(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

5 years ago



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  • 5,097 posts
  • 481 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Lamprey
  • Topic is favorited by 163 Pinsiders

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There are 5097 posts in this topic. You are on page 102 of 102.
#5051 15 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

there is no guarantee that placing the wires and diode in the same spot will be correct?

Follow this pic and you will always be correct.pasted_image (resized).png

#5052 15 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Follow this pic and you will always be correct.[quoted image]

Thank you so much for this. I will check the switch first thing in the morning.

#5053 14 days ago

I installed a ColorDMD and some Pinstadium lights in my Shadow this weekend. Such a wonderful upgrade to a beautiful pin.

Photos were all taken in a completely dark environment. There is such a difference to the battlefield visibility too!
F9BE8AA0-0233-4661-9E47-47B2C23E4505 (resized).jpegCBCBF672-FB06-4BC7-90F8-82BD9D07D70A (resized).jpeg32B245A6-962E-4ADC-92BF-22B8A0122C15 (resized).jpeg1C839CFE-E33A-4ACE-A667-FF7CD2136C38 (resized).jpeg

Before (for reference):

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#5054 14 days ago

I checked the switch and everything appears to be right. I included a pic to make sure. The game plays great and then suddenly thinks the ball drained. The even more weird thing is the flippers still keep on working and the next ball doesn’t load. I played 5 games and it did it twice in one game. The first ball drained with the ball saver still on and it spit out two balls at the same time. Other games were flawless. The ball trough optos have been worked on in the past, looks like two of the transmitters were replaced at some point. I checked them with my cell phone and in switch mode and everything seems fine. I will hit them with the soldering iron just to make sure. I am about to do a playfield swap on this and would like to sort it out before I do so.

*Edit* I just pulled the trough optos and this is what I found.

997BD58E-750F-44A4-ABA1-7914648FEA30 (resized).jpeg204C1BC4-71A3-4BC3-A2F0-8FB29BDC063B (resized).jpeg
#5055 14 days ago

Just picked up A Shadow that was damaged in Hurricane Irma. Going to restore this one. Could use a DMD and Speaker mounting panel, as well as the back box Light panel if anyone has an extra. Thanks for your help

#5056 14 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I checked the switch and everything appears to be right. I included a pic to make sure. The game plays great and then suddenly thinks the ball drained. The even more weird thing is the flippers still keep on working and the next ball doesn’t load. I played 5 games and it did it twice in one game. The first ball drained with the ball saver still on and it spit out two balls at the same time. Other games were flawless. The ball trough optos have been worked on in the past, looks like two of the transmitters were replaced at some point. I checked them with my cell phone and in switch mode and everything seems fine. I will hit them with the soldering iron just to make sure. I am about to do a playfield swap on this and would like to sort it out before I do so.
*Edit* I just pulled the trough optos and this is what I found.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I would bet a shiny new dime that the opto boards are the problem. Start checking the traces with a multi-meter.

#5057 14 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

I would bet a shiny new dime that the opto boards are the problem. Start checking the traces with a multi-meter.

I tried to clean up the mess on the opto boards and now it is messing up every game. You sir, have a shiny new dime!

#5058 14 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I tried to clean up the mess on the opto boards and now it is messing up every game. You sir, have a shiny new dime!

Here's what you need...

https://www.pinballlife.com/trough-opto-transmitter-receiver-board-set-6-ball-for-williamsbally-pinball-machines.html

#5059 14 days ago

Anyone know where I can buy the little tiny set screw that goes in the base of the diverter shaft? Finally got the stripped screw out, but it’s ruined. This was designed to have the 2 screws hold the shaft in place-do you think one would be enough? If anyone has a link on a replacement, that’d be awesome

#5060 14 days ago
Quoted from Coz:

Anyone know where I can buy the little tiny set screw that goes in the base of the diverter shaft? Finally got the stripped screw out, but it’s ruined. This was designed to have the 2 screws hold the shaft in place-do you think one would be enough? If anyone has a link on a replacement, that’d be awesome

Hardware store. Common thing.

#5061 13 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Hardware store. Common thing.

Ok. Just wanted to make sure I got the correct one. I didn’t know if it was some crazy unique size. Thanks

#5062 13 days ago
Quoted from Coz:

Ok. Just wanted to make sure I got the correct one. I didn’t know if it was some crazy unique size. Thanks

It's very important that you buy the ones with a cup point style, not flat, cone or etc.

Cup Point (resized).jpg
#5063 11 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

were replaced at some point. I checked them with my cell phone and in switch mode and everything seems fine. I will hit them with the soldering iron just to make sure. I am about to do a playfield swap on this and would like to sort it out before I do so.

Most of my microswitches seem to be wired on the non-banded side of the diode. May want to take a look at this.

#5064 10 days ago

Working on a Shadow. Can anyone look at this picture and tell me where these wires go??? They are green/orange and white/yellow playfield switch wires. BUT those wires are already going to J207 and J209. So...are they broken off from the connectors? If so, I'll install new connectors and trifurcon pins. Just want to make sure before I do so...don't want to blow the switch line. Anyone that can snap a picture of their shadow and post, I'd much appreciate it.

20181129_180736 (resized).jpg

#5065 10 days ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Working on a Shadow. Can anyone look at this picture and tell me where these wires go??? They are green/orange and white/yellow playfield switch wires. BUT those wires are already going to J207 and J209. So...are they broken off from the connectors? If so, I'll install new connectors and trifurcon pins. Just want to make sure before I do so...don't want to blow the switch line. Anyone that can snap a picture of their shadow and post, I'd much appreciate it.
[quoted image]

Believe they go to j206 and j208.

20181129_203757 (resized).jpg
#5066 9 days ago

Thanks so much. I seen those connectors in the head of the game, but the manual shows that J206 and J208 are not used. So the manual is wrong. Thanks again. Really appreciate the help.

#5067 9 days ago

So every Opto is acting goofy. When I go to switch edge test, the game just goes through all the Opto switches. I pulled the Opto board from the bottom of the game and re flowed the header pins. Didn't change anything. Looking at the test report, it shows magnet Opto faulted. Would one Opto cause all of them to act up? The only one that shows in test report is the magnet one. I guess I'll start there. Is there diodes on these optos? If so, then maybe the one on the magnet Opto is bad...and sending power back through the rest of them? Sorry Just thinking out loud here, but if my theory seems correct, can anyone confirm?

#5068 9 days ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

So every Opto is acting goofy. When I go to switch edge test, the game just goes through all the Opto switches. I pulled the Opto board from the bottom of the game and re flowed the header pins. Didn't change anything. Looking at the test report, it shows magnet Opto faulted. Would one Opto cause all of them to act up? The only one that shows in test report is the magnet one. I guess I'll start there. Is there diodes on these optos? If so, then maybe the one on the magnet Opto is bad...and sending power back through the rest of them? Sorry Just thinking out loud here, but if my theory seems correct, can anyone confirm?

There should be a opto board under the playfield. All the diodes for the optos would be on that board.

#5069 9 days ago

Thanks. I'll pull the board again and check the diodes.

#5070 8 days ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Thanks. I'll pull the board again and check the diodes.

Replace the capacitor while you're at it. This was causing switch issues on mine.

#5071 8 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

Replace the capacitor while you're at it. This was causing switch issues on mine.

I'll look at that too. Thank you

#5072 8 days ago

Can anyone please photograph under the righ hand diverter? Mine has this nub on the end of the shaft and I cannot pull it through the Playfield
Is this factory? Advice for getting the diverter out?

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#5073 8 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Can anyone please photograph under the righ hand diverter? Mine has this nub on the end of the shaft and I cannot pull it through the Playfield
Is this factory? Advice for getting the diverter out?
[quoted image]

Ughhh, just got through replacing all the plastics on my game and had to remove both diverters. I had a screw strip out on the diverter shaft that was pain to remove. Once the set screws are out, it should pull straight up through the shaft in the playfield.

Here is a video made a few years ago showing the removal

#5074 8 days ago

The problem is that picture was taken with the screws out. Here is a picture of the screws

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#5075 8 days ago

That looks modified to me. I no longer own Shadow, but I recall those being small set screws. Maybe someone modified the shaft to work with those larger type screws?

#5076 8 days ago

Also, does anyone have the black plastic that surrounds the Battlefield? Mine is snapped in half

#5077 8 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Also, does anyone have the black plastic that surrounds the Battlefield? Mine is snapped in half

Those set screws are not correct but if they work, why not. That nub is the same thickness of the shaft. It should come out.

#5078 7 days ago

Trying to help a friend troubleshoot his Shadow before I head up there. As I understand it, The Battlefield left/right motor works fine in the T16 Mini Battlefield test, but the flippers switches do not actuate the motor left or right in game play. Both opto boards were swapped out with no change (not surprising to me as this should have caused it to malfunction in test as well).

I'm stumped. Unless the setting 31 is set to disabled (which shouldn't allow the ball to get up there to begin with), I'm trying to think of a scenario in which the CPU control of the left/right movement of the kicker would work, but neither flipper button would work in game play.

Any ideas?

#5079 7 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Also, does anyone have the black plastic that surrounds the Battlefield? Mine is snapped in half

I looked for over a year, finally got one off ebay. had to pay like $250 for it, but I jumped on it. nobody makes them, almost impossible to find. prob a 3d printer is your only option.

#5080 7 days ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

Trying to help a friend troubleshoot his Shadow before I head up there. As I understand it, The Battlefield left/right motor works fine in the T16 Mini Battlefield test, but the flippers switches do not actuate the motor left or right in game play. Both opto boards were swapped out with no change (not surprising to me as this should have caused it to malfunction in test as well).
I'm stumped. Unless the setting 31 is set to disabled (which shouldn't allow the ball to get up there to begin with), I'm trying to think of a scenario in which the CPU control of the left/right movement of the kicker would work, but neither flipper button would work in game play.
Any ideas?

If there is a problem up there, I believe the game automatically disables it. And if there is a problem with the yellow target, balls will still be kicked up there from the scoop.

#5081 7 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Also, does anyone have the black plastic that surrounds the Battlefield? Mine is snapped in half

Have you tried reinforcing it from the back and glueing it?

#5082 7 days ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

I looked for over a year, finally got one off ebay. had to pay like $250 for it, but I jumped on it. nobody makes them, almost impossible to find. prob a 3d printer is your only option.

Perhaps vacuum forming would be viable? Paging freeplay40 ...

#5083 6 days ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Have you tried reinforcing it from the back and glueing it?

It’s really bad as the break spot looks like someone tried soldering it back together
After hearing about a year search I’m concerned. I’ve just bought all new parts to restore this machine and have this steaming pile of poo around the battlefield lol
I’m happy to look at any option right now

#5084 6 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Also, does anyone have the black plastic that surrounds the Battlefield? Mine is snapped in half

I will make a drawing of a new version. I will make it from aluminium or stainless steel. Maybe black chrome or gold plated. Also a modified design with integrated illumination for the battlefield.
I think maybe in late january i have the first prototype.

#5085 6 days ago
Quoted from Twister:

I will make a drawing of a new version. I will make it from aluminium or stainless steel. Maybe black chrome or gold plated. Also a modified design with integrated illumination for the battlefield.
I think maybe in late january i have the first prototype.

I love every word you just wrote! Haha
Count me in!

On another note when I pulled the upper Playfield out there was a ball of tape kinda “holding up” the Playfield. Can anyone photograph what it is supposed to look like under there?

#5086 6 days ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

Trying to help a friend troubleshoot his Shadow before I head up there. As I understand it, The Battlefield left/right motor works fine in the T16 Mini Battlefield test, but the flippers switches do not actuate the motor left or right in game play. Both opto boards were swapped out with no change (not surprising to me as this should have caused it to malfunction in test as well).
I'm stumped. Unless the setting 31 is set to disabled (which shouldn't allow the ball to get up there to begin with), I'm trying to think of a scenario in which the CPU control of the left/right movement of the kicker would work, but neither flipper button would work in game play.
Any ideas?

I just tested on my Shadow. With the Battlefield off (setting 31). the flippers do not move the battlefield paddle. The battlefield drop target still gets knocked down by the ball and then will pop back up. So it is possible for a ball to sneak past the drop target before it resets and the ball gets ejected to the battlefield.

See if the game properly resets the drop target when powering on and if the target remains up. If the battlefield is not disabled, then it could be the drop target not working and allowing the ball to reach the battlefield when the battlefield is not lit.

#5087 6 days ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I just tested on my Shadow. With the Battlefield off (setting 31). the flippers do not move the battlefield paddle. The battlefield drop target still gets knocked down by the ball and then will pop back up. So it is possible for a ball to sneak past the drop target before it resets and the ball gets ejected to the battlefield.
See if the game properly resets the drop target when powering on and if the target remains up. If the battlefield is not disabled, then it could be the drop target not working and allowing the ball to reach the battlefield when the battlefield is not lit.

Also motel mode disables the upper playfield..if a ball squeeked in there, it will pop up and drain. Might fool somebody into thinking its broken.

#5088 4 days ago
Quoted from Twister:

I will make a drawing of a new version. I will make it from aluminium or stainless steel. Maybe black chrome or gold plated. Also a modified design with integrated illumination for the battlefield.
I think maybe in late january i have the first prototype.

I need one as well. so count me in. black chrome would look great.

#5089 4 days ago

I'm sure someone here has custom plated their shooter gun. Can you post Pics?
I'm getting a plated one and I am debating between black nickel and chrome at the moment. I like the look of both, does one offer an advantage?

#5090 4 days ago

Black chrome all the way. And bright chrome for the trigger.
blackchrome_shadow_gun (resized).jpg

#5091 4 days ago

When taking off the gun grips is it just a matter of undoing the bolts? I've done that and the grips are still holding on

#5092 3 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

When taking off the gun grips is it just a matter of undoing the bolts? I've done that and the grips are still holding on

Just the bolts holding them on. Years of crud is what keeps them in place. Just stick a screwdriver in the hole and push through the other side. They will pop off.

#5093 3 days ago
Quoted from hawk370:

I'm sure someone here has custom plated their shooter gun. Can you post Pics?
I'm getting a plated one and I am debating between black nickel and chrome at the moment. I like the look of both, does one offer an advantage?

I think they both look good. But, I wanted to keep the chrome look as well as what I think the gun used in the movies was like, so kept it chrome.

7 cab_front_right_gun (resized).jpg

#5094 3 days ago

where are you guys sending the guns for plating? I just installed the wood handles and now the gun needs updating!

#5095 3 days ago
Quoted from msj2222:

where are you guys sending the guns for plating? I just installed the wood handles and now the gun needs updating!

I wonder how a brass replanting would look.

#5096 3 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I think they both look good. But, I wanted to keep the chrome look as well as what I think the gun used in the movies was like, so kept it chrome.
[quoted image]

Is that a custom pearl handle? Looks fantastic!

#5097 3 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Is that a custom pearl handle? Looks fantastic!

Thanks! Yes it is.

Here is more info if you like:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-refresh#post-3809177

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