(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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  • 6,430 posts
  • 549 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by Djshakes
  • Topic is favorited by 182 Pinsiders

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There are 6430 posts in this topic. You are on page 122 of 129.
#6051 4 months ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Powder coat came back today. We are very happy with the look especially with the alt translite[quoted image][quoted image]

Love the way that the colour turned out. Looks much better than the colour that my wife picked out for mine

#6052 4 months ago
Quoted from Stuieb84:

Love the way that the colour turned out. Looks much better than the colour that my wife picked out for mine

Keep blaming the wife....lol

#6053 4 months ago
Quoted from Stuieb84:

Looks much better than the colour that my wife picked out for mine

Should have vetoed it ...

rd

#6054 4 months ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

Powder coat came back today. We are very happy with the look especially with the alt translite[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks beautiful.

#6055 4 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Should have vetoed it ...
rd

Happy wife = happy life

#6056 4 months ago
Quoted from Stuieb84:

Happy wife = happy life

Bad trim = sad pin

rd

#6057 4 months ago

Fart in the wind = wasted sin

#6058 4 months ago

This works so i havent bothered to fix it, but man does it set some OCD off in my head...

Thinking about adding a few washers below the left side to straighten it out.

56A31974-9DEE-44F6-8579-DDA5D06BA34C (resized).jpeg
#6059 4 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

This works so i havent bothered to fix it, but man does it set some OCD off in my head...
Thinking about adding a few washers below the left side to straighten it out.[quoted image]

Mine is similar too.

#6060 4 months ago

So I suck at teching and cant figure out my flasher issue yet. But I can install a matrix mod I had laying around for another game! May look better with a purple post, but this will do for now...

Here is where Im at on the flasher issue. Text to my buddy for help:

“Just pulled all the flashers on shadow. I had tested it real quick before hand with the breaker on to see if maybe one of them was out and was causing the issue. Not the case. The machine makes a louder humming noise when the flashers would test and all the flashers were dim, not bright. So I pulled them all, and tested ohms for shorts. All came back clean.”

I also pulled J106 and J107 respectively and both still blew the breaker when on one by one.

Any ideas?

image (resized).jpg
#6061 4 months ago

I saw this topper from the ACNC thread and thought it'd be a cool mod to flash during the multiball as it kind of copies the DMD. It's a Gemmy LED projector.

Anyone know how it could activate only during MB?

#6062 4 months ago

Any ideas on why the battlefield is not operating correctly? The kicker fires sometimes but won’t move right??

#6063 4 months ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Any ideas on why the battlefield is not operating correctly? The kicker fires sometimes but won’t move right??

There are some optos underneath the battlefield that control left and right movement of the kicker. I had one go bad years ago. Sometimes a wire will pop off the opto as well that can cause that.

#6064 4 months ago

I did a test of the playfield and got this screen. The manual doesn’t have any guidance for the error. Any thoughts?

I will check the opto

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#6065 4 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Right! I had a few PMs a few weeks back about how I was going to fix my lower right ramp switch so it actually registers EVERY time the ball is shot up there. You may remember I shot a video showing the ball jumping the standard switch.
So let’s make one!
This has been done many times before ... it’s the best way to go IMO.
I made mine out of 3mm high impact acrylic. But you could use aluminium or metal.
I machined the acrylic down to approx 100mm long x 30mm wide.
[quoted image]
I marked out where the vertical support was on the wire form, and filed out a small groove to fit around it.
[quoted image]
I drilled the holes for the switch and mounted it to the acrylic. I just used the long lever switch that I had on the machine, but the standard switch would also work fine. I used the standard switch screws and mounting plate.
At the other end, I used 2x machine screws, washers and lock nuts. I had to drill out the mount a little as these were the smallest screws I had on hand. Smaller diameter machine screws/bolts would be better.
I bent the switch lever to suit, so it always registers, but a slow ball doesn’t get stalled on it.
Works like a champion. Registers every single time. SUPER VENGEANCE!
rd
[quoted image]

Great work ROTO, do you happen to have the dimensions of it?

#6066 4 months ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

I did a test of the playfield and got this screen. The manual doesn’t have any guidance for the error. Any thoughts?
I will check the opto[quoted image]

As noted, check your opto board under the mini pf. Once you lift the mini pf, put the game in switch test mode and slide a piece of paper through the optos to see if they register.

#6067 4 months ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Any ideas on why the battlefield is not operating correctly? The kicker fires sometimes but won’t move right??

lift up the mini playfield. There is a black bracket where the side to side coil has a spur gear. That bracket has a very thin spot in one of the corners, that likes to break often. Make sure your metal bracket that has the teeth track on it, doesn't have a broken corner where the spur gear moves inside of .

#6068 4 months ago

Installed the cityscape backboard decal from brewninja, came out great...added some ice blue backboard lighting to highlight it more. No need to remove the backboard, just remove the flasher covers and the two screws holding the battlefield exit ramp and you have a clean slate to work with. I used a little dawn a water to help with positioning.

MVIMG_20190713_163622 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190713_163657 (resized).jpg
#6069 4 months ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Great work ROTO, do you happen to have the dimensions of it?

In the post.

>I made mine out of 3mm high impact acrylic. But you could use aluminium or metal.
I machined the acrylic down to approx 100mm long x 30mm wide.

rd

#6070 4 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Installed the cityscape backboard decal from brewninja, came out great...added some ice blue backboard lighting to highlight it more. No need to remove the backboard, just remove the flasher covers and the two screws holding the battlefield exit ramp and you have a clean slate to work with. I used a little dawn a water to help with positioning.[quoted image][quoted image]

Think ill stick with my first thought that warm white would look best. You washed all the color out of that art man. Bummer.

Wait, nevermind. You bought the bootleg decal. Thats why its not right.

#6071 4 months ago

Bootleg? I bought it from a seller with a pinside shop. Is there another version?

#6072 4 months ago

Just finished the shop job on my new to me The Shadow. The pin had a few problems but good bones. Came out great in my opinion. Not to bad for rescuing it out of an arcade.

20190714_145733 (resized).jpg20190714_150119 (resized).jpg
#6073 4 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Just finished the shop job on my new to me The Shadow. The pin had a few problems but good bones. Came out great in my opinion. Not to bad for rescuing it out of an arcade. [quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great!

#6074 4 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Bootleg? I bought it from a seller with a pinside shop. Is there another version?

jonesjb makes the official one as far as im concerned.

#6075 4 months ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Any ideas on why the battlefield is not operating correctly? The kicker fires sometimes but won’t move right??

Lift up Mini Playfield and make sure your kicker slides back and forth really smooth. Make sure you clean off the two metal guides. Operators used to lube those, but that’s a bad idea. They can get gummed up that way. Make sure the two metal guides are tight and solid as well. I had a similar issue and one of my guides was compromised. The rubber piece on the end was ripped. I had to buy a new one from Marcos.

#6076 4 months ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Lift up Mini Playfield and make sure your kicker slides back and forth really smooth. Make sure you clean off the two metal guides. Operators used to lube those, but that’s a bad idea. They can get gummed up that way. Make sure the two metal guides are tight and solid as well. I had a similar issue and one of my guides was compromised. The rubber piece on the end was ripped. I had to buy a new one from Marcos.

Mine would get sluggish over time. I would then clean the shaft and it would be ok for a week or so. Mine was full of grease as well. They say once those brass bushings get grease on them,they are screwed. I bought new ones and it worked fine ever since. If your shafts are pitted , they should be changed also. But one of the shafts marco sells is too thick for the bushings he sells. Dont remember which one though.

#6077 4 months ago

These two components work together to move the diverter. They had a brass "upgrade" spur gear but the problem was, the brass would eat up the nylon rack gear quickly. So, the ideal combination is to use the nylon material on both parts. It's not really necessary to lube those parts since grease only attracts dirt and dust, causing early failure on the material.

The spur gear uses a set screw and a roll pin to hold it in place. If the pin is missing, the set screw could come loose and cause the gear to rotate on the shaft. Be sure the pin is in place on the gear.

The rack is held in place by three screws; don't over-tighten the screws as the shallow threads can easily be stripped out. If the rack is not secure, it'll bind.
103500 (resized).jpgbrass-gear (resized).jpgnew-gear (resized).jpg

#6078 4 months ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

jonesjb makes the official one as far as im concerned.

Link?

#6079 4 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Thanks to twister I have my Shadow Battlefield plastic mod! The black chrome looks nice and even though it’s a tighter fit than the original it’s much more attractive[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

love that sanctum dot

#6080 4 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

These two components

How is nobody 3D printing these?

#6081 4 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

How is nobody 3D printing these?

They're available new.

Molded out of reinforced nylon. But if you 3D the part, it'll wear out quickly. You can't find filled material like this for printing.

#6083 4 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

They're available new.
Molded out of reinforced nylon. But if you 3D the part, it'll wear out quickly. You can't find filled material like this for printing.

Didn't know that, link please?

#6084 4 months ago

Marco has the complete kit:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-20267-RP

rak-spur (resized).JPG

#6085 4 months ago

And it's ONLY $90.

#6086 4 months ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

And it's ONLY $90.

We are putting multiple generations of Marcos family through college at this point

#6087 4 months ago
Quoted from lordloss:

We are putting multiple generations of Marcos family through college at this point

yep, but they do carry a very large line of stuff. almost always guaranteed to have what you need and only have to order from 1 place. They are good people and he gets tons of parts custom manufactured that can't be purchased anywhere else.

#6088 4 months ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

And it's ONLY $90.

Add about $70 USD on top of that to post it to New Zealand ... and feel my pain.

rd

#6089 4 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Add about $70 USD on top of that to post it to New Zealand ... and feel my pain.
rd

Just for LOLs I went and put it in a cart to see how much shipping it was for that one item.

I wasn’t too far wrong.

rd

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#6090 4 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Just for LOLs I went and put it in a cart to see how much shipping it was for that one item.
I wasn’t too far wrong.
rd[quoted image]

Yep being in Australia I never order from Marco either. If I absolutely must, I have it shipped to a friend in the USA who then sends it to me First Class International which Marco won’t offer. Funny thing is I pay 2 lots of shipping and it’s still less than half that $69USD

#6091 4 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Funny thing is I pay 2 lots of shipping and it’s still less than half that $69USD

Me too. My last order the quoted $75 USD shipping, it worked out at $30 NZ bucks ($20 USD) including Marco shipping to the NZ post depot in Portland and then NZ post shipping it to me.

Big difference.

If I’m going to the States my suitcase always comes back full of pinball stuff.

rd

#6092 4 months ago

PM me if you have a set of sling plastic protectors you want to sell, thanks

#6093 4 months ago

So I need to replace my left diverter bracket as a bit at the end has snapped off. Following the manual’s instructions to remove the mechanism, I removed both set screws and the shaft that connects to the phurba is supposed to slide out...but it absolutely won’t budge. I’ve pulled it, pushed it and it doesn’t even look like coming out. Any advice?

#6094 4 months ago

I get a lot of airballs off the left ramp targets, is there a fix for this?

#6095 4 months ago

I noticed that the woofer of my Shadow wasn't working so I decided to check the connections to the soundboard to make sure they were all connected properly. I decided to check some of the other connectors to make sure they were all in fully, and that's when things went wrong.

First, I turned on the game and the monitor wasn't working (just a scrambled green screen) and the game wouldn't turn on (to start a new game). I checked the connectors to the DMD and one had come loose. I turned the game on again and the DMD and sound are working but now all I am getting are these numerous errors. Also, I think one of the balls has disappeared (if that makes sense). I checked the balls and there were only four and I was getting a message that a ball is missing. So I put a 5th ball in but when I start the game, no ball is coming out into the shooter lane. There has never been an error about a ball missing so there must be a ball stuck in the game somewhere.

Here are the various error messages. Any idea what might be causing this? Could it be a blown fuse(s)? It seems odd all of these errors would start at the same time when the game was working perfectly (with the exception of the woofer). Thanks for the help!

TEST REPORT

CHECK SWITCH 48 SHOOTER
CHECK SWITCH 51 WALL TARGET DOWN
CHECK SWITCH 55 BATTLE TARGET DOWN
ER. WALL TGT. BAD CHK. SWITCH/COIL
ER. BAT. DROP BAD CHK. SWITCH/COIL

#6096 4 months ago
Quoted from dluth:

So I need to replace my left diverter bracket as a bit at the end has snapped off. Following the manual’s instructions to remove the mechanism, I removed both set screws and the shaft that connects to the phurba is supposed to slide out...but it absolutely won’t budge. I’ve pulled it, pushed it and it doesn’t even look like coming out. Any advice?

Maybe somebody spotwelded it on

#6097 4 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I get a lot of airballs off the left ramp targets, is there a fix for this?

Back metal support of switch is probably bent back. You can bend it back and use extra padding but probably not a long term solution. Get the reinforced switches and that should fix it for good.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R

#6098 4 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Maybe somebody spotwelded it on

Oh, then I’m screwed then? What would be the solution?

#6099 4 months ago
Quoted from dluth:

Oh, then I’m screwed then? What would be the solution?

Can you remove the other one?

#6100 4 months ago

I will try that later today

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