(Topic ID: 225862)

The reanimation of Gen. Yagov - An F-14 Tomcat restoration


By cletus14

7 months ago



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  • 186 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 hours ago by cletus
  • Topic is favorited by 27 Pinsiders

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#45 6 months ago

Some good info on your experience with the cab stencils. I am by no means a cab pro at all, I only have a couple games experience. enough to know there are great stencils and crap. I went to the link for your stencils and they look pretty darn good, and it seems like once you learned from one side, it all worked well.
There is nothing better that a "real" restoration. Not to take away from folks who do great work fixing up games. If you are a control freak, or perfectionist (its the same thing) the only way to do it is like this.

When I was doing the pf for this game. He made it very clear that he wanted the best I could do. I didnt really realize at the time the amount of effort he was going to invest. Its a reminder for me to stay on my game.

When it is done I will give you 1600 for it.

1 month later
#64 5 months ago

Looking awesome!!. Again this is so inspirational. If I can swing the money to make the rent, I am going to do my amazing spiderman.

I have also had some glue squirt hijinx. have to be careful!. worst case senerio, acetone.

It looks like you did but I want to suggest to people to mount your t nuts on the bench with the pf supported under the t nut. you dont want yo be pounding on the pf, while it is just supported around the edges. It helps so much to get the clear out of the holes (on the top side) before you install. For the last year or so, every set of coats, when I sand, I also go thru with a dremil and grind the clear out of the t nut holes and the drain lane holes. Now thanks to this post, I am also dremmiling the edges of the areas that are cut or countersunk so the ramp ends or assemblies sit below the surface level. So I have all ready made one adjustment to my process from this feedback.

I am also glad to know that the dimples were accurate. this is not always the case with other pf manufactures.

2 months later
#84 3 months ago

I really enjoy watching your work come together. I could tell when we met that you meant business on this restore.
One way I have decided to look at things when it comes to reproduction parts. When it comes to shades of color, i dont mind if they are not the same as my original. I do mind if they dont look good, quality, or achieve what the original intent was. The reason I came to this conclusion, is from games like EBD and TAF, where there were so many different vendors and different runs with different parts, besides the fact that with the pf's and I am guessing the plastics, every day before a run they mixed the colors and checked against a sample they had. There has to be so many variables. Heck one of my biggest challenges when matching colors is they have a depth because many of the colors are achieved by layers of different colors on top of one another. Thats hard to replicate.

Anyway, like buttholes (god bless them) we all have opinions. This is the one I have settled on for now as for this subject.
I love the way this job is looking and how it is coming together.

It is a great opportunity that everyone should try to do if they can swing it. To do a restoration project. Something that will mean a lot and you will have it for a long time. Something that you can brag and feel good about. Something that you will exercise your best skills as well as learn several new ones. It can give a self- hating person a little bit to keep them among the living for a while longer. But dont underestimate the planning and sacrifice of time and resources that will be necessary. In my case I would have to save for a long time not for just the parts, and game, but for the time I wont be working. In my opinion, this kind of work is something I cant do at 10 at night after work (working on pinball all day). I would Take a week off work once I got it all together, and then I would still need to dedicate several weekends. So if you have family or any usual interaction with folks, you have to plan ahead for that also. Its a big commitment to do right.
I just talked to a friend who installed one of my pf's in his MM, and that is a huge job in my opinion. He has knocked out several games in his collection. Seems like one per winter. I would love to buy one of those restored games, but I am pretty sure he would sell others stuff first that mean a lot to him before considering selling the restored games.

Anyway thanks for sharing the experience. kruzman

#87 89 days ago

Concerning the pf lamp sockets, those are really important to determine if they should be replaced. My bud J.D, replaces or has replaced all of the lamp sockets when he buys an aprox pre 1985 game that he is going to keep for the collection. The results are a lot of bang for the buck. Not only are they nice and bright and reliable, but they are all the same brightness!!

I have seen plenty of that white oxidation or fungus under pf's. I would love to know the story behind it

#89 88 days ago

It been a while since I have worked on one, but are the topper flashers, voltage for gi lamps or voltage for flashers? I ask because I have LED flasher bulbs that are 360, plus lamps directed up I think they are 12 volt. I am convinced ts what they use in cop cars now. which by the way is way too bright, and dangerous. I know for their safety they want them bright, but the flashing red and blues are plenty bright to give someone a migraine if you are stuck next to them for a couple minutes.

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