(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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There are 5840 posts in this topic. You are on page 107 of 117.
#5301 4 months ago
Quoted from Scoot:

It is not supposed to fire while moving unless triggered by the opto. In test mode everything checks out?

Yes, says mini playfield is fine. I think they mini pf test only checks movement of armeture. All good there. Checked flipper coil diodes and for the life of me can't get that opto switch to trigger in test mode unless broken. I notice this board under playfield triggers the switch if I unplug one of the three connectors but if all plugged in and jiggling wires, nothing, which is good. No loose connections. I'm at a serious loss here and sort of bummed.

#5302 4 months ago
Quoted from Scoot:

It is not supposed to fire while moving unless triggered by the opto. In test mode everything checks out?

Yes, says mini playfield is fine. I think they mini pf test only checks movement of armeture. All good there. Checked flipper coil diodes and for the life of me can't get that opto switch to trigger in test mode unless broken. I notice this board under playfield triggers the switch if I unplug one of the three connectors but if all plugged in and jiggling wires, nothing, which is good. No loose connections. I'm at a serious loss here and sort of bummed.

I literally changed flipper opto board out of desperation. In addition I removed the playfield optos and connected with a straw so nothing could break beam, flippers still fire plunger randomly. Checked all connections in back box. Put game in single switch test in switch 36 so it will beep if triggered. Fucked around with everything above and below playfield and in back box to try to trigger switch. Nothing. Wtf. Are you sure the plunger shouldn't fire randomly? I'm obsessive about game playing correctly and this drives me nuts. Half tempted to sell game and I just got it. Fuck this Pos. So pissed.

20190202_075301 (resized).jpg
#5303 4 months ago

I would change the opto if you have not tried yet. Also ..is there any added lighting? That could be triggering the opto somehow?

#5304 4 months ago

I had a different but similar problem with my Shadow when I first got it. Remove the thumbscrew and raise up the mini playfield. Very closely inspect the bundle of wires that go towards the back. They can rest on a metal plate and movement and vibrations can cause the insulation on the wires to get skinned off. I had 3 wires skinned and they were intermittently touching the metal and causing some weird opto issues.

#5305 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Yes, says mini playfield is fine. I think they mini pf test only checks movement of armeture. All good there. Checked flipper coil diodes and for the life of me can't get that opto switch to trigger in test mode unless broken. I notice this board under playfield triggers the switch if I unplug one of the three connectors but if all plugged in and jiggling wires, nothing, which is good. No loose connections. I'm at a serious loss here and sort of bummed.
I literally changed flipper opto board out of desperation. In addition I removed the playfield optos and connected with a straw so nothing could break beam, flippers still fire plunger randomly. Checked all connections in back box. Put game in single switch test in switch 36 so it will beep if triggered. Fucked around with everything above and below playfield and in back box to try to trigger switch. Nothing. Wtf. Are you sure the plunger shouldn't fire randomly? I'm obsessive about game playing correctly and this drives me nuts. Half tempted to sell game and I just got it. Fuck this Pos. So pissed.[quoted image]

Since it's broken I will give you 1500.00 dollars for it.

Does it only act up with the glass on?

#5306 4 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

I would change the opto if you have not tried yet. Also ..is there any added lighting? That could be triggering the opto somehow?

Opto looks like it's been changed but works perfectly. I spent an hour and a half fucking with this thing in switch test. I raised mini playfield, wiggled every connector looking for busted solder joints. I guess last resort is I swap out my cpu and Power driver with my I500. Ugh. So annoying.

#5307 4 months ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I had a different but similar problem with my Shadow when I first got it. Remove the thumbscrew and raise up the mini playfield. Very closely inspect the bundle of wires that go towards the back. They can rest on a metal plate and movement and vibrations can cause the insulation on the wires to get skinned off. I had 3 wires skinned and they were intermittently touching the metal and causing some weird opto issues.

I'll check again in a bit. Kids waking up now.

#5308 4 months ago

Just found a weird anomaly.....when I switch the diverter direction (both left and right ramp) 10,000 points accumulate every time I switch them so they divert to the right.....Sup with that?

#5309 4 months ago

Wonder if you have a switch triggering from the vibrations?

#5310 4 months ago

Replaced both optos and the wires connecting opto to board under playfield, same shit.

#5311 4 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Wonder if you have a switch triggering from the vibrations?

I was thinking this too. How would I figure out which one is causing it? Maybe start with the switches that award 10,000 point. The weird thing is it's happening on both ramps....It also awards 10,000 when you pull the trigger and launch a ball.

#5312 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

I was thinking this too. How would I figure out which one is causing it? Maybe start with the switches that award 10,000 point. The weird thing is it's happening on both ramps....It also awards 10,000 when you pull the trigger and launch a ball.

Goto switch test and rattle the machine and see if any of the squares start blinking

#5313 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Opto looks like it's been changed but works perfectly. I spent an hour and a half fucking with this thing in switch test. I raised mini playfield, wiggled every connector looking for busted solder joints. I guess last resort is I swap out my cpu and Power driver with my I500. Ugh. So annoying.

If brand new optos,then definately a bad solder joint or loose wire. I would say goto switch test and rattle the machine a bit. I read on here about a person turning on a shaker motor with switch test and revealed that.
One other thing . I had a opto problem with a different machine and checked everything. Turned out to be corrosion on cpu board. Worked fine after I cleaned it. If you have spare cpu board,swap it and see what happens . Can't hurt

#5314 4 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Goto switch test and rattle the machine and see if any of the squares start blinking

Found it.....broken solder on an opto. Thank you again!

On to my next question! This diverter doesn't go all the way over and sometimes stops the ball. Is this a classic "remove and rebuild" scenario or can the diverter be adjusted? I'm sure somewhere in this group there is a post on how to adjust, if necessary......

IMG_2257 (resized).jpg
#5315 4 months ago

It can be adjusted with set screws at the base of the diverter shaft, but first thing is to make sure that the mechanism is moving correctly. I had the same issue and turns out it was dragging because of some loose hardware.

#5316 4 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

If brand new optos,then definately a bad solder joint or loose wire. I would say goto switch test and rattle the machine a bit. I read on here about a person turning on a shaker motor with switch test and revealed that.
One other thing . I had a opto problem with a different machine and checked everything. Turned out to be corrosion on cpu board. Worked fine after I cleaned it. If you have spare cpu board,swap it and see what happens . Can't hurt

I think it could be a loose wire or something not soldered all the way as well. My optos were very finiky until I reflowed/cleaned them (I know you replaced them new though)
I wonder if they measure a solid 12v when using the upper PF though, (maybe you can meter them while someone controls the flippers)

One last thing I had where I would get random fires - It turned out that the kicker arm was not fully retracting 100% of the time for me. What would happen was it was just enough that the yellow piece would still somehow break the optos from time to time. I ended up replacing the coil sleeve and it never happened again (turns out the sleeve was chewed up a bit on the inside because the whole thing was loose to begin with.)

Either way, don't give up man!

#5317 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Found it.....broken solder on an opto. Thank you again!
On to my next question! This diverter doesn't go all the way over and sometimes stops the ball. Is this a classic "remove and rebuild" scenario or can the diverter be adjusted? I'm sure somewhere in this group there is a post on how to adjust, if necessary......[quoted image]

binding somewhere or set screws are not fully tight. Loosen them and re-adjust them. Make sure that it not touching the sides of the ramp when you tighten them. If it constantly slaps the sides, it will eventually break the spotwelds

#5318 4 months ago

Is there a fix for the start scene eject? Mine ejects the ball across to the wall and it bounces back in and repeats for a while. Sometimes it eats up to 10+ seconds into my scene!

#5319 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Is there a fix for the start scene eject? Mine ejects the ball across to the wall and it bounces back in and repeats for a while. Sometimes it eats up to 10+ seconds into my scene!

It's supposed to do that.

Not really Does it seem more about the angle or is it a higher speed? If the latter, are you sure you have the right solenoid on the saucer?

#5320 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Is there a fix for the start scene eject? Mine ejects the ball across to the wall and it bounces back in and repeats for a while. Sometimes it eats up to 10+ seconds into my scene!

My Shadow was doing the same thing.
I bent the solenoid bracket toward the backbox about 1/8" and it ejects fine now.

#5321 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Is there a fix for the start scene eject? Mine ejects the ball across to the wall and it bounces back in and repeats for a while. Sometimes it eats up to 10+ seconds into my scene!

Which hole? Left or right. Occasionly the left saucer will kick out, bouce off the top flipper and go back inside. The right saucer should not kick the ball back in.

#5322 4 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Which hole? Left or right. Occasionly the left saucer will kick out, bouce off the top flipper and go back inside. The right saucer should not kick the ball back in.

Right hole. I’ll try onemoresean’s fix and see about adjusting the bracket. While I’m under there, I’ll get the #’s in the solenoid to see if it’s the correct one. What part number should it be?

#5323 4 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

If brand new optos,then definately a bad solder joint or loose wire. I would say goto switch test and rattle the machine a bit. I read on here about a person turning on a shaker motor with switch test and revealed that.
One other thing . I had a opto problem with a different machine and checked everything. Turned out to be corrosion on cpu board. Worked fine after I cleaned it. If you have spare cpu board,swap it and see what happens . Can't hurt

Swapped cpu and mpu without much fixing. It is a little better but still does it. Only other thing to change is the two dedicated opto boards under playfield. I wonder if a broken wire to the solenoid would cause this. Maybe the solenoid fires when power is interrupted and connected again?

#5324 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Swapped cpu and mpu without much fixing. It is a little better but still does it. Only other thing to change is the two dedicated opto boards under playfield. I wonder if a broken wire to the solenoid would cause this. Maybe the solenoid fires when power is interrupted and connected again?

It appears through all your trouble shooting that the wiring would be suspect. A shorted or broken wire may indeed cause these issues. I would still lean toward to the optos causing the solenoid to fire. Intermittent signals perhaps. I am looking forward to your reply of "I found it!" so keep us posted.

#5325 4 months ago
Quoted from Scoot:

It appears through all your trouble shooting that the wiring would be suspect. A shorted or broken wire may indeed cause these issues. I would still lean toward to the optos causing the solenoid to fire. Intermittent signals perhaps. I am looking forward to your reply of "I found it!" so keep us posted.

My only other option is to replace the 10 opto board under the playfield which I have in I500. The only other board would be that 24 opto board dedicated to that particular opto switch. Might have to send that in to Chris Hilber with some other boards. Other than that I would think it would have to be wires going to the solenoid maybe? I have no clue. I'm neurotic about my games playing perfectly but at some point you just give up as anyone off the streets wouldn't be able to tell there is an issue.

#5326 4 months ago

This Shadow Cityscape decal run is wrapping up and I have a couple remaining. Please PM if interested:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/73433

decal 1 (resized).jpegDecal 2 (resized).jpeg
#5327 4 months ago

One last Ditch effort, I recorded the optos, you can clearly see they are never broken or flicker. I swap the fliptronics board just to be safe although I believe the issue may be the opto board dedicated to switch 36 under playfield. Everything looks good on it. May have to send in to double check.

#5328 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

One last Ditch effort, I recorded the optos, you can clearly see they are never broken or flicker. I swap the fliptronics board just to be safe although I believe the issue may be the opto board dedicated to switch 36 under playfield. Everything looks good on it. May have to send in to double check.

Would be good to swap the opto boards although it is strange that it only misfires when the kicker is being moved left or right (almost as if there is a wire related issue somewhere)

#5329 4 months ago

Just throwing up ideas. I once had an issue with a pin where I reseated all connectors in the back box including ribbon cables and the problem went away. That is sometimes the first thing I will check and do when confronted with a head scratcher of a problem.

#5330 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Would be good to swap the opto boards although it is strange that it only misfires when the kicker is being moved left or right (almost as if there is a wire related issue somewhere)

Thinking the same thing. I forget exactly but know there are optos under upper pf that help control the paddle. Could be issues with these optos that trigger other opto events. Do you have the switch test on screen while doing this? You should be able to see which switches/optos are firing.

#5331 4 months ago

Here is all that I have done.
1. Changed optos for that switch with new ones.
2. Swapped mpu, pdb, fliptronics board so all connectors have been reseated.
3. Connected optos with a straw so nothing can break the opto, still does it.
4. Replaced wire and connector running to opto.
5. Single switch test mode. Fire flippers and checkef every switch to see if I could get switch 36 to fire. Nothing.
6. Removed upper playfield twice, everything looks fine.
7. Maybe I should buy a new rom?
8. The only culprit left is that board under playfield dedicated to switch 36. I removed it, everything looks fine. I can send it in to determine if bad but I'm not counting of it.

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#5332 4 months ago

I looked back through the threads and did not notice where you reflowed any solder on the boards. I have fixed many problems doing this. Sometimes you can't see cold solder joints but they are there. Every machine I have owned had them... eventually. Don't give up! I'd start with that board you pictured above.

#5333 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Would be good to swap the opto boards although it is strange that it only misfires when the kicker is being moved left or right (almost as if there is a wire related issue somewhere)

The wiring for the kicker solenoid definitely takes a beating. I had to replace the last foot or so of wiring to get mine working.

#5334 4 months ago

I would also replace the capacitors on the opto board while you're in there.
Mine was causing a random row to short out that included the slam tilt, took me months to trace it to that.

#5335 4 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

I would also replace the capacitors on the opto board while you're in there.
Mine was causing a random row to short out that included the slam tilt, took me months to trace it to that.

Yep I noticed the caps as well and @Djshakes indicated that this is board is only used for that specific opto, it makes me wonder whether that board is the issue. Unfortunately not a common board although there are a few other games with this board in it.

#5336 4 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yep I noticed the caps as well and @Djshakes indicated that this is board is only used for that specific opto, it makes me wonder whether that board is the issue. Unfortunately not a common board although there are a few other games with this board in it.

It's funny, opto 36 is only controlled by that board under the playfield, the regular opto board has nothing to do with that switch. This odd board is used mainly in bsd during mist mode which has lots of issues. I think I will reflow but most likely will need to buy the new upgraded board. Sucks as it is $100 but upgraded and includes an led on board to tell you when optos are interrupted. Right now I'm focusing on a Congo that has factory wiring issues. The line worker must have been drunk or new.

#5337 4 months ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

This Shadow Cityscape decal run is wrapping up and I have a couple remaining. Please PM if interested:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/73433
[quoted image][quoted image]

Love mine! Looks terrific!!!

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#5338 4 months ago
Quoted from Scoot:

You could also run a light strip under the rear glass trim under the back box. It would not only light up the upper playfield but the whole back area. Comet makes 6v frosted ones that work great.

scoot Where did you get the brick background?

#5339 4 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

scoot Where did you get the brick background?

amazon.com link »

#5340 4 months ago

Was still dealing airballs off of right standup. Used one of my old plastics from the game. Ground down on a bench grinder and attached. Problem solved.

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#5341 4 months ago

Well it only took me 3 weeks but I finally installed the Cityscapes decal from jonesjb, thank you! I have to say that I really like the look plus the fit and finish were perfect, and even better, I didn't have to tear the pin apart to install the decal.

cityscape decal (resized).jpgcityscape decal 1 (resized).jpgcityscape decal 3 (resized).jpgcityscape decal 4 (resized).jpg
#5342 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Was still dealing airballs off of right standup. Used one of my old plastics from the game. Ground down on a bench grinder and attached. Problem solved.
[quoted image]

Looks like your switch bracket is bent. Those take a beating and get bent back causing balls to ramp off them. You can put more padding behind the switch or get the reinforced switches. I don't think that plastic is going to last long sticking out like that.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R

#5343 4 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Looks like your switch bracket is bent. Those take a beating and get bent back causing balls to ramp off them. You can put more padding behind the switch or get the reinforced switches. I don't think that plastic is going to last long sticking out like that.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R

Thanks, it'll last. I put flipper rubber in place of the foam. I always do that and it eliminates 90% of the airballs. The flippers are too strong for that close of a shot. That target takes a beating.

#5344 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Thanks, it'll last. I put flipper rubber in place of the foam. I always do that and it eliminates 90% of the airballs. The flippers are too strong for that close of a shot. That target takes a beating.

But it's not the foam area he's talking about. I had to put rubber between the actual hole in the playfield and the back of the switch bracket. That completely eliminated airballs and my flippers were very strong, freshly rebuilt.

#5345 4 months ago

I put some mirror blades on my shadow. I like them, but as you can see in the pic, I have a “warping problem”. While I can lift the playfield, I cannot do so without rubbing the mirrors, I bought the protectors from PL and they won’t even fit. Eventually, I think these scratch and look awful so I’m thinking about removing them for a future pin and replacing with some blade art. Do you guys have any favorite blade art for TS?

BDCDA88C-CDAA-4092-997A-BC4F6049E906 (resized).jpeg
#5347 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

I put some mirror blades on my shadow. I like them, but as you can see in the pic, I have a “warping problem”. While I can lift the playfield, I cannot do so without rubbing the mirrors, I bought the protectors from PL and they won’t even fit. Eventually, I think these scratch and look awful so I’m thinking about removing them for a future pin and replacing with some blade art. Do you guys have any favorite blade art for TS?
[quoted image]

How do the corners of your cabinet look? Splitting at all?

#5348 4 months ago

Wanted to make a keychain, this is what I ended up with

IMG_20190207_201415 (resized).jpg
#5349 4 months ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Love mine! Looks terrific!!![quoted image][quoted image]

Your pin looks great with the cityscape decal! Nice photos, and well done!

#5350 4 months ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

But it's not the foam area he's talking about. I had to put rubber between the actual hole in the playfield and the back of the switch bracket. That completely eliminated airballs and my flippers were very strong, freshly rebuilt.

Hey, good thought. I'm gonna try that.

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