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My ramps are finished (brass plating by Mike Chesnut) and I am very happy. I will post better pics when I have a chance. I am still installing the ramps and diverters. Does anyone have a pic of the type of allen wrench they use to tighten the set screws on the diverters? I am using a normal size allen with a cheater bar and did not know if there was a better tool or way to get the diveters adjusted properly? Sure is a PITA. I don't want to mess up the new plating with the diverter smashing into the side of the ramp. Not going well as the shaft has worn a bit from where the set screws were tightend before.

Damn. That's hot, definitely take more pics! I'm waiting on a chrome shooter from Mike right now, and it's got me thinking about doing at least my wireforms next.

I had my gun chromed and the wireforms brass plated by Mike Chestnut and it made a huge difference. I never thought about doing the ramps. That looks nice. Definitely watch out for the diverter hitting the ramps. It took some adjusting to limit the hits it took. I used a regular allen. I'm not sure if there is something better.

Thanks.

I will take more pics.

At the moment I am a bit frustrated with the reinstallation process!

Thank you. Yes it can be done but its a difficult space to work in given the design. Guess thats the fun of it?

An update on my personal dynamite comics translite.

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That is great. How is it made?

Do you a have a pic of just the shadow for the middle trainagle part without the women's face? Just my opinion but I would think that would be bad ass if that was bigger and basically the center piece of the translite.

PS: I still have a lot of love for Aurich's translite too.

I agree Aurich's translite is very nice.

Has anyone tried to repaint the phurba with gold paint or something similar?

BTW finished installing the ramps and no errors for which I am fortunate.

The Shadow is really a top 5 pin IMHO although I have not played all the A titles but most.

What will happen to the 50 original translites now floating around?

I imagine most people are keeping them in case they want to return the game to stock for a sale. I've seen some people try and sell them, but there's just no real demand. Poor Baldwin.

It's more than 50 BTW.

You should start a collection! Aurich would know of course but it's well more than 50 by now, right?

My guess is 200+

Heh, not quite yet. We'll see if it goes that far. It probably could if I took it outside of Pinside, but I dunno that I'm interested in that.

As soon as aurich stop making them value goes up

picture taken of my translite without flash.

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The Shadow kicks my butt more than any other game in my collection. It is so difficult and challenging which is a draw for my but I'm frustrates someone who wants a casual game.

Brian Eddy's best game!

Mike Chestnut chromed shooter installed.

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looks Wicked, would luv to do mine & all the ramps & wire form, cost a bomb i bet, worth getting the mounting bolts plated/polished IMHO

Yeah, I might mess with those at some point.

The left ramp diverter on my shadow gets a bit sticky and sluggish from time to time. Most of the time it works great but other times it will only go half way across or go too hard and bounce off the other side of the ramp.
Any ideas on a fix?

It also has the lx-4 gamecode, is this the right?

Can't wait to get mine back! Looks great in the pic, I'm sure even better in person!

I'd replace the coil sleeves first, and also check the linkage under the playfield for binding.

L-6 is the latest code. Get a new one from John Wart.

Could be loose hex screws holding the diverter. Replace with the hex caps like those used on flippers. Take one to Ace Hardware to get replacements.

Now you just need to make those pearlescent grips (and then tell the rest of us how you did it)!

I recently picked up one of those cityscape panels from eBay and am really digging it:

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Man, I tried again the other day. Came out terrible, super full of air bubbles. I think I probably need a vacuum chamber or something to get it really clean. I dunno, I'm just diving into resin casting blind, never done it before, so maybe I'm making some amateur move mistakes.

Oh nice. I'd be tempted to swap out those flasher domes for blue or yellow. No luck selling your Shadow yet?

How does one get in contact with John Wart?

Are you refering to the allen set screws that set and hold the position of the diverter? Are you able to post pics of the hex caps?

Thanks guys, although we don't have ace hardware here in aus.
I be will stripping the game down soon for a full clean and rebuild.
This will be my first attempt at doing this...........

Looks nice but can it still reach out and bruise your hip as you walk by? Mine is a mean mistress

Here's John's website:

http://www.thatpinballplace.com/eproms/index.htm

He's also active on Pinside:

http://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/johnwartjr

Heh, I think I've only actually done that once. And it might have been the Indiana Jones shooter I had on my virtual cab.

Yep. Out of all my games, I think The Shadow is the least popular when it comes to non-pinheads. The game just isn't very approachable.

Very nice

Do you have the diverter springs attached? My TS didn't have them and was a bit sluggish too, then one day I was looking at the diverter mechanism and saw there are two opposing hooks where each end of a spring was meant to be attached. Bought some from PSPA and all sorted now.

While my Shadow is going through it's restore I made a new topper for it, well actually I converted this from another style I had going but didn't pan out the way I would have liked it. There is no color changing to the wall, it is etched and lit with red leds. The eyes on the Shadow are cut out so some red light shines through. Here are some pics, if you would like one let me know I will have stock on a few in about 2 weeks, we have re-designed our base to be one piece so no more screws and the welding process is taking longer than expected.

$135.00 + shipping.

Joe

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EDIT: I described this poorly. I meant look at the screws holding the diverter rod below the playfield to the mech that turns the diverter rod.

Also, check the screws that are holding the diverter on the rod tha comes from below the playfield. They may seem tight but I've had them be slightly loose so the diverter head would act funny despite the rest of the mech working properly. Sometimes halfway, sometimes sticking and not moving.

Same as used in flipper mechs. Just google "hex cap screws." I can get pics if you want, but it is very straightforward. The Allen set screws are easy to strip and it's hard to get them to bite well enough. The hex caps protrude so even if the interior hex recess were to strip, you can still get plyers on them.

I've been looking at the different posts about lighting the mini-pf and I like the idea of the hidden spotlights pointing towards the player. However I think it would be really cool to only have them come on when the mini pf is active. Any thoughts on an easy way to make that work?

If some guru makes that mod, I'll take one

I think that you could do this with a simple flip-flop circuit that uses the kick er switch and whatever that activates when it falls out of the playfield. I think you could do this with mechanical relays or electrical nand gates pretty easily.
Getting a mechanical bistable latching relay is probably simplier than using gates and chips. I don't know the voltage the switches operate at or the wattage of your lights but you probably just need something as simple as this.

http://www.willow.co.uk/html/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/Duplicates/pdfs/DG76.pdf

http://www05.abb.com/global/scot/scot229.nsf/veritydisplay/539fc930aaf71461c12577ed002e44e3/$file/RXPSU.pdf

I don't think there is any switch for when it falls off, however most of the pf action is about 10-20 seconds long, so if there is a timer on it, it could go off after 20 seconds or so...not sure if it's worth ths trouble. one of the guys here put the spot light with yellow lights it was not enough to blind distract the player but provided a nice glow to the mini pf.

Dunno if that's me or someone else, I have one yellow and one red. Always on, you can play the Battlefield in a totally dark room. I never wish they would turn off while I'm playing the rest of the game. Might be a cool effect mind you, but having them on all the time isn't an issue.

Yeah, it was you Aurich, nice going, Iike the asthetics of the yellow/red.

Thank you

I ordered the part # for the set screws and Marco sent the screws with the torx safety head that work well.

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Finished. The left diveter has the NOS decal at 34.99 from pinball decals (they only had one left). The right diverter has the Marco 17.95 speacials.

That is quite a regal looking Shadow ...

Has anyone changed the plastic flipper opto interrupter?
I purchased a set of new ones, but because the Shadow has 2 buttons on each side, I couldn't get it to register correctly. The ones I have on there now seem to have less plastic on the 2 plastic parts that cross the opto board.
I just ended up putting the old ones back on, which were really worn out, which makes the buttons seem looser.

Thanks for any help/leads.