(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by Sean_R
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#5251 4 months ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Welcome!
I have that Sanctum Wall decal too, just never installed it; if you ever have time and it's not too much trouble, would you mind taking a photo of it without the glass on?
Thanks!

Sure, will do! I actually bought jonesjb’s wall decal, before I even owned TS. (Did the same with Aurich’s translite package and the lighted hinge mod.) I do like the dragon one though. The inside walls of mine are pretty scraped up, so I’m going to buy blades of some sort. If I buy the CityScape blades, I’ll definitely install jonesjb’s wall overlay, but if I go with gold or black chrome mirror blades, maybe I’ll leave the dragon.

I wish I could see a side-by-side of each blade option. I’m not normally a fan of mirror blades, but can see how black chrome or gold would work on TS. I’m installing Pinstadium lights, which also might not go well with mirrored walls.

#5252 4 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

I bet a shiny new dime that chrome would look good but can't recall seeing one. Having things chromed ain't cheap..at least where I live

Here is mine with chrome and brass wireforms, I like it.

IMG_0760~photo (resized).JPGIMG_0792~photo (resized).JPGIMG_0796~photo (resized).JPG
#5253 4 months ago
Quoted from Demoman1:

Here is mine with chrome and brass wireforms, I like it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Love the brass!! Where’d you get that done? And how much?

#5254 4 months ago

http://www.pinballplating.com/available-parts
Talk to Chris Royalty, great guy
He has new plated parts and quick exchange parts, send your gun in and he ships one he has all ready plated. For powder coating, I use https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/powder-coating-services-offered Robert Stone, another good guy, does beautiful work also in a myriad of colors. Both men are very trust worthy. Good Luck......

#5255 4 months ago

Here are a few closeups

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#5256 4 months ago
Quoted from Demoman1:

Here are a few closeups
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Fantastic!

#5257 4 months ago

I have a few Shadow Cityscape decals remaining. Please PM if interested:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/73433

And thank you to everyone who already bought one for the overwhelming positive support!

D9F0F62C-216A-4E5F-9DF0-ACD95A67037C (resized).jpeg76122FDC-DD0F-4B41-BF18-5D8A5645640C (resized).jpeg
#5258 4 months ago

Hi Guys, new Shadow owner here. Love it as always! It needs some adjustments, the switch on the left ramp when it diverts the ball to the right, that little wire switch is an issue. If it's not out far enough, it doesn't register the ball going through. When I adjust it outward, it's prone to getting stuck. Would you recommend I try a different switch type (not of the wire variety)? Photo is attached.

Also, the individual I bought this from put some spotlights in the battlefield. Unfortunately the "lamp shades"get pushed down by the glass. The shades then stick down far enough into the battlefield that the ball hits is. Again, photo attached. I had to remove the shades, and am stuck with just plain old ugly LEDs. Are there lower profile spotlight shades out there?

Nothing is stopping gameplay, it's all good, just fine tuning and wondering if you had any ideas.

Thanks!

IMG_2111 (resized).JPGIMG_2109 (resized).PNGIMG_2110 (resized).JPG
#5259 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Are there lower profile spotlight shades out there?

Not that I know, why not trim 1/4 off the bottom for ball clearance.

#5260 4 months ago

I have the same switch issue on that left ramp shot. It either registers and the ball gets stuck on it or doesn’t register. Just have to keep adjusting to find a happy medium. I’d personally get rid of the spotlights on the upper Playfield

#5261 4 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Not that I know, why not trim 1/4 off the bottom for ball clearance.

That was the next option. I like the spotlights up there, personally. Amazing how dark it is when the lamps are taken out!

#5262 4 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I have the same switch issue on that left ramp shot. It either registers and the ball gets stuck on it or doesn’t register. Just have to keep adjusting to find a happy medium. I’d personally get rid of the spotlights on the upper Playfield

I was noticing in demoman1s photos that he has a different metal piece on his switch. It’s not the small wire, it’s the flat metal leaf type. I may try one of those....

#5263 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Hi Guys, new Shadow owner here. Love it as always! It needs some adjustments, the switch on the left ramp when it diverts the ball to the right, that little wire switch is an issue. If it's not out far enough, it doesn't register the ball going through. When I adjust it outward, it's prone to getting stuck. Would you recommend I try a different switch type (not of the wire variety)? Photo is attached.
Also, the individual I bought this from put some spotlights in the battlefield. Unfortunately the "lamp shades"get pushed down by the glass. The shades then stick down far enough into the battlefield that the ball hits is. Again, photo attached. I had to remove the shades, and am stuck with just plain old ugly LEDs. Are there lower profile spotlight shades out there?
Nothing is stopping gameplay, it's all good, just fine tuning and wondering if you had any ideas.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It's a problem common to all Shadows, although yours doesn't appear to be stock. You need this one with the 4" actuator from Pinballlife
https://www.pinballlife.com/sub-microswitch-with-4-straight-wire-actuator.html

#5264 4 months ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

It's a problem common to all Shadows, although yours doesn't appear to be stock. You need this one with the 4" actuator from Pinballlife
https://www.pinballlife.com/sub-microswitch-with-4-straight-wire-actuator.html

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

It's a problem common to all Shadows, although yours doesn't appear to be stock. You need this one with the 4" actuator from Pinballlife
https://www.pinballlife.com/sub-microswitch-with-4-straight-wire-actuator.html

Thanks, added it to my cart! I noticed Demoman1's setup is slightly different. Is the one you linked essentially the same with his own bend put into it? The 4" one your posted looks like it is essentially the same one I have just bent into the shape that is pictured. A 4 inched would need to be bent anyhow since one of the support brackets would get in the way otherwise.

Screen Shot 2019-01-27 at 9.40.27 PM (resized).png

#5265 4 months ago

There's lots of info somewhere in this thread. There might even be a separate thread about it. I did it to mine before I sold it. You put the 4" one in and do not bend the actuator. You only need to adjust the switch normally by loosening/tightening the screws. It makes the shot go from like 75% true to 100%.

#5266 4 months ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

There's lots of info somewhere in this thread. There might even be a separate thread about it. I did it to mine before I sold it. You put the 4" one in and do not bend the actuator. You only need to adjust the switch normally by loosening/tightening the screws. It makes the shot go from like 75% true to 100%.

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

There's lots of info somewhere in this thread. There might even be a separate thread about it. I did it to mine before I sold it. You put the 4" one in and do not bend the actuator. You only need to adjust the switch normally by loosening/tightening the screws. It makes the shot go from like 75% true to 100%.

Thanks for the info! I'll start scouring the boards for that!

#5267 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Are there lower profile spotlight shades out there

Check out the Led Flex bulbs from Comet.

It will allow you to bend and aim the light while still providing clearance for the pf glass without interfering with the ball on the battlefield.

#5268 4 months ago

You could also run a light strip under the rear glass trim under the back box. It would not only light up the upper playfield but the whole back area. Comet makes 6v frosted ones that work great.

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#5269 4 months ago
Quoted from RTS:

Check out the Led Flex bulbs from Comet.
It will allow you to bend and aim the light while still providing clearance for the pf glass without interfering with the ball on the battlefield.

I used a 2 headed smd flex bulb in a socket in the back right corner of the upper pf. I have one led aimed at the upper pf area and another down to the back of the pf. I wanted the socket out of view when playing them game. That's the nice thing about the flex leds - you can mount the socket any way that works best and aim the leds where they need to go. Comet also has the Matrix system which makes it super easy to add lighting. Everything uses connectors so no soldering.

#5270 4 months ago

I'm still happy with my solution to illuminating the battlefield. I drilled small holes though the paddle and mounted SMD bulbs behind it. I actually just disassembled a double flex bulb to get the SMDs I wanted. Works great and doesn't affect the functionality of the paddle in any way.

#5271 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Hi Guys, new Shadow owner here. Love it as always! It needs some adjustments, the switch on the left ramp when it diverts the ball to the right, that little wire switch is an issue. If it's not out far enough, it doesn't register the ball going through. When I adjust it outward, it's prone to getting stuck. Would you recommend I try a different switch type (not of the wire variety)? Photo is attached.
Also, the individual I bought this from put some spotlights in the battlefield. Unfortunately the "lamp shades"get pushed down by the glass. The shades then stick down far enough into the battlefield that the ball hits is. Again, photo attached. I had to remove the shades, and am stuck with just plain old ugly LEDs. Are there lower profile spotlight shades out there?
Nothing is stopping gameplay, it's all good, just fine tuning and wondering if you had any ideas.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Just get Pinstadium. Problem solved.

#5272 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Hi Guys, new Shadow owner here. Love it as always! It needs some adjustments, the switch on the left ramp when it diverts the ball to the right, that little wire switch is an issue. If it's not out far enough, it doesn't register the ball going through. When I adjust it outward, it's prone to getting stuck. Would you recommend I try a different switch type (not of the wire variety)? Photo is attached.
Also, the individual I bought this from put some spotlights in the battlefield. Unfortunately the "lamp shades"get pushed down by the glass. The shades then stick down far enough into the battlefield that the ball hits is. Again, photo attached. I had to remove the shades, and am stuck with just plain old ugly LEDs. Are there lower profile spotlight shades out there?
Nothing is stopping gameplay, it's all good, just fine tuning and wondering if you had any ideas.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Take a rasp and gri d off the bottom edge of the shround until it does not interfere.

#5273 4 months ago

Thanks for the ideas guys! I’m going to mull these over and do some experimenting.

#5274 4 months ago

Finally installed Aurich’s translight package. It is so beautiful.

3AE876E4-97A3-470D-9C22-2B5A4609B693 (resized).jpeg
#5275 4 months ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Finally installed Aurich’s translight package. It is so beautiful.
[quoted image]

Looks really good, funny, I have those 3 machines too

#5276 4 months ago

I have another common spot where the ball is getting stuck. When the ball drops from the battlefield onto the wire form below it, it seems to get stuck there pretty often. So, I can try to adjust the wire back, which I don’t know I have enough room to make it work. Or, I was wondering if there’s a larger plastic piece I could replace the existing one with to make sure it drops closer to the edge of the wire. Thoughts?

34070062-F438-4E25-A53B-7CCE8DE72DC1 (resized).jpegE00BA356-1756-431C-A441-46CAF6E02667 (resized).jpeg
#5277 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Hi Guys, new Shadow owner here. Love it as always! It needs some adjustments, the switch on the left ramp when it diverts the ball to the right, that little wire switch is an issue. If it's not out far enough, it doesn't register the ball going through. When I adjust it outward, it's prone to getting stuck. Would you recommend I try a different switch type (not of the wire variety)? Photo is attached.
Also, the individual I bought this from put some spotlights in the battlefield. Unfortunately the "lamp shades"get pushed down by the glass. The shades then stick down far enough into the battlefield that the ball hits is. Again, photo attached. I had to remove the shades, and am stuck with just plain old ugly LEDs. Are there lower profile spotlight shades out there?
Nothing is stopping gameplay, it's all good, just fine tuning and wondering if you had any ideas.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

In addition to the long switch what you want to do is cut a piece of clear lexan and use it as a switch extender. You basically build a new base. Drill two holes on each end, one for the switch and one for the base plate where the old switch goes. This extends the switch out further down the wire form and the ball won't get stuck as it will pick up momentum before it hits the switch and the switch will always register. I posted a picture in this thread a year or so ago. Also rip off the foam on the standup targets by the left ramp and super glue a piece of flipper rubber in their place. No more airballs.

#5278 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

I have another common spot where the ball is getting stuck. When the ball drops from the battlefield onto the wire form below it, it seems to get stuck there pretty often. So, I can try to adjust the wire back, which I don’t know I have enough room to make it work. Or, I was wondering if there’s a larger plastic piece I could replace the existing one with to make sure it drops closer to the edge of the wire. Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

This happens to me alot too. I tried shimming the wireform up at the mount with a few washers but it didn't really help.

#5279 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

I have another common spot where the ball is getting stuck. When the ball drops from the battlefield onto the wire form below it, it seems to get stuck there pretty often. So, I can try to adjust the wire back, which I don’t know I have enough room to make it work. Or, I was wondering if there’s a larger plastic piece I could replace the existing one with to make sure it drops closer to the edge of the wire. Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I think your plastic might be backwards, it should be closer to the wireform.

Here is a post that I started a while back and got some feedback from other users:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/66#post-3445187

I sent my parts in for plating and didn't get back all of the exact ones I sent in (some from other machines) and that wireform/habitrail I got back had a bit of a bend right where your ball is getting stuck. I was hesitant to bend it to much for fear of messing up the plating, but a gentle correction helped on my machine.

#5280 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

I have another common spot where the ball is getting stuck. When the ball drops from the battlefield onto the wire form below it, it seems to get stuck there pretty often. So, I can try to adjust the wire back, which I don’t know I have enough room to make it work. Or, I was wondering if there’s a larger plastic piece I could replace the existing one with to make sure it drops closer to the edge of the wire. Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Almost looks like the plastic has been modified shorter. The screws should not be that close to the edge.

#5281 4 months ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I think your plastic might be backwards, it should be closer to the wireform.
Here is a post that I started a while back and got some feedback from other users:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-shadow-club/page/66#post-3445187
I sent my parts in for plating and didn't get back all of the exact ones I sent in (some from other machines) and that wireform/habitrail I got back had a bit of a bend right where your ball is getting stuck. I was hesitant to bend it to much for fear of messing up the plating, but a gentle correction helped on my machine.

Excellent! Yes, compared to the picture you posted, mine definitely looks backwards. I'll swap that thing around and it makes sense that the stuck balls should stop.....Thank you!

#5282 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

In addition to the long switch what you want to do is cut a piece of clear lexan and use it as a switch extender. You basically build a new base. Drill two holes on each end, one for the switch and one for the base plate where the old switch goes. This extends the switch out further down the wire form and the ball won't get stuck as it will pick up momentum before it hits the switch and the switch will always register. I posted a picture in this thread a year or so ago. Also rip off the foam on the standup targets by the left ramp and super glue a piece of flipper rubber in their place. No more airballs.

I'm going to have to find that picture. Where do you buy your lexan from?

Thank you!

#5283 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Excellent! Yes, compared to the picture you posted, mine definitely looks backwards. I'll swap that thing around and it makes sense that the stuck balls should stop.....Thank you!

I don't think you can mount that plastic backwards. I thought mine was backwards since the ball occasionally gets stuck on top of it. I took things apart to play with it and found that it only mounts one way. My plastic had a curve to it. Not sure if it is supposed to be like that or it is warped.

#5284 4 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I don't think you can mount that plastic backwards. I thought mine was backwards since the ball occasionally gets stuck on top of it. I took things apart to play with it and found that it only mounts one way. My plastic had a curve to it. Not sure if it is supposed to be like that or it is warped.

Tough to say. I think from the picture posted by Lamprey, my plastic piece looks the same has his. The widths for the screw holes are the same so I should, in theory, be able to rotate it around. What I'm learning is that getting to the nuts under the plastic is going to requite removal of the left ramp and diverter since I'm afraid that the plastic will snap just at the point where I can get access if I bend it up slightly. I'm also noticing this Shadow has a lot more broken plastic than I had noticed when I picked it up, which bugs me.

IMG_2177 (resized).JPG
#5285 4 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I don't think you can mount that plastic backwards. I thought mine was backwards since the ball occasionally gets stuck on top of it. I took things apart to play with it and found that it only mounts one way. My plastic had a curve to it. Not sure if it is supposed to be like that or it is warped.

I do believe this is a "home grown" mod......See pictures. Unforuntately, it's not as easy as flipping it around, the distance between the wire form and the plastic piece are essentially the same. I guess all I can do is get some Lexan, a marker and my dremel and cut out a new one.....Unless someone has that piece laying around they'd like to sell me I'm going to start by drilling a couple new holes to see how that does.....

IMG_2180 (resized).jpgIMG_2181 (resized).jpgIMG_2182 (resized).jpgIMG_2183 (resized).jpg

#5286 4 months ago

To close this topic, this ended up being my temporary permanent fix....

11AC7A15-2614-4E78-92F0-50C992DFD785 (resized).jpeg
#5287 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

I'm going to have to find that picture. Where do you buy your lexan from?
Thank you!

Here, I made one tonight.

Home depot has the stuff in big sheets. You only need a small amount. Maybe ebay for smaller quantities?

20190131_215109 (resized).jpg20190131_215115 (resized).jpg
#5288 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Here, I made one tonight.
Home depot has the stuff in big sheets. You only need a small amount. Maybe ebay for smaller quantities?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for the pic. The switch you used doesn’t look like the 4” straight wire actuator recommended above. If I get that 4” one should I still mount it like this?

#5289 4 months ago

Does anybody have any photos of the underside of the Battlefield? Mine has been breaking the wire off the lug on the paddle solenoid pretty consistently. It looks to me like someone has taken the whole thing apart at some point in the past and put it back together a little off. I'm trying to get an idea about what the underside of the mini-playfield is supposed to look like. Thanks a bunch.

#5290 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

Thanks for the pic. The switch you used doesn’t look like the 4” straight wire actuator recommended above. If I get that 4” one should I still mount it like this?

I have one on order. Works even better with same setup. I'll be installing soon.

#5291 4 months ago
Quoted from Natetheviking:

Does anybody have any photos of the underside of the Battlefield? Mine has been breaking the wire off the lug on the paddle solenoid pretty consistently. It looks to me like someone has taken the whole thing apart at some point in the past and put it back together a little off. I'm trying to get an idea about what the underside of the mini-playfield is supposed to look like. Thanks a bunch.

if no one has posted a pic, when I get home I will take some for you.

Scoot.

#5292 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I have one on order. Works even better with same setup. I'll be installing soon.

My 4 inch switch should be arriving today. So I could cut a longer mount to put the switch on, like you did. And then put the 4 inch wire switch on that? seems like the wire will need some bending, but I can see how it would work well!

#5293 4 months ago
Quoted from Natetheviking:

Does anybody have any photos of the underside of the Battlefield? Mine has been breaking the wire off the lug on the paddle solenoid pretty consistently. It looks to me like someone has taken the whole thing apart at some point in the past and put it back together a little off. I'm trying to get an idea about what the underside of the mini-playfield is supposed to look like. Thanks a bunch.

Here are a few pics I just took. Let me know if this is ok.

20190201_143253 (resized).jpg20190201_143231 (resized).jpg20190201_143233 (resized).jpg
#5294 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

My 4 inch switch should be arriving today. So I could cut a longer mount to put the switch on, like you did. And then put the 4 inch wire switch on that? seems like the wire will need some bending, but I can see how it would work well!

Yes, use the 4 inch. I did this on my last shadow and it worked great. I plan on doing it on this one. Keep in mind, the switch mounting holes on the ramp are oval so it allows you to tweak and position the switch and lexan plate to your liking. Just put the game in switch test and make your adjustments accordingly.

I'm still having airball issues off of my right mongol target at left ramp entrance. I may...just may think of a design to eliminate airballs like I did for indiana jones and tales from the crypt. In the past the flipper rubber did the trick. I'm going to tweak mine more but may be developing something. The issues is the plastic shield will need to be curved as the ramp is so steep.

#5295 4 months ago

I have access to a laser cutter and they have acrylic available to cut. I’m thinking about using the laser cutter for both the 4” switch mount and the stuck ball piece under the battle field.

I don’t know much about plastics and how brittle the different types are. Is acrylic hard enough and not brittle to where it would chip and crack and make it useless?

#5296 4 months ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Here are a few pics I just took. Let me know if this is ok.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks that answers a few questions, I think. Thanks for posting them.

#5297 4 months ago
Quoted from RockBass14:

I have access to a laser cutter and they have acrylic available to cut. I’m thinking about using the laser cutter for both the 4” switch mount and the stuck ball piece under the battle field.
I don’t know much about plastics and how brittle the different types are. Is acrylic hard enough and not brittle to where it would chip and crack and make it useless?

Lexan is the strongest from my understanding.

#5298 4 months ago

I made a separate post but no action, hoping to get answers here.

I got a new shadow. It's been a couple years since I owned on. I notice when I get the ball up on the battlefield the plunger fires when I hit the flipper buttons as well as move the plunger side to side. I thought it was only suppose to fire when the opto is interrupted and the flipper buttons only move the plunger side to side not fire the plunger coil?

What would cause this or is it not an issue?

Put in switch test mode, no odd switch triggering from taping on playfield or triggering other switches.

During play it doesn't happen every time you hit the flipper button. Just randomly when hitting flipper buttons. Enough to be annoying.

#5299 4 months ago

Heavywoods 50 Wyckoff Ave Brooklyn

IMG_20190118_122035648 (resized).jpg
#5300 4 months ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I made a separate post but no action, hoping to get answers here.
I got a new shadow. It's been a couple years since I owned on. I notice when I get the ball up on the battlefield the plunger fires when I hit the flipper buttons as well as move the plunger side to side. I thought it was only suppose to fire when the opto is interrupted and the flipper buttons only move the plunger side to side not fire the plunger coil?
What would cause this or is it not an issue?
Put in switch test mode, no odd switch triggering from taping on playfield or triggering other switches.
During play it doesn't happen every time you hit the flipper button. Just randomly when hitting flipper buttons. Enough to be annoying.

It is not supposed to fire while moving unless triggered by the opto. In test mode everything checks out?

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