I took a quick look at the outter and inner corners of it and everything looks intact. Overall the wood seems to be in pretty good shape.

Just so I’m clear, are you talking about the space between the metal back of the switch and the wood?

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I think so, doesn't look like a lot of room. Will putz with mine on Thursday.

On a side note, I noticed even when I move my left ramp right direction switch out with lexan it still isn't registering all my skill shots. I know the switch is registering as I put it in test mode and make multiple flipper shots to verify. I will try to move the switch out further but don't want it to look stupid. I also added the four in switch blade. I'm starting to thing that CPU can't process a super fast shot as it gets confused because ramp entrance opto and that switch trigger so fast after one another? My switch blade reaches clear across the wire form. Nothing is getting past it without registering it.

Just dropping by, hope everyone in Shadow land is doing well! I got one myself we are working on at the moment.

If anyone needs plating for their game, let me know. I have several wireform sets ready in brass at all times, to exchange. Just send yours in and I'll send a set back ready to go. Here is the link: http://www.pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts/bally-shadow

Same with the gun: http://www.pinballplating.com/quick-exchange-parts/shadow-gun

Glad to help if I can.
Chris
[email protected] -- please email not Pinside message
www.pinballplating.com

Chris, will you be at TPF again this year?

My Shadow has some color matched bulbs behind the translite. I’m getting set to swap in an Aurich translite and was wondering if anyone can show how they arranged the bulbs behind their Aurich translite if they do too?

I went with all Comet Sunlight. I tried a few colour LED combinations behind the eyes, logo and lamp post, but did not like the look as it washed out other colours.

I'd suggest not color bombing it. Keep it simple, use Sunlight or Natural white bulbs.

I put the a slow blinking one behind the street light, but other than that all natural white.

It's not looking like it at the moment. We have so much going on here, I think I'll be staying back on this one. I'm not planning on doing booths so much in the days ahead, but do plan to go to shows and will be willing to take things etc.

I second this. I found that Sunlight is the perfect color temp for The Shadow. I went with all frosted Sunlight in my backbox and GI and it looks fantastic. It's probably personal taste, but I never find that color bombing the backbox works out well. The backglass was designed to have warm incandescents behind it.

It wasn’t really color bombed, but there was some blue in there as well as green behind the logo, and some warm white behind Alec’s face. I ended up moving the blue off to the sides, removing the green altogether, and the warm white went up to The Shadow’s face. It’ll be fine until my next LED order.

For reference, this is my backglass with only comet sunlight whites.

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I added color changing flex heads by the buildings in the background.
The Sunlight frosted 2835 wash enough of it out, so that it looks like explosions, or gunfire
far in the background. A White blinking bulb will do same, but I like the subtle affect.

Oh, and a self frosted top only flat top in warm for the street light, or a blinking bulb....

One can add green for the letters, or red for the scarf, but its not a huge difference.

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Yah I really like how yours turned out. The bendy bulbs are a really good idea actually.

That is a very elegant looking Shadow

You even have the Cityscape decal!

I lit my alt translite up very similar. I used some colors to enhance the sunset, scarf, and blue in the sky but not much. I do recommend removing some of the bulbs in the middle. Looks better when the Shadow character is not lit up so bright. More shadowy lol.

Short update of my black plastic replacement. All parts are laser cutted and bended.
The first one is welded. I have changed to 1,5mm stainless steel. The next to weeks this part get black chrome.
And I get the first decal for the battlefield. It is not a plastic, it is laser engraved metal.

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Have you settled on a price for this? When you are done with it I will get both this and the TZ switch kit at the same time.

Not a final price. I have not the final price for black chrome. But it will be between 60 and 70 Euro + shipping.

Hmm, maybe you should make a batch and try to sell them to a US supplier like PinballLife or Marco

EDIT: spelling

Count me in!

If you’re making a list, count me in too.

You are both already on my interested list

Me too, please!

Looks amazing!! Part no.'s?

https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2fluxrgb-w.htm

I'm interested too...

Following up on my shadow battlefield plunger issue. Replaced that small opto board under playfield. Problem solved!!!!

Question for all of you here...

I am considering the Shadow as my first pin. I'm not afraid of maintenance and repair, but it will likely be my only pin (for at least a while) and I'm curious to how everyone feels about the relative amount of work that this machine would need relative to others of a similar age/price-range. I was really wanting a Star Trek: The Next Generation, but warned that it could be a headache to upkeep.

So, would you consider this a good pin for a newbie?

Short answer, no. While games like ST:TNG and TZ are very well known to be difficult to keep working, The Shadow can be difficult. Also, certain parts pertaining to the diverters are unobtainable. A seasoned collector who has no problem troubleshooting and repairing issues will find the Shadow to be fairly straight forward. But I would not recommend it to someone as their first pin. Get a solid state game that has already been bulletproofed, or a used Stern from the last 10-15 years.

Forgot to list the potential trouble spots. The magnet lock/wall target. The diverters. The Battlefield. To a lesser degree, the actual ball lock area. Also the ball launch can be difficult to get dialed in.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/planning-on-buying-1st-pin-advice#post-4816843

I wouldn't be put off by any maintenance rumors. If you find a pin that is well maintained and in good shape, it should be fine. All pins end up needing some maintenance and any pin can have it's headaches - even NIB pins. Issues are typically the same no matter what the pin. Once you work out all the issues, most pins are fairly trouble free. You just need to be comfortable getting under the playfield, taking things apart, and basic soldering. I've heard STTNG has a lot of optos that can get flaky. If you replace all the transmitters then that takes care of most of the headaches.

I highly recommend getting the pin you enjoy the most. If you really like STTNG, get one - you will not regret it. Shadow is a great pin but not sure it's the best in a one pin lineup. It's a tough game and can get pretty frustrating, especially for novices.

It is possible that I am trying to get people to justify me making a bad decision

Different opinion here... I chose Shadow as my first (and only to date pin) and haven't looked back. I highly recommend - Potentially Brian Eddy's best.

I break it down here and answer your question: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-game-for-a-one-pin-collection/page/2#post-3895262

In short, as long as you check the battlefield and diverters that they work before you buy, you should be good. The ball lock is an easy fix (and generally a superficial issue anyway).

Hope this helps!

My story: The Getaway was my 1st pin, it was cheap back when I bought it and there were plenty made so finding parts wasn't an issue. I owned it for 12 years before I bought an EATPM. The Shadow was my 4th and my latest purchase, I currently have 3 (my max).
I had the party zone which I sold to fund the Shadow.

PZ, is simple and it got boring fast, the Getaway is fun but it's simple, most would have moved on long before but it was my 1st and it's in great shape. EATPM, is great, super solid system 11 but rules are simple. TS on the other hand is tough, has lots if toys and a better rules set. TS would have been a great 1st pin, especially if you're going to be adding pins.

Maintenance and issues can tricky on any of my machines but the EATPM would be the easiest to repair. The issue in my mind is lasting power and TS has that over many pins and is still affordable. I would say if it's a good example it's a great pin and if you do t like it, the Tesla value is high.

The first game you purchase will always be overwhelming. Pick what you want.

Shadow was my second pin and lasted the longest before I sold it and I turn pins fast. I recently bought another after having cycled through most of the older B/W titles. It isn't going anywhere. I believe all the diverter parts are now available? Regardless, the piece that mainly goes bad is the diverter shaft or the piece that holds it into place. I recently bought that part from pinball life to get my diverters up to snuff. As long as the diverters are there they can be welded. The game isn't that complex, at least not compared to a STTNG. Even that game is manageable once you understand it. With pinside as a great resource and your willingness to fix things you shouldn't have a problem.

A valid point already mentioned is that it isn't a game most of the public will flock to. It is pinheads game. The diverters confuse the casual player. However, if you aren't buying to please others it is a fast, brutal, badass game with great sounds and game play that will keep you hitting the start button over and over again. It's a heartless bitch that will stomp on your soul and keep you begging for more. I finally got mine dialed in and my pinball friends are anxious to come over tonight to play it.

Please add me to the 100% interested and keen list

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So here was my solution for the Aurich translite lighting. The purple works great for the night sky, the warm white bendies are used in the light areas around The Shadow, and I left most of The Shadows mass unlit. Looks better in person than my iPad camera can capture.

Single bulb cool white frosted are perfect for the alternative translate.

Looking for a Shadow - somewhere in the Western US. PM me if you are ready to change up your line-up

put me on that list as well, these are awesome!

Add me to the list please, definitely want this.
Cheers

Does anyone else use an in-line fuse on your magnet?
I installed one and it keeps blowing (2A SB).

Magnet works just fine without the inline fuse.
I've rebuilt my fliptronics board (new BR and C1 cap).
Plus driver board has had complete cap/BR rebuild.
All voltages in line with where they should be.

Anyone ever experience this problem? Or have an idea?
Unless I've got a wonky transistor on the fliptronics board or my magnet is on the way out?

Thoughts?

I’m restoring my Shadow and am torn between buying a restored playfield or a new reproduction. Any strong feelings or recommendations on either option? Thanks!
E

Pretty hard to beat new.

I recently restored a Shadow with a new playfield from CPR. If you have the money, you can't beat it. Also, the playfields allow you to light up the cab headlights. I know, not a big deal but still looks great. Everyone that comes over just loves the way it looks and plays.

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I think somebody else posted their repro and the headlights on the taxi can be lit underneath... that's a pretty hot reason to go repro right there if you're replacing the playfield.

EDIT - ha! he posted a pic as I was posting... Look at that.

This is my list, I hope I dont forget anybody. Now the list is closed, I have made 29 pieces, the rest is for german people.
If you are interested, I can make a waiting list.

Sascha