(Topic ID: 308430)
Linked Games
Rush (LE)
Stern, 2022-
Rush (Premium)
Stern, 2022
-
Rush (Pro)
Stern, 2022
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Auburn, NH
Quoted from mbl1116:Sorry, This may have been debatable a decade or so ago, but vinyl can’t touch digital now with lossless audio streaming
And this is coming from someone who still buys and listens to records. I understand personal preference plays a role, but there is no longer a “quality” argument
As for pinball, I’m on a premium list and it’s looking really good so far
It's fair to all have our opinions. Personally, I like the slowdown of life when I listen to vinyl. Clean the record, hit it with the Zerostat, place on the turntable, brush the needle, enjoy side one. Then cocktail time while you are preparing side two. Enjoy side two. Life is too hectic, vinyl takes it back a bit.
Soooo looking forward to my Premium.
Quoted from mbl1116:Absolutely. All that matters is that you enjoy it. We inherited a large collection of vinyls that i never fully went through.. time to check for some Rush
Any word on when to expect Premiums to hit the line?
Premiums typically last in line. But hopefully April. This will be my first NIB.
Rush on vinyl is typically not recorded phenomenally. My Exit Stage Left is horrible. I couldn't finish side one. My system tends to be fairly detailed sounding. And can bring out the not so best as well.
1 month later
Premium is in da house. My first NIB. So far I'm loving it. 2nd gen scoop forks which I mylared prior to first ball. .89 code installed from factory. March 1st build date. Played half dozen games and just updated to .91. Smooth flow, fast, and the music.........well it's RUSH!!!!!
20220324_165527 (resized).jpg20220324_193711 (resized).jpg20220324_200817 (resized).jpgQuoted from gandamack:Was there zero mylar there before? Or did you put mylar on more mylar? I am trying to figure out what to do once mine comes home.
Thanks
Mine had zero mylar on that scoop.
Quoted from gandamack:Thank you for the beautiful photos of your new Premium. I see you put down appx three mylar strips near the scoop. It looks like the mylar goes over the wood and the metal fork in one strip? I guess my question is why to put mylar over the metal fork? Is that the normal way to lay this stuff down? Sorry, if my question is beyond basic, but I am trying to figure all this stuff out. Thx.
Probably the better solution is to remove the protector and mylar under it into the scoop opening. I wanted to play my game upon setup and didn't exactly want to do a partial topside teardown to mylar. I chose to mylar over the metal protector into the scoop opening.
Quoted from J-drum11:Has anyone figured out the top of the shooter lane thing?
Is it the silver ramp that’s causing it not to run around smooth sometimes?
I make adjustments with the legs and level things out but I’m still not getting every ball to shoot perfectly around without banging something on the way up
I'm running into issues with this as well. Whether I hand plunge or use the auto plunger, it's just not a smooth transition up the lane into the corner. I did adjust my shooter rod to center it in the groove, but that hasn't made a difference. Not sure whats causing the "bobble".
Quoted from schudel5:Anyone else getting the ball stuck on the ramp here at the top of the flap? The V notch catches a slow ball whether the ramp is up or down and you have to shake it hard enough to tilt to get it off. I have no idea why there's a V there because a straight across cut on that flap wouldn't hit the ramp when it goes up or down. Ball search moving the ramp does nothing to knock it loose.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I've had it happen a couple of times. And yes, you have to tilt to break it free.
Quoted from upsfeedr:Looking to buy new pinballs I see the Ninja balls and I see that Polaris pinball carbon steel are also available. Any input n the Pinball Balls.
Thanks.
The Ninja balls don't work as well with a magnet. I just bought of bunch of the Polaris balls. They look nice and work very well. I put the Polaris in my Rush in place of the stock balls.
Just installed my ninja camp TPU protector.. Very straight forward install, fits very well and looks great. Initial 1st couple games, and it works awesome. No twang due to hitting forks. I put the posts on 3/4 inch lexan washers and it worked perfect.
20220408_194417 (resized).jpg20220408_203542 (resized).jpg20220408_204219 (resized).jpgQuoted from CUJO:I have a question about the Ninja scoop protector which looks awesome BTW.
Those who have installed them, do they move at all during play during random ball contact since they are so lightweight?
Would it benefit the install to put a peel and stick tape on the two front edges to prevent movement and lifting during play?
Like Cliffy does with his scoop and switch edge protectors to keep them securely in place?
I haven't noticed any movement on mine. The posts and washers hold it securely in place.
Quoted from usafstars:epeabs, glad you picked one up. I was in such a hurry to get mine installed I didn’t use the washers and haven’t seen any movement either. I might go back and put them in when I install their VUK protector.
Just got on the list for the Vukbill protector. The washers worked real well and don't interfere with the ball at all.
Quoted from onemilemore:Which washers are you all using with the Ninja protector? Would like to add some to an order soon. Thanks!
Mine came from Titan pinball. 3/4 inch clear. https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=134
1 week later
Quoted from CrashJT:The advisory says "all numbers before 330402C" but that's probably an educated guess. My machine is several hundred past that number, and I had the old switch setup. Again, machine built 3/4/22 but playfield dated 2/9/22. If you stick you phone in there on selfie mode, to the left side behind the node board, that's where the date is on mine. t's easy to tell with your playfield up, just look at the side scoop of your premium/le and you either have the squared off edge connected on the left by 2 screws, or the angular (45°) metal attached by one screw on each side with a foot screwed into the playfield on the right. Pictures of both below and one of the advisory from https://sternpinball.com/support/rush-kits/
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I'm about a 100 past that serial number listed. My game was built March 1st, but my switch is the old version.
1 week later
I've installed the updated side scoop switch on my Premium and it works great. Also just installed NinjaCamps vuk protector with the back portion. Very straightforward and simple installation. The installation of the rear portion I did find a bit trickier but I loosened the piece of plastic to give a bit more flex. Before I put it all back together I made a clear plastic cover to go over the inner loop lane. I definitely think that has improved the switch registering. The piece of felt I had tried did not do the trick. The vuk, not that it was noisy before, but it is super quiet now, and have not had a single kickback from it.
20220424_153638 (resized).jpg20220424_153642 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from JohnnyTucson:Which shaker motor did you install? I have seen a Rev C version (pbl-100-0020-00) and a Factory Authorized kit for Spike / Spike 2 (502-5027-01)... wondering which one is best to buy...
I used the Pinball Life model since the Stern one was out of stock. Mine works awesome and is well integrated as well.
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from SterlingRush:Per PBL’s pages under their shooter springs:
Spring tension from lowest to highest:
Blue (266-5001-05)
Green (266-5001-04)
Standard (10-148-1)
Orange (266-5001-07)
Purple (266-5001)
Gray/Silver (266-5001-14)
Red (10-148-2)
For anyone that is interested in trying these out. I’ve got the orange currently in there and feels good. I also picked up the purple to try if needed, and a red if I wanted to go extreme. I’d have to look, but I think green came on my machine originally, which is a step down from the standard spring.
I'm running an Orange that I had as a backup and it works better than the stock green.
1 month later
I just installed Ninjacamps initial inner loop fix on my shooter lane. Since doing so, with many soft plunges, I have not had one shooter lane ball issue since installation. To me, this fix works very well for the ball wobble issue. It clips onto the left wire form just prior to the shooter lane entering the playfield. Its a bit hard to see from the picture.
20220701_153914 (resized).jpg 1 month later
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:No offense to any mod makers, but if you correct the shooter positioning, this mod is not needed. I repositioned mine and have had zero plunger issues since. It seems a lot of these come misaligned. Just one of those quirks from hand build products.
I had shooter lane "wobble" from day one. I centered my shooter rod after I realized it was not in the correct position. It made no difference to the "wobble" whatsoever. I ended up installing Ninja Camps "Inner Loop Assist & Soft Plunge Corrector" and I haven't had a "wobble" since.
3 months later
Quoted from kempsuk:Hi Rush Fans
Can you help me out understand the ramp diverter. I hit the lockdown button when its red which I believe should change the ramp diverter, but nothing happens. The red domes on left and right side do switch when I hit the lockdown button, but the diverter itself does not move at all.
In diags > test > coil > ramp diverter does work, and test out OK.
What am I missing with this... thoughts??
Thank you
I believe the diverter doesn't physically move until you go up the ramp, then it switches.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Gabpower:After 1000 games my pinballs seem a bit rough with a few spots on them. I was about to order some but just read that some balls are not made for games with magnets because they'll get magnetized fast.
Some are chrome, some are carbon steel...
Any general recommendations for a Rush Pro?
These work great. I installed these on my Premium before pulled the plunger for the first time. https://ballbaron.com/product/pinball-carbon/
2 months later
This game is incredible. I have been a Rush fan since my early teens and seen them live half a dozen times. This game has great flow, music and style. I've had the game since April 2022 and still haven't broken 489M. Damn.... The game is leveled left to right and set at 7.5 pitch, but man, those left and right drains just plain kill me. I even have my slings powered down to like 14, and it still loves to rebound off the slings and side drain. Maybe I just plain suck. I don't know, very frustrating.
Quoted from Vespula:Interesting. There must be something going on, I don't feel like everything is side draining. The game has it's moments but no more than center drain.
I found if I can time it right and forward nudge and repeat nudge front to back fast that I can bounce the ball between the out lane rubber and the post rubber multiple times and I can often work the ball back to the in lane without tilting or even getting a warning, if I get the forward nudging motion going at the right time and just enough to jockey the ball away from that outlane.
It's right to left nudge that rocks the tilt bob the most and when Alex tells me to stop it!
The other thing is that I didn't do any leveling. Just plug in and play.
The leg bolts are all the way in, my floors are hard maple and level. I do have the back legs on some furniture sliders for easy moving, and helps absorb and soften my ability for nudging too I suppose, but nothing on the front so there will be some elevation in the back from those sliders.
These
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Sliders-4-Round-Furniture-Caster-Cup-Plastic-for-Hardwood-Brown-4-Pack/16782131
[quoted image]
I tend not to nudge too much as it always seems like I do more harm than good. But that could also mean I just need more practice at it. But the side drains I see most often is back and forth off the slings and then drilling it into either outlane. No time to nudge those whatsoever.
Quoted from dzorbas:Drop your outlane posts and adjust your tilt bob a bit so you have more freedom to nudge. To me, it's not about blowing the game up and putting up billions. It would just be nice to get to some of the modes that require you to complete more stuff in the game.
Same goes for my SW, MET and IMDN. I'm not talking about setting them up super easy or setting them to 5 or 10 balls or anything crazy. They are all set to competition mode, no ramdomness, 3 balls, default ball save timers and extra balls. I've had some of these games for 3 or 4 years now and have not gotten to certain wizard modes yet.
When you do have that epic game and see some stuff you've never seen before you get a certain satisfaction and it keeps bringing you back to try and do it again. I have friends that own Deadpool that say "Oh, I beat the game multiple times", like it's so simple. As much as I like DP, I don't want my pins to be that easy. Kinda takes some of the fun out of it.
And for those waiting on expression lighting and toppers, I've been told by a reliable source that their release is imminent. You have to understand that Stern's focus is going to be on releasing new games (hello Foo Fighters) rather than accessories...
I have my top posts tightened into the lowest position and have even tried removing my lower post rubber to prevent as much bouncing back and forth. It doesn't seem to help.
Maybe I will trying lessening my pitch as well. And then, practice, practice, practice.
Well, I have lowered the pitch of the game to 6.5 and have installed one size larger post rubbers at left and right outlanes. I had my second best game today at 419M. Everyone has their own thoughts when it comes to outlane adjustments, difficulty settings, etc., but I would prefer a bit more of some longer ball times to make it more enjoyable for me. I think the changes I made today have helped in my eyes.
I just installed my NinjaCamp spinner exit adjuster last night. It makes a world of difference. Every shot through the spinner now exits properly without kicking back out and exiting under the spinner. What a great, simple mod.
3 weeks later
I've been "beta" testing these for several months. They look the bomb, and work great. When the machine is off or they are not blinking, they have a grayish ghost look to them. And they're super bright when they are lit. Buy with confidence.
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from John_I:Yeah the kit seems to come with an extra one. The instructions are hard to follow for the ferrite cores, but no matter how I looked at it there was an extra one.
I believe I ended up with a large and a small extra. Works good so far. I will double check to make sure i didn't miss one somewhere.
1 week later
Quoted from Vespula:Hey I'm about to embark on installing expression lights and I want to pull out the playfield since everybody says it's easy and makes things simpler.
So looking underneath I see you the big flex loom cable that has the big connection and two smaller connections which are no problem but the other one is along ethernet cable that connects into the back box.
Am I correct that I've got to cut all the zip ties and remove that from the flex loom and the Backbox board? It runs all around the underside of the playfield so that's way too much work compared to taking out of the flex loom, but I just wasn't prepared for this I thought it was just three simple connections. So I thought I'd check with the collective here.
And it never mind I just did it. That's the right answer., It's The only way. Got to pull that ethernet cable out plus the three connections then the playfield is free
I just disconnected the ethernet cable from the board under the playfield. Snipped the wire ties only to the section where the connectors are. And the playfield lifts right out.
20230602_214226 (resized).jpg20230602_214221 (resized).jpg20230602_214215 (resized).jpg20230602_214615 (resized).jpg20230602_214620 (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
Quoted from leeoneil:Hello !
Is anyone have a picture of the wiring for the Expression light on a rush ?
Because the manual is showing a "Led Zep eXpression" example, and the 2 boards are not similar (one more plug on the right one).
Is it normal to have the 2 boards like these please ?
[quoted image]
Here the wire black/green/red goes directly from the left to the right board with only one plug.
On the example in the manual, there is 2 plug going on the right board.
Thank's for your help !
Here is a picture of mine from my recent install.
20230602_224509 (resized).jpg 5 months later
Quoted from Vespula:Never had this ball stuck before. Had to pull the glass[quoted image]
I had one ball get stuck in the same spot. I added a post, since there was even a hole in the plastic to put a screw.
20220509_193822 (resized).jpg20220522_145755 (resized).jpgPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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