(Topic ID: 308430)

RUSH Pinball Official Owners Club-“Straining the Limits of Machine and Man”

By mrossman5

2 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #91 Rush song list Posted by Bill2112Rush (2 years ago)

Post #1378 RULES. Link to RUSH Rulesheet Posted by Av8 (2 years ago)

Post #1389 TECH: SWITCHES. Lockdown bar action button not working - fix Posted by PinMonk (2 years ago)

Post #1818 MOD: SOUND. Amp DIY upgrade for RUSH Posted by TinyBlackDog (2 years ago)

Post #2123 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Shooter lane adjustment to stop rattling ball launch Posted by Coyohtay (2 years ago)

Post #3107 TECH: SOUND. Headphone Jack no-boot when installed workaround Posted by AUKraut (2 years ago)

Post #3632 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Scoop losing track of balls. Posted by Schwaggs (2 years ago)


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#284 2 years ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Check with Jason at Classic Game Rooms. I have bought several from him for prices that are far below the typical Ebay ones. He just posted on his facebook page the other day that he had gotten in a shipment of the Rush banners, too (but he has many others to choose from as well).

Thank you for this recommendation, within an hour’s time(through email even), confirmed availability, price, and paid, deal done. Two days later, it’s here. Great service from Jason, I’ll second this recommendation.

#289 2 years ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

my Dad says its 7 degrees outside

Alright, since you left the door open.....

“Your mom just rolled over, and told me it was 69 degrees in the house.”

Couldn’t let a “mom joke” opportunity go to waste, lol.

2 weeks later
#677 2 years ago
Quoted from Deez:

What's the best Rush LP? I'm jamming out to these tunes and want to grab some vinyl to get into the deep cuts

For an all around mix of Rush material, go with Chronicles. You can find it on vinyl, CDs a little easier. Good mix of their main known, and some off the wall favorites. I’ve gone through 3 copies of Chronicles throughout time, a great go to when you can’t decide which album to listen to.

#1036 2 years ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Put on a few more games last night, and I'm still kinda lost. I think a good code update would be to include a little more instruction on what the hell I'm supposed to be doing, particularly when you start a mode. It pauses (while the ball held in the Time Machine) as it starts the Song Mode ... it shows the album cover and song name on the screen -- why not include instructions then and give me a chance to understand what I'm supposed to do? Example: "The Big Money -- hit all pink shots then do this/that". Every mode feels like it's just "hit all the things" and I'm not clear what the differences are.
The other thing that's driving me batty is the constant overlap of modes. I was in some mode (lost track), and then I suddenly started Bastille Day. In the middle of Bastille Day, I activated Big Money. During Big Money, I triggered Far Cry multiball. During Far Cry multiball, I somehow ended up doing One Little Victory victory laps. I have no idea what the hell is going on. I know some of this understanding will eventually work itself out as I play it more, but it's impossible to follow what I'm supposed to be doing if I keep starting some other new mode every ten seconds on the top of some other mode.
Comparing to Game of Thrones, for example, sure I can stack modes -- but I can choose to do that and they start at the same time (or when I add another, like Wall Multiball, it pauses to tell me I'm adding something else). On this game, it feels like, PLAY THIS MODE - NOW PLAY THIS MODE - NOW ADD THIS MODE - HERE'S MORE BALLS - PLAY THIS TOO - EVERYTHING IS LIT - OMGWTFBBQ
Again, to be clear, I love this game -- but it needs a little more structure/organization. Does Stern read this thread or am I ranting to the void?

So what you’re saying, the machine plays “exactly” how a musician learns/plays a Rush song? I’ve had many of those nights, lol.

#1277 2 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

Holy sh!t. There's enough Rush LE flippers out there to have their own thread. 3 screen caps and I don't even get them all.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I love the one ad stating “Unfortunately I have to sell it....”
....but I’m asking $4K more.

Explain to me, the value these people have added to the game, to ask/expect $2-4K over MSRP. I know their reasoning(or can gather), but want them to actually explain how they added that kind of value to a machine that’s still in the box, lol.

Wet dreams I guess, there was one only a couple of hours from me, and had their price actually been based in reality, it would have been sold and in my house by now.

People aren’t here to financially support your overspending habit people.....

#1321 2 years ago
Quoted from thekaiser82:

At this time I think listing to $12.5k is probably the highest to break even depending if you had to pay taxes and shipping. $11.1k + $900 tax ~8% + $500 shipping on the high end. Folks listing higher than that are seeking bonus IMO.

I’m with you until the part about shipping, it’s their own ignorance or poor planning, or just plain greed. The latter being mostly what I’m seeing. But it does help mark off who not to do business with

Yea I’m disheartened that I’m not getting an LE, as I wanted that whole NIB experience for this particular title, but not enough to sweat it. Life moves on, it’s just a machine.

Mainly I was looking to see if any of them had the balls to reply and actually justify the asking price hike. Yea, I know it’s been the trend lately, but the only way that fades, is by not paying an obscene amount over, for literally no improvement to justify the additional expense.

2 weeks later
#2611 2 years ago
Quoted from Craziestsinge:Did anybody see this yet? Rush released an official music video for YYZ.
Stern: If you're listening, please add YYZ to the game. If this is not possible, please add it with the topper. Thank you!

Pretty cool video, I always enjoyed this one, guy did amazing work with the movement and angles.

[video]

[/video]

3 weeks later
#4710 2 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

So who got 666?
Now's your time to shine

Someone posted it for sale here, a few weeks ago, not sure if a Pinsider bought it or not.

1 week later
#5064 2 years ago

It’s always nice, to be looking through multiple storage containers, for something completely different, and come across a purchase from 20+ years ago

Completely forgot about these....

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#5093 2 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Quick! Get that Queensryche away from the others before the cross contamination sets in!

It’s ok Gryz, I know you’re only a 1/3 of the way through the Rush catalog, still plenty more music to enjoy

I almost fully agree with PinMonk, except I’d go one album further, Promised Land was a great album all the way through as well. From their EP to PL, I’m a fan. Much beyond that, I still have a hard time getting into it.

Queensryche and Rush, were great stamina builders, when practicing drumming.

#5098 2 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:Honestly I'm stuck on Clockwork Angels.
Happy as hell that their last and final album was one of their finest.

It is a great album, as much as you’re starting to give these other albums a listen, spin Test For Echo a few times. I’d really be surprised if you didn’t start getting into that. There’s no way you can listen to it, and not start grooving on a few of the songs right away.

I will say with Rush, seeing them perform the material live, gives it a whole different dimension. To see and feel what they were attempting with the recording, completely changes the game. I wasn’t a huge fan of Snakes & Arrows or Vapor Trails, until I saw those tours, and witnessed the songs live. As much as I love the band, their studio recordings, just doesn’t represent them well enough. The talent is definitely there, but the mixing is a little dry.

#5225 2 years ago
Quoted from pduffy:

On one of the multiballs (cant recall which one) my whole playfield goes dark except for a handful fo lights during the multiball and then come back on. Is that by design (i hope)?

Fly by Night multiball.

#5393 2 years ago
Quoted from Wizrdofwor:

My technical issue is consistent rapid wear on right catapult bumper. The rubber wears out in just two weeks. The wear is on the corner impact. I have no unusual wear anywhere else. I have replaced this O Ring FOUR times already.
I use 2” Rubber O Ring. An added frustration is that the playing surface gets very grimy with all this rubber breaking off in such a short time.
Any advice?[quoted image][quoted image]

People have been making comment to up the size and use 2 1/4" I believe, maybe the 2 1/2", but I believe it's the 1/4" step up.

1 week later
#5633 1 year ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Yeah my vodka goggles that I wear at night TOTALLY MISSED THAT USB PORT
DERP lol

Some people shouldn’t drink & USB, it can cause complications.....

1 week later
#5848 1 year ago

Got the call and email today, my Aug-Sept run wait, was just sped up 3-4 months. Glad I was prepared just in case, lol. Should be here next week.

For others that have been told a later date, you might want to prepare, in case yours is ready earlier than expected. Again, mine is 3-4 months earlier than what I was told.

And while I wait, I’ll figure out a place for this, might even become my topper. It was my anniversary gift from my wife yesterday. I love it!

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#5849 1 year ago
Quoted from Rodent:

Got the call that my RUSH Prem is in for pick-up, but that it was shipped/delivered without the expression lighting I had specified.
Unsure what to do, but will chat this thru before I head off to Portland for pick-up

From my understanding, expression lights were only available for the LEs when shipped, any add on sets haven’t been released yet. Unless something’s changed.

#6059 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

I'd really recommend you put a clear washer under the posts, no issues with mine as of yet. That was the only area I could see when installing that was a concern to me.

Trying to remember, where were those clear washers from? Thanks!

#6067 1 year ago

Thank you my friend, and if memory serves me correctly, it was the 3/4” washers.

#6088 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Hey Rush fans...I posted over on the NC thread (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ninjacamp-mods/page/8#post-6925617), but I think it is important to post here as well since most of our product is focused on Rush.
We have completed work on the Rush Inner Loop "Assist". We're renaming this because "Corrector" implies that there is one fix. Our testing has taught us that there are a myriad of solutions, but no single fix. Starting today you can purchase the Rush Inner Loop Assist which includes two snap fit parts designed to correct the loop shot. I've had success with each part by itself, and together, and spaced completely differently than recommended. Long story short, these parts will help you to correct that shot however variations in games, pitch, and maybe even the climate, require a little bit of experimentation on your own.
Everyone who purchased the original product will be able to receive a free second part. The second part clips over the metal rail and has a pitch to it (like a race track) that knocks the ball down and keeps it looping really smooth. In my personal experience, the pictured placement works 100% of the time with no application of the second (original) part. Your experience may vary.
To receive your free second part, please send a private message (on Pinside) with the subject "loop assist" to oliviarium.
Since this is a significant cost for a small business, please be respectful and only request the part if the first solution did not work for you. Also we ask that you make this request before the end of May 2022 such that we can combine shipping with any other outstanding orders you may have.
I also announced a few other things, but I wanted to focus on the most important thing for this thread. Please let me know if you have any questions.
[quoted image]

Great timing, sent you a message, since I already have a pending order with NC.

#6118 1 year ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

LEs are starting to sell around 11K from the market - am I missing something? Seriously considering cancelling my premium and going all in for that price

Depends on what you want, money saved can be spent on the protection and upgrades. Buying the LE you’d get a lot, but still have to put additional funds in it. The art is nice no question, is it what you want though?

Talking NIB LE, or one that’s already been played?

#6157 1 year ago
Quoted from onemilemore:

Flippers have been feeling pretty mushy lately early on in my sessions. Coil stops already, or is there a chance a 2-hour run the other night somehow damaged the coils longer term?

Coil stops and coil sleeves, check those first, would be good to replace with better stuff than what Stern supplies, and relatively cheap parts to replace.

It’s been noted and researched already, that the flippers will start hitting a mushy stage, after about 45-60 minutes of constant play. The coils get too warm, and the flippers will get weaker.

With that said, if the mushiness remains after the machine hasn’t been played for awhile, then yea check your stops and sleeves. That much heat and abuse, could’ve already caused issues with the low grade parts.

12
#6158 1 year ago

So, my Premium arrived yesterday afternoon, waiting on a few other items, then will unbox and set it up. I know it won’t be the only “time” I’ll be in the “machine”, but want to get most things done and addressed, before my first flip.

Haven’t watched any streams, haven’t played one in person yet, just been reading everyone’s stories/issues, and taking notes. I wasn’t supposed to get it until Aug/Sept this year, so a little ahead of schedule, and not fully prepared with all items I wanted to have on hand. I was planning on being patient and waiting, I can still hold to that, at least until the crucial items come in. Then it’s no holds barred, still can’t believe I have a Rush pin in our home.

They were my first concert & first NIB pin, the reason I got into performing music for so many years, and had such a long stint and desire performing.

This is going to be great!

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#6194 1 year ago
Quoted from Photopin:

Wow! That gap is huge. No wonder you're getting balls stuck there.

That’s what she said....?

#6202 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Great news for those wanting to replace some songs on their Rush pins, Pinball Browser now works on the Rush v0.93 code! Will try to replace YYZ and upload a video of the progress.

Thanks for the info, I was actually going to be asking about that very thing in this thread.

In regards to uploading different songs, is there a way of doing this on Rush(or any newer Stern), that could be used only for the Attract mode, but not be played during game play? I’ve got some ideas for Attract mode if possible, but don’t want it to integrate with the main game play, since it wouldn’t sync up with the video and light effects.

#6296 1 year ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

Confirmed LE on the way, so what is the must have list - already have the ninja scoop protector, but what else is essential to get like the reed switch, upkicker protector, speaker upgrades? Not really interested in bling, just stuff that makes the game better. Appreciate the help.
Also, do all the le's need the scoop switch replaced?

Color Mode mod and instrument mod for the inserts, from Pinmonk, just seems to make those inserts better. There’s a lot of items being offered for the machine, look at all of it and decide what suits your needs/desires.

#6353 1 year ago
Quoted from Photopin:

So, apparently from what I've been reading on her lately, if they just changed the theme, the music, the videos and the code Rush would be a pretty good game?

People just like to tinker with their machines, much like Rush did with their music, that’s all. The game is amazing by itself, knowing you can do more, is just an added bonus.

#6358 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

I put in an order for a Rush Premium on the first of March. In the delays thread somebody said that Stern in making more Rush machines in June. What are my odds of getting the game this summer? I would post this in the delays thread but that thread has drifted off subject and thought this one is more appropriate now.

Put down deposit on Jan 5th or 7th(can’t remember), was told it would be Aug/Sept this year, but my Premium arrived last Thursday. It’s a crapshoot, could be people backing out, could be Stern pumping machines out, just depends on what the dealers/distributors get in.

Get on a list and have money ready, about the best you can do. No reason to buy a used machine or 2nd/3rd market prices, if you’re willing to wait and possibly be surprised.

1 week later
#6618 1 year ago

Food for thought, to those having the one off issues:

Have you(or anyone else) added any mods to your machine, that draws any power? IE interactive mods or speaker upgrades?

I’m just spit balling here, haven’t looked into it any further. Machines could have been dialed in for original setup, and maybe a draw from one/many of those mods is tripping the system just slightly? Electronics are finicky, if anything pulses just beyond spec, can cause strange oddball behavior.

#6634 1 year ago
Quoted from OutpostKodelia:

For what it's worth, the ESL only draws from 0-160mA (depending on which lights are on at any point in time, probably an average of around 30-50mA at any given moment) from the 5V on the light system, which is pretty trivial. If that was causing crashing, then the power system would be incredibly frail or overtaxed right out of the box. I would speculate that it's pretty unlikely that any small light-based mod would be causing any crashing issues.

I completely agree for any single interactive mod, like the ESL or anything similar. But what if someone has 4-6 going? Add in, power supplies tend to drop their output levels slightly, after some long use. I haven’t looked, are these p/s in new Sterns adjustable or static?

Just looking at what’s changed vs original, there’s usually a culprit in there somewhere.

#6664 1 year ago

A couple of things I noticed while installing some items on mine last night, to help some of the less experienced folks new to machine ownership.

Much earlier in the thread, there was discussion of the leg bracket mounts inside the cab. Can confirm on the later run of Premium, they did use the better brackets. And they seemed to have installed correctly, no issues with mine. Again, just in case people were still concerned, as I don’t remember seeing a follow up from others.

NinjaCamp rollover switch protectors: For experienced individuals this will seem trivial, this is more so for the noobs. After installing each protector, physically try depressing each switch, to ensure it works and isn’t catching on the protector. I had 4 of them that I had to turn 180 degrees and reset, as the switch was catching. When doing this test, slide the protector as far down as you can, try it, then slide it up as far as you can, try it. If the switch moves freely after both of those tests, center it and try again. I’m thinking it’s just some minor leftover material inside the protector, but if you don’t check it, you mind find yourself with a switch no registering. Each test you should easily here the clicking of the switch.

Lastly, if anyone was curious what the lollipop side rails look like on a Premium, look below. I like it and it doesn’t cover up much, as there’s not really a lot happening with the artwork in those areas.

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#6673 1 year ago

Questions: I’ll be installing my NC scoop protector and VUK protector tonight, I can’t remember if anyone posted vids of install, or if there’s a post that broke it down. Anyone happen to know off the top of their head? I searched this thread and others, but didn’t seem to find anything.

Scoop looks pretty straight forward, wasn’t sure about the VUK.

Just trying to prepare before getting into it tonight. Thanks everyone.

#6677 1 year ago
Quoted from usafstars:

Here are the instructions: http://mjf.me/pinball/Instructions.html
Use a good amount of soap on those sleeves they are tight, soak them in hot water, helps make them more pliable.

That’s it, knew I seen something posted at some point, thanks!

#6678 1 year ago
Quoted from OutpostKodelia:

If you've gone through the instructions linked just above, and you still have any questions, don't hesitate to PM me.

So far, everything has been pretty straight forward, but will surely keep that in mind.

With so much “scoop” talk over the past few months, I couldn’t remember what steps went to which version of the protector. Stern v1, v2, v3, NC, Cliffy, Mantis......lol.

Thank you, looking forward to getting these knocked out tonight.

#6684 1 year ago
Quoted from OutpostKodelia:

If you've gone through the instructions linked just above, and you still have any questions, don't hesitate to PM me.

OK, this is only for a chuckle....that damn string, think it needs to be mentioned at the beginning of the instructions with the tools & misc, lol. Mid stage I had to search high and low through our house, to find string. Couldn’t find any spare wire small enough on hand.

And just a suggestion, if someone is also going to be doing the VUK, much easier to just take out that whole wire form from the VUK to the sling. That way you’re not fighting with that mid flap(wire form) next to the right scoop, when reinstalling the bolt on the scoop protector. So much easier.

#6722 1 year ago

Wow.........

Still catching my breath after playing the first few games. I did all of my pre-maintenance before even turning on the machine, it was difficult to be patient, but felt very satisfying to have all of that done, before taking the first flip.

This game has some nice smooth/rewarding shots and combos, absolutely love the flow. And our boy loves One Little Victory, that’s his jam when starting a game. 5yrs old, and grooving to Rush

I would like to thank some people, for helping to take this title to the next level, adding so much of the “Rush” experience, with their add ons and protectors.

Thank you:
NinjaCamp
PinMonk
Rocket City Pinball
Diddy Pinball
Willipinball
Gameroom Mods
Space Coast Pinball
Apron Envy
Drumstarr
Lermods
WizMods
Pinball Life
Game Exchange
All of you reporting issues or supplying important info in these threads!

This game is awesome and a keeper, I see longevity with this title.

Build date April 27th, 2022
Code v0.93 installed.

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#6729 1 year ago

10 games in, and already a casualty......

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#6733 1 year ago

Can someone verify for me, does the spinner have a backside or mount, or is it just glued to the wire form itself? I’m not seeing any other piece, but wanting to make sure.

#6739 1 year ago
Quoted from cataylox:

There is a backside with it's own different decal. My front decal is -16 and the backside is -17.
[quoted image]

Thank you Cata and Andy, much appreciated, I’ll have to go digging around for it.

Strange, not sure I’ve seen anyone report that issue yet. I was really getting that groove of spinner to upper flipper to inner loop, and then it just blew apart, lol.

Side notes: NinjaCamp inner loop v2 fix, has been registering the shot each time, no issues here.

Now if you get any slow(I mean really slow) rolls by a rollover switch protector, I’ve had the ball hang up on them 4 times. Takes a good nudge, but the ball will get released.

#6753 1 year ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

I'm still not convinced that the switch sticking up in the shooter lane isn't part of the wonky-soft-plunge problem many of us are having.
I decided to order an MRS switch from M&M Creations to replace it. I'll report back once I've received and tested it. (Maybe about to make Matt a lot of money, lol)
I suppose I could've just dropped the switch out of the lane and test the shot without anything there -- but as usual I have several balls in the air, and by the time I get around to that, the switch would be here anyway, lol. Bit of a gamble, I suppose -- but fortune favors the bold (that's cold), so I'll (get out there and rock and) roll the bones.
More to follow...

Curiosity, have you changed out the inside spring(long one) at all? I installed the orange one on mine, and seems to be pretty smooth. Granted I only have 10 games on my machine before my spinner broke, lol. The original spring seemed a little soft, but I have the red(super tight) and the step below it as well(can’t remember the color). Started with the orange, and it felt good on the plunge.

#6758 1 year ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Nope haven't tried that yet. Will try that if MRS doesn't do the trick. The one Pro I got to play elsewhere launched smooth as butter so I wonder what changed there...

Per PBL’s pages under their shooter springs:
Spring tension from lowest to highest:
Blue (266-5001-05)
Green (266-5001-04)
Standard (10-148-1)
Orange (266-5001-07)
Purple (266-5001)
Gray/Silver (266-5001-14)
Red (10-148-2)

For anyone that is interested in trying these out. I’ve got the orange currently in there and feels good. I also picked up the purple to try if needed, and a red if I wanted to go extreme. I’d have to look, but I think green came on my machine originally, which is a step down from the standard spring.

#6780 1 year ago
Quoted from mmuglia:

The Wizard Mods game blades were definitely worth the wait! They look awesome in the premium.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Appreciate the pics of them installed, looks great!

I’ve got a set here on standby, in case the Expression Lights availability fizzles out, or becomes too costly. I like the idea of the lights, and what I’ve seen with them, but haven’t really felt like anything was missing when playing my Premium without them.

You don’t miss what you don’t have....lol.

#6904 1 year ago
Quoted from kmad:

I’ve been waiting on those for almost 3 months. Maybe mine will be coming soon.

Or spend a few bucks and get these. I bet you’d get them quicker, and seem to be more durable.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1326-ninjacamp-mods/06741-rush-premium-le-time-machine-ramp-guards

#6907 1 year ago
Quoted from ramsfan:

Hi All - I just set up my new LE. I played two games on it with whatever code it shipped with. I made three shots up the ramp to the time machine. The first two poopped up really high. In between balls, I look and it appeared the ramp did not go up quite high enough, maybe a quarter to half inch love - obviously not good. I made one other shot that went into the ramp just fine later.
I then upgraded to 0.97 code, but have not played since. I don't want to risk damage if the ramp is actually too low.
Has anyone else had this happen? Any recommendations?
Thanks!
Carl

Go into diagnostic settings, test the ramp up and down. If it still raises too short, look under the playfield to see if the wires for the ramp are catching on anything. While there, make sure the bolts holding the ramp mech are snug, and that the unit itself isn’t loose.

Check those simple mechanical aspects before going any further.

#7019 1 year ago
Quoted from misterschu:

What do you mean by this?

Video from a previous tour, Cartman was pretending to be Geddy. On the machine, it’s Geddy saying the same line as Cartman, when Cartman was pretending to be Geddy Lee.

#7020 1 year ago
Quoted from ccw2112:

I’m having all the same problems…. Will it ‘click’ as described with the power off ? I’m thinking of trying AGAIN with the new switch. Thanks !!

Yes, you’ll hear(or should hear) the clicking sound, when it activates. No power, you’re testing the mechanical aspect of the switch. Anytime you work with a switch, check with this method, especially after placing the part back in. Good way to confirm it works mechanically like it should.

-1
#7039 1 year ago
Quoted from Insanity199:

the rush game clock which has nothing to do with the actual time that can be acquired from internet time servers.

That’s exactly what it does, when machine is connected to Insider Connect over WiFi. It keeps real time when not being played, but will adjust to gameplay once game has started.

And if you’re connected, make sure you have accurately entered in your location, so that it knows which time zone as well.

#7041 1 year ago
Quoted from ChesterWhite:

Confirming that I’m connected to Insider via wired Ethernet. What I am saying is that either as a real world clock in non-game mode, or the in-game clock when playing game; the hand is always 2 minutes slower than actual time. And no matter how I adjust the bias; the correct time will not “stick” once out of adjustment mode. I can never get it any closer. Again; not end of the world and I’ve lived with it for 4 months… it’s just annoying.

Worst case(maybe easiest), loosen the screw that holds the clock hand, reposition, retighten. Make sure to set your bias back to zero before adjusting.

#7060 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Being new to Rush - it arrives in a few hours, what's the hold up with Expression lights? Not yet released at all? I have Led Zep with the lights and they are the best mod for any game in a long time.

Expression Lights, Side Armor, ect..... still pending release date.

#7072 1 year ago
Quoted from zebpin61:

Same here: Ordered PinMonk color mode and instrument insert lenses on Monday and arrived that Wednesday! Excellent turn around & service. Thanks!

You should see the package you get, when ordering the Tibetan Breeze Flipper set, he takes great care of his customers. That’s part of the reason why I was happy to buy the flipper cooling fans from him, and not the “other” offerings out there. He shared the data of his testing, informed the community, and delivered a great product. That is worth backing and supporting to me.

And his personal instructions he includes, makes it so nice, when applying the pieces you acquire from him.

To PinMonk: absolutely love those cutters, smooth and comfortable.

#7074 1 year ago
Quoted from konjurer:

Me too. I'm thinking about purchasing the WizApron apron magnet that covers the plastic apron. The only thing stopping me is that I really don't want more of the same cabinet art design on the apron.
[quoted image]

Not sure about if it’s a decal or not, but wanted to comment for those who are thinking of getting the apron cover and the speaker grill cover, for their model.

I ordered both for my Premium, and after applying both, it seemed to be too much overkill of that particular art. The speaker cover is nice on its own, and honestly, the factory apron look doesn’t bother me as much as I thought it would. I’ll keep it around in case I change my mind.

To your point, if you’re already feeling it’s too much of that cab art for your machine, you should follow that train of thought.

#7089 1 year ago

Probably for the overseas markets.

#7109 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnnyTucson:

Argh! Blue Loctite on order for me - soon after the first screw wandered away I tightened them all only to see the whole left side of my Time Machine ramp fall off last night; you can see the blue nub is almost ready to fail and Operation "Where the Hell did those other Two Screws Go?" is about to commence :/
[quoted image][quoted image]

Oh that stinks, they’re such little bastards to begin with, let alone trying to find them. Yes, Loctite all the way.

Since you’ll have to go through the trouble of pulling the ramp, to get to all of the screws, might as well get the NinjaCamp replacements and replace those blue nubs with better quality stuff.

Reminds me, I should Loctite the remaining screws I didn’t pull, when putting the NC guards in....

#7171 1 year ago

Just installed my E...SL mod(thanks NC!), and played a few games to try it out. Looks very nice, and adds so much more goodness to this game. Side note for those installing, make sure when taping the connector end per their instructions, make sure to wrap further down the cable, and tape around the black webbing as well. Did my taping too short, and it frayed the end of the webbing, and pulled it back some.

Had a few good games, better scoring than my last round, really missing that spinner that’s waiting on the replacement......looking at you Stern....

Starting to get the feel of certain shots and combos, enjoying the learning curve with this one. I’m one of the few probably enjoying the call outs, Rush to a T, or R in this case.

#7202 1 year ago
Quoted from Eagle14:

eh? I think we are getting a bit carried away now?

Well, blew mine apart, on the 10th game played on the machine. So yea, carry away! I’ll get it once I have my replacement from Stern....

#7230 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

those of us listening to rush in 1978 have known this for 40+ years now. welcome to the party
next up: Gryszzz has the realization that the 2nd side of moving pictures is epic

2nd that, the back half of MP is awesome.

I’m surprised I haven’t seen much mention of their other instrumentals. Limbo and Leave That Thing Alone, also Where’s My Thing is epic in my eyes. Still a fan of Lavilla and YYZ, don’t get me wrong. Maybe because their songs from the 90’s era?

10
#7263 1 year ago

Happy Father’s Day numnuts, to all of the Rush dads out there, eh?

We spent some time playing our Rush today, our boy was grooving to One Little Victory and 2112 while playing. We’re having a blast.

#7439 1 year ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

This has been the issue sine 1974.

And I think most Rush fans are ok with that, doesn’t bother me one bit. I love and enjoy their music and humor, and this pin delivers.

#7480 1 year ago
Quoted from Av8:

Is there a Service Menu Test for Node 10? Something definitely shorted. Where is Node 10?

Where is the Node 10 board? I see it in the manual but it doesn't mention the location.

Pull out the bag stapled in your machine, it has the manual and other helpful paperwork. One being a picture breakdown of all node board locations. Mine was packed with that literally right up front, so it was the first thing you see.

#7510 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

You can put a washer under the 2 bolts on the left side of scoop, it will direct the ball to the right flipper 99% of the time. Also, twist the scoop counter clockwise to aim it more towards right flipper when tightening the bolts.

This has been a great suggestion way back in the thread. I will add, I have not added the additional washer that’s mentioned, but did twist the scoop(gently) as much as I could clockwise(looking at underside, playfield up position) while retightening the scoop. This delivers the ball to the right flipper each time for me. No ball drain unless I accidentally press the flipper before the ball gets to it, which would be an error on timing, not of the scoop eject.

#7541 1 year ago

I’m feeling for you guys waiting on replacement node 10 boards, going on a month now, waiting for my spinner target replacement.......yea a spinner.

Not thinking those are as hard pressed to come by vs the node boards, but what do I know. My distributor has been great, and responds very quickly. Stern.....I’ll tell myself they’re just busy, lol.

#7600 1 year ago

If there was ever a doubt, of the machine attracting people of all ages....

I’ve already shared how our 5yr old boy loves this game. Just a little bit ago, my mother-in-law stopped to look at it and said “Next time I’m here, I really want to try that machine!”

So yes, Rush can pull from all age groups, I love it.

#7603 1 year ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Awesome. Thank you! I will order the loop mod. ESL is out of stock unfortunately.
Thanks for your help. I can’t wait to get it and see it person. It does look amazing. My wife and daughters love the steam punk art. Saturday can’t come fast enough.
Which one did you order?
[quoted image]

Do the assist set, to ensure you’ll have what you need. Some people’s machines work well with one of the two pieces, other use both pieces. I have the two piece set on mine, and works flawlessly.

#7613 1 year ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Awesome. Thank you Sterling! Owner said he added some felt pieces and that did the trick. But rather have the clean look of clear plastic.
Did you also order his ramp guards?

Bought the ramp guards(make sure to have blue Loctite on hand), full scoop protector, scoop sleeves, inner loop assist set, rollover protectors(though it can trap slow moving balls), and the Exit Stage Left mod. They have great instructions with their products. If needed, message me and can help walk you through, or at least give you extra tips/tid bits I learned while installing mine.

All great products, along with many other mods that are out there. NC didn’t offer the spinner protector at the time, I would have loved to had that before playing. 10 games in, I blew my spinner apart. Over a month later, still waiting on replacement from Stern.

1 week later
#7850 1 year ago
Quoted from texas_compadre:

Shooting the inner loop on my Rush Premium was registering only about every third time I made the shot, and after researching the problem here and elsewhere, I was buying into the "airball" theory.
But after spending waaaaaayyyyyy too many hours thoroughly troubleshooting the issue both on the game and on my kitchen table with a multimeter, I learned that the switch doesn't register consistently for a combination of reasons (none of which are "airballs").
First, I ordered and installed the magnetic replacement switch from M&M Creations. No luck. In fact, that switch wouldn't register at all during a game. It would, however, register, in switch test mode, when I waved a screwdriver or other metal object over it... just not a pinball. I removed the M&M switch from the machine and broke out the multimeter. Turns out the M&M switch is a normally closed switch that opens if a metal object --other than a pinball-- moves over it. I tried chrome pinballs, carbon steel pinballs, cheap ball bearing pinballs, rusted pinballs, magnetized pinballs, demagnetized pinballs... no pinball will trigger the M&M Creations switch; has to be a screwdriver, pliers, or other metal object. Weird, but then, I'm not that well-versed in conductivity and magnetism - could be that I received a faulty switch from M&M Creations.
Next, I put the multimeter on the stock Stern (500-9935-04) switch that came out of the game. It checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator on the switch was pressed.
So I ordered two replacement 500-9935-04 switches from Pinball Life. Before installing, I put the multimeter on both of them... same issue... both checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator was pressed. After scratching my head for some time, I took a pair of needlenose pliers and bent the actuator blade slightly up off the actuator button on one of the new switches, and bingo! It became a normally open switch that closed when the actuator was pressed... now I was getting somewhere.
Or so I thought.
Once I wired the new 500-9935-04 switch in and secured it to the playfield, the switch was locked closed and wouldn't change states when the actuator was pressed. Turns out these microswitches are so delicate that just removing or installing one can alter the actuator and turn it into an "always closed" switch. The tolerance is practically microscopic, and the way it fits in when screwed into position can also lock it closed if the wire bend is touching the wood under the playfield.
Finally, the actuator arm doesn't protrude high enough out of its slot in the playfield when the switch is installed - I had to bend the wire part of the actuator arm (strategically, in several places) to get the switch to register consistently without ambiguity. Having gone through all of that, I now have the switch registering every time the ball rolls over it in gameplay, no matter how fast.
So... the problem isn't "airballs" flying over the switch and not tripping it; the problem is state ambiguity within the switch itself (the switches simply aren't reliable) and the tight tolerance within which it needs to be adjusted both above and below the playfield to avoid said state ambiguity. Bottom line: bad microswitch design, bad design on Stern's part in choosing this particular microswitch. And for what it's worth, some of the current "fixes" being offered ($$$) to address the issue simply won't work. Until a reliable solution comes along, the fix is going to be trial-and-error removal, bending, and refitting the stock switch until it works reliably and consistently. Quite a pain in the ass.

Since this thread covers so many Radom variations of cause/effect of the inner loop scoring, I think this is a good detailed write up, for those who encounter a similar situation. But not all machines are the same, not all leveled/angled the same, not all set the same(flipper power, ect...). It would be nice to have a one and done fix for all, just haven’t seen it yet.

On my Premium, leveled and set at 6.7 pitch: upper flipper set at 182, and have the NinjaCamp v2 assist set(two piece) installed. Inner loop registers every hit.

Slightly lowering the upper flipper power, has helped make the inner loop, left ramp, and side scoop shots very smooth, not so jaggety. But again, that’s on my machine, may be different for others.

#7851 1 year ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

51 years old and have seen many of van airbrush art, I agree

If I’m not mistaken, their first tour van I believe, had some airbrush art on it. It would make sense to work that style into the art package, if that’s the case.

Who doesn’t enjoy good airbrush art on a van? I may have just aged myself, lol.

#7883 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

More like “stop the clock (and ramp)”. I think Stern is pretty fast now with these. I had to wait a month, but it was only because they didn’t have any in stock.

Stern and fast, can’t be used in same sentence, unless you’re describing some game play.

Still pending my spinner replacement, after notifying them and my distributor on May 31st, including contacting them the past couple of weeks for an update. They still give out the generic response, each one almost being word for word.

Glad you guys are starting to get your board replacements.

#7907 1 year ago

Oh, that made me laugh out loud, yes!!!

#8083 1 year ago
Quoted from Fussa71:It finally arrived!
Only you guys would understand my excitement
[quoted image]

Psshh, beginner.......left it strapped to the pallet, to take in game room

Just kidding ya, congrats on receiving it. Take your time setting it up and dialing it in, it’s a fun pin. Welcome to the club!

#8200 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Thanks for the shoutout! I think the 5th piece really rounds out the look to the kit. I thought it only fair to send one to all prior customers.
Everyone should be receive the theirs in the mail in the next few days. If yours arrives broken or you just never receive it in the next 10 days, please PM me and I’ll send another one.

That’s awesome to hear, great customer service/experience right there!

#8258 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Thanks for the shoutout! I think the 5th piece really rounds out the look to the kit. I thought it only fair to send one to all prior customers.
Everyone should be receive the theirs in the mail in the next few days. If yours arrives broken or you just never receive it in the next 10 days, please PM me and I’ll send another one.

Got my additional piece yesterday or day before, either way it arrived. Thank you so much for going above and beyond, for a great customer experience.

#8286 1 year ago
Quoted from Ghosters:

I turned the game off while waiting for my replacement board, since the time machine is such a large part of the game. I guess one option would be seeing if you could get the ramp to stay in the up position and then it might still be playable. I'll let someone else chime in if this a possibility, wise and how it might be accomplished. My first board took about 2 weeks to arrive and it's been two weeks since I received a warranty claim for the second one. Sure wish I could get a tracking number or know if the part has even shipped yet.

Count your blessings, I’m coming up on two months for my spinner target replacement......

#8389 1 year ago

So, received my replacement spinner from Stern two months later, anyone notice anything missing?

8060FC31-21F4-4BA2-8AAF-F3131D51908A (resized).jpeg8060FC31-21F4-4BA2-8AAF-F3131D51908A (resized).jpegF5877E8A-5971-4FD8-B631-579B2F931763 (resized).jpegF5877E8A-5971-4FD8-B631-579B2F931763 (resized).jpeg
#8395 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

you didnt ask for the sticker
as if you should have too

Well, the distributor put it as bluntly as he could, lol.

Just boggles my mind, of why this replacement seems to be so difficult. People with Node board issues, are getting faster turnaround, which I am greatly happy for them. This is just a simple spinner(and decals) replacement.

419FBC3B-046A-4ACE-97C4-145947FBF1F7 (resized).jpeg419FBC3B-046A-4ACE-97C4-145947FBF1F7 (resized).jpeg

#8480 1 year ago
Quoted from OutpostKodelia:

Outpost Kodelia and NinjaCamp have just released the preview for our next big product, check it out!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ninjacamp-mods/page/12#post-7054754

Looks pretty dang good! Wish these would work without having the EL kit, as we patiently wait for Stern to release.

Nice job on those!

#8486 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Why is the dog and fire hydrant 3D printed mod not identical to the Signals album cover?
Sorry, but this is one of the worst mods I’ve ever seen in pinball. It really cheapens the look of the game with it installed. It’s like someone took free 3D print files, a dog and a fire hydrant and that was it. No attention to detail or scale or making your own model or commissioning it to someone to make it. If it doesn’t match the album cover, what is the point?
[quoted image]

If you had one, installed one, and/or researched about it, you would understand. The maker shared their trials through the process, not everything is going to be perfect in life.

If you are familiar with Rush history, especially their video incorporations during live concerts, they take iconic items from their various album covers, and present them in different ways.

Either you get it, or you don’t, you can always choose to move on. No need to be “that” pinsider.

#8487 1 year ago
Quoted from Velux:

I’ve been hearing for months about people recommending blue Loctite on some things, but there are a couple of different numbers within the blue range (i.e. 243, 220, etc) - what number do you recommend?

I picked up the blue 242, been working fine for me.

#8489 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I can have and share my opinion. That's every "Pinsider". Either do the mod right or not at all, that's my opinion. Make it exact like the album cover, otherwise what is the point of a random dog and fire hydrant on the playfield that doesn't even match anything else? Sticks out like a sore thumb is not a mod mantra...that mantra is make it look like it was designed that way from the manufacturer.

So if you don’t like it, why not move on then? What was the purpose of the post, if you’re not interested in the item? To tear down someone else’s work? That’s not having an opinion, that’s being an asshole. That’s what I was referring to with “that” comment.

An opinion would be commenting you don’t like it, and it’s not for you, or not commenting at all, and stopping there.

If you can make better, then do it. For those that enjoy(myself included), we’re pretty happy with it.

Anyway, moving on....just enjoy your machine, and have a better day tomorrow

#8607 1 year ago

Gryszz, I was actually thinking of you today. Within this thread, you’ve shared your musical journey, discovering Rush material you never really gave a chance to previously.

With that being said, I’d like you to take a listen to their live album A Show of Hands. A lot of great songs you’re missing out on, and a great compilation of live recordings.

As much as I love Rush, this is the one live album I find myself playing over and over. The sound is as clean as Exit...Stage Left, with a more full balanced sound. The engineering of this was great.

Yes, I happened to be listening to it today.

#8644 1 year ago
Quoted from Fussa71:

Anyone have an issue downloading the new code using insider?
It seems to be downloading, but when I go check on it, it’s like it never started

It’s the time of day, lots of people probably doing the same, or people are hogging up your service provider’s server with streaming and what not.

I used the same method earlier today around 11am EST, took about 50 minutes to download and complete the install. Mind you, wife and I were both working from home, so that slowed it down some over WiFi.

#8707 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:Finally got my premium! Home and set up and loving it! Couldn't be happier.
Question though.... since this is my first even NIB game, was wondering...….. Has Stern stopped doing the extra plastics and key fobs in the goodie bag? Or did they forget mine?
In my game in the stapled bag, there is just a manual and a QR code decal. Nothing else.
Just curious.

All Rush games came with pretty much zilch in the bag, can’t even call it a goodie bag anymore. Higher prices for less, typical market, lol.

#8744 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Hopefully getting a Premium this Friday. Been waiting a long time. Quick question: how does one get into the Hemispheres mode?
Thx.

Make sure machine has one of the latest codes(.96,.97,.98), and you can select it before starting a game. Hold both flippers, then choices come up that you can toogle through. It’s a really fun mode, best of luck on it.

#8878 1 year ago

Bit the bullet and bought a LZ expression lights kit, tired of waiting on Stern for the release. I’ve got some other artwork here, that I should be able to use, to re-theme them.

Bring on the NC speaker kits

#8902 1 year ago
Quoted from Shaqatak:

Hi everyone, I have two small issues I need help with. Both totally different so I will make two posts. My Rush premium is not autoplunging the ball anymore after a failed short plunge on the skill shot. I think this happened after the 0.98 update. I thought it may be a setting but could not find it. Any help would be appreciated.

I believe that was disabled with latest code release, go back and read through the Read Me file for the update. I’m not 100% positive without looking, but I know it’s mentioned a few pages back.

#8953 1 year ago

It’s going to be a good weekend, replacement decals for my spinner target arrived, pinwoofer kit arrived earlier this week, and the LZ expression lights kit came today.

Time to get busy....

#8967 1 year ago

Ask, and you shall receive....

Yes, it’s an LZ expression lights kit. After seeing it in action, does it bother me it’s an LZ kit? Nope!!! Not one bit. And if Stern ever releases the Rush version, it’s literally a simple swap of the artwork plastic, 3 screws per side without having to remove the lights themselves.

They can be installed without removing the playfield, just be careful and take your time.

56E49E11-F89A-4688-BA16-A9788D9AE04E (resized).jpeg56E49E11-F89A-4688-BA16-A9788D9AE04E (resized).jpegBD32A836-F525-4CC3-9B92-868D21773C2F (resized).jpegBD32A836-F525-4CC3-9B92-868D21773C2F (resized).jpegEFA77548-42B8-427B-8BFD-1B3009D78211 (resized).jpegEFA77548-42B8-427B-8BFD-1B3009D78211 (resized).jpeg

#8968 1 year ago
Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:

Not the greatest pic, but I'm struggling to see any issues. What do you guys think?
[quoted image]

Here’s a pic of mine, since I had the glass off earlier. No issues with mine, if you’d like to compare.

F1D91DF2-A4DB-4B9E-8FD0-D3BD79746D4C (resized).jpegF1D91DF2-A4DB-4B9E-8FD0-D3BD79746D4C (resized).jpeg
#8974 1 year ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

Yeah, doesn't look bad at all. There are a lot of similar colors in both games. I think I'm sold.

Later today, I’ll snap pics of the machine turned off, to show what they look like, forget to do that yesterday, lol.

And you’re welcome distributors who are sitting on a pile of LZ kits. I take PP, Venmo, and cash for my finders fee for your upcoming sales

#8975 1 year ago

Pics of the LZ kit with machine turned off.

5372A9E1-3498-44CC-8A7A-198A79392649 (resized).jpeg5372A9E1-3498-44CC-8A7A-198A79392649 (resized).jpegC0AE1911-7D42-4568-BCDE-1E0BDC910EC2 (resized).jpegC0AE1911-7D42-4568-BCDE-1E0BDC910EC2 (resized).jpegF8012B6D-A922-48F0-BFF0-10F6F4CCD739 (resized).jpegF8012B6D-A922-48F0-BFF0-10F6F4CCD739 (resized).jpeg
#8979 1 year ago
Quoted from MooButt:

Gonna need pics of the LZ lights. Are you going to use Rush art blades with the LZ lights since they come in pieces? I feel like this is the only way I'm gonna get expression lights for my Premium because Stern sucks so bad.

I’m just leaving it as I have pictured above, not adding any art blades. If/when the actual Rush version gets released, I’ll cross that bridge at that time. There’s so much on the playfield that blocks sight to those areas, I don’t get that feeling like something is missing.

When the game is on, there’s so much activity with those lights, you won’t notice/care about the art, you’ll be focused more on the lights.

Plain and simple, I’m happy with it for now, and it fills the void. You can either have the lights now, or continue to wait. After seeing the lights in action and how they’re programmed, I’m glad I didn’t wait. Now I get what LE owners were experiencing with these.

I’m not pushing for anyone to do this, just sharing my thoughts and how it looks with the LZ kit installed, for those who were considering.

#8982 1 year ago

Question for Rush owners with Pinwoofer kit installed, note I am not using any external sub, just backbox and cabinet speakers.

At certain frequencies/tones, I’m getting some slight crackling through the speakers. It’s not all of the time, but does seem to be consistent. My volume level isn’t set very high.

Trying to figure out if the recommended settings from Pinwoofer are overdriving the speakers, or if the the recordings Stern used, already had it present. Can’t say I noticed it previous to swapping the speakers out. Connections are all tight and correct, double checked my work already.

Maybe I just need to find that right balance with the amp settings.

Machine settings:
-backbox and cabinet speakers set to 8ohms
-took off audio filter
-music set at -5
-speech at -15
-amp set to Pinwoofer recommendations
-master volume at 18

#8987 1 year ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Makes you wonder why Stern can’t just slap some rush decals on the LZ expression lights. If they can produce the lights for LZ it shouldn’t be a problem for Rush as far as securing the parts. If I’m not mistaken these LZ light kits were out of stock in the spring.

No lie, it’s literally the same system, only involves swapping out the plastic cover that has art. 3 screws on each side, and art could be swapped. It’d be nice if Stern would just offer the art pieces

Appreciate the replies regarding audio, glad to know it’s noticed with other machines.

#8996 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

I'm seriously considering this. So if I understand what you're saying, after putting the lights and node board in, you have a plastic cover with that zoso art that goes over the lights with 3 screws and the art blades are totally separate so you can "save" them and possibly sell the whole thing once the Rush ones are available???

Exactly, if buying the Rush version later on, you can undo 3 screws per art panel over the lights, swap them and be done. As you mentioned, LZ art blades are not used, so they’re sitting there new untouched.

#9067 1 year ago
Quoted from Bill2112Rush:

Thanks for the lane wobble responses.
It’s surprising to me that there’s been no fix offered by Stern (with both the shooter lane and the inner loop).
Is it not affecting enough machines for them to address or is this something possibly on their “to do” list?

They probably look at it, as why address it, when other people out there, are already providing the solution? Which I am ever grateful for, many who post in this very thread.

#9105 1 year ago
Quoted from H3XAG0N:

On my machine I recently noticed some flickering in the lights in the lower half of the game. Upon closer inspection I noticed that all of the white GI bulbs are dimmer than the others and will flicker sometimes during a game. I checked under the playfield real quick and didn't seem to see any chafing where the wires go under the flipper mechs. Any other ideas of what to check? All white GI bulbs in the lower portion of the playfield appear to be affected.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Three questions to start:
-Have you ran the lamp test yet? If so, still seeing similar issue, or do they operate as they should during the test?

-Add any lighted mods that are pulling off the GI path?

-Any recent work under the playfield, where any wires might have been pinched or snagged?

#9110 1 year ago
Quoted from H3XAG0N:

During lamp test they are lighting up but are flickering somewhat. Again, only the lower playfield white GIs.
No powered mods.
No recent work under playfield.

I’m not in front of my machine right now, so spitballing:

-Check connector at the board(s), make sure it’s snug.
-follow the wiring for the GI, between back box and playfield lights, make sure there isn’t a zip tie that’s too tight, or any other visual issues.
-Reseat the bulbs and/or try different LEDs to see if issues remain.

Since it’s affecting all of your white GI, it has to be something where signal all comes together, a common place. Hence, checking connector or pins in the connector first.

I’ll let others chime in, as I don’t have the schematics or the playfield in front of me.

Start with the easy stuff first, hopefully it’s not some small piece of debris in one of the sockets. I know another owner ran into something similar, and it took him awhile to find it. Good luck my friend!

#9140 1 year ago

Just wanted to give a shoutout to Dan from Pinwoofer, he was correct with the GLI(Ground Loop Isolator), it solved the small audio issue I was having. Not to mention his great customer service, the guy goes above and beyond with communicating to his customers.

For anyone thinking of adding this setup to their machine(Rush or other), I’d recommend just ordering the GLI along with the speaker kit. You may/may not need it, but it would be better to have it on hand vs having to wait additional time for it to arrive. For a few bucks more, it’s worth having it. Also, if you move or sell the machine, your new location might need it. Just my two cents.

Anyway, great customer service, great product, and great addition to the pinball community. Thanks Dan!

#9151 1 year ago

So, my wife(not a Rush fan), just had a great weekend with this game. After a couple small maintenance adjustments I did Saturday, she had a great game yesterday(Grand Champion high score) and today(Red Barchetta multiball champion).

Needless to say, she’s been mentioning it all weekend about “Did you happen to see the high score?” She’s even getting into back talking Alex & Geddy, with their call outs, lol. It’s really entertaining seeing a non Rush fan really enjoy the machine. I think she’s also taking pride in helping to get the LZ light strips installed, she’s now becoming one with the machine

#9171 1 year ago
Quoted from Gabpower:

Recently, I noticed that after I drain a ball a new one gets ejected in the shooter lane without reason and without going to the next ball in the counter. It happens once every few games.
I do not have Ball Save or Shoot Again lighted, owl eyes are not flashing and noting on the screen changes. When the ball gets ejected it doesn't auto-launch and the skill shot lights are not lighted. As if I did not lose my ball... still, it gives it to me just like that.
I ain't complaining but that's an odd behavior that should not occur and I wonder if I'm the only one having this or if the new .98 code is responsible.

This past weekend, we encountered that a few times, maybe 5 times within 15-20 games. We’re running 0.98 code as well, never witnessed it happening with previous codes. I just can’t remember if it was at the end of a particular mode/multiball, or if it was just during normal play.

You’re not alone, lol.

#9181 1 year ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

Got the Led Zepplin Expression-Lights Kit installed today, and...WOW! They're like Pinstadiums on steroids.
They're better than JJPs hot rails because they actually light up the pf quite a bit, rather than mostly going up into your eyes like on GNR and TS4.
I'm surprised at how well they fit in on Rush. The colors line up and match almost perfectly to the pf, and the LZ symbols look like the clockface symbols from Rush's Clockwork Angel's album cover. Some of which are depicted on the pf too.
Honestly, if this is all I ever got, I'd be okay with it. If you're thinking about getting them to tide you over until the official Rush ones...I say do it!
[quoted image]

As us Premium owners, are now finding out what the LE guys have already been enjoying, the light show is needed for this game. I couldn’t imagine our game without the expression lights now.

Enjoy the show my friend

#9185 1 year ago
Quoted from upsfeedr:

where did you get the lights from im sure they wouldbe fine on a Pro Model as well

As long as your cabinet has the L shaped fill blocks(which I believe Pros do), yes they’ll work.

Get them at any place selling the LZ light kit, before Rush owners start buying them up

#9191 1 year ago

Thank you for the shout-out Crash, there were a couple people before me, that were looking into this. Based off their findings, it was enough for me to pull the trigger and get the LZ kit. So many thanks go out to those troopers as well

So I have been asked by quite a few people through PM, about installing the light kits on my machine. I'll try to explain the process the best I can, and I will also provide pictures, to help show what I am mentioning. This is the method I used, to install the LZ Expression Lights Kit on my Premium Rush.

Edit: I take no responsibility for any damages or quirks that may happen to your machine. This is an "At Your Own Risk" method for installing these light kits, sharing what I did for my machine. I cannot promise this is a "one method will work for all", but it did work for my machine.

Remember to take your time, take a moment to analyze each step/next step, as you go through the process, and you'll be fine.

-All directions below, are after the machine has been unplugged, glass has been pulled off, and the balls have been taken out. With the impression that you understand how to be careful around your machine, the wiring, mechs, ect....

-You will need to only lift the playfield up, you don’t have to take the entire playfield out, as they mention in the directions with the light kit. If you are reading this later, and ONLY IF you have the official Rush Expression Light kit, then you will have to lift out/remove the playfield, if you are going to be installing the side art that will come with the set. Moving on...

-Undo any screws for the L shaped filler block, on either side of the cabinet. With the playfield pulled up and in it's resting position on the front rails, you can reach the back half of the screws, holding the filler blocks in. Once you've removed as many as you can, raise the playfield(stand it up) all the way, then you can reach the remaining screws up front for both sides. See pics below, to show how you can access said screws. Each filler block has 14 screws, keep track of your screws

-You will want a 2nd person on hand, as one of you has to hold the playfield straight up and pushed as far back towards the back box as possible, while the 2nd person gets ready to gently slide the light fixtures into the channels.

-The person holding the playfield upright, you’ll want the playfield pushed all the way to one side(R or L of cabinet), opposite of the side you’re installing the lights. This gives just enough room to get one side of the light strips in. Then repeat for the opposite side.

-There are zip ties on the fixtures, that can cause it to hang up, when sliding in the channel, be mindful of that.

-These light kits do have some ability for slight flexing, which you will need to do, when sliding them into place. Again, be careful, take your time, and stop if something doesn't seem right.

2nd Edit: I mentioned earlier in this thread, that it would only take 3 screws to swap the LZ plastic art off per light bracket, to put the official Rush art on them(when available). This is true if the kit is not installed. If kit is installed(the reason you are reading these directions now), then it would involve the removing a total of 17 screws per light bracket. 3 screws(per side) holding the art to the light bracket, and the 14 screws(per side) holding the bracket in place. You shouldn't have to remove the light brackets at this point, should be able to just slide the LZ art out, and slide the Rush art in. Keep in mind the light brackets would be loose, but no reason to remove them. You may want to do one side at a time, so that you're not fighting both loose light brackets at the same time. Now this is in theory, as I have not attempted this part myself. Just basing this off of what I encountered while installing the kit, and what it looks like it would take to swap the art around.

Hopefully this helps a better picture, for those looking to add the light kit to their machine. I may come back and edit this post, if I decide to reword something, to get the message across better. If you have questions, reach out, but I wanted to try and help with this info upfront, to eliminate a lot of those questions.

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#9194 1 year ago
Quoted from VisitorQ:

I think you guys should start installing the Led Zeppelin topper on Rush, I mean why wait?

Blah, I don’t think I’m going for the topper route, definitely not the LZ topper, lol.

#9199 1 year ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Maybe this is a task that the Wizard Mods guys could take on...

I had thought about using their current blade art, and trimming around the LED holes, but what’s currently available wouldn’t fit the art plastic. The art is too short at one end, wouldn’t fully cover. Not to mention, I was having a hard time convincing myself to cover other(LZ) art.

And, I knew were my talent stopped with that. Great with many things, but that’s something I wasn’t going to take on, lol.

#9202 1 year ago
Quoted from Big_Whoopin:

Curious, what does it look like if you simply took the LZ artwork off the ELs? Is it a plain black strip or does it look like a bare mess of electronics? Yeah, I could go peek on my LE but I'm guessing one of you already took a look.

Horrible, it’s just raw aluminum with wires and LEDs exposed. It would not look good at all. It’d have lots of open space, that wouldn’t look balanced. Also, you wouldn’t have the frosted lenses covering the LEDs, like you do with the artwork piece over it.

#9210 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

If you remove the three screws, that hold the plexiglass art blade to the lights, you have an ugly steel channel that has circuit boards and wires zip tied inside. You also cannot mount them as is, because the 14 screw holes are into the plexiglass not the metal. They do fit very snugly though, but you'd also run the risk of a ball colliding and breaking them although they're pretty high up on the cabinet so that's kinda unlikely.

Haha, yea I forgot to mention the most important part, it couldn’t be mounted without the plexi art. So there’s that as well, lol.

#9277 1 year ago

So trying out something new this weekend, will report back after a few days. Think I might shift it over to the left, and remove the instruction card, but we’ll see.

Tip for those who may get this, you have to rethink where you grab the playfield to lift, and also how it leans against the back box when upright. Trial and error for this, but love having the extra visual.

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#9281 1 year ago
Quoted from Kez11:

What the heck??? By whom, and where? Or is this homegrown?

Pinsight HDD from Cheap Drainz, saw it earlier this week, liked the idea, and it arrived today

Pretty straight forward install, make sure/double sure the directions and visual aids. The apron steps were probably the hardest part, but even then wasn’t too terrible. It’s the handling and being careful of the screen and ribbon cable.

Great communication, fast shipping, a great looking product. Owner is Pinsider Mando.

#9286 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

Oh one helpful thing for people like me who don't have the pilot holes. How far away from the Vertical ground wire is the node board, and how much space is left between them. I estimated. But I can see in your pictures that my boards are closer together and a little farther back than yours.

I’m sure I’ll be in and out of my machine this weekend, I’ll try to remember to grab measurements.

#9311 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

Oh one helpful thing for people like me who don't have the pilot holes. How far away from the Vertical ground wire is the node board, and how much space is left between them. I estimated. But I can see in your pictures that my boards are closer together and a little farther back than yours.

Pics and measurements, to help others that don't have the pilot holes existing, to mount the expression lights boards. These will at least help get you started for placement.

Side note: For anyone who may be thinking about getting the Pinsight HDD, I have found a simple car washing sponge, does awesome to protect the screen from touching the backbox, when the playfield is tilted upright. A simple $2.00 fix. Loving this little screen so far, even being small, it truly helps having that info in an easier to see location.
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#9313 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

Thanks for all those who needed the measurements. I did put mine closer to the ground wire and about an inch and a half apart. A little closer together. Oh well. The sponge idea is a good one. Where do the hdmi and power wires end up for the screen? Along the playfield?

They wrap under the apron(front lip), from there, it just routes along existing wire runs under the playfield, to the backbox. If you look in the Pinsight HDD thread, I posted pics a little bit ago, of how I ran them.

#9328 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Anyone know where you can find the list of setting changes that come with installing one of the presets like “Home”?

One of the code updates Read Me files, broke down the changes for Home settings. I’m thinking it was 0.94 or 0.96 code release. Heading out the door, or I’d look it up.

#9351 1 year ago

Too much talk about Bond going on, needed to get Rush back to the top.

Heard a couple of quotes yesterday, that I haven’t heard before, that got me chuckling.

“Hey, I think Huck Fin has the high score” and “Why read the book, when you can play pinball.” Both during Tom Sawyer mode. I’m sure it’s not new to others, but first time I heard them. The game keeps making this Rush fan smile, I love the quirky call outs.

#9353 1 year ago
Quoted from JustJared:

For those that have messed with your ramp, could someone tell me how I might solve this issue? The ramp is sitting below the playfield too much and I've had balls stuck with the ramp in the up and down positions. My pitch is great enough, it my machine. The ramp sits about 1/4" too low. I hope to get to looking at it tomorrow and am hoping for some preliminary guidance.
[quoted image]

Seeing that you have the NinjaCamp ramp guards installed, my first thought is make sure the ramp is mounted and secured correctly, underneath the playfield. I assume you removed the ramp, in order to put the ramp guards on. Three nuts, the front two have black vibration dampeners underneath them, so do not over tighten those. You can squish them some, but don’t flatten them.

Just undo the three, then reapply, making sure to tighten them down evenly. Just needs to be snug, not super tight.

See if that helps first, then go from there.

#9363 1 year ago
Quoted from JustJared:

Funny you mentioned the ramp guards. Mine are stock. July 1 build. I will have time tomorrow and look at the dampeners. I am wondering if it wasn't tightened down enough to lift the assembly up where it should be. Thank you for the advice, I'll check this out and get back to you all.
Jared

I debated if that was the case with the ramp guards, couldn’t remember if Stern changed color/material. Most were released with the blue nubs, that wouldn’t last very long.

Yes, report back after adjustment.

#9365 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Does anybody know if all the quotes have been put out there? Or did they record a few hundred and release new quotes in new code updates?

I believe they keep adding more with each update, but don’t take that as gospel. They may have already been there, and key features with new codes, may finally be letting them out.

I know with each update, I tend to hear some different stuff. But is that because of code release, or that I’m getting further along in the game, and finally hearing them? Don’t know.

#9369 1 year ago
Quoted from Gabpower:

BTW On live recordings they start the song in reggae-style.

It was the Clockwork Angels tour, it’s how they started the song for the encore.

The polka version intro of La Villa from the Time Machine tour, still one of my favorites.

#9397 1 year ago
Quoted from John_I:

I know the colors match and from a distance it looks great, but you must not be familiar with Led Zeppelin? The indelibly LZ symbols make this a complete mismatch that I would not be able to live with. Its like having baseball art on a game themed for football. I would have to put a set of Rush side blades over the LZ art and then cut out the windows for the LEDs somehow. That seems like a daunting task to properly complete, so I am holding out for the actual Rush expession lights.

Something I had thought about doing, regarding the use of art blades over the LZ artwork on the light fixtures, but current art blades were not wide enough at one end. Unless you wanted to cut and splice the artwork, which after looking at it, didn’t seem to be a good alternative. Then there’s the trimming around all of the LED windows......

I honestly thought it would bother me, not only knowing, but seeing it there on the light fixtures. But it truly doesn’t, and I’m pretty ocd about things like that. Yes I know it’s LZ art, and not rush, but it gets hidden pretty quick when the lights are on.

Now, as far as adding the LZ art blades as well, can’t say it’s something I’d do, that’s just a little much for me. Although, LZ was a big influence to Rush, so maybe it pays tribute?

I will say this, once you have the fixtures installed, and start a game, it will completely change your view about it. Like you, I’m waiting for the official release, but I also might be retired before they come out. Or not wanting to pay crazy scalping prices, when I can enjoy the feature/function now.

#9407 1 year ago

OK, heard another new quote today. Heard Alex say during Limelight mode “Imagine the ball, is a long-awaited friend......that owes you money”.

I’ve heard Geddy say something similar, but his quote doesn’t involve “....that owes you money”.

Another that made me crack up, love this game.

10
#9412 1 year ago

So, a had a great time, and not so great time, playing Rush with my boy today.

Today is the day, our 5yr old, beat me in a game of pinball. I am extremely happy, and a little sad it happened....happy as all get out, that our boy has been really picking up pinball. Sad that I didn’t have a very good game, but minor in comparison, seeing how happy our boy was telling the family “I beat dad!”

Not a big scoring game, but one of his best on Rush so far. He scored 31+ million, whereas I had 28million and change. He ended up getting Red Barchetta and Subdivisions multiball back to back. He’s been watching dad, and taking notes

Happy, but not happy, but happy, lol.

#9414 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

My neighbor brought me 3 packages of pinball parts from 3 different vendors he received last night,They only missed me by 6 buildings.

Good to know you can now start digging into that work

#9426 1 year ago
Quoted from Wicked-Flip:

The settings in these menus are kind of new to everyone. Probably 90% of what's in there most of us have no clue what it does, how it works, or how to do service tests ect. It used to be simple and easy. More features = more confusing
I had a switch 58 alert the other day and just stared at the test menu like an idiot. I have no clue how to test that switch. Haha. Whatever it was it went away by itself.

Had the same tech alert the other day, cleaned both optos with rubbing alcohol and a qtip. It’s the set of optos on the ramp, directly behind the time machine. It’s was probably just a little dust/debris, but no issues reporting now.

In switch test > all switches, just trigger it running your finger through the switch area, it’ll show on the screen if it’s working or not.

#9429 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

I think my Rush game is broken.... I've played like 10 games in a row and haven't been able to get more than 30M. Clearly that's the game's fault, not mine...

I’ve ran into that issue, sometimes a “human power cycle” will fix it

#9460 1 year ago
Quoted from blowback1976:

Unfortunately, there's not too much, as the diverter is mounted into the plastic ramp, with no wiggle room. Stern finally got back to me, and will be sending a few new parts to try out.

Here’s a question, is it supposed to allow left ramp > to bypass the divertor > to right in lane?

Because it looks like the plastic edge of the ramp, has an ever so slight curve at the edge. And that’s on each pic posted of this area so far. Geometry wise, it starts the curve that is continued by the curve of the divertor, if you look at the top down view posted above. It’s not a straight back piece on that habit trail. If it was straight, then I could see it being designed to have that flow, but with that slight lip of the plastic, I’m not sure if it was designed to go left ramp to right in lane.

Albeit, I haven’t read through all of the rules and gameplay, so if it’s supposed to bypass and continue to the right in lane, forget what I just mentioned

I’ll have to test mine later this week and see, I don’t recall any of my left ramp shots, going to the right in lane.

#9464 1 year ago
Quoted from blowback1976:

It all depends where you have your diverter set to. It can be left ramp to left in lane, left ramp to right in lane, or right ramp to left in lane or right ramp to right in lane.
A few streams on line show the ball passing with no issue when set to right in lane returns. Also sure there’s a few modes that require that shot to complete.

It will be interesting to know what parts Stern’s sending you, unless you already know, lol.

Huh, I was under the impression, only the right ramp had either in lane option. Again, I don’t remember my left ramp ever going to right in lane, or seeming like it had any issue feeding it to the left in lane. Nothing stood out as far as any delay or bump, then feeding to left in lane. But then again, now that this has come up in topic, I’ll be paying more attention to it. Weird.

Keep us posted with what Stern says and sends you please.

#9466 1 year ago
Quoted from blowback1976:

It all depends where you have your diverter set to. It can be left ramp to left in lane, left ramp to right in lane, or right ramp to left in lane or right ramp to right in lane.
A few streams on line show the ball passing with no issue when set to right in lane returns. Also sure there’s a few modes that require that shot to complete.

So I read through the rules sheet, you would be correct, under the Weapon / Action Button section, it does state either ramp shot can be controlled to go to either in lane.

I stand corrected, and will have to pay attention to mine now.

#9469 1 year ago

Somebody got a package from NinjaCamp today, but not saying who........

#9475 1 year ago
Quoted from Kez11:

Was hoping I would see mine this week (thought I was one of the first few to complete my order), but haven't seen a shipping notice yet, so maybe I'll make tomorrow's shipment. <fingerscrossed>
Ninjas have a lot going on, so no complaining here, just anxious, as usual.

That they do, and I know all of us are wishing them well, through these times.

It’s difficult not to get excited, when a package marked with NinjaCamp shows up. I agree, was thinking it would have been a little longer, and would have completely understood that.

NC folks, if you’re reading these threads, we’re still thinking about all of you.

#9499 1 year ago
Quoted from Diamond:

Can someone help me out with how to calibrate the drum clock on my LE? Couldn’t find anything in the service menu. Thanx.

Check post #9467, on this same page.

#9506 1 year ago
Quoted from Diamond:

Just noticed these blue bumpers are damaged. I’ve had the machine around 8 months 422 plays now so out of warranty with stern. Where can I find a pair of these and what are they called. Thanx.
[quoted image]

Get the set from NinjaCamp, you’ll get them quicker. Make sure to have blue Loctite for the screws, after replacing the nubs.

They’re called ramp guards btw, since you asked.

#9523 1 year ago
Quoted from Apollo18:

Need some advice.
Couldn’t find anything in the key posts.
I have adjusted and re-adjusted the side scoop,
But can’t seem to get it back to the way it came from factory: side scoop used to eject directly to the top/upper flipper.
Now, side scoop keeps ejecting low, below the flipper. I have adjusted the Power settings, doesn’t change trajectory.
I have turned it as much as possible while tightening the screws.
Am I missing something ?
*will try again tomorrow.
Perhaps a fresh look will get me better results lol

What are you using for a scoop protector, Stern’s version or NinjaCamp’s? Is something catching the ball as it pops out of the hole?

#9530 1 year ago
Quoted from kmad:

I need some help. My right flipper has started sticking after about 2000 plays. Went to order new coil stops and sleeves before i start taking it apart and saw conflicting part numbers/sizes on the coils sleeves. Also any recommendations on best quality. I was looking at Pinball life and Marco Everything Pinball.

Page 44 of the manual, breakdown of flipper parts. Got my backups from Pinball Life.

#9532 1 year ago
Quoted from Apollo18:

Ninja camp. Yup. It was. Thank you.
Much appreciated.

I love easy fixes

#9536 1 year ago
Quoted from Drussksu:

My Rush Pro didn’t have a goody bag. Did stern stop giving extra plastics?

Yes, no extra nuggets. Manual, quick reference chart, flyer, QR Code. That’s it.

#9552 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

What can this strange device be that I've found, when I touch it, it gives forth NO sound...
While examining the bottom of Rush, I found these. The little screw looks like the ones holding the ramp bumpers on, but all four are already there. The other thing "seems" like an LED on one side, but has 6 solder pads on the other side???? (Next to a "Magic Dime " for size comparison.) Any ideas what/ where these are???? Thank you!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I saw that you discovered where the screw goes. For future reference, I’ve seen these on the sides of the ramp, and similar used on the top plastic for Roll the Bones, above the scoops.

The other part, no idea at the moment.

#9606 1 year ago
Quoted from bhelms:

Hi folks - getting a bit off recent topics here. How long have you waited for a warranty replacement Node 8 (or 9) board from Stern? They told me "e-mail back if you haven't received it in 3 weeks"; I've heard it can take months! I did an end-around and bought a replacement board from Nitro Pinball, had it in 48-hours! I paid twice the Stern list price ($99) but for me it was worth it to get back in business that fast. Most online retailers are simply out of stock for this item, typically at ~$130. Given that these node boards are a known weak link, I believe having a spare is essential to "operations" so I would probably have bought one at some point. And of course there's always that Murphy's Law corollary to help guide us: "If you have a spare on the shelf you'll never need it...!"
BTW - Stern's support thus far has been prompt, detailed, and valuable. The tech. support rep. worked me through a couple of issues successfully. There might be a comment to be made about the reliability of that node board, QC, etc. Underdesigned, perhaps? Or cheap components used? But the supply chain issue I might be experiencing is probably completlely out of their hands. I realize they can't stop production to send me a board.

Haven’t seen much mentioned other than Node 10 boards, seems to be 1-3 month turnaround. I was just shy 2 months, for the spinner target and decals replacement I received.

#9607 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

Completed all the songs, played all multiballs, finished book 1, then finished book 2…. I’m on year 2110, ball 3……… I go to shoot the time machine and it rattles the entrance comes back sling sling outlane……………. I just stand there with my head in shame
[quoted image]

No shame in that, hold your head high, you know it’s achievable now

#9620 1 year ago
Quoted from FlipperFreak:

Hi Bruce, just came across your post. This item should have been listed at $129.99. Suzanne will be refunding you $70.00
Thanks again for your support!
Tommy

That’s pretty dang awesome right there, Nitro for the win

#9621 1 year ago

Got my adapter plates in today, and got the speaker expression lights kit installed, yay!

Install Tip: If you have a Pinwoofer setup, and you’ve upgraded your back box speakers to PW’s latest version(has PW on back of speaker instead of Pyle), you will need #8 1/2” screws to mount the speakers to the light rings. The supplied 3/8” will not reach the mounting holes.

I mounted my light rings, with the wires mounted closest to the LCD monitor, so my effect would look(L to R) like the letter C and a reverse C. I left on my WizardMod speaker panel cover, to see how it would look behind the Starman graphics, not too shabby. I didn’t install the speaker surrounds, figured I’d save that for another time, if I decide to install them.

If you decide to mount similar to what I shared above, use extreme caution with the wires for each light ring. There’s not a lot of room between ring and LCD monitor. Go easy, and do it at your own risk.

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#9658 1 year ago
Quoted from MattW123456:

My inner loop “fix” is starting to cause the ball to get stuck. Has this happened to anyone else using the Ninjacamp inner loop assist?
[quoted image]

Looks like you NC piece on the topside(per your pic), is installed too far forward. It should be back on the curve, and stop about where that switch starts.

Both pieces should not be across from each other, covering the switch, that’s your issue there.

http://mjf.me/Pinball/Rush_TPU_Loop_Assist_Installation.pdf

#9668 1 year ago
Quoted from JustJared:

I can't get this to open. I was wondering if there were installation instructions. I haven't done my exit stage left sign yet and was hoping to have instructions first

Try this link:
http://instructions.ninjacamp.com/

#9679 1 year ago
Quoted from Drussksu:

Just got my Rush so haven't seen the history on this board. What are the best mods. Share pictures. Thanks!!

Top of this thread, “Topic Gallery”, will show you all of the pics posted in this thread. A good majority covering what you’re looking for.

#9732 1 year ago

Not sounding good with Node 10 boards again. What level of machine: Premium or LE?

Completely off that topic, heard a new call out from Alex during Subdivision multiball “14 divided by 7 + 4 = F#?(F sharp)”

#9762 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

So I'm window shopping right now and entertaining in investing in Rush to go with my GnR ... I know you guys love talking about this stuff so..
Here it is..
I just love the band/music so that's not a problem.
I don't mind waiting for the expression lights if I save 3000 bucks and over premium and LE are basically the same. Right? I can love either artwork/cabinet....

You can get the same gaming experience, out of a Rush Premium + some cash for upgrades, that you can with the LE version. Artwork/backglass and side armor, being the only part of the experience you can’t have or replicate at the moment.

#9805 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

So….. got my game in July. Have just under 450 plays on it….and yesterday I noticed seeing little clear flakes on the playfield.
So I started searching and noticed the VUK.
Anyone else having their clear coat chip away on their premiums around the VUK?
Can’t say I’m happy about this at all.
*Also found a very small chip where the ball drops into the left inlane.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Oh wow, that area around the VUK is pretty beaten up. Not seeing the chip around the rollover you have pictured, but I’m sure it’s there.

To answer your question, I have not. I installed NinjaCamp’s VUK and rollover switch protectors(where balls drop), before first play, so those areas don’t show wear and tear on mine.

Regardless, that’s pretty bad application of clearcoat, to an area that’s going to see extreme abuse.

#9839 1 year ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

So who's put Rivendell in this beast yet?

All of my song selections are Tai Shan

#9847 1 year ago
Quoted from bhelms:

Hi Rush fans! Quick ? re: drum lights. I am a noob who owns an LE running 0.98. On my drum, the hour light and hand move around as expected (I still don't know what any of that means!) but nothing else. Friday evening I played a Premium and the drum on that machine had lights that were quite antimated, apparently in sync with the playfield lighting of the moment. How can I get my drum lights to do the same thing? I looked through the settings and couldn't find anything related. Tks for any advice.
BTW - I will not be installing the V3 scoop protector system p/n 502-8020-00 that my distributor sent me. It looks too klugey and I have the NinjaCamp device to install when I'm ready. And at the same time I will install the "Rush Trough Kit", p/n 502-8018-00 that was sent with the V3 kit. The trough kit is apparently a new mechanical switch for the lower scoop that's on a beefed-up mounting plate. Looks important...!

The interactive drum clock you saw, was probably this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/06837-rush-pinball-pro-interactive-illuminated-clock

Premium/LEs machines came with the version you have on your LE.

#9864 1 year ago
Quoted from Burley9043:

I believe that this has been mentioned in previous threads but not directly addressed. I own an IMDN Prem (it's not leaving) and thinking of adding a Rush Pro. I have played one on location and have really enjoyed it (and I am a Rush fan), but I worry that once I own it and the new game exploration period is over that I will find it to be just a shooter similar to IMDN but not as good and will want to move it. I prefer to buy thinking a game is a keeper, so I am reaching out to those of you who own both games or who have played both extensively to ask your opinion about having both in your home lineup.

Both bands are great, and both pins are their own.

If you decide to get Rush, at least a Premium at minimal, or you might kick yourself later. There’s not many differences, but the playfield will be the same as the LE. It’s just extra bits after that, if you decide to add anything on(expression lights). Cab artwork is different, but Premium/LE gameplay is the same. You lose a couple of things on the Pro.

#9867 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

This is where someone chimes in and says, yeah, you lose node 10 failure. lol.
I'll see myself out.

lol, I thought about adding that in there, but didn’t want to scare him.

#9870 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballConspiracy:

If I got a Clock mod for my Pro, would I be subject to node 10 failure? Where does it plug in? Just at insert lighting? Has anyone on here gotten one? Thnx

The issue with Node 10 as it stands, seems to be related to the moving ramp(Premium/LE) and the clock that’s installed by Stern.

You’ll always be subject to a board failure, for their own various reasons.

#9893 1 year ago
Quoted from vtstarman:

Turned on my Rush Premium today after off for < 48 hours and noticed immediately Drum Clock and Ramp not working. No alerts before starting game. Currently getting Node 1, 8, 9, 10 not responding when going into diagnostics. My machine had been running for 2 months straight until I decided to turn it off (for no particular reason) 2 days ago and after V1.0 update several days prior with no issues following many subsequent plays.
4/22/2022 build. Already replaced Node 10 in mid May following ~5 weeks of play for common burned circuit board issue. Stern (with support from distributor) very prompt with sending out replacement node.
Haven't pulled up the playfield yet. Reboot did not resolve issue. 1st time NIB pin owner... very bummed out about what seems to be another node failure, perhaps more going on than just Node 10 but I'm a noob so reaching out to the gurus. Appreciate any suggestions of where to start?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Close your coin door or pull out the white switch, to engage all components. When you get multiple Node failures reporting, that’s typically what it is. You’re 48v isn’t active, as it’s telling you on the screen.

#9903 1 year ago
Quoted from zebpin61:

I'm still trying to debug why I lost function to a host of pf LED's (planets 19-24, instrument drop targets 28-30, left flashers 165/166, pop bumpers, clock etc). Would someone kindly take a photo of your 8b board? Following p30 on the LE/Premium manual lists CN5 with pin1, black wire as ground but the connector on my board looks backwards, using the board markings compared to the connector wires. I'm tempted to reverse the connector based on this but I'm worried I may have misinterpreted the situation. The connector and pin set appear to be correctly oriented but wires don't correspond to 8b board table on p30. Serial In and OUT connectors are consistent though.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Not the greatest pictures, but happened to catch the area in question, when taking photos of something else. Best I can do currently, without lifting the playfield. I have flipped the pics, so that they are oriented like your post. Looks like they are plugged in the same as mine.

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#9932 1 year ago
Quoted from VisitorQ:

I honestly can't believe this game isn't rated higher than it is on here, amazing code and a lot of great shots! Only going to get better when the expression lighting comes out and the topper IMO.

As much as I love this game, I don’t think it’s deserving of being in the top 10 yet, still too new. Down the road, it will hang around the top 20 I’m sure, but I don’t think enough owners actually love the theme along with the game. For some, it’ll be changed out for the next new shiny thing.

Regardless, it’s my #1 game, and will be a keeper. It’s a great game, and being a huge Rush fan, this pretty much won it for me. I seek no others, lol. It could land at #198, wouldn’t bother me, I love it for what it is.

#9963 1 year ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

Considering joining the club. Has stern fixed the scoop issue from the factory? I know they added the blue bumpers on both sides but I haven’t kept up with the developments. Considering a pro model. Thanks!

They’ve provided their fix, people have stayed with that, or went with NinjaCamp’s protector. Had my NC protector since May, and loving it.

Either way, it’s not a show stopper, there’s things available to address the scoop issue.

#9970 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

I've said it before, but I guess to balance out all the negative comments, I'll mention it again: yes, the lower scoop protector probably does reduce the number of stray balls that get into that scoop. But I've found that it also increases the number of stray balls that get into the upper scoop or bounce over to the Far Cry lock targets or RUSH targets. For me, it's a wash.
As far as the loosening up goes, I'm not having that problem. It was installed by the factory, so maybe they tighten things down more than at-home service does, or maybe they used some Loctite or something like that.
I'd say for someone who already has a third-party protector installed, I wouldn't bother switching back to the OEM part. But likewise, I wouldn't personally bother switching from the OEM part that's already installed. I doubt it really has a significant difference on the overall game one way or the other.

Two biggest things with Stern’s version, the v1(and possibly v2) was also causing some damage to the playfield, as the protector got beaten up more and more. Not sure about the v3, as I haven’t seen anybody checking on it after install. People may have, but not seeing any reports either way regarding further playfield damage.

The NC protector hasn’t been causing any playfield wear, so that’s a bonus or peace of mind, for those that want it.

#9980 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Anyone with the crap menu buttons inside the coin door get a free replacement from their distro?
And the Rush standup target sound is super annoying. Hope they change it.

The few people I’ve seen mention it for Stern games in the past few years, just take it apart and clean it. Most cases that has seemed to work, as debris has gotten in there(probably from factory), causing issues with buttons making good contact.

#9994 1 year ago
Quoted from hiker2099:

Now that’s service.

That’s why some of these 3rd party vendors, get lots of praise from us. Not only product, but also because of their great customer service.

1 week later
#10115 1 year ago
Quoted from bbaker2824:

So .. strange issue going on. Even at a full plunge the ball doesn't have enough power to make it up the shooter lane. I'm finally getting around to looking at it. At rest the plunger is probably 1/4 inch from the ball. It appears to be a little high of center but not enough to cause this. It originally worked fine. Auto launch still works fine. Playfield looks like it's sitting where it should be.
Maybe a herring but looks like plastic shavings in cabinet under shooter.
I'm stumped. Any ideas?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

First thought would be playfield not sitting correctly, but sounds like you checked that. Do any work/maintenance recently, that may have affected something in that area?

Two ideas: Did you check and tighten the mount for the shooter rod?

Is that the original spring inside the cabinet? I can’t remember which color spring came with it originally, but I know I changed mine out to the next higher spring rating vs original.

Possibly the rubber tip on the rod, is not sitting correct or is worn? How many games played on it?

There’s not much to the plunger, will be curious as to what the cause is.

#10118 1 year ago
Quoted from bbaker2824:

Thanks for the thoughts.
It's got maybe 100 games on it. No wear on the tip and the plunger is tight. No work done on it other than the switch replacement in scoop. Original spring.
Do you know what kind of gap yours has at rest in the lane?

I can look later today, taking the kids out to the pumpkin patch and corn maze

We appreciate the response back, as things like this truly help others as well.

#10128 1 year ago
Quoted from John-Floyd:

Tried 175-220 - just a difference in how fast it went down the middle. what is yours set at? # 7 main scoop.

What scoop protector is installed? If you’re not sure, post a picture of it. Ball could be hanging up on the protector as it ejects. Also, make sure the machine/playfield is level side to side.

#10137 1 year ago
Quoted from bbaker2824:

Do you know what kind of gap yours has at rest in the lane?

Didn’t get a chance to take the glass off, but snapped a few pics of mine. My rod sits just slightly off center to the left, of the auto plunge forks. Which is weird for me to see on mine, as I don’t have any issues with short or long plunges.

I am using the stronger orange spring, where there’s no need for a full plunge, but still orbits just fine around the top side of doing one. I’m usually going for the skill shot, and haven’t seen anything stand out when others play either.

Rush Premium from late April build.

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#10141 1 year ago
Quoted from Photopin:

I believe this is an issue on a lot of games. I know mine is this way. I shifted the shooter rod to the right as far as it would go and it's really no better than the pics you've got.

I wonder if that’s intentional, so that the ball will shoot up the right side of the lane, and avoid the gap behind the upper flipper, so that it doesn’t brick the ball on plunge? Just guessing, nothing to validate that.

#10142 1 year ago
Quoted from McDoom:

I just joined the club, boys!! This game is fantastic
[quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome the club

#10208 1 year ago
Quoted from davegauth:

Led Zep expression lighting kits - Anyone know of a place that has these in stock, or someone selling a used one?
I want to install it in my Rush, and have a couple things I want to try.

Best bet is Google search, and see what you can find.

As soon as it was determined the LZ kit could work for Rush, I’m sure a lot of sitting stock has been sold, not sure how many were floating out there.

#10226 1 year ago
Quoted from kool1:

A $2000 Rush topper better blow me

I concur

#10265 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Nubs on ramp have started to split, I saw earlier a post on removing time machine, but can't find now. Any pointers appreciate d.

Just the ramp.

NinjaCamp has instructions on how to do so, disconnect the 4-5 connectors to it/around it, undo the three nuts(playfield upright): under it, two at top, one at bottom. Carefully pull the ramp assembly out. Be mindful of the wires and optos on the sides of ramp.

Two small screws for each nub, use blue Loctite when putting small screws back in.

Be careful of the two nuts with dampeners when reinstalling, do not squish them all the way down. Adjust as needed.

#10267 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Thx, I have the ninja nubbies here, guess I forgot to think about if they had a install sheet

I highly advise doing the Loctite on all of the small screws, holding the metal sides and the nubs. Seen reports of others having them vibrate out. Since you will already have the ramp out, might as well.

#10275 1 year ago
Quoted from John-Floyd:

I didn’t even think of pulling the ramp out - plenty of room for me to easily get them both out. Took all of 5 mins to replace - Haven’t had a problem since first replacing - 100’s of games. [quoted image]

And you may not have another issue with those front 4 screws, but you can’t get to the other 4 screws that would/will need attention down the line, without taking the ramp out. For an extra 2 minutes, it would’ve saved you from pulling the ramp down the road, to make sure the back 4 are maintained. Stern has had a habit of things working themselves loose, due to the “quality” of how they install items.

When you do have a couple of tiny screws just appear on the playfield, you’ll know where they go now

#10283 1 year ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Will keep my $124 topper. Elvira topper at $999 was bad enough.
[quoted image]

At 5.2% of the estimated cost for the official, I completely agree, nice looking topper.

#10284 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

What’s you’re “best”?

Space Coast pinball had a nice set, not sure if he’s still making them or not. Gameroom Mods has some that look nice as well, and they have great customer service also.

If going through Gameroom Mods, think about getting their plastic protector set, either clear or neon color, well worth the extra $$$.

These are the Space Coast pinball version on mine. Comes with the three bulbs and a small base to help decorate and secure the bulbs in place.

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#10365 1 year ago
Quoted from zebpin61:

Next week will mark 5 months that I've been waiting for replacement boards 8 & 8b (lower center and the 3 bank LED boards). I've followed up with Stern half a dozen times without results. Pablo of Tech Support was great in the first week or so but once the matter was handed off to warranty parts order area it's been zip. When I read on this forum how some node 10 boards are replaced in a couple of weeks, it has me thinking that my request is being ignored. Any recommendations from fellow RUSH owners? 5 months simply sucks!

Not only Stern, but make sure your distributor is on that email, if that’s how you’re doing it. Requests have to go through distributors in form of a work order. Anything but, you’ll get extreme runaround from Stern.

It took one month to get my spinner target replacement, then almost another month to get the two decals for it......

#10397 1 year ago
Quoted from Jesterpester:

I think (and hope) I figured out our Node 10 issue. After the first time it burned, we checked over everything and saw no loose connections or anything. Got the replacement which burned again shortly after. Again not finding any connection issues. But noticed this wire tie right off the ramp motor was super tight and pinching the wires. Now we are just waiting for a new board and now a new motor and fingers crossed that stupid little wire tie was the initial issue and we don’t blow another board.
[quoted image][quoted image]

With stranded wire, if you break any of it, it can and will cause issues, as it’s not effectively carrying the load/signal it was designed to. Guaranteed the red wire has broken strands, most likely the black as well. Green 50/50, blue looks ok from that angle. I would still redo them all, just to ensure that’s been repaired.

#10399 1 year ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

That harness is part of the motor assembly that Stern is sending him. Now, hopefully the new assembly doesn't have a zip tie that tight.

Makes me want to check mine this weekend, lol.

I’d like to see others that have Node 10 burn outs, if they have any zips similar to what’s posted above.

#10464 1 year ago
Quoted from LoranSlater:

About to join the club, what's the 'recommended' fix for the orbit not registering?
Before the one on location near me got sold, the switch was replaced with a magnetic one which stopped the ball from getting stuck but didn't stop repeated fast shots from not registering.

Plenty of possibilities(and replies) for this, it all comes down to how your machine was put together. Some people need the NinjaCamp loop assist, others have gone with the plastic cover(from Pete above or another seller on Pinside - Gameroom Mods maybe?), some will suggest the MRS switch. Depending on what your machine does, it may need one, all, or a combination.

I myself have the NinjaCamp assist, and it’s been 100% since installed, nothing more required. If there’s other items you’re planning on getting from NC, might as through their assist kit on the order.

You’ll need to see what your machine does, and decide from there. Or order the different styles to have on hand, and see what works best for you.

15
#10517 1 year ago

Just stopping in here to say, each time I play this machine, I fall more and more in love with it.

That is all.

#10520 1 year ago
Quoted from DiabloRush:

I’m guessing Rush will be the next Stranger Things. Will be more appreciated once its retired, with good examples commanding a resale premium. You couldn’t get close to MSRP for an ST Premium prior to the pandemic. Now, they go for $15K+

Possibly, I do think it’s an under appreciated game by some, due to theme. Much like the band, they click with some, but not the masses, and I’m ok with that. Don’t see a need to start one of many multiple threads “Is xxxx game the greatest of all time?!?!” It is in my eyes, contains what I like in a machine, and keeps me wanting to come back and play more. Plus, our kids absolutely love it, and they have their favorite songs they play to, which is priceless to experience.

Good to see NIB LE owners are having to drop their insane pricing on them though, and get closer to being more realistic. Unfortunately they missed the boat with me, I would’ve bought an LE had pricing been on par, but am very happy with my Premium. A missed sale for someone.

#10557 1 year ago
Quoted from GeneralYagov:

Hey Rush fans!
I just signed up for this site. I bought a Rush Premium back in September and was happy to find this place - lots of good stuff. This Rush game is my first, but I see more in my future.
What brought me here was the Node 10 issue that appears earlier in the thread. Count me as one who had the board burn up in the same spot, and the wires from the time machine ramp stepper motor were crimped super-tight as well. Stern and Maine Home Rec were super fast with the responses - a total of six in less than 24 hours and over the weekend no less.
A ton of thanks for the folks who posted, y'all saved me some time.
Posting some pictures of what I saw between the board and the wires. With the wires there were two ties for the bundle from the motor to the connector, both appeared to be too tight.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You’re the 2nd person within the last 2-3 pages, that has posted damaged wires from zip ties. I’m betting the earlier people that had Node 10 issues, probably have the same wire issue if they look.

Would really like previous Node 10 board replacements, to check their motor wiring for similar issues that you have pictured.

#10559 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

That would explain why replacing the node board didnt last too.It would be nice to have this solved .

Agreed, makes sense if this is a common theme amongst those machines. Haven’t had a chance to check mine yet, but it will be before next power up.

For other owners, check these wires, and any pins in your connectors, I have seen that be an issue as well. Unstable path between board and motor, doesn’t seem to end well for the Node 10.

#10561 1 year ago

Well kids, when going through wiring, and removing zip ties, even experienced people can accidentally clip a wire, lol. This one was tucked through a bundle, and popped out right where I snipped the zip tie. Glad I had all pieces on hand, just replaced the whole wire and pins at either end.

I was undoing the zip ties between ramp motor/drum clock, back to the Node 10 board, checking for potential damage of zip ties being too tight. Thankfully what I found was minimal, but still shows they were a little tight. Only place that really showed pinching, was the infamous spot right off of the ramp motor, that others have posted pics of recently. Mine just wasn’t as bad.

Since this topic has been coming up, possibly relating to Node 10 board issues, I wanted to investigate mine. Peace of mind now

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#10580 1 year ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

had my game for 2 months and i just came across the "challenges" games. didn't know this was even a thing.

Hemispheres challenge is a lot of fun

10
#10595 1 year ago

Have to share, for those of us in the “Under 1B Score Club”, had a great flowing game today, making a lot of combo shots, and hitting trapped ball behind the instruments repeatedly, amongst all the other craziness on the playfield.

I finally broke my 200M threshold, with a 423M score. There was so much going on, for such a long duration, started pondering “can this machine take the abuse all at once?

Again, not to flaunt any huge score, just my personal best on my machine. More than doubled previous scores. Wanted to share with those that understand the excitement

Side note: I’ve been using YYZ for initials, since roughly 1992. Fitting to have it now on this game.

59FF2B1C-84EC-4CE9-9DE7-350645A2ADFD (resized).jpeg59FF2B1C-84EC-4CE9-9DE7-350645A2ADFD (resized).jpeg

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#10608 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

I see your problem. You're not playing enough!! Scores will improve

lol, very true. I only get a chance every couple of weeks, to put on 3-5 games(10 if they’re horrible quick games), but it’s coming along. The rest are kids/wife playing. Even as much as my wife doesn’t like Rush(Geddy’s voice), she loves the game.

#10609 1 year ago
Quoted from lospugs:

Congrats, my house is in the same echelon-ish. You've got to break 300M to get onto the leaderboard, but I have plenty of games I just quit on ball 2 because I won't be making it above 15M.

Had plenty of games that way, then ball 3 becomes a miracle game. Play ‘til the end my friend.

#10624 1 year ago
Quoted from upsfeedr:

Just was Wondering what you guys have you left and Right Flippers set at For Power Level..i know it was poster here before
Thanks

Without going and looking, think I set my bottom two at 185-190, and upper right to 175-180. Pretty sure I had a 10 point difference between upper and lower. It plays smooth, and I don’t experience the reject shots others have mentioned previously. A bad shot is a bad shot, the kind you already know won’t make it, as soon as you flip.

#10638 1 year ago
Quoted from Vino:

Anyone know of a resource for clear plastic protectors? Thanks!

Gameroom Mods, check under market place for Rush items.

To include options for a few posts above, I went with the red protectors.

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#10669 1 year ago
Quoted from BRW84:

I picked up a Rush Pro yesterday and I've got a question for folks in this group that I sincerely hope doesn't cause any hard feelings. I was super excited to snag this machine based on the reviews I'd seen. I like Rush, I like the art package, I like the code, and I love the callouts and the clear passion that went into this game. What's hanging me up, unfortunately, is the gameplay. I've got my machine at a dead-on 6.5 degree pitch and perfectly level, but it feels like every shot in the game is just too tight. I'm bricking balls all over creation to the point that I'm one day in and already thinking about a trade or sale, and I've never had that experience before (I've owned 22 machines, currently own 12). In particular, the right ramp and the shot through the pop garden feel like they're at least an eighth of inch too tight. I like both flow games and stop-and-go games, and I also like difficult games, but I'm having more difficulty getting dialed into this one than any game I've ever owned, and that includes a Flash Gordon. I'm not trying to rag on Rush -- I desperately want to love it -- but I'm walking away in frustration every game. Did anyone else have this experience and then come around? If so, what was your strategy (beyond "git gud")? I'm a firm believer that it takes at least a hundred games to render a verdict, but I'm closing in on 40 or 50 and I'm just struggling.

Give it time, it’s supposed to be challenging, would be boring otherwise. Wouldn’t you be disappointed if you spent $7K on a machine that was extremely easy? I would, I expect a big challenge if I’m spending that kind of money.

Much like being a musician and playing Rush tunes, it’s challenging and rewarding for those that seek it.

Keep your head up, when you start getting the feel dialed in, the game opens up a lot more.

For record, have my pitch at 6.5, out lanes set from factory.

#10719 1 year ago
Quoted from JonCBrand:

Having an issue with scoop/eject on my pro
I recently installed Ninja Camp protector and have noticed this since and may or may not be related
Occasionally a shot into side/upper scoop will make noise and register if it's a lock or extra ball. The ball will roll down to lower scoop but will not eject, until ball search and sometimes it takes 2 cycles of ball search to eject.
I have glass off and cycled ball through both scoops easily 50 times each with zero issues.
Any ideas?
Update
Just had a ball stuck went 3 cycles. I found it hung up at end of upper scoop subway where it feeds into lower scoop trough. A bit of shimming and it's 100% again.

Two things, double check your work installing the NC protector, as if not properly placed, can cause some issues. 2nd thing being, make sure nothing fell down into your scoops(washer, spacer, screw, ect...).

Glad it’s working, but you shouldn’t have to shim it.

#10721 1 year ago
Quoted from GrooTheWanderer:

SterlingRush , could you please elaborate on improper placement of the NC protector? Can it somehow block the sensor? I’m trying to decide between installing a NC or Cliffy for the scoops and want to get it right.

NC protector, would be more of ball insertion/ejection, usually caused by the flaps protecting the sides of holes, not sitting properly. Example, upper scoop(right side as looking at it), has a piece that tucks in between the wood of the hole, and the metal of that scoop. If that is not seated properly, it will cause issues.

If you’re believing it’s more of a switch/sensor issue, clean them with alcohol and a qtip, then check for blockage within the subway, check wiring and connectors(if you undid any). Yours being a later run machine, I wouldn’t think Stern still placed the faulty switch for the subway, but never know.

#10749 1 year ago
Quoted from kempsuk:

Hi Rush Fans
On my Rush... the ball seems to rattle around the shooter lane when I plunge, so I don't get a nice clean plunge out of the shooter lane. Is this a common thing on Rush? Any adjustments, changes, or mods out there for this?
Thank you

Make sure your playfield, shooter rod, and shooter rod housing, are all secure and set right. If problem still exists, then look into the shooter lane assist.

#10761 1 year ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Yes, as discussed wayyyyy earlier in this thread, I started with the MRS to see if that solved the problem. It helped a lot (went from ~30% registering with the stock setup to ~80% with MRS) ... but 80% wasn't enough. At the time some folks had mentioned having success with adding the felt strip to help push the ball back down. I added this (which isn't visible to the player, btw, it's only visible in that pic due to the weird viewing angle) and that drove successful registers up to 98%. It missed once or twice way back then after I'd initially installed the felt, which is why I didn't claim it to be 100% -- but it's been over six months since then and I honestly can't remember the last time I hit that shot and it DIDN'T register.
So, MRS alone was not enough, but MRS + felt is enough to consider it resolved for me.

Oh how I remember those few weeks/months of discussion, lol.

For me, the 2 piece NinjaCamp Innerloop Assist, has worked flawlessly. No need for top lexan cover, felt, or MRS switch, has registered each and every time.

But it does come down to each individual machine, what works great for one, doesn’t mean it’ll be 100% for another.

#10770 1 year ago
Quoted from John-Floyd:

Yeah this is an odd one for me. Many go STDM, some hit the left flipper and some hit the right flipper. Just wondering what I can do to get some consistency. Never had this problem until I put the ninja in… wondering if I should try to re-seat the entire scoop again.

Yea, always go back and double check anything you touched during installation, when you encounter issues not previously present.

Did you follow NC’s directions completely? Install it without directions? Spacers placed correctly? Be thorough when checking. I ask, to ensure you didn’t loosen something you didn’t need to, and in turn added another point that help cause your issue.

Another trick, loosen the scoop assembly just slightly(same loosening as the NC steps), turn counterclockwise as much as you can, then retighten. As mentioned, not much wiggle room, but a little can go a long way. This will help aim more for the left flipper, whether it be a hard release, or a dribble.

#10801 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

OK. Good to know. I will wait and see if I can get the replacement. I do have the Cliffy in waiting but really like the look of the NC.

NC will take care of you, as they mentioned in the post above, they’re aware and take great care of their customers.

#10828 1 year ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

One of the frequent posters here made a pretty lengthy guide on how to install Expression Lights without lifting the playfield not long ago, but I’m struggling to find it. Did anyone happen to bookmark it?

Without looking, I think it’s back on page 184-185, if I remember correctly.

Edit: Yep, pg 184-185 has good info, here’s my post on it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/184#post-7108717

#10888 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

I began the process of downloading the latest code this AM. Download speed is on the average of 30. Six hours later and about 12 percent complete overall. At this rate the download will take around 18-20 hours. Is this normal? Last I checked this was 2022 not 1997.

Depends on your internet provider, and and bottlenecking with signal, as it travels to the Stern server, and also the server’s capabilities. Too much traffic at one point or another, will cause issues.

#10902 1 year ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

Curious if anyone else on here had trouble getting the Ninja Camp VUK protector to work properly? No matter how I situate it - the ball won't trigger the switch. It seems this product is just far too thick. Has anyone had similar issues?

As mentioned by another poster, sounds like the ring part isn’t sitting flush in the hole. That bottom lip has to stick all the way through. Did you follow NC’s install directions?

Other suggestion would be to make sure everything is lined up properly(VUK/wireform), or that you don’t have something in there blocking it. Did you unplug anything and forgot to plug it back up? Is your coin door open when testing?

#10908 1 year ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

So I installed it twice per their instructions. I can’t see any more play on either the top half or bottom half to pull it in one direction or another. It seems it may just be too tall / big? If I nudge the ball with my finger down the vuk switch activates and kicks ball up.
Unless I misunderstand their instructions the bottom lip portion should be on the bottom of the playfield as opposed to jammed into the hole. I’ve pulled it out and reseated it twice with same results. Either I’m missing something (always possible) or it’s design is just a hair too “tall”.
I do not have my coin door open.

Maybe revisit step 3, does it look like the ring is preventing the switch in any way? Can’t remember without looking, I think there’s a little notch for the switch, isn’t there? Maybe it just needs a slight trim?

http://mjf.me/Pinball/Rush_TPU_VUK_Protector_Installation.pdf

You are correct, bottom ring should be flush to bottom side of playfield, no wiggle room between top and bottom.

Gotta ask, the side with the longer lip, is on the top playfield side, correct? Long piece towards back of the VUK? Just trying to rule out issues without pictures

#10909 1 year ago

So trying to decide which color to stay with, or keep both for variation. I’ve seen plenty of people get Schwasggs(Gameroom Mods) green dice, for the RTB scoops, but haven’t see other colors posted. I ended up getting blue and red sets, as I wasn’t sure which one I’d like more.

Having a hard time choosing one of the two, or staying with how it’s pictured.

Whatcha think, both red, both blue, one of each? Just curious of other thoughts.

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#10914 1 year ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Personally I like green, since that's sorta the 'standard' Lock Ball indicator insert color. Though I imagine white is nice too since they'll be their 'real' color.

Who wants “standard”, bleh!

Nothing against green, just that a lot of machines I’ve seen, that’s typically what they have. Dare to be different, even in the smallest of details, lol.

#10915 1 year ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Green has always been the color for locking balls / multiball in pinball, I’d stick with that. Regardless of what color you choose, the dice look great, like they’re factory. Best cheap mod for Rush imo
Also was surprised to see my most listened to artist on Spotify this year was Rush. Was a band I was lukewarm/ not really a fan of prior to getting hooked on the pin
[quoted image]

I know Transformers and the Sega Harley Davidson, were both red, I’m sure others as well.

I agree green seems the most common, but again, who wants common/standard? Viva La Resistance’!!

Yes, either case, they’re a great small mod from Schwaggs, like many of his other pieces. That’s why I was asking for outside views, thank you everyone.

#10923 1 year ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

I followed the installation instructions and photos. So I did not install it upside down if that is what you are asking. Picture below. I also centered the part per the instructions and ensured that my finger could trigger the switch freely (which it can). I actually installed this part with a portion of the topside torn down so I was able to really center it. When it didn't work I had to reinstall it from the bottom up because I didn't want to tear all the parts down again.
I assume I have done it correctly because the small lip is poking out the bottom of the VUK (where the coil mounts back) and I can't see any more "play" to pull it down lower.
Here is my problem - when the ball goes into the VUK it doesn't trigger the switch. The ball sits up too high because I think the ninja camp part may be too "tall". Before ever posting here I started by reaching out to them 4 days ago but when they never responded I figured I'd check on here if you guys had an easy solution. I think it likely just needs to be returned for a new one or I will likely just install the Cliffy and call it a day.
When the ball goes in - no switch triggers. If I push the ball down with my finger the switch triggers (so there are no other mechanical reasons why the switch won't trigger). If i remove the part completely game acts normally. It seems to me I would have to bend the switch way more than a little to get it to reliably trigger.
The purchase receipt from pinside said I should PM Aniraf for issues with the product. Is there an alternate contact I should be reaching out to?
[quoted image]

Placing pics here for now, coming back to edit this post shortly.

OK, from what I can see from your pics, it looks ok, curious by what you meant with "I had to reinstall it from the bottom" referring to the 2nd time. Did you install it from the bottom the first time, or from topside? Is there any chance, you may have bent/snagged that switch just a little bit during install? Again, just asking questions to eliminate possibilities, not to judge.

I've included pics of mine, reference them with yours, and see if you notice anything slightly off. Worst case, I'm thinking either the switch got slightly bent/snagged, or something small(TPR spider webbing) is causing the switch not to react properly. Hopefully it'll just take replacing the piece, which NinjaCamp is awesome about. If the same issue persists with 2nd piece, then I'd refer back to the above. It about ruling out the other possibilities.

As you mentioned, you can message Aniraf or @OutpostKodelia, and they will follow up with you. Can't remember which one, but one of the accounts, the other doesn't have access to, and that can cause delays in responses. They may have something else going on, but they are extremely great with their customers and messages. You can also post in their thread, to hopefully get more attention from them. Just post you messaged them regarding the VUK protector, and have some questions/trouble.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ninjacamp-mods

Sounds like you've done a great job troubleshooting so far, it's appreciated when people reply back with great detailed info. Not only for myself, but helps others down the road as well. In any case, will be an easy fix, either with a part or readjustment, that's a good place to be with a machine, lol.

Let us know the resolution when it happens.

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#10969 1 year ago

Also check for tight zip ties on cabling, between ramp motor and Node board. There’s been cases of that causing a couple of issues, maybe you got lucky and it didn’t blow your chip.

#10976 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Ramp is down and dead. Clock lights up, but the hand does not move. This could be a sign that the chip is indeed fried.

Haven’t seen you mention it, are you getting the Node 10 Failure message on your screen, when powered on?

If not, did you do any work on the machine, and forget to plug something back in?

#10980 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

No failure message. did not do any work on the machine either.

So far, that’s a good sign.....

#10988 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

When that particular chip blows, does it give a message? I don't remember that it does. The machine can still communicate with the board (which would throw a node error if it couldn't), the board just can't drive the ramp and clock motors anymore.

Without going back through the thread, I do believe it brings up the red message of death “Node 10 Failure”, from what I’ve seen. Doesn’t mean all scenarios will be that though.

#11057 1 year ago
Quoted from doublestack:

Really? I thought the consensus was the pro was pretty close on this one. On Borg games I’ve not been let down yet with a pro. Need to play a premium now.

A lot of people have fun on the Pro, but if you’re seriously considering getting one for your home environment(which you should ), step up to a Premium.

Sure, it’s little nuances between the Pro/Prem in mechanical aspects, but it adds more joy to the layout and feel when playing. It gets you the LE playfield without the LE price tag, with the exception of no expression lights, unless you install the Led Zeppelin ones instead.

#11064 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

The premium could be a compromise but I'll be honest I'm nervous about node 10 and so that's a plus in the pro column.

Not 100% confirmed, but more recently, I think the issue was figured out. A couple of people found broken/damaged wires from zip ties too tight from factory, between ramp motor and Node board. If the line power breaks while ramp is in use, can cause the chip on Node board to fry.

I’ve asked previous people with the Node board issue, to verify their wiring, to see if that was the issue with theirs, but no follow up from them. Main reason to check, if you have damaged wires, swapping boards will only get you so far, and not solve the problem.

If you go Premium, check zip ties between both clock and ramp, back to the Node 10 board. Later runs I believe helped address this, still worth checking.

#11181 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

It's officially official.
How do I know when it was built? (My first Stern)
[quoted image]

Yep, will be on a yellow sticker, on backside of head, born on date.

#11260 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Thanks I should have mentioned this that I did connect to my Wi-Fi successfully. When I go to insider connected it says on the pinball screen to scan the QR code or go to the web address and I've already gone to the web addressing created the account but the pinball machine is not recognizing the fact that I'm holding a QR code in front of the scanner. It's not lighting up it's not making a beep It's not doing anything that I would expect it to do if a QR code got in range of the scanner on the pinball machine.
And by the way the QR code I'm holding up is the little square card that came with the pinball machine. I'm not using my phone or anything like that. I couldn't find a insider connected application from the Play store. So I'm assuming I have to either use a picture on my phone or the actual card that came with the pinball machine

Disregard, you’re already helped

#11269 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Hey what's the fan noise I keep hearing starting and stop, it's pretty noisy I'd love to quiet this down?
Fun shooting game so far! Just got it setup yesterday! Can't wait till I start to know the rules.

I see PM already replied, his fan kit is worth the few bucks and easy to install. Solves that issue.

#11274 1 year ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Holy crap, I noticed this in my Bond LE that arrived this week -- the fan is WAY louder than the one in GoT, AIQ, and Rush LE. I've been able to tolerate these others, but wow. And yet, the "replacing the fan in your power supply may void your warranty" gives me pause, especially considering what the games are costing these days. I'm sure it'd be fine, but to risk it...?

By Stern standards, most of us owners are technically out of their warranty stage, food for thought.

Also, so does replacing the scoop protector, or any other add on, you do to your machine. The moment something is not stock, it falls into that “may void warranty”.

If you can live with the current fan, no need to fix something not broken. But at least there’s options

#11296 1 year ago
Quoted from tsinger873:

Has anybody had any sound issues like static or scratchy sound in the game? My Rush music sounds normal but the sound effects are not right. Are there separate amps for music and sound on a Spike 2 machine? Maybe 1 has gone bad. Thoughts?

Yea, some sound effects don’t mix well with the music and call outs, when combined through the speakers. They’re two different levels of recorded samples, trying to play at the same time. Got mine set to 0 for Music Attenuation, and -10 for Speech Attenuation. Feature adjustments under Rush, #218-219.

I’m also running Pinwoofer on mine, main volume on machine at 18, then set PW to my liking.

#11306 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Definitely go with carbon steel for Rush because of the Time Machine magnet. Ball Barron (as linked previously) makes good balls.

Make sure to check those balls, like any other, I received 24 that were completely unusable and pitted, when they arrived to me.

#11311 1 year ago

“High score achieved, high score achieved...”

Just shot my best game so far, I’m in the 1/2 Billion club now

Ball 1 was crap, ball 2 was ok, ball 3 showed up to play! First time I’ve obtained the weapon twice, within 1 game. Man my wrists hurt, lol.

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#11377 1 year ago
Quoted from ExSquid:

No joke, Me looking at this thread every day debating on getting rid of my Godzilla for one of these.....[quoted image]

Not sure GZ is the way to go, but as you said, if you’re not feeling the desire for “one more game”, that’s telling you something.

Seeing that you’re a Rush fan, there’s so many little add ons you can do to the machine(if you choose), and plenty of info/people in this thread to help you dial it in.

I personally, am glad I held out from buying any other machine, and stumbled upon this being announced and made. Even my wife(not a Rush fan), thinks this is the best machine we’ve ever owned or played. Our boy loves jamming out to One Little Victory, so cute to see him “boogie down”, when he selects the song.

#11384 1 year ago
Quoted from bouche03:

I just had this happen to me! What was your end solution for this? Just buy them from McMaster?

If the screws dropped on/in the playfield, you’ll want to find them. It’s possible they’ll fall into the bottom cabinet, make sure to check there as well. Since they’re so small, they could be caught in wiring also. Check all troughs, VUK hole, ect...

The parts are still there, even though some times it feels like they vanished, just need to locate them. Once found, make sure to use some Loctite with them.

#11495 1 year ago
Quoted from benime:

That...still doesn't make sense, but I agree that everybody wins in the end when we have more options and are free to think for ourselves.

“If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice.”

#11519 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Okay two things. I'm hearing a mode start with a call out for Bastille Day and it's counting down. I'm supposed to do something to collect a jackpot? Eventually at times out and I know I've lost the opportunity to collect it but I just don't know what to do. What's going on and what is my objective?
Two, I still don't understand the diverter. I see it switch automatically and I also see a settings about the aggressiveness of the switching. I've just left it on auto. I thought the action button would switch that diverter but I don't know when that is effective because I'm pressing the action to expect it to switch the diverter but it doesn't really Do anything and I suspect it's because I'm just not pressing the action at the right time? Not that I understand when to switch right now but that's beside the point. I'm just trying to see the action button actually operate the diverter.
Enjoying the game more and more as I start to get familiar with the playfield. Plays so fast.
Just found the humor mode and maxed it. That turns up the entertainment for sure.
Got the quiet fan and voodoo glass, definitely creature comfort improvements... Although I can't believe how tight stern glass is. Feel like I'm going to break it ... And the voodoo glass was even tighter. I'm not sure I'll ever be able to get it out again. Lol
I'm not a big fan of the cheap feeling shooter rod. If there was a upgrade mod for that and a better spring, I'd be in.
I haven't figured out how to get in jukebox attract mode or if there is even one of those? I see DJ mix and some other settings in there but I'm not sure what those mean. If they're related to this then I just don't know how to activate the jukebox mode.
Lots to learn for my first stern.

Glass issue: pull glass out, each side rail has two outside screws in the middle, and one bolt at either end. Loosen each just a touch, and see if the fixes your tightness issue. Note, the bolt closest to backbox, you’ll need to lower the backbox down to get access to them.

If not that, does your glass have anti-rattle tape on the edges? That also causes severe tightness.

Diverter: you won’t see movement hitting the action button, it just tells the machine which outlane you want the ball dropping into, when you hit the right ramp. Action button also engages the weapon, when you’ve collected it.

#11540 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

I also feel like the stock spring doesn't have a lot of range It's either full plunge or not enough that middle range seems to be missing.

I went with the orange spring from Pinball Life(or other sources), made a huge difference. PBL has a chart on their spring page, to let you know what color springs are harder/softer.

#11589 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Well got about 2.5 hours worth of play on this new node board before it shit the bed. I guess you got to laugh because Stern ain't gonna do jack about this issue. I knew it would happen, but damn that thing fried quick!

That tells you there’s something else causing the issue. If you haven’t, follow the wires, from plug back to the ramp, undo all zip ties, check for damage. Check the connector, make sure all pins are seated within the housing. Check wires at ramp, make sure it hasn’t rubbed through the insulation.

Also do the same for the clock, but better chance it’s in the path from the ramp.

#11597 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Ya, sorry I got sidetracked by Tslayer71's comment. [quoted image]

That’ll be a point of future concern, but don’t think that one spot is deep enough, to cause the issue. I think that runs to the opto. How does the rest of that wire look, running through the cable clamp towards the ramp?

Yea, it’s not fun tracing wires through the bundles. I’ve found it easier to undo the zip ties, to access them.

#11671 1 year ago
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:

I finally got some time to dig in pulled the ramp harness. There was some definite crimping of the wires..but nothing like what I saw when I pulled the clock.
Also noticed a lot of loose wires going into the connectors.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for sharing the pics, this will help others down the road.

#11732 1 year ago

Sooooooo close!!!!

Had a damn good run, again on ball 3, lol. 1 & 2 were decent, a lot of song modes and multiballs. At one point, I was able to actually count the balls in play, I know I had 5 balls going for sure, might have been 6 with 1 being in the scoop or VUK. Either way, most balls at once I’ve ever played on this machine.

Actually saw the complete/almost complete dark mode of Fly By Night.

Best game and experience I’ve had on this machine so far, loving it!

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#11742 1 year ago

For those who may have missed their posting, NinjaCamp has released under cabinet lighting, that interacts with the expression lights, much like their speaker light kit.

You need to have expression lights themselves, in order for this to work. Works on Rush and LZ.

Just sharing for those that may want to know.

#11743 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

Would love to see these too as no matter what I try so far I'm still intermittently dealing the main scoop firing balls at the very tip of the right flipper, so I'm willing to try whatever remedy you can recommend!

Can’t remember if it was asked, what scoop protector are you using, Stern(which version) or NinjaCamp? If either are not set right or tweaked just a little, it will affect ball eject.

#11750 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

I know this topic had been discussed ad nauseam but just wondering if this stock scoop issue is an every game & every version eventually will develop this after so many plays, or is it limited to an early build thing, or just side scoop eject PreLE thing?
Obviously I'll deal with it if it comes up with my pro but curious.. thx

It seems to be one of two things, from what I’ve read this past year. Either how scoop was positioned from factory(or if any maintenance was done), or it’s how the protector guarding the hole is sitting.

Any model: Pro, Premium, LE

V1 & V2 of Stern’s protectors, had issues with the protector bending/warping, that affected ball entrance and ejection. NinjaCamp’s protector works great, but needs to be positioned just right, or it too will affect ball entrance and ejection. If it happens to by NC’s V1 protector, contact them for the upgrade. V1 had some small issues that caused the protector to fray a little.

#11788 1 year ago
Quoted from nerbflong:

Yeah that knockoff is terrible!! Surprised they are still selling them

That’s where I scored mine from, sometime last year. Great communication and fast shipping. Had it in hand within 36 hours, YMMV.

#11802 1 year ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

Haven't checked in on this thread in a few months, any update on EL kits or the Topper?

Nope

#11808 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Got bored so doing the Scoop Protector. Can anybody tell me on the underside of the playfield if there are (2) washers associated with the orange circled nut and the bottom-most nut circled in red. Ended up with extra pieces after having put this thing back together, lol.
The weird thing is that these 2 washers do not fit into the screws. The third washer and nut fit just fine (also circled in red)
Thx
[quoted image]

The nuts circled in red and orange, each have one washer to them on bottom side, from factory.

Do you have your washers up top? Or swap them with what NinjaCamp provided?

Is your machine new or 2nd hand? Someone may have added extra washer(s) to the scoop, for various reasons.

44D14713-6D5C-4680-958C-068BF027C943 (resized).jpeg44D14713-6D5C-4680-958C-068BF027C943 (resized).jpeg8E00A78F-AA08-42C0-AAB0-236ADB35E880 (resized).jpeg8E00A78F-AA08-42C0-AAB0-236ADB35E880 (resized).jpeg
#11810 1 year ago

OK, power’s out, so I have time to follow up on my pics below. Just got done fixing our washer, power went out right as I started to take the first screw out. Yes, machine was unplugged

Basing my observations from my machine, using similar thinking from when I used to prep and splice fiber optics. It teaches you what to aware of, and what can/will cause potential problems with signal.

Anyway, below are additional pics I took, when checking my wiring for the ramp and clock, some time ago. Things I/others have mentioned previously, zip ties being too tight, how soft the sheathing is, on the wires coming of the mechs, checking pins are seated properly in the connectors, ect...

While doing this, the ramp has a small blessing, the soft sheathing only goes from motor, to the first connector(approx 8”), then harder sheathed wire back to the Node board.

The clock on the other hand, doesn’t have any protection going back to the Node board, other than that soft sheathing. Not only zip ties, but other elements can potentially be pinching/breaking the stranded wire, along that path. On mine, I noticed the hole of the playfield and cable clamp, being a potentially bad spot, as the two other wire looms are so tight, they were pinching the soft wires against the wood, both top and bottom side. Be sure to examine how your moving or placing wire around there, as I can see that causing headaches.

So what I did, was free those wires with soft sheathing, and wrapped plastic spiral tubing around them. Keeps them together and safe, extra protection at the hole of the playfield. Did the same for the ramp, just to keep the wires together vs hanging loose.

Not saying this is THE fix, as none of us truly know yet, but wanted to share additional info I observed. I agree, the ramp moves a lot more vs the clock, but the clock wires have literally 0.000012 protection on them.

Things to keep in mind.

I’ll resort the pics, once I’m back at my computer.

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#11873 1 year ago

I love how this game has ebb and flow to it. One ball only scoring 7mil, then another ball scoring 300mil, lol. I feel bad for our oldest, who was just sitting there waiting her turn.

#11931 1 year ago
Quoted from gouveia:

But as Rush fans, do we really care?

Nope, not a bit. No regrets getting mine.

#11989 1 year ago
Quoted from johnnytruant:

It was actually direct from Amazon without a 3rd party seller, if you can believe it (I had a ton of rewards points, + free shipping and 5% back from my CC). Sat on the listing for a couple months until I saw one pop up a few weeks ago.
I saw Cooltoy's video on his simple/pain-free experience buying a pin on Amazon and thought I couldn't go wrong:
It is interesting though, at some point this 300lb box has to surface somewhere... right?
I was just taken aback by the admission from Ceva that they had been trying to find it for the past few days but have zero idea where it is, and that there was nothing else they could tell me. Sort of reminds me of that Seinfeld episode where the dry cleaner finally admits he shrunk one of Jerry's shirts.

What’s that age old saying, if it seems/sounds too good to be true?

Glad to hear the refund is in process, but I’d stick with tried and true distributors, which won’t always be the best deal.

#12023 1 year ago
Quoted from Vino:

[quoted image]

That look of Neil, seems to be more of “Hey, that’s MY sandwich!”

#12060 1 year ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

I heard that. It's almost like you're playing Russian Roulette when you hit that Start button.
I sure hope Stern comes up with a fix to bulletproof poor Node 10 soon!

Correction, Rush N’ Roulette

Node 10 is affected, but doesn’t seem to be the issue/cause. Same boards used in GZ, without issue reported.

#12074 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

see node board 10 thread .a possible solution was offered today by a fellow pinsider.Interesting at the very least.

Oh yes, I keep up on that thread, saved in my favorites.

Debating on what I’m going to do, fix it and make it right(and lose any Stern help), or knock on wood and hold Stern responsible if/when it happens, and play the waiting game.

#12075 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

did someone say rush 'n' roulette?
[quoted image]

lol, there’s a couple “unofficial” live recordings with this title, I’ve got one or two in the collection, but not this one.

#12155 1 year ago
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:

The action button doesn’t even work to start a game. It doesn’t work to choose people on my IC home team…

I haven’t tried it personally, but I don’t think the action button starts the game. Once you press Start, you can use it to eject the ball out of the shooter lane, to start gameplay.

Most/all your questions can be answered, searching and reading through this thread.

Also, when your lockdown bar is off, is your coin door still open? If so, pull the little white knob on the left, inside the coin door, or close the coin door before testing.

#12162 1 year ago
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:

Just wanted to give an update. I found the problem with the Action button. I took the leaf switch off and the whole switch was bent closed so I bent it up to open and now it works. Thanks for all the help!!!

I stand corrected on my theory, and can admit it

Learned something new about the game.

#12175 1 year ago

For those still waiting for, or debating ordering, I installed my NinjaCamp under cabinet expression lighting, and love it.

Wasn’t really into any under cabinet lighting, but the fact this works in sync with the expression lights, it’s an awesome effect. Not for everyone, but I’m enjoying it.

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#12194 1 year ago

Holy hell, didn’t realize how much difference this would make, finally installed the NinjaCamp Spinner Lane Adjuster.

Thought my spinner lane was playing fine, but figured I’d throw it in and see. Huge impact, to where I have to account for the speed of it coming out of the lane, and readjust timing. Made a fast game even faster at that spot, lol.

Yet another “I tip my hat to you NC team”, simple and effective.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1326-ninjacamp-mods/07067-rush-spinner-exit-adjuster

#12246 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Am I just noticing on my pro the red lights on the sensors of left ramp and left side of timemachine with the red light? Are they always on?
[quoted image]

Yes, when the beam of light gets broken(ball passing through), is when it triggers. You can see it happen, go into switch tests, use your finger to pass through, it’ll show you.

#12298 1 year ago
Quoted from vikingerik:

What's the consensus best way to fix the upper loop switch not registering? Mine has that problem, fast shots almost never register. I see a number of possibilities in the key posts index - is there a group favorite?

You’ll get 50/50 replies on this, what works for one, may not work the same for another. I myself, went with NinjaCamp’s loop assist kit, and never needed to try anything beyond that. As it works 100% on mine, didn’t need to try anything else.

Others have had great success with the clear lane cover, I cannot speak from any personal experience with that method. Try one method, if it doesn’t deliver, go with the other.

Welcome to the club!

#12306 1 year ago
Quoted from lospugs:

There's no such thing as consensus on the upper loop switch.
I have tried both the NC full kit (3 piece bundle) and the gameroom mods plastic protector.
With regard to shot registration, they have been equal. When they are both in the proper place, my shots are registering 100% of the time. I personally don't even see the clear plastic from GM when it's installed, so I actually don't notice it's there.
With NC, I had what appears to be a slightly unique problem in that my piece on the curve of the loop wouldn't stay in place. I'd have to slide the glass down and adjust it back to the location about every 50-100 games or so. It's printed with little clip feet on it that are supposed to prevent that from happening but no matter how I put it on, and how secure it felt when I had it in place, it would start walking around the loop corner toward the switch. As far as I remember, I'm the only one in this thread that has had that experience. Like I said though, when it was in place, it fixed the shot registration problem 100%.
I also can't vote strongly enough for the NC plunge lane piece. That made the skill shot much more reasonable and predictable.

If reading correctly, you’re talking about the left hand side piece, yes? The longer of the two?

I’d contact NC, and see if there’s any chance of getting a replacement. It might have been an earlier version, or maybe the material didn’t set like it should? Either way, NC’s great about following up, and supporting their products(like many others for the Rush mods/add ons).

Once installed correctly and securely, it shouldn’t move. Mine has stayed put since day of install, May 2022.

#12314 1 year ago

Finally, finally, finally.....get to join the 1B club! Only downside, I wasn’t logged into Stern IC, lol.

240 plays on the machine(family and myself), and have just set a new goal to aim for

63CA6351-C023-41F7-99F7-BD54AC345CF4 (resized).jpeg63CA6351-C023-41F7-99F7-BD54AC345CF4 (resized).jpeg
#12317 1 year ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

You can log into IC at any point in the game before the last ball drains. So if you have a killer ball 1 or 2 grab your phone.

Not too worried about it, but good to know for future. Didn’t even think about it, until it came time to put in the initials, lol.

#12380 1 year ago
Quoted from foozle:

Rush premium is my first pinball. I was wondering if the various menu items were listed and explained anywhere? The basic adjustments are listed in the owners manual, but not really explained in depth. For example, the manual says "extra ball percentage" is set to 25% by default, but what does that mean exactly?
Also, there appear to be other Rush feature adjustments in the menu that I don't see in the manual. The manual says they exist but don't describe them.
Just one example, but one thing I noticed on my machine compared to some I've seen in videos is that when there is a "ball save," the new ball is auto plunged, compared to some on youtube where it looks like they are manually plunging the saved ball.
Thanks!

Yea, Stern gives the general adjustments, that cross all games using the same system(Spike2), like Rush/GZ/LZ ect... anything game specific for any of the titles, is not listed.

As mentioned, just go through the list of adjustments, and you can get an idea of what’s there. Trial and error on some of them.

At the top of this thread, you can search “topic” within this thread for adjustments. Some of the important ones have been mentioned.

#12383 1 year ago
Quoted from WesleyB:

I have had Rush for a few months and the scoop kickout has always been inconsistent…now I know why.
[quoted image]

Damn!!!!!

#12384 1 year ago
Quoted from DwightEisenhower:

Turned on Rush premium today for a game and got feedback through speakers at regular intervals. Sounded like a heart beat but painful to the ears. Have had pinwoofer in for over a month and this is first time it has happened. Any thoughts?

Anything else(new) plugged into same outlet or circuit of the room?

Reach out to Dan at PW, he’d have the best possible solutions.

#12411 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Anyone else experiencing flipper fade? I am. Looks like fans are in my near future. I'm not sure how you billionaires are managing? I don't recall much conversation about it here... Is it just me?

As mentioned, coil stop replacements are a must. Search the topic flipper fade in this thread, PinMonk has a great write up from his findings.

#12441 1 year ago
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:

Another question….when the concert footage is shown during gameplay on the LCD screen…there is a lag with Geddy’s lips and the music coming from the speakers. Is this normal or is there a setting I can adjust in the menu? TIA

Depending the song(s) in question, it’s live performance video with studio version audio. It’s not going to match, two completely different timings. Whether it be in pinball, or another use, you can be 99.9% sure, that it won’t match up.

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