(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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There are 6418 posts in this topic. You are on page 115 of 129.
#5701 6 months ago

Regarding mantis ramps.

I don't want to bash any products but I have to give my experience. I bought a shadow for second time and a couple ramps had broken welds. The game came with new mantis ramps. I installed. I thought they played horrible. I had an ungodly amount of wire form jumps diverting right or slams into the ring bracket diverting left on the left ramp. I would even get wire form jumps on left divert of right ramp. I played like this for a while and tried every remedy. It was killing the game play bc ball would jump extended modified switch I have rigged up that is impossible not to register. See pic. I decided to weld up the old ramps myself. I replaced them and game plays flawlessly. Not one wire form jump. Switch registers everytime.

The mantis ramps have a very slight increase in pitch. The diverter has a gap between the ramp that the ball rolls in keeping it from riding up an launching over wire form. That gap is minimized with the greater pitch allowing the ball to travel up and launch.

The mantis ramps aren't cheap. A welder would weld yours for weed money. Either that or spend money on a harbor freight welder and do it yourself. I don't know shit about welding and I did it fine. Any birdshit will be on the bottom and not visible. Just wire wheel or grind the welds to clean them up a bit if worried about something you won't see. Weld from the bottom. Welds will be under.

See pics. One brown mark I didn't bother cleaning.

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#5702 6 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

- if you need new ramps they’re great but no better than the originals.
- not that I know of, especially if you have a good job done.
- pinblades are cool. The city ones fit the theme pretty well IMO, especially if you have the city backboard decal.
- I’m going with clear titan rings and already have light blue Titan flipper rubbers and color matched Cliffy posts on mine. This is really subjective tho, so you be you.
- I think the black nickel looks really good.
- Before you do a bunch of mods/upgrades, know what you have... if your cabinet/PF isn’t great, all the upgrades in the world won’t make it better so you’re probably better off making it play perfect than spending a bunch of cash dressing it up!

Thanks for the response

I've decided to go the whole nine yards with the shadow. I've ordered a "gold" standard clearcoat replacement playfield (paying someone to do the labor to replace it), as well as striping the decals, fixing the wood and replacing the decals. I'm also doing the pinsound and color DMD. I really love this pin and don't expect that I will ever get my money back from it, or that I will ever sell it, so I just want it to run as well as it can.

Stu

#5703 6 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

If your welds are broken on your original ramps, then the new mantis ones are absolutely worth it. They also have stainless ramp flaps on them which really modernize the look of the game.

Marco specialties, in my opinion has the best rubber quality. Grab a white kit. It has more bounce. I’m not a fan of silicone or colored rubber rings. They just don’t play right, and look tacky. If you MUST add a touch of color, purple flipper rubbers look pretty sharp.

I personally believe that they’re too distracting. I’m not a fan, but I can see the allure.

Again, not a fan of powder coating. I think the traditional stainless steel trim looks clean and timeless. I have seen black powder coating though, and that does look sharp. But as always, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Do what you like and enjoy the game!

Make sure the sanctum is protected. Wax and slap on a piece of Mylar. Keep your optos clean, and check the battlefield motor rack for damage. The metal bracket is infamous for being easily broken.
Have fun!

Marco specialties have a really great shop, but their shipping prices to Australia (where I live) are pretty high. I know that it might sound odd, but my intention with the rubbers is to get as close to the manufactured product when it was released as possible. I guess I am a 'light touch' kind of person when it comes to most pinball mods an upgrades. I don't like to stray too far from the factory look and feel of the original game (with the exception of the aurich mod). Are the titan pinbal silicone 'rubbers' replacement similar in play and look to the original rubbers that came with the game. If so, then I will likely order some black and red ones to match the look of the original. The titan option seems to hit the sweet spot of playing like the original, but not being as strenuous on cleaning.

The pin that I bought has blue rubbers on the flippers and to me it blends in to the background too much and I want to get it back to the red look of the factory model.

Stu

#5704 6 months ago

P.S as a newbie to this pin, does anyone here have any pro-tips on removing the upper playfield?

#5705 6 months ago

... outside of the prohibitive price, what is the general consensus of this thread when it comes to pinstadium (and its variants) on 'the shadow'?

#5706 6 months ago
Quoted from Stuieb84:

P.S as a newbie to this pin, does anyone here have any pro-tips on removing the upper playfield?

The left rubber (on the battlefield) has a black pin in the center that just needs to be taken out and then the whole thing flips up for access to the rest of it. (Marcos shipping is too expensive to ship to Canada as well btw)

#5707 6 months ago

Pinstadium is taste from person to person but I rarely enjoy them. They take away from the intended light show. I especially dislike them on games that have modes intended to be darkly lit. (First game I really noticed this was Metallica, Fade to Black mode)
Shadow just needs a spot light on the battlefield and shes good usually. My answer to "should I buy pinstadiums" usually comes down to "or turn your light up". Turning the light up is a really cheap mod and helps me see my games better lol

#5708 6 months ago

I'm a new owner. Just a couple gameplay q's. How am I lighting "shadow knows"? Is it always 10m or does it grow?
What does the target between the battlefield vuc and the ball lock wall do exactly. I'm having a hard time figuring it out. I feel like it has given me Khan letters or mongol letters but it hard to tell mid gameplay.
Thanks

#5709 6 months ago

Watch this tutorial. It will give you a good overview of the rules and gameplay.

#5710 6 months ago

I have. It doesn't answer my questions

#5711 6 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

I'm a new owner. Just a couple gameplay q's. How am I lighting "shadow knows"? Is it always 10m or does it grow?
What does the target between the battlefield vuc and the ball lock wall do exactly. I'm having a hard time figuring it out. I feel like it has given me Khan letters or mongol letters but it hard to tell mid gameplay.
Thanks

Check out the manual. It answers all of these questions.

#5712 6 months ago

Wow
Real community vibe in this thread.

#5713 6 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Wow
Real community vibe in this thread.

There is. Currently out and about right now, so can’t go into all the detail.

Shadow Knows value is random.

Target in center adds a Mongol letter.

#5714 6 months ago

Hello, I just got a shadow and the backbox sound isn’t working in both speakers. I have sound through the sub, but none in backbox. I checked all the wiring and it looks good. Any idea what it could be?? Thank you for your time!

#5715 6 months ago
Quoted from Stuieb84:

P.S as a newbie to this pin, does anyone here have any pro-tips on removing the upper playfield?

Sorry! Didn't notice your location when recommending rubber. I have no experience with Titan rings, but I hear they're good. Either way, I'm a big fan of just regular white rubber, regardless of where it comes from.

As for the upper playfield, there's a thumb screw on the left between the left ring. Unscrew and it tilts up. If you want to remove the whole thing from the game, you'll want to label the connectors under the playfield that run to the battlefield (if I recall, they're all uniquely keyed, however I always label them with a number and some tape just to make it fool proof), then I think it's just a matter of removing 3 screws from the backside, and the whole assembly lifts right out.

I agree with Graysonsdad with regards to the pinstadium. Makes things too bright and takes away from a lot of the lightshows. It's totally subjective though, and I'm usually against most anything that goes against what the game originally had-but that's just me. Heck, I don't even use LEDs in my games. I prefer the look to LEDs, and I like to keep the dimming effect the GI has.

Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Is it always 10m or does it grow?

If you're always getting 10M, your game might be set to "tournament mode." Who knows is supposed to be a random award, but is equalized when set to tournament play.

#5716 6 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

If you're always getting 10M, your game might be set to "tournament mode." Who knows is supposed to be a random award, but is equalized when set to tournament play.

Thanks. How am I lighting it though? Shadow loops?
Another question. Are the modes selected at random or is there a way to change which mode will be selected next?

#5717 6 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

How am I lighting it though?

You light it by starting a mongol attack.

The first mode is selected at random, but you can change the lit mode by shooting either ramp.

#5718 6 months ago

The new clear coat gold level playfield arrived in the mail. This thing is like glass. The photos don't do it justice- I had no idea it would turn out so well.

20190520_210027 (resized).jpg20190520_210105 (resized).jpg
#5719 6 months ago
Quoted from Stuieb84:

Thanks for the response
I've decided to go the whole nine yards with the shadow. I've ordered a "gold" standard clearcoat replacement playfield (paying someone to do the labor to replace it), as well as striping the decals, fixing the wood and replacing the decals. I'm also doing the pinsound and color DMD. I really love this pin and don't expect that I will ever get my money back from it, or that I will ever sell it, so I just want it to run as well as it can.
Stu

Nice dude! Post lots of pix! And welcome to the Shadow family.

#5720 6 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

I'm a new owner. Just a couple gameplay q's. How am I lighting "shadow knows"? Is it always 10m or does it grow?
What does the target between the battlefield vuc and the ball lock wall do exactly. I'm having a hard time figuring it out. I feel like it has given me Khan letters or mongol letters but it hard to tell mid gameplay.
Thanks

http://pinball.org/rules/shadow.html

This will answer a lot of rules questions. Shadow Knows comes from spelling MONGOL I believe. Target by battlefield spots a letter. It's not something I actively shoot for so not sure. KHAN letters advances your bonus multiplier and lights Khan MB. My strategy is typically trying to start modes and completing the battlefield early to get extra ball. I try to start a MB with a mode running and go for shadow loops when I can. If you get three shadow loops in a row you get an extra ball. You can also get an extra ball in video mode - just make sure to use the gun trigger about halfway through to make sure you get it. Vengeance Mode is fun but not worth the risk if trying to complete the scarf.

#5721 6 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

http://pinball.org/rules/shadow.html
This will answer a lot of rules questions. Shadow Knows comes from spelling MONGOL I believe. Target by battlefield spots a letter. It's not something I actively shoot for so not sure. KHAN letters advances your bonus multiplier and lights Khan MB. My strategy is typically trying to start modes and completing the battlefield early to get extra ball. I try to start a MB with a mode running and go for shadow loops when I can. If you get three shadow loops in a row you get an extra ball. You can also get an extra ball in video mode - just make sure to use the gun trigger about halfway through to make sure you get it. Vengeance Mode is fun but not worth the risk if trying to complete the scarf.

Thanks. I beat the Phurba video for the first time last night. It will be much easier if the gun (I'm assuming here) kills incoming phubas AFM saucer mode style.
I'll have to go for the shadow loop extra ball. Didnt know that one.

#5722 6 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Thanks. I beat the Phurba video for the first time last night. It will be much easier if the gun (I'm assuming here) kills incoming phubas AFM saucer mode style.
I'll have to go for the shadow loop extra ball. Didnt know that one.

Gun will wipe out all phurbas for a short time. However, mode will get much tougher after they reappear. Best to time it near the end or right before extra ball appears. Important thing for me is getting that extra ball.

It's worth trying the left orbit and shadow loop combo. Starts out at 10 million then +3million for following combos for rest of game. Very hard to get three in a row, though. Not sure how you do it other than repeated shots, but orbits can become 20 million for each shot, too.

#5723 6 months ago

I'm looking to join the club and swap an HUO Maiden Pro for a Shadow + a bit of cash. Willing to drive a few hours to make it happen!

#5724 6 months ago

I asked this awile back and really didn’t get an answer. Has anyone chrome plated the habitrails in the Shadow? Never been much of a fan of the brass. I know people say it fits the game, but I am curious how chrome would look on it. Anyone done it that provide some pics?

#5725 6 months ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

I asked this awile back and really didn’t get an answer. Has anyone chrome plated the habitrails in the Shadow? Never been much of a fan of the brass. I know people say it fits the game, but I am curious how chrome would look on it. Anyone done it that provide some pics?

I chrome plated some for a shadow one time so I know it's been done. I never saw a final picture of it. Black nickel would probably look good also

#5726 6 months ago

Day 6.
Made it to final battle.
3 damn shots away from defeating Khan. (Battlefield was completed)
Such a fun game.

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#5727 6 months ago

Who's good at hitting the upper loop and saucer?
I can maybe hit it 1 out of 10 tries.
My flipper is aligned to barely rest on the ball guide behind it, perhaps my game needs to be re-leveled?

That being said, I can hit the battlefield shot pretty consistently from the upper flipper

#5728 6 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

I chrome plated some for a shadow one time so I know it's been done. I never saw a final picture of it. Black nickel would probably look good also

I’m on the list to get that black chrome battlefield protector, the habitrails would probably look amazing in the black nickel or black chrome to match.

#5729 6 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

Who's good at hitting the upper loop and saucer?
I can maybe hit it 1 out of 10 tries.
My flipper is aligned to barely rest on the ball guide behind it, perhaps my game needs to be re-leveled?
That being said, I can hit the battlefield shot pretty consistently from the upper flipper

Same here. Problem for me is that the ball goes extremely fast around the orbit/loop. Sometimes it catches the post about the upper flipper and slows it down and sometimes it doesn't. Regular mb is pointless because it's so hard to hit that loop and then it's only 20m when you do.

#5730 6 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

Who's good at hitting the upper loop and saucer?
I can maybe hit it 1 out of 10 tries.
My flipper is aligned to barely rest on the ball guide behind it, perhaps my game needs to be re-leveled?
That being said, I can hit the battlefield shot pretty consistently from the upper flipper

My loop champion score is 5... and I feel that was a fluke. I can consistently do it 2 or 3 times at max... I'm still not sure how I did it 5 times.

#5731 6 months ago
Quoted from damadczar:

My loop champion score is 5... and I feel that was a fluke. I can consistently do it 2 or 3 times at max... I'm still not sure how I did it 5 times.

Well now I don't feel so bad!
I can get 2 loops in decently often, but after that it just gets too fast!
Maybe I should throw down some sand in the loop to slow it down a bit.

#5732 6 months ago
Quoted from Stuieb84:

The new clear coat gold level playfield arrived in the mail. This thing is like glass. The photos don't do it justice- I had no idea it would turn out so well.[quoted image][quoted image]

Make sure you put some mylar by the sanctum wall. It don't long to get divits there.

#5733 6 months ago

I kept getting broken welds on this ramp, so I put this on to strengthen the entry. Works very well. Been there for a couple of years without any issue.

Using four screws keeps it solidly together.
shadow_new_design_ramp_guard (resized).jpg

shadow_modified_ramp_guard-lh (resized).jpg

#5734 6 months ago

Is it homemade ? My right ramp is more a ball orbiter than a ramp. If I really align my shot with the left flipper, ball fly away downtown in the back of the playfield. That might fix this issue.

#5735 6 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Make sure you put some mylar by the sanctum wall. It don't long to get divits there.

Do you still think it needs/warrants mylar for the magnet section, even with the new clear coat playfield? My main concern is a long lasting pinball machine, so I'm happy to. I just wasn't sure how well it would play, with the change of texture in that section, or if it would interfere with the magnet

#5736 6 months ago

I would. It’s a pretty notorious spot for wear right to the wood.

#5737 6 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:Is it homemade ? My right ramp is more a ball orbiter than a ramp. If I really align my shot with the left flipper, ball fly away downtown in the back of the playfield. That might fix this issue.

Are you talking about this one?
tom-rh-shield2 (resized).jpgtom-rh-shield (resized).jpg

#5738 6 months ago
Quoted from Stuieb84:

Do you still think it needs/warrants mylar for the magnet section, even with the new clear coat playfield? My main concern is a long lasting pinball machine, so I'm happy to. I just wasn't sure how well it would play, with the change of texture in that section, or if it would interfere with the magnet

Please put Mylar on. Your ball wont know the difference.

#5739 6 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I have a few Shadow Cityscape decals remaining. Please PM if interested:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/73433
And thank you to everyone who already bought one for the overwhelming positive support!
[quoted image][quoted image]

... any chance I could order (and pay the extra cost) to deliver to Australia?

#5740 6 months ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Are you talking about this one?
[quoted image][quoted image]

yes sir !

#5741 5 months ago
Quoted from Stuieb84:

... any chance I could order (and pay the extra cost) to deliver to Australia?

I would ship to Australia, but Unfortunately I’m all sold out of decals. A number of people seem to want them so I’m considering another print run. Please let me know if you’d like to be added to the list.

#5742 5 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I would ship to Australia, but Unfortunately I’m all sold out of decals. A number of people seem to want them so I’m considering another print run. Please let me know if you’d like to be added to the list.

I want to be put on that list please. $30 is a steal!

#5743 5 months ago
Quoted from NPO:

I want to be put on that list please. $30 is a steal!

Great, I'll put you on the list!

#5744 5 months ago
Quoted from Stuieb84:

Do you still think it needs/warrants mylar for the magnet section, even with the new clear coat playfield? My main concern is a long lasting pinball machine, so I'm happy to. I just wasn't sure how well it would play, with the change of texture in that section, or if it would interfere with the magnet

Mylar that area for sure. I have a small mylar placed over a larger area mylar, doesn't affect play.

#5745 5 months ago
Quoted from Sammy31:

Mylar that area for sure. I have a small mylar placed over a larger area mylar, doesn't affect play.

Any other parts of the playfield worth protecting with mylar?

#5746 5 months ago

Both of the drops from the wireforms.

#5747 5 months ago

Starting to get there with my full shadow restore and renovation. Stripping decals, repainting the backbox, pinblades installed, repainted mongols, purple flashers, repainting the coin mechanism, and installing the color dmd

20190525_113159 (resized).jpg20190525_170043 (resized).jpg
#5748 5 months ago
Quoted from Stuieb84:

Starting to get there with my full shadow restore and renovation. Stripping decals, repainting the backbox, pinblades installed, repainted mongols, purple flashers, repainting the coin mechanism, and installing the color dmd[quoted image][quoted image]

Where are you sourcing the cab decals? Also what did the ColourDMD set you back?

#5749 5 months ago

Does anyone know of a video out there on how to best take apart the ramps?
My left ramp needs a couple welds. I was going to leave it for now but while changing my rubbers I accidentally knocked off one of the wires going to the entry opto. Since I now need to also get in there to get to the opto I figure now is the time to take it all apart and take it to a weld shop. Thanks

#5750 5 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Does anyone know of a video out there on how to best take apart the ramps?
My left ramp needs a couple welds. I was going to leave it for now but while changing my rubbers I accidentally knocked off one of the wires going to the entry opto. Since I now need to also get in there to get to the opto I figure now is the time to take it all apart and take it to a weld shop. Thanks

I believe you remove the divertors first. Loosen or remove the wire ramps and then the screws holding the metal ramps. Its not that difficult

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