Also, the diverters and the flipper buttons are not working. Not sure if they are not activated until a ball is in the shooter lane? Thanks.

Yes the other one comes out. I cannot budge the left one at all, struggling to know what to do!!??

It's not the easiest of area to work on and it may be simpler to pull the playfield out

Just double check that there are no screws (or remnants of screws) in the 2 holes on the crank arm collar. If there are and you can't get them out, you may be forced to drill them out. You can either tap the drilled holes for larger set screws or replace the crank arm https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/the-shadow/9332/crank-arm-assembly-for-the-shadow if need be

If there are no screws holding the shaft, take a look at where the diverter shaft goes into the crank arm, look for any signs of glue - this diverter is known to have issues regarding the screws holding the diverter in place (maybe an operator had had enough with it coming loose). If you can see residual glue then maybe some glue solvent may help??

Try to get some grips one on the shaft (maybe on the topside of the playfield) and one of the crank arm to apply more leverage to free it - this will also ensure that you are not putting any undue force on other components.

I see that replacement diverters are also available if you need to go down this path (although the spot welds aren't pretty) https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/the-shadow/9333/diverter-left-for-the-shadow-a-19638-1

Let us know how you get on

Apparently if you cut a section of flipper rubber and use it to replace the target foam it works great.
What jawjaw said is also true, if the switch is real beat up it's probably best to just replace it.
I'm a cheapo DIY-er and my switches are fine so that's the route I'm going to take.

Can you try twisting it, instead of just pulling it?

You have a lot of different problems. I would focus on one thing at a time like the missing ball. Anytime you have issues it doesn't hurt to check all the fuses with a multimeter. Check all your board connections and make sure connectors are not off by one pin or loose. Flippers and diverters should work as soon as you start a game. However, voltage to coils is cut if coin door is open. Easy to forget that when working on bunch of different issues.

I installed a new rack and pinion kit on The Shadow. The set screw in the Marco kit protrudes out a bit and needs to be ground down for smooth operation. Pricey but seems to work fine. I did notice a crack in my slide bracket. How have others fixed this issue? I was thinking about just having my local body shop just doing a quick spot weld. Any thoughts?

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Yes I had the same thought as well. In re-reading dluth original post, the end of the diverter bracket has snapped off, so that bracket must have been under some considerable stress and this could possibly have caused damage to the crank arm or diverter shaft such that the diverter can't be easily removed. He also said that he removed the 2 set screws, but the diverter shaft is recessed where the screws hold it in place and I'm wondering whether the lip of the recess is jammed in the crank arm collar or the crank arm is twisted due to the broken bracket.

Anyone have Aurich’s translite they would sell? Or know someone w one? Thanks

Is it the bolts (number 6 in the below diagram) that attach the coil stop (number 5) to the bracket that have snapped off or have the bolts torn off some of the bracket as well? Possibly the nuts had become lose, creating more torque on the bolts when the plunger hit the coil stop - this would eventually fatigue them and snap them off, or if the end of the bracket was slightly brittle from hardening (due to those bolts being welded inplace) then it could have cracked and eventually snapped off with the coil stop still attached.

Would be interested in seeing a photo of it if you get a chance

diverter mech (resized).png

Thanks for the response. I found the ball in the sanctum area. Must have been up there when I turned off the game initially. Surprised it didn’t get kicked out when I turned the game on? I will start with checking all the fuses for sure. Got a new error message about the gun trigger.

Does anyone know which fuse controls the ball ejection mechanism? Thanks for your help.

Check the manual, I think it’s the back of section 2, might be F111/112 or one of the others on that bank.

PM sent.

Thanks for the help. Jim

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/introducing-the-pinshakers-universal-plug-amp-play-shaker-motor-kit#post-5110377

Pinshakers is making shakers available for all games!!! I am gonna get one for my shadow!!

I checked the fuses this morning and you were spot on. F112 was not working. Unfortunately, it appears to be a unique fuse and the only 7A in the game. I will have to see if I can find another 7A in any of my other games to try. As the fuse blew, do you think there is a sort somewhere causing it to blow or is the best approach to swap it out and see if the game responds? Thanks for your help.

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Could be either a problem, or just one of those things.
Try swapping in a new fuse and see if it blows quickly.
If you have 5 Amp on hand try one of those while you get some 7s. Don't put anything bigger in there (obviously).

can't wait, tie it in with the flashers and when multi ball hits it will be amazing

got to final battle last night, such a killer pin.

I got close the other night. Im worried once i hit the final battle ill be done with this game already. Hoping it takes me longer than a few months to get there.

I have had several Shadows. I got to it several times on each one, except last night was my first time on my newer shadow. Clear coated playfield makes it crazy fast sometimes. This one is a keeper for me, it is just so good. It is difficult but not impossible and has tons of toys and shots.

Id be interested to know how that shaker kit installs when you finally get one.

Would the Shaker kit be okay with the diverters and upper battlefield. I just wonder if the shaking can damage/loosen the components in the pin.

I came across this today, a little expensive... the Shadow Complete! https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/53749697_gibson-walter-grant-maxwell-pseud-author-s-own

I wondered about that too. This game seems very temperamental.

LOL. yes, shadows are tempermental, but once dialed in they are fantastic. I used to hate lifting the playfield on my first one because something would stop working almost every time.

Yes, but would adding vibrations have a negative impact?

For reference. If you get the following errors all of a sudden, check fuse 112. I replaced mine and all of the errors went away:

CHECK SWITCH 48 SHOOTER
CHECK SWITCH 51 WALL TARGET DOWN
CHECK SWITCH 55 BATTLE TARGET DOWN
ER. WALL TGT. BAD CHK. SWITCH/COIL
ER. BAT. DROP BAD CHK. SWITCH/COIL

Anyone have a guide or advice for wiring in LEDs into the ring lights? One of my 7268 bulb sockets is shot and a new bulb won't fix the problem.

Marco has replacement sockets if you want to keep them on all on bulbs https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8856

anyone ever find a good sub for butt head fastner pair on the gun.
02-5041-15G
I typed in sex bolt and found these
ebay.com link: One Way Sex Bolt 10 24 Nut 1 Screw 3 4 SS18 8 10sets

at least I'll never forget what their called.

How is the socket shot? The socket itself is just a round plastic cylinder with two holes in it. If those tiny connectors on the black are still there you can do this..

20190728_013306 (resized).jpg

I got to Final Battle on my 3rd night of ownership, and thought the same thing... possibly a bit on the easy side. Since then I’ve made Final Battle 2 more times, but it’s utterly kicked my ass in between. Best effort is 5 or 6 shots remaining in final battle but I’m enjoying it much more. It offers so much in the one pin and really fills a void in my lineup.

I have mine setup at around 7.5-7.75deg and boy it’s fast. If you find yours a little easy, ramp it up!!

Getting to Final Battle and beating it are two different challenges. I've gotten there many times but have only beaten it once. That's what keeps me coming back for more. If you find that you are getting there too often than setup your game to play more difficult.

There are so many challenges in this pin. The modes are no picnic to actually complete and getting the Super Jackpots in Shadow and Kahn MB is tough! I don't think I'll ever get bored with this pin

The key is keep shooting the saucers they will spot you a shot.

Yep. Once you know this, its easier going. Dont freaking light khan. In fact just avoid it. Itll happen eventually.

Which is the saucer shot??

The Start Scene or Start Khan Multiball kick-out holes

Sorry Manny, been off pinside for a few days - here’s a pic.
I have tried twisting it, pulling it. I’m almost at the stage where the only option seems to be to cut the shaft somehow

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

I could just take it off your hands

The only other thing you could try would be to heat the crank arm to see if it'd help free it. Certainly an impressive failure of the bracket, that plunger must have been hitting the coil stop with some force - are the coils AE-25-1000 (based off the manual)?

If you get sick of it, sell it to me. I'll store in the garage as a spare.

Hit it with a heap of WD40/CRC and hit it dead in the end of the shaft with a centre punch and a hammer.

That’ll get the bugger out. Guarantee it.

rd

I know it’s somewhat off topic, but what do others think of the new Jurassic Park pin? I’m thinking of getting it to put next to my Shadow as my second pin. I previously had my deposit down for an Alien, but we know how that worked out. I think JP’s rules seem quite complex with different ways to approach the game; I really like Shadow for its non-linear path of how to approach, and balanced scoring.

Jurassic Park looks pretty cool I will not lie.

I'm not buying into all of the hype just yet but it's looking like its going to be a good one.

I'm still waiting to see what happens with GB code before I make any moves.

do this, get some penetrating oil or whatever and soak it and then use a punch to drive it out. One of mine got stuck one time. Don't be scared to get aggressive.

I agree. I personally would put a piece of metal of some sort (screw driver, nut driver, socket extension, etc) under the metal bracket first, but then yes, hit that shaft with a hammer.

I’ll give it a go...someone also suggested heating it with a small blowtorch to loosen any glue that might be there. But it sounds a bit risky... I think I’ll go the WD-40 and punch route first.

As per above ... find a small open ended spanner and put it in the gap to support the bracket. That will take the impact from the punch and make sure the shaft is getting the movement. And minimise any bending on the bracket.

Then give it a whack.

rd

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You'd want to be very careful with a blowtorch - lots of things that could melt around there. I'd suggested heating but was thinking more of soldering iron with a heavy duty tip, as metal expands when heated and heating one bit (eg the crank arm) and not the other (the shaft) can help.

That said seeing the pics, Dave's idea of punch and hammer is the way to go.