Shadow, The
Bally, 1994Quoted from woody76:I did this also, had about 40 of them made and gVe them away years ago. It worked perfect for bad sanctum areas and I matched the grey pretty close. I just put a couple strips of double sided tape on the back.
Any pics?
I'll probably just patch mine and be done with it. Probably too much hassle to make something.
Quoted from Djshakes:Anyone know if a darker decal is made? This looks so stupid. How could they get the color this wrong. I'm thinking of having some made if this is the best out there.[quoted image]
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/the-shadow-sanctum-overlay-darker-grey.html
Thanks a bunch! If the ones I get don't match I will order this. Looks like relatively cheap to ship from there if I am reading it correctly .
It's also out of stock.
FWIW- Color differences on the grays can be caused by fading. But I do agree, the light one is wayyyy to light color.
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:It's also out of stock.
FWIW- Color differences on the grays can be caused by fading. But I do agree, the light one is wayyyy to light color.
Doh! I didn’t notice it was OOS
Quoted from Jakers:I joined the club last weekend. Great gameplay with the only exception being that hard shots to the left ramp (diverted right) tend to skip the switch or fly off the wireform. Any tips on getting the ball to calm down when entering that area?[quoted image]
Bend the end of the switch out a little and it should help with registering the shot. It's a common issue, the switch is basically mounted too low on the wireforms.
Was the playfield recently waxed? That'll do it until it calms down after being played a bit. Could also raise the pitch of the rear legs. Are those stock ramps or the aftermarket Mantis ramps? Those Mantis ramps have been reported by owners to play very fast and cause fly offs.
Quoted from Lermods:Bend the end of the switch out a little and it should help with registering the shot. It's a common issue, the switch is basically mounted too low on the wireforms.
Adjusting the switch worked for me. Look back at rotordave posts. He fabbed an extension to better position the switch.
I don't want to adjust the switch because that'll cause a slow roller to get stuck. It's happened once already and I'd rather have the ball fly off the wireform versus having to take the glass off. I think I'll try fabricating that extension Rotordave made. Although, I don't see how that extension will help with balls flying off the wireform. Time to experiment...
From what I can tell, it's the original ramp and not the aftermarket Mantis.
Quoted from Jakers:I joined the club last weekend. Great gameplay with the only exception being that hard shots to the left ramp (diverted right) tend to skip the switch or fly off the wireform. Any tips on getting the ball to calm down when entering that area?[quoted image]
This has been discussed multiple times. Search this thread for a post I made regarding positioning the switch further down the wireform using a piece of clear plastic. I do it on every shadow I buy. Reduces it by 95%. You can sort of see it in this picture.
20190930_205342 (resized).jpgI have a switch error on the right ramp entrance. Even though the wiring is in tact I’m assuming it could be an error with the opto itself. My question actually to the group is, does it matter if that shot doesn’t register? All it seems to do is make a noise as the ball enters. The rings are triggered by the “ramp made” switches
Is that correct?
Quoted from allsportdvd:I have a switch error on the right ramp entrance. Even though the wiring is in tact I’m assuming it could be an error with the opto itself. My question actually to the group is, does it matter if that shot doesn’t register? All it seems to do is make a noise as the ball enters. The rings are triggered by the “ramp made” switches
Is that correct?
I have a similar issue on the left, the optos seem to get knocked to be out of alignment. Doesn’t seem to make a lick of difference I could tell.
anyone have a template they used for the plastic to relocate the ramp switch? I can 3d print them in a transparent filament. I'd be willing to make them available on pinside at cost+shipping, around $10 total I'd imagine, but wouldn't know until I can figure out print time. If not, I can try to design one.
Quoted from Lermods:anyone have a template they used for the plastic to relocate the ramp switch? I can 3d print them in a transparent filament. I'd be willing to make them available on pinside at cost+shipping, around $10 total I'd imagine, but wouldn't know until I can figure out print time. If not, I can try to design one.
PLEASE DO THIS! THANKS!
Quoted from Lermods:anyone have a template they used for the plastic to relocate the ramp switch? I can 3d print them in a transparent filament. I'd be willing to make them available on pinside at cost+shipping, around $10 total I'd imagine, but wouldn't know until I can figure out print time. If not, I can try to design one.
I'd buy one!
Quoted from joelbob:PLEASE DO THIS! THANKS!
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:I'd buy one!
I'll get working on this after Expo next week (maybe this weekend if I can find some time). I will offer it via an ad in my pinside shop so pinside gets some money too. I'll post back in this thread when I start making progress. No lists!
Quoted from Lermods:anyone have a template they used for the plastic to relocate the ramp switch? I can 3d print them in a transparent filament. I'd be willing to make them available on pinside at cost+shipping, around $10 total I'd imagine, but wouldn't know until I can figure out print time. If not, I can try to design one.
I don't think there is a template. In fact, I think I'm the only one that does this unless others have copied my design from earlier posts. I just cut a piece of scrap acrylic and drill it. If you make one how about sending me a couple for coming up with the design? If they are laser cut they might look better than my prototypes. I never made them like my airball mods because I didn't think people would want them. Might be a hot item. I recommend adding the long switch blade as well. I'm still waiting for mine to come in the mail.
Quoted from Djshakes:I don't think there is a template. In fact, I think I'm the only one that does this unless others have copied my design from earlier posts. I just cut a piece of scrap acrylic and drill it. If you make one how about sending me a couple for coming up with the design? If they are laser cut they might look better than my prototypes. I never made them like my airball mods because I didn't think people would want them. Might be a hot item. I recommend adding the long switch blade as well. I'm still waiting for mine to come in the mail.
What’s your design? I only saw the one rotordave showed, it’s really hard to see exactly what he did so I’m kind of flying blind. If you want to share your design (you can pm me if you want) I’m happy to send you one or two for free. My 11 year old is learning design and 3D printing so I’m going to let him try to make it, he will keep whatever net proceeds he earns.
Hi everyone,
I have had my Shadow for about 5 years and over the last year I have had it completely restored. I haven't seen it in person yet but will have it home tomorrow so I will set it up over the weekend.
Here is a little video that the restorer made of the machine. Hope you Shadow fans enjoy.
Cheers
Quoted from Lermods:What’s your design? I only saw the one rotordave showed, it’s really hard to see exactly what he did so I’m kind of flying blind. If you want to share your design (you can pm me if you want) I’m happy to send you one or two for free. My 11 year old is learning design and 3D printing so I’m going to let him try to make it, he will keep whatever net proceeds he earns.
See post #5287 of this thread. I believe I posted one even further back but don't have the time to search. I thought you were responding to the post I made with the picture a couple posts up the thread.
Switch extension (resized).jpg
Quoted from MANTO1975:Hi everyone,
I have had my Shadow for about 5 years and over the last year I have had it completely restored. I haven't seen it in person yet but will have it home tomorrow so I will set it up over the weekend.
Here is a little video that the restorer made of the machine. Hope you Shadow fans enjoy.
Cheers
I live in Brisbane too so should come check this out in person lol
On a side note I love the artwork on the bricks behind this machine, where is the restorer?
Quoted from allsportdvd:I live in Brisbane too so should come check this out in person lol
On a side note I love the artwork on the bricks behind this machine, where is the restorer?
It's Tim Reid from Hot Rodded Pins (HRP), he's in Geelong, Vic. He's a great bloke and does outstanding work.
Quoted from allsportdvd:I live in Brisbane too so should come check this out in person lol
On a side note I love the artwork on the bricks behind this machine, where is the restorer?
I am actually having a house ball next weekend, are you in the house ball club?
As Manny65 said, Tim from HRP, Tim does awesome work.
I received this machine back on Friday, still haven't set it up yet, I might do it tomorrow if I get time.
Quoted from MANTO1975:I am actually having a house ball next weekend, are you in the house ball club?
As Manny65 said, Tim from HRP, Tim does awesome work.
I received this machine back on Friday, still haven't set it up yet, I might do it tomorrow if I get time.
I have no idea what house ball is. In saying that I’ve never entered a tournament/competition even though I’ve been collecting for a dozen years. The shadow looks very nice, post some close up pics once you have it setup
Quoted from Djshakes:I don't think there is a template. In fact, I think I'm the only one that does this unless others have copied my design from earlier posts. I just cut a piece of scrap acrylic and drill it. If you make one how about sending me a couple for coming up with the design? If they are laser cut they might look better than my prototypes. I never made them like my airball mods because I didn't think people would want them. Might be a hot item. I recommend adding the long switch blade as well. I'm still waiting for mine to come in the mail.
I think this was done years ago and posted here. Not sure if they copied your design, I think it was before you posted. I could be wrong. I suspect Lermods is after the exact specs and measurements of a template not just what it looks like.
Quoted from Tranquilize:Bent the left ramp switch straight and soldered a piece of metal on the end. Adjusted switch, and it's been 100% for 2 years and counting. It also provides very little pressure on the ball. Easy peasy.[quoted image][quoted image]
Thats surprising. I find the ball misses mine further down because the ball can ride high on the wire form and completely jump the switch. Surprised yours doesn't get jumped as its even closer to the ramp.
Has anybody redone wireforms in brass or black chrome? I checked out pinball Plating and love the black chrome and have the black chrome upper playfield shroud. I have never been able to see it in a game though. I checked out the brass and damn it looks sharp. I am torn. I’m curious what others have done or think between the two?
Quoted from Squeakman:Has anybody redone wireforms in brass or black chrome? I checked out pinball Plating and love the black chrome and have the black chrome upper playfield shroud. I have never been able to see it in a game though. I checked out the brass and damn it looks sharp. I am torn. I’m curious what others have done or think between the two?
Brass is the correct answer. Lots of reasons. I can list them, but just trust me.
Ok, everyone, the bracket to relocate the left ramp switch is finished. I tested it in my game and it worked every time! The mounting holes are slightly elongated to allow for movement/adjustment of the switch for a precise fit, but I got it working on the first install with no adjustment needed. We also added a hole to ziptie the wire to the bracket. Ziptie is included. I'm also including two mounting screws and nuts to mount the switch to the bracket. Use your existing switch screws to mount the bracket to the ramp. It's nearly invisible from the players view.
Price is $13 shipped and it's now available in our pinside shop. Let me know if you have any questions.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/02959-shadow-left-ramp-switch-bracket
IMG_20191015_183921 (resized).jpgIMG_20191015_184453 (resized).jpgIMG_20191015_183931 (resized).jpgIMG_20191015_184237 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Lermods:Ok, everyone, the bracket to relocate the left ramp switch is finished. I tested it in my game and it worked every time! The mounting holes are slightly elongated to allow for movement/adjustment of the switch for a precise fit, but I got it working on the first install with no adjustment needed. We also added a hole to ziptie the wire to the bracket. Ziptie is included. I'm also including two mounting screws and nuts to mount the switch to the bracket. Use your existing switch screws to mount the bracket to the ramp. It's nearly invisible from the players view.
Price is $13 shipped and it's now available in our pinside shop. Let me know if you have any questions.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/02959-shadow-left-ramp-switch-bracket
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Can you slip one in your suitcase for Expo pick-up?
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:Can you slip one in your suitcase for Expo pick-up?
Sure can, we will have a few on hand there.
Quoted from Lermods:Ok, everyone, the bracket to relocate the left ramp switch is finished. I tested it in my game and it worked every time! The mounting holes are slightly elongated to allow for movement/adjustment of the switch for a precise fit, but I got it working on the first install with no adjustment needed. We also added a hole to ziptie the wire to the bracket. Ziptie is included. I'm also including two mounting screws and nuts to mount the switch to the bracket. Use your existing switch screws to mount the bracket to the ramp. It's nearly invisible from the players view.
Price is $13 shipped and it's now available in our pinside shop. Let me know if you have any questions.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/02959-shadow-left-ramp-switch-bracket
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
...and purchased. Thanks!
Quoted from Squeakman:Has anybody redone wireforms in brass or black chrome
I’ve seen black wire forms, gun, rails and legs. Looks very cool.
You can get an alt translite to match. These pics will give you an idea.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/79871
Quoted from schwarz:Found this plastic while organizing, if anyone needs it they can have it.[quoted image]
That's the ONE plastic on mine that's broken! PM incoming.
I need the following plastic.
I'm having airball mods made for IJ94 and TFTC again. I am also possibly having the switch extender bracket made in clear with the words "The Shadow" in the font you see in image engraved on the switch extender. I would trade one for the plastic. Getting quotes today.
shadow plastics (resized).JPG
Quoted from schwarz:Found this plastic while organizing, if anyone needs it they can have it.[quoted image]
Plastic is gone.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:I just modified my wire ramp switch. Couldn't stand it any longer. Clear is the way to go in my opinion. It looks very factory if you shape it nicely. Highly recommended. It makes a big difference to your high scores too. [quoted image]
Very nice! I like that.
We've still got plenty of switch brackets, $13 shipped in our pinside shop. Sold several at expo over the weekend. 100% fix for a frustrating issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/02959-shadow-left-ramp-switch-bracket
Quoted from Lermods:We've still got plenty of switch brackets, $13 shipped in our pinside shop. Sold several at expo over the weekend. 100% fix for a frustrating issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/02959-shadow-left-ramp-switch-bracket
What is the issue? In case it comes up. Thanks.
Quoted from pinballjah:What is the issue? In case it comes up. Thanks.
A fast ball hops over the switch on the left ramp right wire form path causing it not to register (score). This makes “vengeance” and multiple combos very difficult. Moving the switch down the path a couple inches allows the ball to settle down a bit and roll in the wire form where it can be registered far more consistently. Makes a huge difference to your high scores.
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