Glad you got the flippers worked out. Might be a good idea to just rebuild flippers. I'm starting to do that on all games I get. Good to make sure right parts are installed and everything setup correctly. Make sure to replace the bushings when you do a rebuild. They are not included in the kits.

Air balls off the left ramp targets are common. They take a pounding and the metal backside gets bent back. This is what causes balls to ramp off. You can try to bend it straighted and put extra padding behind the target or get the reinforced targets. Balls were flying over the flippers on my game but these targets fixed it. Busted the corner off one of them a little while ago and need a new one myself.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R

Ya...I should do it. Maybe this fall. Color dmd in the mail....I couldnt resist. I need to stop....

I don’t remember

When I make a left loop shot it drains if I don't hit it with the (lower) right flipper.
Which flipper should it be feeding to?
My upper flipper is just a couple millimeters away from the ball guide behind it. It's fairly difficult to get the saucer or loop shot with it.
Perhaps re-level?

Ya something is not right. I can make that left loop to upper loop shot so smooth. Makes me love this machine. Im up to a 4-way combo now. Wonder what the max combo is...

aaaaand Ive lost my flashers. Some time last night they stopped working. I didnt have a bunch of time to dig into it, but I concluded J111 fuse was good, so I am hoping its my interlock switch and not this hacky repair I found on the board...
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Looks like a 1 watt resistor instead of a 1/4 watt (or whatever is supposed to go in). if the resistor value is correct, it may not be an issue, just ugly.

Just recieved the backboard decals I ordered from jonesjb and they're looking great!
Can't wait to install them.

Thanks again Jeff

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There used to be a guy on pinside selling this image but it was printed on plastic. I had it on one of my old shadows and you could have a led strip shine down through it and light it up. Was pretty cool. I prefer the brick wall decal, but still looks great.

I think the brick wall makes that whole area WAAAAAY too red. I thought I would like it, but after seeing a bunch of games with it, I went with the city. Ties the game together better imo.

Plus, the resistor above that one appears to be the wrong value. All others in that area are 2.7k ohms. That one is a 2.2k ohm, a difference of 500 ohms.

It’s not this image. Perhaps similar in style (matching the shadow art style), but I created mine from scratch in illustrator, inspired by some buildings in NYC around Central Park.

I wish I still had a picture. It is almost dang identical, but was printed on like 1/8th thick plastic. You should look into it, was easier to install and the lighting effect was cool.

Having an issue with my game. When the ball leaves the battlefield, the kicker is still moving with the flippers. It's like the game doesn't know the ball has exited. Is there a switch or opto somewhere to check this?

It is throwing the error ER battle kicker opto. Not sure where that is.

Is it kicking as well?

I don’t think the game really knows you're off the Battleground until you hit a switch on the lower PF.

At times it's kicking..other times just moving back and forth.

I will say this happened right after I put warm white LEDs in the game..is it possible there is too much light in the area around the battle playfield?

Edit: put incandescent back in, no change.

All switches register in game mode.

The optos on the top of the pf I believe don't have anything to do with the issue as they just tell the kicker to kick when the ball breaks that beam.

My new Shadow arrived today. It's in good shape but dirty with a couple broken wires and plastics. After a couple hours I got it looking like this. Almost no wear in the Sanctum area.

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I do have a bunch of mystery parts floating around in the cabinet. I might play a game of "where does this go? "with you fellas later.

Check the wires to the long opto across the battleground, I bet ones loose.

You mean the ones on the top of the battlefield to the right and left of the yellow kicker? I'll check, but Not sure why that would cause the kicker to remain active with the flipper buttons when the ball leaves the playfield.

The fact that it’s kicking once in a while makes me suspect it could be maybe an intermittent connection. As far as I know the kicker only kicks when the beam breaks.

Makes sense. Bigger issue is why the game thinks a ball is still on the battlefield when it's not. I'm not understanding the logic of the game and what causes the game know the ball has left the battlefield.

Maybe a combination of a beam break and then a lower PF switch hit?

I’ve just noticed if you bomb a battlefield round you don’t get the “flippers, use the flippers” call until you hit a switch.

I could be wrong but that’s my guess.

J111 was actually blown I replaced and the game blew it again on power up. Bought a 5amp button breaker to trouble shoot without blowing through a bunch of fuses. Will go back at it when it arrives.

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It is your battlefield optos. When the ball completely breaks the beam the kicker resets and battlefield closes down. Has nothing to do with lower playfield switches.

On a side note: the first shadow I ever had started having problems when i did a full led job. Did you put all LEDs in the backbox behind trans light? The light was interfering with my battlefield optos. I took out half the blackbox LEDs and it fixed it.

If it was fine and now being weird after led job you might have just bumped the opto board connectors under the playfield. Every shadow i have ever had had loose opto board connectors. Check those

It's missing something.

Mine does this. Once the ball leaves the Battlefield it sometimes gets trapped under the kicker mech on top of a playfield plastic underneath. I have to move the kicker left or right with flipper button to free the ball. I assumed this was normal. I get a “use the flippers” call out which sort re-enforces this is meant to happen.
Someone let me know if this is not part of the game design and I need to investigate further.

Thanks, the kicker resets once a main playfield switch is hit, not when it falls down and breaks the beam. In test mode, the optos work as they should. Why during game play are the optos not sensing the ball has fallen off the battlefield? I checked the connections and reseated the wires on the opto board, no change.

I will have access to another shadow tomorrow and can try my opto board in that game to rule out a board issue.

Googly eyes on Baldwin.

I'm working on it. The offensive Bladwin will be replaced soon.

Ok Pinsiders - need some help here. Found this stuff in the cabinet floating around and need to know if it is part of my game or not. If so, where does it go?

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You don't have an issue. As stated above and in your other thread, the ball sometimes gets hung up under the battlefield and you need to free it. My game doesn't shut off until you hit a lower switch or the battlefield opto has been broken in a certain amount of time.

If you are experiencing random kicking it is the board under the main playfield I mentioned.

Your game sounds fine.

It’s not getting hung up under the battlefield. It exits fine and the behavior is different than it was. Before, as soon as it left the battlefield, the flippers no longer controlled the kicker and the kicker reset. Now, the ball is exiting and it’s not immediately resetting until a switch is hit. Maybe it is normal, just seems odd to have seemingly changed.

It’s normal. The beam breaking activates a kick from the battle field paddle NOT to reset it. From the battlefield’s perspective the game won’t know from the opto if you successfully knocked the ball back up or if you missed it.

Baldwin is gone. It looks much better now.

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Those are not shadow parts.

I got my gun grips in the mail from Art (Oldpinguy) and they look fantastic. When I get time to work on my Shadow, it will be 100% improvement from the plastic grey that came with the machine.

Thanks Art-

Jim

Thank you for the kind words! , Jim

I enjoyed this project very much.

I love the feel of grabbing the gun and how the wood feels.

I have 3-4 pairs of Walnut Left, and thats all folks!

I recognize that it's not to everyone's taste, but I recently got back powdercoated legs and rails. I had expected it to be a bluer purple, but still happy with it. I think it will go well with purple under cabinet lights, purple flashers and purple mode select insert leds.

Finished so far:
* strip, patch and paint cabinet
* repaint coin mechanism
* comet leds
* titan rubbers
* new vinyl apply
* new buttons
* cityscape backdrop sticker
* cityscape pinblades
* black nickel plated gun mechanism
* wood grips
* repainted mongols and daggers

Still to go:
*install pin stadium
* install pinsound
Install new speakers
* install aurich translight
* install purple under cabinet lights
* install colour did
* install and swap to new playfield
* polish ramps
* new stickers for diverters
* plating of rails
* install backlighting for speaker panel
* capacitor replace circuit boards

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I don’t know about that powder color, doesn’t match anything on the game and looks out of place.

Where did you get the cabinet decals? I need a front decal.

*replace missing ring?
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/spareparts/the-shadow-rings.html

I would have preferred getting it powdercoated in dark blue, but the purple is what my wife wanted. At the end of the day, if I get to buy a pinball machine, but I need to compromise by putting purple powdercoat/flashers/underlight then it's a compromise I am willing to make for the greater good of owning a pinball machine

The decals are from:
https://pinballdecals.eu/shop/the-shadow-pinball-cabinet-decals-set/

I would express caution in only applying vinyl to one portion of cabinet as inevitably the colours will differ. Pics below show the differences in tone and hue.

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Thanks. I have one, but just need to screw in

I’m thinking that those guys make the decals for retro refurbs. They look very similar.

Did you have any “bleed” area at the edges?

The ones I got from Retro were so tight, they only just fitted. Like ... they didn’t need any trimming.

They should make them with an inch all the way around as not all cabinets are the same .. especially the ones that have start button emblems like CFTBL.

rd

It had quite a bit of bleed edge. I found using these decals with rapid tack worked well

wow this is a long thread. But I did, I finally joined the group. Mine arrives in a couple days and I am already compiling a list of mods I want. But unsure if I have missed any must haves...

LED pop bumper caps, unsure which color to go with...
Shadow knows flipper tops, Who sells these?
Side blade artwork
Aurich Translite (already purchased)
New chrome gun - Where can you get these?
Walnut gun handle from art - Already purchased
Apron Magnet from Bill - Already purchased.

welcome, you will not need pop bumper LEDs, flipper tops I think Tilt graphics as them, chrome gun exchange (chris royalty), I want side blade art for mine, but the playfield sits so tight in the cabinet I am afraid it will scuff it up.

What is this apron magnet??