(Topic ID: 235390)

The Pinside Touch-Up Paint Color Thread

By wolverinetuner

5 years ago


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There are 168 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 4.
#101 3 years ago
Quoted from phototamer:

In my opinion , since one goes into a great deal of trouble repainting the whole playfield, why not restore it to its original color ? The color we see now is darker and grey from years of exposure to smoke and light. Looking under the posts there is the original light blue color that the playfield had when new. I took that route with 2 of my em restorations and I do not regret it.

I prefer to touch-up rather than re-paint, which I can do relatively quickly. The color I’m matching is certainly aged and not original, and I applaud your efforts in repainting. As I said early in this thread, my work is not high-end. My goal is to make pins more presentable, and my Snow Derby was definitely not presentable when I got it. Although Snow Derby as a whole was a restoration (I went through pretty much everything in terms of mechanicals and artwork), I was content to touch up the playfield. It doesn’t look as nice as a complete re-paint, but I’m happy with the result.

Kudos to those who go to the effort to completely repaint to original colors, which I imagine involves airbrushing, replacing original lettering with decals, and clearcoating. And thank you, phototamer , for sharing your original repaint colors for Fast Draw on this thread. That playfield looks really nice!

1 week later
#102 3 years ago

Williams OXO

-Playfield cream: Michaels Ivory matte (straight from the bottle)
-Playfield light blue: 3 parts Michaels Blue Cloud premium satin, 2 parts Michaels Bright Palm matte, 1 part Americana Bright Blue matte (this turned out a little greener than ideal, but I felt it was passable)
-Playfield light green: 3 parts Michaels Apple Tart satin, 2 parts Michaels Bright Palm matte
-Playfield pink: 20 (not a typo) parts Michaels Neon Pink matte, 1 part Michaels Cherry premium satin
-Playfield dark green: 2 parts Michaels Mediterranean premium satin, 1 part Michaels Holiday Green satin
-Playfield dark blue: Americana Ultramarine Blue matte (straight from the bottle) NOTE: This was fine for small spots and thin planked paint lines, but was too dark and purplish for my taste on the large area of stripped paint from my removal of the right pop bumper mylar ring. After painting with that color, I painted over that large area again with the lighter and less-purplish Michaels Dark Blue satin, also straight from the bottle, and I was pleased with the end result. If I did it again, I would try a mixture of those two paints. I am including a separate photo of each of those bottles.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg86045508-D0C2-4F5F-A52F-9B0BE6F8A605 (resized).jpeg86045508-D0C2-4F5F-A52F-9B0BE6F8A605 (resized).jpeg549731D5-D5C7-4508-A115-DE4F02655087 (resized).jpeg549731D5-D5C7-4508-A115-DE4F02655087 (resized).jpeg
1 month later
#103 3 years ago

Williams Soccer Kick-Off 1958
Has anyone mathed the silver/gray color of the coin door as used on Williams EM machines. It appears to have two colours in a pattern that looks hammered but is actually flat.
See attached picture, ignore the dark blue hammerite and take a closer look at the centre circle where I removed the logo.

IMG_4090 (resized).jpegIMG_4090 (resized).jpeg
#104 3 years ago
Quoted from JacksonsInLiss:

Williams Soccer Kick-Off 1958
Has anyone mathed the silver/gray color of the coin door as used on Williams EM machines. It appears to have two colours in a pattern that looks hammered but is actually flat.
See attached picture, ignore the dark blue hammerite and take a closer look at the centre circle where I removed the logo.
[quoted image]

Unfortunately, I don’t think anyone who has asked for a particular color on this thread has gotten a response. I’m hoping more pinsiders will post their touch-up colors here. It might take some effort (this I know), but it could help others out. If you do, please include the name of both the pin manufacturer and the pin itself, so this thread can become a searchable mini-database. What is here so far is a start...

4 months later
#105 2 years ago

Williams Jig Saw

This is the most intricate playfield art I’ve ever touched up. It was also in the worst shape, with poor prior touchup and areas worn through to the wood. My touchup colors certainly weren’t perfect, but I’m pleased with the results.

-Playfield dark green: 5 parts Michaels Grass Green matte, 1 part Michaels Brown satin
F9BE0680-4614-4E76-930A-31C994D8D709 (resized).jpegF9BE0680-4614-4E76-930A-31C994D8D709 (resized).jpeg
-Playfield yellow: 1 part Michaels Yellow premium satin, 4 parts Michaels Mustard Yellow matte
6EFD3A29-D58A-45CB-B4DD-6AED845945BB (resized).jpeg6EFD3A29-D58A-45CB-B4DD-6AED845945BB (resized).jpeg
-Playfield cream: 4 parts Michaels Honey Mustard premium satin, 2 parts Americana Desert Sand matte, 1 part Michaels Light Orange matte (NOTE: I could not find a replacement for my Desert Sand bottle that I dropped and cracked, so I taped mine up; this color may no longer be available)
D8BAACFC-A2AD-4BD8-8BBA-E4ABE0049075 (resized).jpegD8BAACFC-A2AD-4BD8-8BBA-E4ABE0049075 (resized).jpeg
-Playfield blue/aqua: 2 parts Michaels Mediterranean premium satin, 2 parts Michaels Deep Sea Green premium satin, 2 parts Michaels Steel Blue premium satin, 1 part Michaels Green premium satin
D13E88C8-E7F2-42C3-BE2F-A73DA41C9F2A (resized).jpegD13E88C8-E7F2-42C3-BE2F-A73DA41C9F2A (resized).jpeg
-Playfield light green: 12 parts Michaels Bright Palm matte, 12 parts Michaels Yellow premium satin, 1 part Michaels Black satin (NOTE: After my initial touchup in light green, I tried to simplify with a changed formula, scribbling over my initial formula. The initial formula was much better, and this is my best guess at that inital formula from deciphering my notes.)
AC014890-31A4-4B3C-B8EA-2678751BEB18 (resized).jpegAC014890-31A4-4B3C-B8EA-2678751BEB18 (resized).jpeg
-Playfield red: Michaels Red Hot premium satin (straight from the bottle)
76ED5E78-A987-4F87-BD7A-B758C292C425 (resized).jpeg76ED5E78-A987-4F87-BD7A-B758C292C425 (resized).jpeg
-Playfield brown (which is in the puzzle picture only): Michaels Cafe Au Lait premium satin (straight from the bottle)
ABE359CF-67B7-4485-9101-3B8E83A04503 (resized).jpegABE359CF-67B7-4485-9101-3B8E83A04503 (resized).jpeg
-Playfield grey (which is in the puzzle picture only): Michaels Dark Taupe satin (straight from the bottle)
AE2A6F95-BFA9-4355-849C-DAABC1E90501 (resized).jpegAE2A6F95-BFA9-4355-849C-DAABC1E90501 (resized).jpeg
-Playfield Orange (which is in the puzzle picture only): 2 parts Michaels Mustard Yellow matte, 1 part Americana Spiced Pumpkin matte, 1 part Michaels Spanish Tile premium satin
6B282500-5376-412C-9A72-38DF7D933D02 (resized).jpeg6B282500-5376-412C-9A72-38DF7D933D02 (resized).jpeg
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#106 2 years ago

Nicely done!

2 months later
#108 2 years ago

Williams Jig Saw

The red legs on this pin were scratched up and didn’t match the cabinet orange/red very well. I found a rattle can that’s slightly darker than that color, but not way off, and better than the red on the legs before. I used Rustoleum American Accents 2X Ultra Cover Paint + Primer Satin Fire Orange.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#109 2 years ago

CreatexCreatex

The red from this Createx airbrush set seems to be a perfect match for the red areas of a Gottlieb Volcano (1981) upper play-field. I smeared some of the red on the upper area of the play-field and I could not even see the wet paint without getting light to hit the wet spot before I wiped it off.

I have very little experience with this paint but it's highly recommended, and can be thinned, sprayed, sponged, and brushed. It's normally flat, but their water-based polyurethane in gloss or satin can be mixed directly into the paint to make it more durable, and/or used as a primer, and/or a final top coat. The poly can be sanded when dry. Once I match the base color, I was planning on mixing the satin and gloss to match the existing play-field sheen.

• Createx #4011 is the thinner or reducer, for better brush flow or for spraying
• Createx #4050 is the gloss poly
• Createx #4051 is the satin poly

The red is about where my luck ends, as I had the total misconception I could match any color by mixing the primary colors in this set and adding white or black as needed. Wrong... white fades or mutes colors and black makes things muddy... if the color does not start out bright enough, there is nothing you can do except get a different color paint.

The orange for Volcano is a difficult story. I used various ratios of red and yellow from this kit to make the orange - 4 yellow to 1 red made orange. It's just not a good match... not even close... it starts out too red, then adding more yellow, makes the orange look too pinkish, then with a little more yellow it becomes something like orange sherbert. I tried starting with yellow and added red, and ended up in the same place. Adding a very tiny minute particle of blue or green will dampen the pinkish or sherbet look but it mutes it towards brown (which may work on other areas of the play-field).

From what I was reading, orange depends on your starting yellows and reds. Although the red is perfect for upper play-field areas, it's not the correct kind of red to make the orange for lower play-field areas. BTW, I was matching the colors that were preserved under the adhesive mylar by the lower slingshots, not the dirtier orange colors outside of the mylar. I only need touchups around pop-bumpers so not sure how far I will take this color-matching project.

Createx makes two other pre-mixed opaque orange colors I might try for a better starting point...

• Wicked Orange W004
• Wicked Detail Orange W054

#110 2 years ago
Quoted from sparky672:

[quoted image]
The red from this Createx airbrush set seems to be a perfect match for the red areas of a Gottlieb Volcano (1981) upper play-field. I smeared some of the red on the upper area of the play-field and I could not even see the wet paint without getting light to hit the wet spot before I wiped it off.
I have very little experience with this paint but it's highly recommended, and can be thinned, sprayed, sponged, and brushed. It's normally flat, but their water-based polyurethane in gloss or satin can be mixed directly into the paint to make it more durable, and/or used as a primer, and/or a final top coat. The poly can be sanded when dry. Once I match the base color, I was planning on mixing the satin and gloss to match the existing play-field sheen.
• Createx #4011 is the thinner or reducer, for better brush flow or for spraying
• Createx #4050 is the gloss poly
• Createx #4051 is the satin poly
The red is about where my luck ends, as I had the total misconception I could match any color by mixing the primary colors in this set and adding white or black as needed. Wrong... white fades or mutes colors and black makes things muddy... if the color does not start out bright enough, there is nothing you can do except get a different color paint.
The orange for Volcano is a difficult story. I used various ratios of red and yellow from this kit to make the orange - 4 yellow to 1 red made orange. It's just not a good match... not even close... it starts out too red, then adding more yellow, makes the orange look too pinkish, then with a little more yellow it becomes something like orange sherbert. I tried starting with yellow and added red, and ended up in the same place. Adding a very tiny minute particle of blue or green will dampen the pinkish or sherbet look but it mutes it towards brown (which may work on other areas of the play-field).
From what I was reading, orange depends on your starting yellows and reds. Although the red is perfect for upper play-field areas, it's not the correct kind of red to make the orange for lower play-field areas. BTW, I was matching the colors that were preserved under the adhesive mylar by the lower slingshots, not the dirtier orange colors outside of the mylar. I only need touchups around pop-bumpers so not sure how far I will take this color-matching project.
Createx makes two other pre-mixed opaque orange colors I might try for a better starting point...
• Wicked Orange W004
• Wicked Detail Orange W054

Thanks for contributing and also for including the pin manufacturer and name for searchability! I was starting to wonder if I should rename this “The Wolverinetuner Touch-Up Paint Color Thread”. I know I’m not the only one working to match colors, and I’m hoping it will become as customary for pinsiders to post their touch-up paint colors here as it is for posting on the popular “What Machine Did You Bring Home Today?” thread when they get a pin. It takes some time, but it can help other pinsiders.

As for color matching, please see post #88 above for a book I’ve found very helpful in paint mixing, which explains how the traditional color wheel often doesn’t work, and why mixing colors can end up with a muddy result.

#111 2 years ago
Quoted from wolverinetuner:

As for color matching, please see post #88 above for a book I’ve found very helpful in paint mixing, which explains how the traditional color wheel often doesn’t work, and why mixing colors can end up with a muddy result.

That's for sure. Almost went insane trying to get an off-white parchment color that didn't look yellow or gray.

While I can certainly appreciate the valid concept of the book, I'm pretty much done with complex matching. With this kit, black, white, blue, and green are the only other colors besides the red & yellow, so getting to the correct orange is impossible without another color of starting paint. For me, if I can't get a color off the shelf that's close enough to tweak, it's not going to happen.

BTW - looks like the green in this kit is another perfect match for Volcano (trees, leaves, thin stripes, etc.), but since there is very little of it on the play-field, it may be a moot point as any shade of green might get close enough. I'll report back as I go. EDIT: not exact match but was able to get this close enough.

#112 2 years ago
Quoted from sparky672:

Createx makes two other pre-mixed opaque orange colors I might try for a better starting point...

• Wicked Orange W004
• Wicked Detail Orange W054

Give the Createx Fluoro orange a go too.

Matt.

#113 2 years ago
Quoted from fattmatt1972:

Give the Createx Fluoro orange a go too.

I was about to tell you that makes no sense and post a photo to prove it. However, the photo seems to back up your suggestion more. My only concern is that the original playfield technically isn't fluorescent and the new fluorescent paint might reflect UV differently or glow and stand out more as a touchup... am I wrong?

Volcano OrangeVolcano Orange

For the Volcano green, I played around. The green on the playfield leans slightly toward lime. The green in the kit is the right tone, it's just too intense or too dark. I mixed 15-20 parts of green with 3-4 parts of yellow and 3-4 parts of white... and maybe ½ part of blue... and maybe the blue could be left out. This is very close depending on the type & location of green touchups. Since this playfield only uses green for some leaves, a couple trees, and narrow pinstripes and lettering, it might blend in better.

#114 2 years ago
Quoted from sparky672:

I was about to tell you that makes no sense and post a photo to prove it. However, the photo seems to back up your suggestion more. My only concern is that the original playfield technically isn't fluorescent and the new fluorescent paint might reflect UV differently or glow and stand out more as a touchup... am I wrong?

I will start by saying I am a sparky not an artist, I only recently started trying to paint and airbrush so my advice is far from experience based, more recent experimentation, google and an artist friends advice.

I must admit I only suggested the fluoro orange as I had seen it in Vid's playfield restoration thread as a suggestion with tricky oranges.
I am in the middle of a PZ touch up and that has very tricky orange parts but it is fluoro.

Try starting with yellow and add some fluoro orange and go from there.
Coming up from yellow seemed to work best for me.

In regards to the UV question, I don't think small amounts mixed with other colors will cause a problem but see my opening sentence above
Do you have a blacklight where the machine is?, never played under a UV light, would think it would be harder?

Matt.

#115 2 years ago
Quoted from fattmatt1972:

Do you have a blacklight where the machine is?, never played under a UV light, would think it would be harder?

No black-lights since my childhood in the 70's. But every light source contains UV, some more than others, and I was concerned that the color glow and reflection might be exaggerated under one light source vs another. I prefer incandescent lights. Color might look great during natural ambient daylight and crap under normal incandescent room lighting... I honestly don't know if this would be a bigger issue with paints labeled fluorescent.

Quoted from fattmatt1972:

I had seen it in Vid's playfield restoration thread as a suggestion with tricky oranges.

Perhaps mixing it with other colors would work out well. Something for me to consider.

EDIT: It looks like it would be a good match. However, the whole reason I'm spending the extra money to ship Createx rather than buying cheap acrylic paint at a local store is to avoid paint fade...

Fluorescent colors are NOT lightfast. Colors will eventually fade due to exposure to direct light.

Source: https://spraygunner.com/createx-airbrush-colors-fluorescent-orange-5409/

#116 2 years ago
Quoted from sparky672:

Fluorescent colors are NOT lightfast. Colors will eventually fade due to exposure to direct light.

For the small amount of fluoro you would mix with the other paint I wouldn't worry about it.

Matt.

2 weeks later
#117 2 years ago

1977 Williams Big Deal

This backglass had some flaking, a lot of it in translucent areas of the artwork. I sealed with Triple Thick, touched it up, and made the middle woman’s dress and the entire man on the right opaque. I left the band members in the left background translucent after touchup. I now have a large assortment of craft paint colors, so I found colors that were close straight from the bottle most of the time. Overall, I am satisfied with the result.

-Backglass orange: Americana Spiced Pumpkin matte (straight from the bottle)
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Backglass dark green: Michaels Green premium satin (straight from the bottle)
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Backglass purple: Americana Ultraviolet fluorescent (straight from the bottle) (NOTE: I used this for the collar of the man on the right, hoping at that point to possibly leave him translucent, but this color was too light when translucent and too dark when opaque. It makes his collar look a little more “groovy” and blends into the artwork well enough, so I don’t have a problem with the result. But if I were to do it again, I would try a lighter purple for opaque.)
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Backglass fleshtone: Americana Coral Blush matte (straight from the bottle) (NOTE: This was definitely darker than I wanted for opaque, but I only had some small spots to cover in this color.)
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Backglass light blue: Americana Indian Turquoise matte (straight from the bottle)
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Backglass light green: Americana Hauser Light Green matte (straight from the bottle)
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Backglass white: Americana Cool White (straight from the bottle)
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Backglass pink: 3 parts Americana Royal Fuchsia matte, 2 parts Michaels Rosemarie premium satin (NOTE: This came out darker than I wanted, but I used it for spots on the woman’s dress, which are not noticeable after I made it opaque.)
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Before photos from my seller:
F9646651-E698-4FE6-9956-5F1CB2E09BB5 (resized).pngF9646651-E698-4FE6-9956-5F1CB2E09BB5 (resized).png
72B9A984-A108-456E-813E-56F11A2F8448 (resized).png72B9A984-A108-456E-813E-56F11A2F8448 (resized).png
4C2A8E3B-CC82-468A-98AE-E91ED1C04F58 (resized).png4C2A8E3B-CC82-468A-98AE-E91ED1C04F58 (resized).png
After sealcoat and touchup:
65AFA55B-AD24-47AE-84A7-EFCB336A4A0E (resized).jpeg65AFA55B-AD24-47AE-84A7-EFCB336A4A0E (resized).jpeg
C40E82F8-A97F-4EC6-933A-5C96D310061A (resized).jpegC40E82F8-A97F-4EC6-933A-5C96D310061A (resized).jpeg

#118 2 years ago

1977 Williams Big Deal

-Playfield cream: 3 parts Michaels Ivory matte, 1 part Michaels Sage Green matte, 1 part Americana Sand Grey matte (NOTE: This came out a bit greyer than I wanted, but it seemed to blend in well enough on my playfield. My other attempts had a peach look, which stuck out and looked much worse, IMO.)
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Playfield yellow: Americana Bright Yellow matte (straight from the bottle)
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Playfield orange: Americana Spiced Pumpkin matte (straight from the bottle)
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Playfield light blue: 4 parts Michaels Pacific Coast premium satin, 1 part Michaels Grey matte
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Playfield red: Michaels Red premium satin (straight from the bottle)
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Playfield green: Americana Holly Green matte (straight from the bottle)
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Playfield before:
C956F5DD-2D20-4B9D-9163-83D7F1A33358 (resized).jpegC956F5DD-2D20-4B9D-9163-83D7F1A33358 (resized).jpeg
Playfield after cleaning, removal of pop bumper mylar rings, removal of old clearcoat and ball swirls with Magic Eraser and alcohol, and touchup:
E0006EC4-B576-44AB-BB88-42334C21176E (resized).jpegE0006EC4-B576-44AB-BB88-42334C21176E (resized).jpeg

2 months later
#119 2 years ago

I am looking for playfield color matching suggestions for a BALLY OLD CHICAGO.
Also has anyone used the Variable Color Muse, or Color Muse SE? I'm looking
to use one for playfield color matching, and the communities thoughts would be appreciated.

1 month later
#120 2 years ago

In the process of touching up an Aztec playfield. The red in the picture is almost a perfect match right out of the bottle.

Got lucky with getting a "white" for the wing touch ups.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good airbrush? I don't need top of the line but don't want something too cheap that it becomes a hassle either.

Thanks

red match (resized).JPGred match (resized).JPG

red touch up arm (resized).JPGred touch up arm (resized).JPG

playfield (resized).JPGplayfield (resized).JPG

white wing (resized).JPGwhite wing (resized).JPG

#121 2 years ago

This combination is usually close on most whites. Majority is buttermilk with a bit of the other two.

8BAA0FB0-4E78-4D46-971D-E98A8D270302 (resized).jpeg8BAA0FB0-4E78-4D46-971D-E98A8D270302 (resized).jpeg
1 month later
#122 2 years ago

So many cool ideas and colors for playfield restore, my question is cabinet related.
I am thinking about repainted my Gottlieb Atlantis and wondering what colors you guys use?
I was gonna do rattle cans and past repaints I used Krylon ivory white for the base. This seems kinda light.
Guess I'll go with Pinball Pimp stencils for the art.

#123 2 years ago

Nice shade of white on Aztec.

#124 2 years ago

Has anyone touched up a Space odyssey or Space mission playfield?

Any suggestions or advice appreciated. Color combos, satin or matte finish.

I tried touching up a couple of spots, On bare wood , primed with white on other areas.

Not sure about the look of it.
Thanks in advance.

20220327_194300 (resized).jpg20220327_194300 (resized).jpg
#125 2 years ago
Quoted from kingpinman:

Has anyone touched up a Space odyssey or Space mission playfield?
Any suggestions or advice appreciated. Color combos, satin or matte finish.
I tried touching up a couple of spots, On bare wood , primed with white on other areas.
Not sure about the look of it.
Thanks in advance.
[quoted image]

I’m in the middle of mixing for it. This is my next project after I finish up a Strato Flite.

21CE7C6F-E40D-4C22-9506-B10742BF22EF (resized).jpeg21CE7C6F-E40D-4C22-9506-B10742BF22EF (resized).jpeg
#126 2 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I’m in the middle of mixing for it. This is my next project after I finish up a Strato Flite.
[quoted image]

Who woulda' thought there was a touch of orange in there?! Always crazy to see what it takes to match colors.

#127 2 years ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Who woulda' thought there was a touch of orange in there?! Always crazy to see what it takes to match colors.

Im using the orange to knock down the vibrant teal, if you put a super small amount of the opposite color in the mix it slightly dirties it up. Im talking like just enough to cover the end of a toothpick and little by little it pulls the color down.
Some people think you should add obvious colors like brown or black but that will actually change the color.

Sometimes youll mix a color and it looks perfect but its just too "clean" or bright, adding the opposite color on the color wheel is like magic.

#128 2 years ago

I'll have to give that a shot next time, nice tip!

1 month later
#129 1 year ago
Quoted from Blake:

Awesome!
I appreciate the bits of info and you sharing your experiences. I read the whole thread. Lots of good color matches for games in the pipeline. Good stuff. I will take a closer look at the better brushes from Michael's. And i was using the hair dryer on a low heat setting so I will stop that. I'll also stir the paints rather then just shake them as it seems like your having good results doing so.
Here is a great blog that I have latched onto this evening. I think its a great source for anyone trying to do touch ups on pins or vids and is possibly struggling with color matching. - https://artintegrity.wordpress.com/2008/03/20/11-your-art-stories-here/
Here are a few pics of the successes of the evening. On the last photo in the top right corner you can see the horrible match on a purple I attempted. My fourth attempt. Its now been wiped off and ready for number five lol.
Thanks
Blake
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have a Gulfstream too! Please share your colors, I'm just getting started.

#130 1 year ago

Hi guys, thanks for this thread!
I'm just getting started. Where can I get a color wheel and will that help me to preview mixed colors? Also is there a good color app that I can take a pic and bring to the store with me to choose my paints? I tried taking a regular photo but the colors are off...best lighting for this?
Thanks!

#131 1 year ago
Quoted from Skybug:

I have a Gulfstream too! Please share your colors, I'm just getting started.

I will try to find some info in regards to the colors I used but from my experience it is really game to game with these older machines. UV damage among other wear really changes playfield and cabinet color differently. Even within the same game/playfield. Gulfstream for me was a great example of this as the purple on one end of the pf was a different tone then the other end. As was the teal if I remember correctly. Unless what your painting is going to be stripped and repainted in full I think learning how to blend/color match is the most valuable tool. Obviously there are examples where a good color make/model works straight out of the bottle and thats great when it happens. So far I'm not very lucky.

Also check out my Gulfstream restoration thread as there may be info on colors in there: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1973-williams-gulfstream-restoration

1 week later
#132 1 year ago

Sonic Super Straight

As probably with most Sonics, this backglass was in very good shape. I coated with Triple Thick first for extra protection. There were just a couple small spots where ink had probably been scraped off along the way, and the majority of each of those spots was black, so no color matching to do for that part, just painted black, as always. The only color of note that I had to work on was a tiny spot of dark blue in “2” for number of players that was letting the lamp shine through, even after the black covered most of that ink scrape.

-Backglass dark blue: Americana Primary Blue matte (straight from the bottle)

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#133 1 year ago

What color have you use to repaint 2” Gottlieb flippers? These are a few years old and I always end up wiping off part of the blue.

543DFA8A-1706-4C97-9924-9BE20FA6266E (resized).jpeg543DFA8A-1706-4C97-9924-9BE20FA6266E (resized).jpeg
#134 1 year ago

We have a new Space Odyssey/Mission thread you could ask for paint colors in as well.

#135 1 year ago

How nice that this thread is still active, right when I needed to figure out how to match the colors on my Spirit of 76 playfield! Apparently, OP has already done that for me and now I've got a nice little shopping list for Michael's all ready to go! Gotta spend a whole seven bucks, I think it was...

#136 1 year ago

Sonic Super Straight

As with most Sonics, the original playfield clearcoat on this pin was mostly still in great shape. The only areas that needed touch-up were a couple spots where the very thin mylar rings around the pop bumpers had worn through, and a small area around the mini-post that protects the spinner mechanism. Since I will put on new mylar rings and the area around the mini-post should never see ball contact, the craft paint for touch-up should hold up without any need to mess with the existing clear coat. I didn’t “nail it” on any of these colors, but they were close enough in these hidden/small areas, IMO.

-Playfield yellow: 8 parts Michaels Yellow premium satin, 1 part Michaels Violet satin, 1 part Michaels Neon Yellow premium satin
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Playfield red: 1 part Michaels Red Hot premium satin, 1 part Americana True Red matte
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
-Playfield dark blue: 2 parts Americana Deep Midnight Blue matte, 2 parts Americana Mermaid Tail matte, 1 part Americana Royal Navy matte
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Before and after:
A51FB33F-D314-45FC-B6CD-5904F4CF8CAE (resized).jpegA51FB33F-D314-45FC-B6CD-5904F4CF8CAE (resized).jpegEC89ACE7-2F77-444D-B6C8-F21A0E0E5C90 (resized).jpegEC89ACE7-2F77-444D-B6C8-F21A0E0E5C90 (resized).jpeg image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgA8AE94BC-FE8B-4AA9-B3A0-713FC7870302 (resized).jpegA8AE94BC-FE8B-4AA9-B3A0-713FC7870302 (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#137 1 year ago

Sonic Super Straight

I earlier solidified the flaking cabinet and filled in flaked-away areas on the lower part of the cabinet sides, so I needed to paint parts of the cabinet. While certainly not a perfect match, I was pleased enough with this color mix that I also painted the entire front of the head, which covered up nicked-away areas and also gave a more uniform look than merely doing spot-touch-up.

-Cabinet cream: 7 parts Michaels Ivory matte, 1 part Michaels Grey matte, 1 part Americana Antique Gold matte, 2 parts Americana Sand Grey matte
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#138 1 year ago

Hi. Any experience touching up a Gottlieb Soccer playfield? My photo from iPad or phone doesn’t get a true color on the aqua. Photos taken inside and outside are darker than the playfield. The green, red and purple are true in a photo. Any hep with the colors to mix would be great

1C6C99B5-A5F6-450C-A4DB-6A49BF7FD3C2 (resized).jpeg1C6C99B5-A5F6-450C-A4DB-6A49BF7FD3C2 (resized).jpegF682BA94-B60C-4842-8831-7957DF995B6F (resized).jpegF682BA94-B60C-4842-8831-7957DF995B6F (resized).jpeg
4 weeks later
#139 1 year ago

I got a couple areas on my Freddy pin that have some cracks and some wear, not terrible but wouldn't mind touching up and protecting the area some. Would you say just the touch up alone helps protect any damage from potentially spreading ? Do you apply a clear coat right over the touch up area at all?

2 weeks later
#140 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerKraken:

I got a couple areas on my Freddy pin that have some cracks and some wear, not terrible but wouldn't mind touching up and protecting the area some. Would you say just the touch up alone helps protect any damage from potentially spreading ? Do you apply a clear coat right over the touch up area at all?

The acrylic craft paints I use would wear away from direct ball contact. If the touch-up paint is going to see ball contact, I’ve used mylar to protect it unless I’m doing a total playfield strip, which I clearcoat.

I’ve heard that enamel paint will stand up to ball wear, so that might be an option.

#141 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerKraken:

I got a couple areas on my Freddy pin that have some cracks and some wear, not terrible but wouldn't mind touching up and protecting the area some. Would you say just the touch up alone helps protect any damage from potentially spreading ? Do you apply a clear coat right over the touch up area at all?

Use Createx or some other airbrush paint. It is water soluble for easy cleanup and even though it is air brush paint you can apply with a regular artist paint brush. Apply in thin layers and set each layer with a heat gun/hair dryer. When color is done you can apply a layer of their clear and set that with heat too. It end up being quite durable and I have used it in several high traffic areas.

#142 1 year ago

great threads. I would like to attempt a PF restoration one day, I have nothing I want to restore and it is one of those project you cannot stop and when you suffer from severe ADHD like I do, it is hard to stay on top of something for too long before something else looks more attractive. lol

All that to say, I love it and I have worked on other projects that are intensive as this but not as long. I am particularly interested in decal installation and creation, semi tones, colour matching, wood grain matching (restoring a shooter lane for example) and everything else that comes along with painting.
I am curious about Air Brushing - looks cool and fun - and ultimately creating a perfect, OEM looking PF with perfect clear coating.

I know this is not the intention of this thread but I believe the knowledge in this thread will complement nicely all of the above.

Thanks!

1 month later
#143 1 year ago

Bally Joust

This Joust backglass had flaking in every basic area of the translucent artwork. I have separately documented all my work on the backglass in another thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-joust-backglass-from-unpresentable-to-presentable

With so much area and so many colors in the artwork to cover, I tried to use paint colors straight from the bottle if I felt they were close enough. I ended up mixing only two colors. I didn’t nail these colors, but I believe they were close enough and filled in nicely.

PLEASE NOTE: These colors were only used for artwork touchup, not for other areas, such as letters and numbers. For those areas, I scraped off the ink and airbrushed using different paints. After the massive amount of acrylic craft paint touch-up on the translucent artwork on this backglass, which would look bad with light behind it, I made all the artwork opaque by thickly covering it with grey acrylic craft paint, as I show in the separate thread linked above.

-Backglass maroon/purple: Americana Cranberry Wine matte (straight from the bottle)
3EBD6007-306B-4A06-8A19-2C7440EACA20 (resized).jpeg3EBD6007-306B-4A06-8A19-2C7440EACA20 (resized).jpeg
-Backglass dark blue: Americana Electric Blue fluorescent (straight from the bottle)
49EB018A-54CF-4BAE-ABC5-11BDA4FCA8C7 (resized).jpeg49EB018A-54CF-4BAE-ABC5-11BDA4FCA8C7 (resized).jpeg
-Backglass medium blue: Michaels Tide Pool premium satin (straight from the bottle)
30755372-5153-47B8-9B15-B2BF6C55B4D8 (resized).jpeg30755372-5153-47B8-9B15-B2BF6C55B4D8 (resized).jpeg
-Backglass light blue: Michaels Pacific Coast premium satin (straight from the bottle)
9ACD27B8-1BAD-4B94-A661-57FE4B82189F (resized).jpeg9ACD27B8-1BAD-4B94-A661-57FE4B82189F (resized).jpeg
-Backglass burnt orange: Americana Warm Sunset matte (straight from the bottle)
DD859D22-6C86-4719-AA93-A66779601A4C (resized).jpegDD859D22-6C86-4719-AA93-A66779601A4C (resized).jpeg
-Backglass orange: Americana Bright Orange matte (straight from the bottle)
75CB8195-1529-44EF-8EB6-0880F584F11E (resized).jpeg75CB8195-1529-44EF-8EB6-0880F584F11E (resized).jpeg
-Backglass yellow: 2 parts Americana Bright Yellow matte, 1 part Americana Lemon Yellow matte
9651AD1E-E775-4368-85B7-6292DDEE40C3 (resized).jpeg9651AD1E-E775-4368-85B7-6292DDEE40C3 (resized).jpeg
-Backglass peach: 4 parts Michaels Flesh satin, 2 parts Michaels Deep Coral satin, 2 parts Michaels Yellow satin, 1 part Michaels Grey matte
7C07A224-63C8-4BB0-8948-C891BE2D9772 (resized).jpeg7C07A224-63C8-4BB0-8948-C891BE2D9772 (resized).jpeg

#144 1 year ago

Here are some before and after photos.

Before (The first before photo has masking tape that I used as a guide for the score reel windows when I did airbrushing.):
D23F87F9-17BC-47F6-ABE2-96018A76E2A5 (resized).jpegD23F87F9-17BC-47F6-ABE2-96018A76E2A5 (resized).jpeg4AA70537-B00C-4CA4-954A-54E6712C0CE9 (resized).jpeg4AA70537-B00C-4CA4-954A-54E6712C0CE9 (resized).jpeg
After:
28DADF5B-82D4-4446-A43C-25296226F2EA (resized).jpeg28DADF5B-82D4-4446-A43C-25296226F2EA (resized).jpeg90A128DC-D87A-498F-B770-BB005AF8AD5F (resized).jpeg90A128DC-D87A-498F-B770-BB005AF8AD5F (resized).jpeg17160195-44EB-419D-9274-7CF63713B793 (resized).jpeg17160195-44EB-419D-9274-7CF63713B793 (resized).jpeg

#145 1 year ago

Gottlieb Robowar
Using createx paints here are the colors , and some before and after.

Mauve
1 red , 1 yellow, 1 white , 2 sky blue

Blue
1 blue, 1 white , 2 sky blue

Red
2 red , 1 yellow

20201007_155415 (resized).jpg20201007_155415 (resized).jpg20201007_155444 (resized).jpg20201007_155444 (resized).jpg20201220_140143 (resized).jpg20201220_140143 (resized).jpg20221012_203451 (resized).jpg20221012_203451 (resized).jpg20221016_102129 (resized).jpg20221016_102129 (resized).jpg20221016_102313 (resized).jpg20221016_102313 (resized).jpg20221016_102401 (resized).jpg20221016_102401 (resized).jpg
#146 1 year ago
Quoted from phototamer:

Gottlieb Robowar
Using createx paints here are the colors , and some before and after.
Mauve
1 red , 1 yellow, 1 white , 2 sky blue
Blue
1 blue, 1 white , 2 sky blue
Red
2 red , 1 yellow [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice color matching and excellent job! Did you air brush too?

#147 1 year ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Very nice color matching and excellent job! Did you air brush too?

Not on this one. All by hand

#148 1 year ago
Quoted from phototamer:

Not on this one. All by hand

I so impressed how artists can do the things they do.

#149 1 year ago
Quoted from phototamer:

Not on this one. All by hand

How did you do all the flipper section by hand?
Is that a huge decal and you painted the solid colour by hand correct?
If not you are not human lol

#150 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

How did you do all the flipper section by hand?
Is that a huge decal and you painted the solid colour by hand correct?
If not you are not human lol

My thoughts as well. I'm ok with a paintbrush but that work is amazing to be done by hand. It's extremely difficult to get an exact color match let alone the detail done to perfection. I thought it was done with decals as well.

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