I also have the node board 10 issue. Ramp died in the middle of a game. I can't see anything burned, but have not pulled the board yet. It's an April 26 build, which I saw someone else had the same build date and problem. No ferrite that I can find, but I don't see how that would have helped. Anyone else having the same issue node 10 issue add have any particular mods. Shaker Motor, Pinwoofer etc? I am new to this so go easy on me.

Sorry if I am posting this in the wrong place, but still getting the hang of Pinside. I have been moding the audio on my Rush Prem and have added the pinwoofer kit, which makes a world of change. I have also added a separate floor standing woofer, which is almost overkill since I cant find just the right setting. I have been playing with the music and callout settings or attenuation. Am I correct that it appears that the effects are actually on the music channel? It would be nice to adjust, music, callouts and effects separately, but I don't know if Stern has considered that. There seems to be a lot of distorting bass that are in the effects that effect the quality of the music. Let me know if I am missing something and possibly a better way to get clearer audio.

Thanks this is a great idea. I will try it out and see if ti resolves the issue.

Node board 10 failure, again. Had a node 1o board failure a month ago and stern replaced it and all seemed good. Just noticed tonight the the ramp wan not raising and thought no not again. Rebooted the machine and yep, got the node 10 board error. Pretty disappointing since last time it took a month to get a new board.

Fried node 10 board. Just replaced about a month ago, but the other one was not this obvious. Something strange going on here. I think one of the stepper motors might be the actual issue. If others are having similar issues, please post if you have any mods in place. Stern is going to replace the node 10 board again. Probably will fry again soon, since I don't see their logic. Insert Definition of insanity here. I was on .97 code when I installed the replacement board.

Fried Node 10 pic 2 (resized).png

Beelzeboob, Did you board also show burn marks? If so, was it near C9.

Pinwoofer, Stern Shaker Motor

Godzilla Prem/LE and Rush Prem/LE both have node 10 boards and I have not heard of node 10 issues with Godzilla. Looking at the manual on both, Godzilla is not using the CN3 connector. The CN3 connector is right next to where my board burnt. Need to see what CN3 is feeding.

Have a new node 10 board on the way and Stern insists that the .97 code has fixed the issue. They say that you need to have .97 code installed before replacing the node 10 board. I personally think that there is something up with the stepper motor on the ramp, but I'm going to try Sterns suggestions. If it burns again, then maybe replace the motor too. The distributor said they are seeing this issue a lot. I find it interesting that Godzilla Prem and LE have the same node 10 board but with no known issues. But Godzilla is not using the CN3 connector that connects to the Ramp Stepper Motor on Rush Prem and LE. BTW, it was about 30 days between purchase and the first bad node 10 board and then 30 days between the replacement being installed and it blowing again. I have also found that the board is blowing on machines with mods and those with no mods. I think it will eventually get figured out. It's such a fantastic game I hate having it sit still while I'm waiting on the replacement board.

Agreed the pin woofer kit, fixes the less than optimal sound from the factory speakers. I also ran a cable to my Klipsh sub and it makes playing the game such a better experience.

Rush Prem is my first Pin I have owned, so I am also new to working with a Pinball company such as Stern. I have had my game for 2/12 months, with 1 month of down time due to Node 10 board failures. I am not that peeved with the failure, but more with Sterns warranty process and their lack of engagement of when your warranty part will be delivered. They are quick at giving a warranty claim, but after that your absolutely ghosted, until the part magically arrives. Why cant we get periodic emails updating us on the status of the claim and tracking numbers when the part ships. Is this asking to much? Do the other PB companies such as JJ and American Pinball act the same way? Once again, I'm new so I'm more curious than anything else. The company I work for bends over backwards for our customers. Maybe I'm expecting too much.

I turned the game off while waiting for my replacement board, since the time machine is such a large part of the game. I guess one option would be seeing if you could get the ramp to stay in the up position and then it might still be playable. I'll let someone else chime in if this a possibility, wise and how it might be accomplished. My first board took about 2 weeks to arrive and it's been two weeks since I received a warranty claim for the second one. Sure wish I could get a tracking number or know if the part has even shipped yet.

Node 10 Sage Continues.
Since I have had quite a bit of down time while I wait for me replacement board, I spent a little time looking at both node 10 boards that have fried and also compared to others who have posted images. It is definitely frying on the chip labeled TMC5041-LA on the bottom left of the board, above CN3 and it is frying in pin positions 31 "GNDA" and 30 "VSA". According to the manufacture of the chip they provide advice regarding how to protect against ESD events. The following is from the manufactures website.

https://www.digikey.com/htmldatasheets/production/1783477/0/0/1/tmc5041-datasheet.html?utm_adgroup=xGeneral&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Dynamic%20Search_EN_Product&utm_term=&utm_content=xGeneral&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1-yXgpqa-QIVlIjICh0c0wkYEAAYASAAEgJlKvD_BwE

3.5Driver Protection and EME Circuitry

Some applications have to cope with ESD events caused by motor operation or external influence. Despite ESD circuitry within the driver chips, ESD events occurring during operation can cause a reset or even a destruction of the motor driver, depending on their energy. Especially plastic housings and belt drive systems tend to cause ESD events. It is best practice to avoid ESD events by attaching all conductive parts, especially the motors themselves to PCB ground, or to apply electrically conductive plastic parts. In addition, the driver can be protected up to a certain degree against ESD events or live plugging / pulling the motor, which also causes high voltages and high currents into the motor connector terminals. A simple scheme uses capacitors at the driver outputs to reduce the dV/dt caused by SD events. Larger capacitors will bring more benefit concerning ESD suppression, but cause additional current flow in each chopper cycle, and thus increase driver power dissipation, especially at high supply voltages. The values shown are example values – they might be varied between 100pF and 1nF. The capacitors also dampen high frequency noise injected from digital parts of the circuit and thus reduce electromagnetic emission. A more elaborate scheme uses LC filters to de-couple the driver outputs from the motor connector. Varistors in between of the coil terminals eliminate coil overvoltage caused by live plugging. Optionally protect all outputs by a varistor against ESD voltage.

It's interesting how they refer to belt drive systems. Is there a possibility that certain machines off the line may not be grounded correctly? Maybe a static charge building from the belt and improper grounding of the stepper motor causing the board to fry?

It's been a while since I looked at electric schematics, so if someone out there is a pro, please see what you think. In the mean time, I going to open the hood and take a look at all the cables from the ramp stepper motor to the CN3 connector.

And there's the possibility that I'm 100% wrong.

Fried Node 10 pic 2 (resized).png

Node 10 Chip (resized).PNG

node 10 (resized).jpg

On or Off and other simple questions. When you pin(s) are not being played do you leave them on or turn them off? What about power strips or power conditioners, yes or no and if yes, what is your preference?

Just got an update on my node 10 board. On backorder. Been waiting 3 weeks. Was told warranty claims are top priorty once they arrive.

Found this on EBAY a while back, a back stage pass. The good old days.

Rush BSP1 (resized).jpg

Rush BSP2 (resized).jpg

I agree with you 100%. Being in manufacturing myself, you normally order parts with the expectation that not all will be good. So if you are producing 2000 of something, you order X percentage over to cover defects. I know Stern is going through the same supply chain issues as the rest of us, so I giving them a pass for now. It's just a bit frustrating to have the game pretty much unplayable without the part. I guess the up side is it has a low total game count and I've learned a lot in the process of trying to diagnose the problem. Still testing all the cables and grounds.

Yea, I'm new to this since this is my first pin. Sad to hear this is has been an ongoing thing. I'm just amazed that they ghost their customers on eta's of when parts will be available and no tracking numbers once they do ship something. At least if you tell me it's going to be 3 months before I can get a part, I will have an expectation on what to do. Not to mention if the part just shows up without you knowing, it might get porch pirated.

How hard is it to install the ninja scoop protectors? I purchased them and have not got around to installing. Is it wise to lay down Mylar at the same time? Are there pros and cons to Mylar?

I thought about doing that for the topper. That's really cool. Need a way to get them to bobble in unison during game play. Anybody thought about using a drumstick for the shooter knob?

Is it normal for there to a whistling sound coming from the speakers when the game it is not being played.

I asked this previously, but didn't get a response. When the game is on and at rest, do you hear a hissing or humming sound. I am not referring to the fan. I know older machines tend to do this, just wondering if it is normal. The sound embedded frequency looks to be around 8,000Hz. Just want to make sure this isn't associated to a ground issue. I did add a pinwoofer kit to it, but I believe it was there before the addition.

Kudos to Pin Woofer support, especially Dan. Posted a question on their website and had an email a few minutes later and they also posted to my question here. I'm sure I'll probably get a tracking number on the part I bought today, wink wink. BTW, I do not have sensitive hearing since I have been listening to rush since 1980 as loud as I can handle. The pinwoofer kit really makes the game.

Is the ramp working? Both Ramp and Clock use Node 10. Clock is connected to node 10 on the CN1 connector. Run the node board test to make sure it is finding node 10.

Anyone waiting for a node 10 board have one arrive yet? I've been waiting 4 weeks. Really sucks.

What cable did you unplug that fried the board? Was it a connector directly on the node 10 board? I'm still trying to get to the bottom of the node 10 failures. Can you see if the chip labeled TMC5041-LA is what fried? It right above the CN1 and CN3 connectors.node 10 tmc5041la (resized).jpg

Here's an example of the issue. You will notice that the black gound cable is not seated propery in the connector. It should be even with the green connector. WARNING. Do not addresss this issue with the power on.

Bad pin in cable harness (resized).jpg

Yes, after 5 weeks it mysteriously showed up. Stepper motors were supposed to be with it, but they weren't. I went ahead and installed the board after checking every ground. Each previously burned board lasted about 30 days. I also added a $200 power conditioner just to be guaranteed it's getting good clean power. I have a friend who is very knowledgeable with circuit boards and is currently inspecting the board. I would find it unusual that it's the node 10 board itself, since so many machines have had multiple failures. Has anyone had a board replaced and the problem went away for good?

Anyone have the instructions for installing the shooter lane fix. I recall hearing it's like a 30 second fix, but it look like the right diverted might need to be removed.

I noticed that the drum clock is not moving, but does illuminate. Went into maintenance mode and it has a tech warning to check switch 62 Drum Clock Home. I'm one with the multiple Node 10 failures so I'm curious if this is the beginning of a failure. Is switch 62 located inside the drum clock? Any suggestions?

Tested the clock in maintenance mode and it rattles very load as it turns.

Of course switch 62 is inside the drum clock. Clock surgery coming up.

Agreed. The Ninja Camp mod for the shooter lanes fixes the problem. An A+ mod. A bit of gratitude to all the modders that help make all the pins more enjoyable. I appreciate the time and effort you make.

Anyone having issues with the game rebooting from time to time? I have not had it happen during game play, but noticed a few times when is on and not being played, that it re-boots.

Stern indicated that it might be an insider connected issue. I just had new internet service installed and didn't connect the game to it and the old service is now disconnected. I have connected to the new access point and will see if the issue persists.

I found this issue to be related to switch 62, drum clock home. Mine was erroring as soon as I sent into maintenance mode. We removed the clock, took it apart, no noticeable issues. Reinstalled the clock and still had weird issues, where sometimes it would not move at all. Unplugged the machine, opened it up and it seemed like the CN5 connector was a little loose. Unplugged, replugged the CN5 connector, plugged the game back in and it's worked perfectly since. The CN5 has a funky expansion board on it. The expansion board doesn't seem to fit real well, but I think this was put in in place of the ferrite bead that was previously used. Remember this is the Node 10 board, do everything with the power off.

That's funny. I have pinwoofer installed too and it makes a world of difference. Just really maximines the experience and their support is fantastic. I have a shaker installed too, so it's easy for things to come loose.

I had almost the same exact thing happen. I was suspicious of the home switch, which is of course inside the clock. Took the clock apart and no apparent issues. When I contacted Stern they said to check the lock screw to make sure it had not come off, since the clock was actually ratteling when I would try to adjust it. The clock works now after re-install, but to your point maybe the power cycle caused it to start working again. Another Node 10 mystery. Maybe malfunctioning stepper motor?

I've seen similar issues after installing .98

Seems like they could farm out accessories to a third party and still get a cut.

Anyone still seeing clock issues after the 1.0 upgrade. I was hoping they would resolve the issue with the new code. Clock randomly stops. If you reboot the pin it then works again for a while.

I have had 2 node 10 failures and did a load of research of what might be cauising it. You might look at my previous post 8809. Stern had some conenctor cable issues when pins were not seated correctly in the wiring harness. Both times the board went out I was about 30 days in. I have since added a power backup conditioner and I am about 6 weeks in since the last node replacement.I have stepper motors on the way to try to eliminate all possibilities. Look and make sure the node 10 board didnt fry. It allways on the chip labeled TMC2041-LA. Chip is on the lower part of the board between CN1 and CN3. It normally burns the chip where the letters LA are not visable.

Dang, you've been waiting forever. Any chance you can get a closer shot of the TMC5041-LA chip. Your's looks like it fried in a different place then I have seen in all the other pics. Sorry, this has kind of become an obsession. I bought a APC power conditioner, when I installed the lastest board and so far I have been good for about 6 weeks. Probably just cursed myself. There has to be a common denominator between the problem machines with node 10 failures. I's not a bad batch of boards, since the build dates very a lot. I'm a bit suspicious of the add on extension board that took the place of the ferrite beads. I have a shaker and pin woofer kit, so I know it gets more than it's fair share of vibration. I'm also turning the game off when it's not being played.

Thanks for the pics. I have not seen one with this kind of damage. So far my new board is lasted 7 weeks, the longest yet. I did add a power backup conditioner that the games is plugged into now. I think the board issue is voltage related, but not necessarily from the AC outlet. I was just be extra cautious with the backup / power conditioner. Double check all cables going to the node 10 board, before applying power.Don't forget the dip switch settings.

What the easiest way to replace the ramp bumper pads? The blue thingys. I have the replacements and I see a crack in the original blue ones.

The new code apparently did not fix the clock issue, Anyone else seeing the same thing. The clock works intermittently.