(Topic ID: 46571)

The Shadow Club


By marsgnu

6 years ago



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  • 6,670 posts
  • 558 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by ccbiggsoo7
  • Topic is favorited by 193 Pinsiders

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There are 6670 posts in this topic. You are on page 101 of 134.
#5001 1 year ago

Has anyone put pinstadium lights in their Shadow. What do you think?

#5002 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Has anyone put pinstadium lights in their Shadow. What do you think?

Yes. It looks awesome.

#5003 1 year ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Tried purple and blue. Still deciding which to use or go back to white or black.[quoted image]

i'm typically a big translucent fan but Shadow is one of a very few games where I prefer black.

#5004 1 year ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

I haven’t been keeping up enough on this thread — is the black battlefield apron still unobtanium? Curious what one goes for if you can find it?

i found one on ebay, payed about $250 i think

#5005 1 year ago
Quoted from sebo:

I built my own plastic protectors for the big plastics on the left and right in yellow, looks amazing!!![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

where did ya get the plastic and how did you cut them?

#5006 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Has anyone put pinstadium lights in their Shadow. What do you think?

huge upgrade

#5007 1 year ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

where did ya get the plastic and how did you cut them?

Hi,

I used 3mm fluorescent acrylic you can find it online, then I traced the plastics and have it laser cut.

#5008 1 year ago

So I’m taking the advice of fellow Shadow owners and am buying some Pin Stadium lights. What flasher option do you recommend (if at all). The site recommends U/V, but that seems a bit much? I also don’t think I’ll be needing the GI module. Any advice?

#5009 1 year ago

I have always purchased the UV Glow for my machines and have been very happy with it. Scott will tell you it is the most popular and I would recommend it. You need the GI module. Though they say the Invisible-Shield is recommended, it is really a preference. I don't have it on my Shadow because they were not available when I bought the lights, but I bought them for my Iron Maiden. You should check out some videos to see the difference.

-1
#5010 1 year ago

Pinstadium is vastly overpriced, offers no real options other than bling, bling and more bling. I asked in his forum why he didn't offer something without all the bells and whistles and he wouldn't even answer and I asked more than once. The only conclusion I can come up with is this guy is a giant money grab. I'd love to see an option to just light the game up better that just turns on and off with the game. At $300+ a pop most can't even afford it.

#5011 1 year ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

Pinstadium is vastly overpriced, offers no real options other than bling, bling and more bling. I asked in his forum why he didn't offer something without all the bells and whistles and he wouldn't even answer and I asked more than once. The only conclusion I can come up with is this guy is a giant money grab. I'd love to see an option to just light the game up better that just turns on and off with the game. At $300+ a pop most can't even afford it.

He sure is making bank tho

-1
#5012 1 year ago
Quoted from lordloss:

He sure is making bank tho

Truth!

#5013 1 year ago
Quoted from Burley9043:

I have always purchased the UV Glow for my machines and have been very happy with it. Scott will tell you it is the most popular and I would recommend it. You need the GI module. Though they say the Invisible-Shield is recommended, it is really a preference. I don't have it on my Shadow because they were not available when I bought the lights, but I bought them for my Iron Maiden. You should check out some videos to see the difference.

I recommend Pinstadium+Invis-Shield for Shadow. The ability to tint white, red, or blue is really nice.

I tried the UV Glow flashers and they are neat, but I disabled them. Too much flash for me personally.

#5014 1 year ago
Quoted from Burley9043:

I have always purchased the UV Glow for my machines and have been very happy with it. Scott will tell you it is the most popular and I would recommend it. You need the GI module. Though they say the Invisible-Shield is recommended, it is really a preference. I don't have it on my Shadow because they were not available when I bought the lights, but I bought them for my Iron Maiden. You should check out some videos to see the difference.

I’m thinking the UV would clash with the Art Deco theme. But good to know it can be disabled.

Also does the GI module do anything though on Shadow, since it doesn’t have interactive GI?

#5015 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I’m thinking the UV would clash with the Art Deco theme. But good to know it can be disabled.
Also does the GI module do anything though on Shadow, since it doesn’t have interactive GI?

Shadow does dim the GI with the magnet lock. If you have LEDs and no LEDOCD, then I don't think you'll need it. However, if you do, you'll lose most of the effect.

#5016 1 year ago
Quoted from holmstarrunner:

Shadow does dim the GI with the magnet lock. If you have LEDs and no LEDOCD, then I don't think you'll need it. However, if you do, you'll lose most of the effect.

Thank you for this info. I didn’t realize this, I only thought the GI effects were where the RGB color changes like in Star Wars. I’ll get the GI feature (and likely the UV flasher since I have purple flashers so this should fit best).

#5017 1 year ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

Pinstadium is vastly overpriced, offers no real options other than bling, bling and more bling. I asked in his forum why he didn't offer something without all the bells and whistles and he wouldn't even answer and I asked more than once. The only conclusion I can come up with is this guy is a giant money grab. I'd love to see an option to just light the game up better that just turns on and off with the game. At $300+ a pop most can't even afford it.

Are you kidding me? Outside of misrepresenting or not providing support, I will never understand the logic of people referring to any business that is selling a viable product to a customer base that is receptive of the product/pricing as a "money grab". That is what business is folks. Making as much profit as you can off your intellectual property, product or service while maintaining the perception of "value" on the consumer's side. This guy made a very, very cool product that is obviously priced correctly based on the "making bank" comments on this thread. People don't spend months/years in R&D to create a product and then price it just above time and material to sell a "unit". Good lord. Quit your crying and go glue some LED strips to the sides of your game if you want a cheap ass solution.

#5018 1 year ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Are you kidding me? Outside of misrepresenting or not providing support, I will never understand the logic of people referring to any business that is selling a viable product to a customer base that is receptive of the product/pricing as a "money grab". That is what business is folks. Making as much profit as you can off your intellectual property, product or service while maintaining the perception of "value" on the consumer's side. This guy made a very, very cool product that is obviously priced correctly based on the "making bank" comments on this thread. People don't spend months/years in R&D to create a product and then price it just above time and material to create a unit. Good lord. Quit your crying and go glue some LED strips to the sides of your game if you want a cheap ass solution.

Totally agree, Pin Stadium seems to me to be a premium quality product that delivers. I'd rather have something with all the bells and whistles that makes my pin look beautiful, than a budget product that has corners cut just to deliver on the cheap.

#5019 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Post a pic of the CPU board so we can see if that is the problem.

Sorry, not too savvy with the electronics of the game, here are some pictures I took. Please let me know if I should post pictures of a specific area if that would be more helpful. The game is generally in great condition and has many upgrades as you can see. So it should have been taken care of by the previous owner.

Problem again, start up button won't work on start up of the game. Takes about 5 minutes to warm up and then will eventually work. Also game trigger doesn't make a sound before the game starts up.

Thanks for the assistance!
shadow board 1 (resized).jpgshadow board 2 (resized).jpgshadow board 4 (resized).jpgshadoww baord 3 (resized).jpg

#5020 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Thanks for the assistance!

Can you take a close up pic of the bottom half of the board just to the right of the batteries with the display panel removed.

#5021 1 year ago

It looks like one of your led indicators are not lit. Did you check all your fuses?

#5022 1 year ago

Shadow with pinstadium by request

20181101_231001 (resized).jpg
#5023 1 year ago

During my full shop job I’ve run into a problem. The set screw in the back diverter is stripped out and I’m unable to take it apart. Any suggestions on removal and replacement set screw?

#5024 1 year ago

I just joined the club. I purchased the Shadow a couple of weeks ago.

It’s on its way to HEP, to get a restoration.

#5025 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Shadow with pinstadium by request
[quoted image]

Very beautiful! Thanks for sharing. Which flasher color did you go with?

Nice city decal

#5026 1 year ago
Quoted from Coz:

Any suggestions on removal and replacement set screw?

Yikes. I assume you’re talking about the small black screw that you remove with the Allen wrench? Those are tricky business. I had a hard time getting mine out simply using the right tools.

I would try to find an Allen key that’s a size just too big, and hammer it into the hole. I used to do that with stripped lug nuts on cars (except I’d use a socket a size too small).

It might just give you the bite it needs to break loose, then you can start the quest to find a replacement screw.

#5027 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Yikes. I assume you’re talking about the small black screw that you remove with the Allen wrench? Those are tricky business. I had a hard time getting mine out simply using the right tools

I got the left side done with no issues. I replaced the plastics and leds and put it all back together. Hopefully I can find something to get the tiny set screw out and find a replacement. Any advice is appreciated.

#5028 1 year ago
Quoted from Coz:

I got the left side done with no issues. I replaced the plastics and leds and put it all back together. Hopefully I can find something to get the tiny set screw out and find a replacement. Any advice is appreciated.

If you don't already, get a set of hex allen head bits that are impact ready and hammer drill/rotary hammer. I use this combo when I'm taking apart a game I'm restoring as the set screws are almost always rusted or torqued way too much. When re-assembling, just do it by hand so they aren't over torqued.

As mbaumle mentoned, you may have to try to hammer a bit in there. Alternatively, there are screw/blot extractor tools for stripped bolts. Here is one (normal sized):
amazon.com link »

And here is a "micro" one that might work for such a small screw:
amazon.com link »

Good luck!

#5029 1 year ago
2D5B89A8-AD00-4BAA-B21E-03CB66D6B4CF (resized).png
#5030 1 year ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

Totally agree, Pin Stadium seems to me to be a premium quality product that delivers. I'd rather have something with all the bells and whistles that makes my pin look beautiful, than a budget product that has corners cut just to deliver on the cheap.

The only one I've seen installed began to fall appart after a few months. The best way to use this product would be to route a groove into the sides of the cabinet and place them there. I did not buy because I did not need another thing to remove before liffing the playfield up.

#5031 1 year ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

The only one I've seen installed began to fall appart after a few months. The best way to use this product would be to route a groove into the sides of the cabinet and place them there. I did not buy because I did not need another thing to remove before liffing the playfield up.

I have bugged Stern for 5 years to cut a channel and mount angle LEDs in the Cabinet.....

#5032 1 year ago

So I have several issues with my machine, no surprises that it need some TLC when I bought it and the price reflected that but here are the current issues...

1. No GI lights in the backback (both strings are out) fuse F107 is good and the j120 pins were replaced so I'll need to pull the power driver to see what's going on in the back.

2. All the lights on column 8 are on before machine fully boots and burn very hot and will eventually burn them out. Looks like j138/139 Q91 issue?

3. While testing my Sanctum repair job and the magnet this piece fell off and I cannot locate where it goes, it's shown on page 2.28 in the manual #20 (not labeled on diagram) part # 01-13590 coil wire guard. Anyone have a picture of where it goes?

Coil guard (resized).jpginside back box driver board 1 (resized).jpg
#5033 1 year ago
Quoted from Cserold:

i'm typically a big translucent fan but Shadow is one of a very few games where I prefer black.

Same here. I like translucent rubber for most games, but black rubber looks great on The Shadow (in my opinion).

#5034 1 year ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

3. While testing my Sanctum repair job and the magnet this piece fell off and I cannot locate where it goes, it's shown on page 2.28 in the manual #20 (not labeled on diagram) part # 01-13590 coil wire guard. Anyone have a picture of where it goes?[quoted image][quoted image]

Here is a quick pic:

bracket (resized).jpg
#5035 1 year ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

So I have several issues with my machine, no surprises that it need some TLC when I bought it and the price reflected that but here are the current issues...
1. No GI lights in the backback (both strings are out) fuse F107 is good and the j120 pins were replaced so I'll need to pull the power driver to see what's going on in the back.
2. All the lights on column 8 are on before machine fully boots and burn very hot and will eventually burn them out. Looks like j138/139 Q91 issue?
3. While testing my Sanctum repair job and the magnet this piece fell off and I cannot locate where it goes, it's shown on page 2.28 in the manual #20 (not labeled on diagram) part # 01-13590 coil wire guard. Anyone have a picture of where it goes?[quoted image][quoted image]

ive looked all around my machine, can't find that part anywhere honestly.

#5036 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Here is a quick pic:[quoted image]

Thanks, perfect, got it!

Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

ive looked all around my machine, can't find that part anywhere honestly.

Thank you for looking.

#5037 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Here is a quick pic:[quoted image]

Quoted from tiltmonster:

Thanks, perfect, got it!

Thank you for looking.

There was a cardboard thing wrapped around the coil.lugs to ensure that the lugs dont touch that metal piece and short out. Its in the wrong position in that picture
.

#5038 1 year ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

There was a cardboard thing wrapped around the coil.lugs to ensure that the lugs dont touch that metal piece and short out. Its in the wrong position in that picture
.

Yup, I realized what was going on once you posted the pic, thank you for the help! Now about this column issue...

#5039 1 year ago

I will be having my only sale on Custom Wood Gun Grips for your Shadow Pinball!

Each set will be $10 off with Free Shipping!

Once they are Gone....Thats it! No more to be made!

Maple Grip2 (resized).pngWalnut Grip Mercury Dimes Inlay (resized).jpgWalnut Grip2 (resized).jpggrip1 Leopard wood (resized).jpggrip2 Red Heartood (resized).jpg
#5040 1 year ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I will be having my only sale on Custom Wood Gun Grips for your Shadow Pinball!
Each set will be $10 off with Free Shipping!
Once they are Gone....Thats it! No more to be made!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I highly recommend these... they feel very solid when you launch the ball and are very distinguished.

#5041 1 year ago

Sometimes my TS will think the ball drained when I am still playing. Sometimes it will spit out two balls. Most of the time it plays normal. All the trough optos seem to be working ok in switch mode. It seems to happen randomly. Anyone have any suggestions?

#5042 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Sometimes my TS will think the ball drained when I am still playing. Sometimes it will spit out two balls. Most of the time it plays normal. All the trough optos seem to be working ok in switch mode. It seems to happen randomly. Anyone have any suggestions?

Did you recently replace any switches with diodes?

I had a similar experience with strange behavior on my Shadow, and it was because I installed the diode backwards on a newly replaced switch.

Reversed it, and everything was good.

#5043 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Sometimes my TS will think the ball drained when I am still playing. Sometimes it will spit out two balls. Most of the time it plays normal. All the trough optos seem to be working ok in switch mode. It seems to happen randomly. Anyone have any suggestions?

Quoted from Scoot:

Sometimes my TS will think the ball drained when I am still playing. Sometimes it will spit out two balls. Most of the time it plays normal. All the trough optos seem to be working ok in switch mode. It seems to happen randomly. Anyone have any suggestions?

When it happends check if There is a ball in the ball trough 1 position, magnetized trough ball can cause the balls not móving on it, sorry for my english

#5044 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Sometimes my TS will think the ball drained when I am still playing. Sometimes it will spit out two balls. Most of the time it plays normal. All the trough optos seem to be working ok in switch mode. It seems to happen randomly. Anyone have any suggestions?

I had a comparable issue. Replacing the capacitor on the opto board fixed it.

#5045 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

I had a comparable issue. Replacing the capacitor on the opto board fixed it.

Curious how you figured out a cap was bad? Was it by a visual check or can you test them with a meter?

Quoted from Cusanus:

When it happends check if There is a ball in the ball trough 1 position, magnetized trough ball can cause the balls not móving on it, sorry for my english

All my machines suffer from ball magnetism. I didn’t expect TS would have a problem since there are no magnets. I hope this is the problem since it would be the easiest to fix.
*edit* I’m a dumb ass and was thinking about another pin when responding. Of course it does. In fact it’s probably hands down the best fricken magnet in all of pinball!

Quoted from RTS:

Did you recently replace any switches with diodes?
I had a similar experience with strange behavior on my Shadow, and it was because I installed the diode backwards on a newly replaced switch.
Reversed it, and everything was good.

Thanks for the responses. This will give me some things to check. I did replace a switch about a month ago but I put the diode exactly in the same position. I will look at it again.

#5046 1 year ago

There is a magnet in Shadow. The ball lock.

#5047 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I put the diode exactly in the same position.

That doesn't mean its correct.

#5048 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

There is a magnet in Shadow. The ball lock.

Oops! I was not thinking straight. I was thinking about another pin I had when I was responding. Feel stupid.

#5049 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

That doesn't mean its correct.

So when replacing a switch, there is no guarantee that placing the wires and diode in the same spot will be correct?

#5050 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Curious how you figured out a cap was bad? Was it by a visual check or can you test them with a meter?

It appeared fine, upon pulling it on the base it barely started to leak. Tested bad out of circuit. It's a cheap part I replace it on all my games now.

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