenshot of the complete set from Marco for comparison. Feel free to PM with any questions. $60 shipped CONUS for everything. Thanks
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#6389 6 months ago

I was putting down my shadow playfield today and this came rattling out. Not up to speed with this playfield yet. Anyone have a suggestion as to where this goes?

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#6390 6 months ago
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#6391 6 months ago
Quoted from MG7322:

Anyone have a suggestion as to where this goes?

Battle field kicker.

#6392 6 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Battle field kicker.

There should should also be a paper insert inside to prevent the wires from shorting against that metal.

#6393 6 months ago

Thank you! Makes sense since I was changing the battlefield opto’s #36 and has it flipped up and down a few times

#6394 6 months ago

What everyone needs to go with their shadow!
Coming up for Auction, expecting around $100K

pasted_image (resized).png
#6395 6 months ago

Need some insight from the shadow lovers.

I put new flasher domes on, and new bulbs. Worked for about a week then blew fuse F111.

I pulled all the sockets out, did not replace them, left them out of the game. Still blows.

I popped connectors J106&J107 off, still blows.

I do NOT have a print manual unfortunately so I dont have the schematics.

Any helps is appreciated.

#6396 6 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Need some insight from the shadow lovers.
I put new flasher domes on, and new bulbs. Worked for about a week then blew fuse F111.
I pulled all the sockets out, did not replace them, left them out of the game. Still blows.
I popped connectors J106&J107 off, still blows.
I do NOT have a print manual unfortunately so I dont have the schematics.
Any helps is appreciated.

You can read the manual online:
http://www.wwyss.ch/Arcades_Manuals/Manuals/Pinball/The_Shadow_Manual.pdf

Sounds like you have a short. Check what is on fuse f111 and inspect those areas.

#6397 6 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

Need some insight from the shadow lovers.
I put new flasher domes on, and new bulbs. Worked for about a week then blew fuse F111.
I pulled all the sockets out, did not replace them, left them out of the game. Still blows.
I popped connectors J106&J107 off, still blows.
I do NOT have a print manual unfortunately so I dont have the schematics.
Any helps is appreciated.

That’s going to be a short somewhere on your flasher string. Don’t forget to also check the flashers in the backbox.

#6398 6 months ago

Anyone have a picture where that bracket goes on the battle field kicker? Even looking at the schematic I cant figure out where it goes. Sorry, I’m sure its simple when I see it...

#6399 6 months ago
Quoted from MG7322:

Anyone have a picture where that bracket goes on the battle field kicker? Even looking at the schematic I cant figure out where it goes. Sorry, I’m sure its simple when I see it...

It covers the lugs of the kicker coil. There is paper insert that goes inside also to keep it from shorting against the metal plate. Every photo I can find online has it missing. If you’re still in a jam PM me with your phone number and I’ll take a photo of mine and send it to you. It is shown on page 2-28 of the online manual in the the lower left drawing.

#6400 6 months ago

Hi guys, I had 25 of these made as I made a run of airball protectors. I'll throw an ad up. $18 shipped. Don't plan on making more unless demand is high, demand is low I'll drop the price. It was more of a novelty to make them and I wanted one in my machine that was engraved.
20191113_073627 (resized).jpg

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