(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club

By marsgnu

10 years ago


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  • 10,922 posts
  • 754 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Pinkitten
  • Topic is favorited by 279 Pinsiders

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There are 10,922 posts in this topic. You are on page 124 of 219.
#6151 4 years ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

Anyone have a guide or advice for wiring in LEDs into the ring lights

PM rotordave. He has some pics for wiring in a standard led bulb.

#6152 4 years ago

Shout out to ramegoom My Shadow is 99% complete!

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#6153 4 years ago

Tired of air balls on this game? Here is a very low tech invisible solution. Picked up these little guys at the hardware store and stuck one each on the problem impact targets. You'll need to adjust the contacts a bit but after that you should be in business.
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#6154 4 years ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Shout out to ramegoom My Shadow is 99% complete![quoted image]

Glad it worked out for you. Looks remarkable.

#6155 4 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Tired of air balls on this game? Here is a very low tech invisible solution. Picked up these little guys at the hardware store and stuck one each on the problem impact targets. You'll need to adjust the contacts a bit but after that you should be in business.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm not sure that will work long-term. The issue is usually that the metal supports bend backward. I just put flipper rubber plugs in the gap behind the metal after bending it forward. It's been perfect for two years and counting.

#6156 4 years ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

I'm not sure that will work long-term. The issue is usually that the metal supports bend backward. I just put flipper rubber plugs in the gap behind the metal after bending it forward. It's been perfect for two years and counting.

I forgot to mention that my targets are the reinforced ones. They sit nice and straight but were still generating air balls. The design of the reinforced ones aren't easily modified to bend forward. The extra little pad adds just enough downword pitch on the face of the target when struck to keep the ball on the playfield.

#6157 4 years ago

My back targets on the upper Playfield have not been coming back up once I hit them even though I have more hits to complete. Any ideas where to start looking?

#6158 4 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

My back targets on the upper Playfield have not been coming back up once I hit them even though I have more hits to complete. Any ideas where to start looking?

Yes, likely grimey, try taking them apart, cleaning and waxing.

#6159 4 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I forgot to mention that my targets are the reinforced ones. They sit nice and straight but were still generating air balls. The design of the reinforced ones aren't easily modified to bend forward. The extra little pad adds just enough downword pitch on the face of the target when struck to keep the ball on the playfield.

Ah, then I’d pull the targets and Bend them forward with some force. My only concern with this is that the rubber stoppers will prematurely wear the foam as it will be affected with each ball hit. More maintenance in the long run. If it works though, good on ya.

#6160 4 years ago

I was just leveling my newly acquired Shadow and heard something drop off the playfield into the cabinet. It was this pivot nut - anyone know where it goes?

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#6161 4 years ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

anyone know where it goes?

This is the nut that the play field slides on. It screws onto the carriage bolt that is going thru the side of the cabinet.

#6162 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is the nut that the play field slides on. It screws onto the carriage bolt that is going thru the side of the cabinet.

Thanks!

#6163 4 years ago

Sold my game , have just received my CPR gold playfield , Mini playfield and a complete plastics set.
Bought direct for over $1100.00
$800.00 plus shipping takes it!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/83156

#6164 4 years ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Shout out to ramegoom My Shadow is 99% complete![quoted image]

Would you mind posting a picture of your topper. Just picked up the Shadow cars, like to see how you set it up. Thanks.

Was the blue car in the movie?

#6165 4 years ago

Well I’ve finally got the fucker out...lube, punch and hammer didn’t work. Heat didn’t work. Pliers and twisting and brute force finally broke it. I’ve been able to source the parts so breaking the shaft wasn’t the end of the world apart from setting me back quite a few coins. I still don’t really know what made it stick.

Quoted from Manny65:

You'd want to be very careful with a blowtorch - lots of things that could melt around there. I'd suggested heating but was thinking more of soldering iron with a heavy duty tip, as metal expands when heated and heating one bit (eg the crank arm) and not the other (the shaft) can help.
That said seeing the pics, Dave's idea of punch and hammer is the way to go.

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#6166 4 years ago
Quoted from dluth:

Well I’ve finally got the fucker out...lube, punch and hammer didn’t work. Heat didn’t work. Pliers and twisting and brute force finally broke it. I’ve been able to source the parts so breaking the shaft wasn’t the end of the world apart from setting me back quite a few coins. I still don’t really know what made it stick.
[quoted image]

Wow that was one tough bugger to get apart ... Unfortunate that it ended up breaking but as you said the replacement parts are available and at least you can now move forward

#6167 4 years ago

I’d love to join the club if anyone has a lead on one within a reasonable driving distance of Indianapolis. Project or players condition is totally fine. Thanks!

#6168 4 years ago

Anyone have a working Shadow soundboard they be willing to sell me? If you swapped out for a Pinsound board, etc. Keep having issues with mine and the woofer going out. Thanks.

#6169 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Anyone have a working Shadow soundboard they be willing to sell me? If you swapped out for a Pinsound board, etc. Keep having issues with mine and the woofer going out. Thanks.

why not just get yours fixed? If the cabinet speaker is going in and out. Probably a bad connection to your speaker, the plug going to it, the wires or the wires on the speaker itself. if you have extra speakers with the same ohms sitting around. Hook it up and see if it goes in and out or not.

#6170 4 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

why not just get yours fixed? If the cabinet speaker is going in and out. Probably a bad connection to your speaker, the plug going to it, the wires or the wires on the speaker itself. if you have extra speakers with the same ohms sitting around. Hook it up and see if it goes in and out or not.

Thanks. It is the sub woofer, something keeps blowing on the soundboard. It has happened to me once before and also a friend's game. The issue is every time I get a tech to replace it, cost me $50. I figure it might be cheaper just to buy a new soundboard so I don't have to spend on techs anymore. I may just use an external sub woofer.

#6171 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Thanks. It is the sub woofer, something keeps blowing on the soundboard

It’s not a sub, it’s just a speaker.

(Unless you changed it to a different speaker ... )

If it keeps blowing doesn’t it indicate an issue with the speaker? Why not swap in your Dr Who speaker for a while and see what happens ...

rd

#6172 4 years ago

Calling on experts. Sanctum issue.

I have an odd problem with the wall target (brick wall in the Sanctum). On startup, I occasionally get an error "Wall Target Bad, Check Switch/Coil". Checked the switch, diode and both coils. All work correctly. The manual test for both coils and switch all function normally.

What happens is, the wall doesn't drop during game play. It should drop once you enter the magnet and cross the opto, but isn't happening. Also, it seems the magnet is weak, won't hold the ball even though it does function on the manual test -somewhat. The magnet used to hold the ball solidly, wait a quarter of a second, then shoot it into the Sanctum. Doesn't want to do that now but instead just kind of wobbles the ball when it crosses the opto, and I'm thinking this is the underlying problem. The machine is about as clean as they get, with no real wear at the magnet of the Sanctum entrance.

Any ideas what tree I should be barking up?

#6173 4 years ago
Quoted from rotordave:

It’s not a sub, it’s just a speaker.
(Unless you changed it to a different speaker ... )
If it keeps blowing doesn’t it indicate an issue with the speaker? Why not swap in your Dr Who speaker for a while and see what happens ...
rd

Thanks, it is a Fiipper Fidelity speaker.

#6175 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Thanks, it is a Fiipper Fidelity speaker.

I’d do the swap - it’ll take 5 minutes, you got nothing to lose.

rd

#6176 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Thanks, it is a Fiipper Fidelity speaker

I don't think this speaker has the same impedance as the original speaker. This can cause the power amp to blow on the sound board from excessive current draw.

#6177 4 years ago

Thanks for the link, it helped a lot. I now realize the switch should only activate by contacting the wall when down. The lift arm shouldn't activate the switch. I had it doing just that.

With the lift arm activating the switch, the CPU would think the wall is down when it's up, since the arm drops down by its own weight and comes in slight contact with the switch lever.

Works perfectly now.

#6178 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Works perfectly now.

I had a similar issue years ago and had to rack my brain to remember where I found it.

#6179 4 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Calling on experts. Sanctum issue.
I have an odd problem with the wall target (brick wall in the Sanctum). On startup, I occasionally get an error "Wall Target Bad, Check Switch/Coil". Checked the switch, diode and both coils. All work correctly. The manual test for both coils and switch all function normally.
What happens is, the wall doesn't drop during game play. It should drop once you enter the magnet and cross the opto, but isn't happening. Also, it seems the magnet is weak, won't hold the ball even though it does function on the manual test -somewhat. The magnet used to hold the ball solidly, wait a quarter of a second, then shoot it into the Sanctum. Doesn't want to do that now but instead just kind of wobbles the ball when it crosses the opto, and I'm thinking this is the underlying problem. The machine is about as clean as they get, with no real wear at the magnet of the Sanctum entrance.
Any ideas what tree I should be barking up?

I thinking to give the switch at the bottom of the wall mech a good look.

#6180 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I don't think this speaker has the same impedance as the original speaker. This can cause the power amp to blow on the sound board from excessive current draw.Ok, maybe that is the issue.

But I think this is a Flipper Fidelity speaker that was made for the original soundboard (not the Pinsound version). I can take a photo if that is helpful. Thanks as usual.

#6181 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

But I think this is a Flipper Fidelity speaker that was made for the original soundboard (not the Pinsound version). I can take a photo if that is helpful. Thanks as usual.

Yes if you can get a pic of the speaker label.

#6182 4 years ago

Topper is done.

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#6183 4 years ago

Was adding the headlights tough to do? I also picked up a Shadow car recently. Trying to make a stand for it. Thanks.

#6184 4 years ago

I'm wondering if anybody has this same issue, after the balls are locked in the sanctum area and are released if I don't hit the ball with my upper flipper 90% of the time they will go straight down the middle, are there any adjustments for this? I have my game set fairly steep so it plays fast but just wondering what others are doing

#6185 4 years ago

Anyone have a recommendation for colorful score/freeplay cards? The black and white factory originals just don't cut it.

#6186 4 years ago
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:

Anyone have a recommendation for colorful score/freeplay cards? The black and white factory originals just don't cut it.

Been looking at mine too...might have to make some myself.

#6187 4 years ago
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:

Anyone have a recommendation for colorful score/freeplay cards? The black and white factory originals just don't cut it.

http://www.pinballcards.com/

#6188 4 years ago
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:

Anyone have a recommendation for colorful score/freeplay cards? The black and white factory originals just don't cut it.

There are some floating around, but I like Aurichs design the best. He has a thread on pinside and posted the artwork to it.

#6189 4 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I'm wondering if anybody has this same issue, after the balls are locked in the sanctum area and are released if I don't hit the ball with my upper flipper 90% of the time they will go straight down the middle, are there any adjustments for this? I have my game set fairly steep so it plays fast but just wondering what others are doing

back isn't leveled correctly. Lift up the back left leg about 3-5 threads.

#6190 4 years ago

I used a Dremel to cut out the car headlights. Easy.

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#6191 4 years ago
Quoted from Twister:

Hi,
Thanks for you feedback Terry. I'm happy you like it.
I have received many messages. Terry got one of the 4 prototypes. The first order is not yet completed, I'm still waiting for 24 parts of the chrome plating. Unfortunately, the chrome takes a little longer. It is not made commercially, a friend does that after work in his spare time. I wait daily for the parts.
Since I have received so many requests now, I will try to make a 2nd order, and looking for a different provider for the chrome plating. Or another surface, maybe a black slc coating.
Sascha

put me on the list too. looks fantastic!

#6192 4 years ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

put me on the list too. looks fantastic!

2nd best mod I’ve seen for the Shadow behind the Aurich package of course, well worth it

#6193 4 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

2nd best mod I’ve seen for the Shadow behind the Aurich package of course, well worth it

What is the mod? I can’t find the OP

#6194 4 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

What is the mod? I can’t find the OP

Twister is the mod owner, I don’t think there is a dedicated post for it

#6195 4 years ago

Before I get a lot of private messages, here is the current status.
I get the most parts from first run back from chrome plating.
I am actually shipping these parts. First People who are on my list for first run have get a message.

3 parts I have here without chrome plating. With these parts I will go to a local plating company. If this company do good work for a good price, I ship this 3 more parts, and then I start a second new list.
Unfortunately there was an accident with some parts. They have fallen from the hook into the sink in the electroplating, and lay there unnoticed for a few days. So I have not enough parts.

Sascha

#6196 4 years ago
Quoted from Twister:

Before I get a lot of private messages, here is the current status.
I get the most parts from first run back from chrome plating.
I am actually shipping these parts. First People who are on my list for first run have get a message.
3 parts I have here without chrome plating. With these parts I will go to a local plating company. If this company do good work for a good price, I ship this 3 more parts, and then I start a second new list.
Unfortunately there was an accident with some parts. They have fallen from the hook into the sink in the electroplating, and lay there unnoticed for a few days. So I have not enough parts.
Sascha

What is the mod you’re making?

#6197 4 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

What is the mod? I can’t find the OP

Quoted from Happy81724:

What is the mod you’re making?

Twister posted about a replacement battlefield plastic (the one that surrounds the battlefield) done in metal and then black chromed. He's done a small run of them - you can find pictures in his posts in this thread

#6198 4 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

@Twister posted about a replacement battlefield plastic (the one that surrounds the battlefield) done in metal and then black chromed. He's done a small run of them - you can find pictures in his posts in this thread

Ah, ok, depending on price I would be interested as well

#6199 4 years ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Ah, ok, depending on price I would be interested as well

I would imagine they will be at least $200.

#6200 4 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I would imagine they will be at least $200.

No, 130€ with shipping to US
But I can't promise if I can hold the price with another plating company.

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