High Falls, NY
This should help (caption and listing mention the pin)
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=105&picno=7365
(Topic ID: 110586)
Linked Games
Atlantis
Gottlieb, 1975
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1 week later
Quoted from wayner:in all likelihood they will be perished to an extent and, for me at least, replacements were hard to come by.
I have asked Steve about these before and he sold the last of his NOS years ago.......sadly, no plans to have them reproduced. The rubber deteriorates to the point of being brittle enough that removal is not advised. 
Pretty hard to weld that and not distort the rod/ring geometry. Not to mention, PBR has them in stock for $4.84. I don't use the loose style mylar protectors, but some do for the sake of originality. This is one area that I think is better protected with self adhesive style mylars. Yes, others will nay say this, but look at the originals. Very hard to keep dirt from getting under them again. You will have to find those elsewhere, as Steve (PBR) was not happy with the quality his supplier delivered and has stopped selling them. (I got some from Marco Supply).
Quoted from BCpinhead:This is a dumb question as the cover says "100 pts when light" on the pop target cap, but the pop targets should or should not have 455 blinker bulbs in them? This machine came with a 455 in one and nothing in the other. ??
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Pops are lit unless the score motor is cycling (opens a switch to them as it circles) Standard bayonet style (#47) bulbs will suffice here though there are more specific types available (low profile to avoid melting the caps).
Quoted from DirtFlipper:Should not have 455s in them. Replace with 47s.
The "when lit" part is because when the score motor runs, they are unlit as they won't register a score while the score motor is busy tallying something else.
beat me to it! 
DF is right about the paint removal issue. I use them on my restorations as I always clear coat my touch ups to protect them. That is a bit beyond basic maintenance.....Also, If you are going to take things apart, best to do all of it at once (full inspection/rebuild) so you don't have to go back in.
Quoted from MikeO:You scared me in this comment as I utilize the non adhesive trim rings on all of my EM games. Jimmy at PBR dispelled this today by saying they have these in stock with no disruption to their supply.
Sorry, I meant the self-adhesive style no longer available from them! 
1 week later
Quoted from BCpinhead:what would the optimum gap distance be for the two switches on the left hand sling shot bumper? Trial and error?
Ovbiously you don't want that rapid fire of the slingshot kicker, but it should be close enough that the ball will set if off with a slight bounce. If it's too far apart, you will not get much action from that sling. (this will make the game play too easy) Good Luck, glad you are getting some good reward for your efforts.
Quoted from wayner:That's interesting DF. On El Dorado the 10 target bank is supported by two rubbers but with posts in the centre. I take it that could also be a mod on Atlantis to reduce the ball Strike Force particularly in the centre region.
The difference in post/rubber set up may have to do with the way the game is laid out. Since Atlantis targets only get a raking shot from the flippers (less potential direct force), as opposed to a direct shot as in Eldorado. 
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