Shadow, The
Bally, 1994Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:looks like you'll have to take that off and pull out bolt from other side or drill it out, replace new bolt, good to go.
Yeah that's a good idea honestly.
If anyone ever has a kicker issue, make sure to check this point of failure in addition to the spring/optos/coil, it just might be why your sleeve is affecting the travel.
Thanks for the tips and suggestions, my girlfriend and i were able to unscrew the posts from the board and then put one in put the band around and stretched it and got the other post screwed back in without taking anything else off the playfield. Pain.
I am in need of someone who knows how to fix the driver board. I have the dreaded reset problem(most of the time when someone double flips at same time, but I have also seen the machine on occasion just reset though rare). Can anyone recommend someone I can pay to fix? I would have to ship my board obviously. I do have experience soldering switches etc, but the video's I watched entail more than I would feel comfortable doing at this time.
Thanks as always
Quoted from InfamousDolphin:I have the dreaded reset problem
First, try reseating all ribbon cables. You don't have to pull them all the way off, just wiggle them loose and the push back on.
I was able to fix this issue on mine by replacing the Caps and BRs but it's not always that simple or recommended.
If you still want to play in the meantime, these are nice to have on hand and will keep things working.
http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html
You're going to get people in two camps on the solution - those that say they shouldn't be used as a permanent fix, and those that say it's ok as it relieves strain. In my experience the product works great and I was able to keep my game running until I had time to fix.
Quoted from InfamousDolphin:yellowghost tiesmasc manny65
Thanks for the tips and suggestions, my girlfriend and i were able to unscrew the posts from the board and then put one in put the band around and stretched it and got the other post screwed back in without taking anything else off the playfield. Pain.
I am in need of someone who knows how to fix the driver board. I have the dreaded reset problem(most of the time when someone double flips at same time, but I have also seen the machine on occasion just reset though rare). Can anyone recommend someone I can pay to fix? I would have to ship my board obviously. I do have experience soldering switches etc, but the video's I watched entail more than I would feel comfortable doing at this time.
Thanks as always
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:looks like you'll have to take that off and pull out bolt from other side or drill it out, replace new bolt, good to go.
I agree. Grind off the stud, drill a hole and install a screw and lock-nut. Doubt that your're going to find one of those. Put a classified ad out. You might get lucky though
Hey guys, after receiving a number of questions about my Shadow, I had my custom back board artwork professionally printed to a decal.
If anyone is interested, I made a few extras available on a first come first served basis. You can find the decal here: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/73433
IMG_9961 (resized).jpgIMG_9968 (resized).jpgIMG_9965 (resized).jpgIMG_9980 (resized).jpg
Quoted from jonesjb:Hey guys, after receiving a number of questions about my Shadow, I had my custom back board artwork professionally printed to a decal.
If anyone is interested, I made a few extras available on a first come first served basis. You can find the decal here: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/73433
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I bought one if these from ebay a little while back. It started to bubble a few weeks later. How is yours holding on?
Quoted from yellowghost:I bought one if these from ebay a little while back. It started to bubble a few weeks later. How is yours holding on?
I haven't had any issues. I had these printed direct (not from eBay).
My ramp plastics were yellowed and tired, laser cut some in UV blue.
It's obvious with the lights on, but I play in the dark. The effect is there, but much more subtle. Flows well with the blues/purples on the playfield, ever so slight glow from the edge.
Thoughts?
IMG_20190108_223033 (resized).jpgIMG_20190108_223047 (resized).jpgQuoted from pacman11:I think my ring lights are out, does someone sell those little lights anywhere?
I think this is it:
https://www.pinballlife.com/7268-bulbs-sold-individually.html
Quoted from pacman11:I think my ring lights are out, does someone sell those little lights anywhere?
I had a picture in here somewhere.. not sure where it is. But I cut open regular ol LED bulb and took the filament out and stuck it in the socket. Works great. Will find a picture
Quoted from dudah:My ramp plastics were yellowed and tired, laser cut some in UV blue.
It's obvious with the lights on, but I play in the dark. The effect is there, but much more subtle. Flows well with the blues/purples on the playfield, ever so slight glow from the edge.
Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks good. Wish I hadn’t just put new clears on my game, lol.
Quoted from yellowghost:Put a LED inside.[quoted image]
That's more or less what I did. To help diffuse the light a bit, I put a couple of layers of wax paper in there, YMMV.
I never liked the plastics on the ramps so I took them off when I took ownership of the game. It's never been a problem yet but I suppose they are there for a reason.
Quoted from dudah:My ramp plastics were yellowed and tired, laser cut some in UV blue.
It's obvious with the lights on, but I play in the dark. The effect is there, but much more subtle. Flows well with the blues/purples on the playfield, ever so slight glow from the edge.
Thoughts?
Quoted from Lamprey:That's more or less what I did. To help diffuse the light a bit, I put a couple of layers of wax paper in there, YMMV.
Good idea
Quoted from yellowghost:Put a LED inside.[quoted image]
Wow, great idea.. Someone said pinball resource had them too.
Quoted from RCA1:I think this is it:
https://www.pinballlife.com/7268-bulbs-sold-individually.html
Are those led?
Quoted from pacman11:Are those led?
No, those are the same as OEM.
Quoted from yellowghost:My ramps were tarnished. Powdered coated in "prismatic transparent gold" hope they look good in the flesh[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Out of curiosity, why did you go powder coat instead of brass plating?
Please post pics of the ramps when they are done. Would like to see how they look!
Quoted from Lamprey:Out of curiosity, why did you go powder coat instead of brass plating?
Please post pics of the ramps when they are done. Would like to see how they look!
Eh? Did not know where I could that done local and I reckon the cost would have been astro-nomical. Get them back tommrow
Quoted from yellowghost:Eh? Did not know where I could that done local and I reckon the cost would have been astro-nomical. Get them back tommrow
I hope that they still fit and the powder coat doesn’t add any thickness to the wire forms when they go into the ramp holes. Has anyone else gotten them powder coated.
Lots of poeple have powder coated wire forms, I’m sure he won’t have any issues. Worst case he might need to widen the hole a smidge.
Quoted from gunstarhero:Lots of poeple have powder coated wire forms, I’m sure he won’t have any issues. Worst case he might need to widen the hole a smidge.
They fit afterall except for one hole. One thing to learn from my mistake however to make sure you put a screw into any threaded holes. One of the microswitches is threaded into the ramp itself. Cant screw it in now.
One more thing...after the swap,my right diverter binds when I install it on the previous position. If I line up the ball marks on the ramp and diverter, the set screws are digging in very close to the end of the shaft and that e-clip is not touching anything. Anybody else need to set it up this way?
Quoted from bballfan:Has anyone swapped in a CPR playfield for Shadow?
How is it holding up at the Sanctum area?
I will let you know in a few years.
Help needed.
I forgot that each set of rings has one three pin connector and one two pin connector. I put both two pin connectors on the left and both three pin connectors on the right. Anybody reckon which rings on either side get the three hole connectors?
Quoted from yellowghost:Help needed.
I forgot that each set of rings has one three pin connector and one two pin connector. I put both two pin connectors on the left and both three pin connectors on the right. Anybody reckon which rings on either side get the three hole connectors?
The easiest way is to just go into the settings and turn on each light, then you'll know.
Quoted from jonesjb:I hope that they still fit and the powder coat doesn’t add any thickness to the wire forms when they go into the ramp holes. Has anyone else gotten them powder coated.
it does, just had a tftc ramp powdercoated, had to peel off powdercoat where it fits into another ramp, just about 1/4" i'll just touch it up with black paint.
Quoted from Lamprey:Out of curiosity, why did you go powder coat instead of brass plating?
Please post pics of the ramps when they are done. Would like to see how they look!
I am happy with them
20190113_141725 (resized).jpg20190113_141752 (resized).jpgI’m getting my Shadow refurbished. Any suggestions on trim color. Im thinking either black nickel or chrome? I would also do the wireforms etc. all the same.
Has anyone ever done or know of an alternate cabinet decal?
Thanks, Brett
Quoted from brett:I’m getting my Shadow refurbished. Any suggestions on trim color. Im thinking either black nickel or chrome? I would also do the wireforms etc. all the same.
I am still very interested in seeing someones game that chromed the wireforms. I am not a fan of brass and know it does look good with the color scheme of the game.
Quoted from Squeakman:I am still very interested in seeing someones game that chromed the wireforms. I am not a fan of brass and know it does look good with the color scheme of the game.
I bet a shiny new dime that chrome would look good but can't recall seeing one. Having things chromed ain't cheap..at least where I live
Quoted from brett:I’m getting my Shadow refurbished. Any suggestions on trim color. Im thinking either black nickel or chrome? I would also do the wireforms etc. all the same.
Has anyone ever done or know of an alternate cabinet decal?
Thanks, Brett
Are you referring to the lockdown bar, legs, and siderails?
Quoted from jonesjb:Are you referring to the lockdown bar, legs, and siderails?
Yes, along with the wireforms.
Quoted from Squeakman:I am still very interested in seeing someones game that chromed the wireforms. I am not a fan of brass and know it does look good with the color scheme of the game.
I have chrome in four other pins. It looks great.
I thought the Shadow might look great in either chrome or black nickel. Black nickel could looks really good with this theme, along with being totally different.
Quoted from Djshakes:I remember all the tricks to fix the design flaws. Look forward to getting it running perfect.
Which tricks and design flaws are you referring to?
Quoted from brett:I didn’t know if black nickel would would good everywhere, including the gun.
I think black nickel would indeed look good on the cabinet components (and maybe some internal black side mirrors from Pinball Decals). This would create nice unity.
Just my opinion, but the pin benefits from the gold/brass look of the wireforms. I definitely wouldn't blacken them, it may change the look from a vintage art deco to a more modern 80s comic book look... Just personal preference though.
Quoted from jonesjb:Which tricks and design flaws are you referring to?
I believe I posted in this thread way back. Good luck finding it.
1. Standup mongel targets are known for airballs. Rip off the foam target backing and replace with a piece of flipper rubber. Super glue it on in place of foam. Air balls gone.
2. A weak shot to left ramp diverted right can result in ball getting stuck between wire form and ramp. A strong shot can cause ball to jump over thecswitch and it won't register the shot. Someone created a longer switch blade so the shot registers everytime. However, this doesn't remedy stuck ball. You need to get the switch further down the wire form on the downward sloping side. I cut a small piece of lexan and place it where the switch goes. I then place the switch on the end of the lexan strip further down the wire form. This remedies both problems.
Quoted from jonesjb:I think black nickel would indeed look good on the cabinet components (and maybe some internal black side mirrors from Pinball Decals). This would create nice unity.
Just my opinion, but the pin benefits from the gold/brass look of the wireforms. I definitely wouldn't blacken them, it may change the look from a vintage art deco to a more modern 80s comic book look... Just personal preference though.
Really good point. Thank you for your input.
Quoted from SeaLawyer:Finally in the club!!
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Welcome!
I have that Sanctum Wall decal too, just never installed it; if you ever have time and it's not too much trouble, would you mind taking a photo of it without the glass on?
Thanks!
Quoted from SeaLawyer:Topper is temporary. Remarkably clean Sanctum... [quoted image]
Looks good
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