Quoted from upsfeedr:

what product did you use to connect your ext subwoofer?

Quoted from mbl1116:

Alright i have to ask, bc I also consider home theater to be somewhat of a hobby.
I’ve never heard of changing a speakers impedance using a simple menu setting like this. The speakers are rated at 8ohms for a reason I’d think. By lowering impedance to 4ohms you’re lowering resistance and drawing more power from what already seems to be an insufficient amp.
So maybe an audio expert can explain whats happening here and if this is really a good idea?

Quoted from beelzeboob:

LZ had good sound out of the box. But the Pinwoofer system took it to the next level. I don't know what it is about Rush, but the backbox ohm setting was wrong and was distorted. When I changed it to 4 ohms, it sounded better but never got loud enough to be a REAL Rush game. With Pinsound, you have to turn it down so your ears aren't ringing after a session of playing.
My wife has my balls in her purse, so I guess it's not really blowing my balls off after all.

Quoted from Craiger:

The spinner is one of the more satisfying shots for me. I almost don't mid missing the right ramp if I pound the spinner.
I do find that most of my spinner shots end up then going around and UP into the orbit rather than down to the upper flipper. I don't know how this could possibly happen within the confines of known physics, but it does. Anyone else having this happen? Waiting for the ball to drift down to the upper flipper does give me a much needed pause sometimes, but is this as the game was designed, or do I need to adjust the guides right after the spinner?

Quoted from J-drum11:

I went through that also
Actually my sticker came off the first couple games I played in the machine I stuck it on and it stayed ever since

Quoted from DrDQ:

Anyone doing anything about the inside loop switch not registering on a frequent basis? Bending the switch metal? Something else?
I guess an opto there would have been better.

Quoted from Schwaggs:

Anyone else try enabling physical locks for the scoops? Whenever I do, it resisters the ball is locked and serves up a new ball but when you drain the second ball, it doesn’t register, goes through ball search then launches the ball out of the scoop.
This is on .89. Anyone else seeing this or do I have a problem with my machine?

Quoted from joetechbob:

I don't recall mine doing this. Bad switch?

Quoted from swampfire:

My L/R lower flippers are set to 225, and this shot (and all others) are still make-able.

Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

I first enabled this adjustment in .89 and have never experienced a ball search. I probably only have 5 or so games on .90 though, but a ton on .89.
The only ball searches I’ve ever had are when the ball occasionally gets caught on the top lip of the time machine ramp when it is raised. There is no way to nudge it out without tilting. That’s something I’d like to figure out how to fix, maybe by loosening and pushing the ramp mech closer to the time machine.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Is "Extra Ball" not working on the upper scoop a known bug? In my RUSH temp test the other day, I hit the lit extra ball scoop a number of times and it did not collect. The behind the upper right flipper one worked, just the one for the scoop didn't seem to.

Quoted from gsrogers:

Following up on my post saying my LE will not connect to my home internet. I tried rebooting a few times and changing the USB plug the dongle is in. Still failing to connect. It sees the router but just wont connect. I am not sure what the details of my router are.....I am with Comcast.
I find it strange it can see my router but not connect. Other devices like Ipad, Iphones, connect no problem. Any tips?

Quoted from Schwaggs:

.

The upper scoop switch is awefully touchy to get setup to register reliably. I can’t get physical locks to work without it. I wonder if that’s the same problem with extra ball on yours

Quoted from gouveia:

It’s supposed to be a ball lock for more than one ball. You can see it working on the Pre/LE trailer but it’s not programmed for that right now. I don’t know why, but I think it’s a virtual lock until it’s coded correctly.

Quoted from J-drum11:

You can turn it on but , it’s not recommended and really out of sync with things. Was told to keep off for now

Quoted from Boslaw:

Yes, I realized that after my rant Swapped the switches and started up a new game. Half way through my high score, the machine froze, all lights and music shut off. FML!
I can't upgrade the code because every time I scan my QR the game says "This game is not registered" even though I did register the game online yesterday.
I've been waiting for this to arrive for months. Just cranky that it hasn't gone smoothly. Now I need to wait until Monday to talk to someone at Stern about my registration.

Quoted from Av8:Same. 8.5 GB! Lots of Audio and Video in the code I suppose. I could only get to 18% and it would stop. Is the wifi dongle the issue?
.90 made Far Cry multiball way harder. And reduced flipper strength slightly.
My humorous Call outs are set to frequent. Hilarious imo.

Quoted from ian866:

That's confusing, they are advocating using a cat5 connection is this video as a solution to poor wifi ?
[quoted image]

Quoted from manadams:

The time machine will catch the ball with the magnet and instead of throwing it to the back of the game it throws it directly down the middle of your flippers.

Quoted from Gryszzz:

Finally got legs on her. First thing that blew me away was the amazing ass backglass...WOW. Not sure if it's an "actual" mirrored BG but there's an actual fucking mirror in it that is just gorgeous.
The second thing I noticed was where the tabs on the protectors bend down, there's a sharp point on each edge on mine.
Third thing I noticed is the mylar I bought a couple years ago seems to be circular magnet mylar for my MET.
Can I cut that up and use that? Cause I'm about to. Not gonna press play till I put mylar down. Can I get that at a craft store?
FUCKIN CHEERS!

Quoted from Gryszzz:

Is there a way to turn on attract mode tunes?

Quoted from PinMonk:

I have no doubt that it will get all this worked out. It's just that it *feels* less like RUSH is in 0.90 condition compared to, say, Godzilla, which is on 0.93 and feels way more polished and has for a couple releases. RUSH shouldn't still be losing track of balls at 0.90.

Quoted from Kez11:

Thank you very much for the responses, and the direct links. I'm trying to get up to speed here, but it's tough to digest in one or two readings.
Did you source your own micro switch replacement, and have you shared that source? I know you mentioned that Stern is working on it, but I'm never sure exactly what that means. My distributor tells me to contact Stern, and Stern tells me to get with my distributor, so it's never clear who is actually doing anything with some of these fixes (ie: the scoop protector fiasco).
Thank you again. I'll keep reading.

Quoted from jpc211245:

Is there a trick to getting the mylar to stick to the wood inside the scoop?

Quoted from MooButt:

Any of you guys know where I can get replacement scoop optos in a timely fashion? My opto boards pooped out after only 3 days and I’ve been down for the last week.

Quoted from Boslaw:

My machine has started randomly triggering the hoot ball save throughout games (eyes light up and I can hear solenoid click, then eyes turn off - nothing else happens)
Any idea what could cause this?

Quoted from Boslaw:

Not that. It's happening all the time now. Probably some switch triggering or a short (hopefully not a short). I'll try what someone above suggested - switch test while banging on the machine to see if I can trigger it again. It's happening now every few seconds throughout the game.
My ramp is also acting funky. Sometimes it will be up, then I'll hear a call out that the time machine is ready. Then the ramp lowers, waits a second, and raises again.

Quoted from kool1:

But the guy said it was a "top priority"

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

I changed as soon as I read about it reverting to default. No issues, any idea why stern did this?

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Quick shoutout for Gameroom Mods, I love the dice lights! Just the right size so they're subtle but present. Great improvement over plain stock bulbs!
[quoted image]

Quoted from PinMonk:

A nitpick, because dice are absolutely what both of those lights should have been from the factory and this is an improvement as-is, but I wish they'd mount them to the light at angles so they impart a sense of motion. Mounting them flat just looks boring.

Quoted from Wizrdofwor:

My technical issue is consistent rapid wear on right catapult bumper. The rubber wears out in just two weeks. The wear is on the corner impact. I have no unusual wear anywhere else. I have replaced this O Ring FOUR times already.
I use 2” Rubber O Ring. An added frustration is that the playing surface gets very grimy with all this rubber breaking off in such a short time.
Any advice?[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from WeirPinball:

Also, do all the le's need the scoop switch replaced?

Quoted from Chazulli:

After updating to 0.97, I've seen some interesting behavior and wanted to ask if this is expected.
The new code now has the SIDE SCOOP LOCKS BALLS set to always, which is a change from previous versions. However, I've noticed that when I have a ball locked in the side scoop and drain the current ball, the machine won't end the turn. Instead, it will enter ball search, eject the ball from the side scoop and allow me to continue playing. This greatly extends the turn, but perhaps this is expected?
Also, there have been several cases when it seems that the ball locked in the side scoop will be ejected while playing another ball, starting a pseudo multi-ball, but not the Far Cry multiball. I can then lock the ball back into the side scoop, or just finish playing the two balls.
Has anyone else seen this behavior?

Quoted from zebpin61:

I installed the gameroommods yesterday - the time machine and dice over each scoop - look very good. I'm very pleased with both. Also picked up the pinmonk insert color films to help with mode clarity. Other than that, I don't plan to mod RUSH much more. It already seems visually busy/exciting for me. Expression lighting is high on my list and then I think I'm done. Everybody has their own preferences, I a bit of a minimalist on RUSH: I do so enjoy this game!

Quoted from Nstone4425:

Just watched their video they really did a good job on this mod.

Quoted from dannunz:

Has anyone made a plastic piece to stop air balls around the loop from the upper flipper? I’m only getting loops to register 50% of the time due to the ball catching air

Quoted from texas_compadre:

Mine is registering 100% of the time with the stock switch now that I have the switch working as it should and interfaced properly with the game. I hope everyone finds a fix that works for them - I just wanted to make the point that the "airball" theory is incorrect - that's not what's causing the problem.

Quoted from Big_Whoopin:

VisitorQ, the thread with more info on the available switches although I'd bet everything mounted through the Rush playfield would match the "universal" switch.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mampm-creations-mrs-catalog

Quoted from jonboy71:

Are all NIB Stern products this bad? I bought it to play, not have to install 3rd party parts and worry about boards blowing. I understand some adjustments and routine maintenance should be expected, but it seems to me proper testing at Stern would have manifested and sorted out these problems before full production. We'd all be having a better experience. I don't think that's asking a lot for a product at this price point. Is there a lemon law in the pinball world?

Quoted from H3XAG0N:

Bad news, putting the furniture felt in this lane did not make a difference. I tried: felt on just left side, felt on just right side, and felt on both sides. Nothing stopped or decreased the occurrence of rejections to the spinner lane. In fact, a few times it seemed worse. I wondering now if what we actually need is a geometry change here. Something like this?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Of course the drawing is a bit of an exaggeration to prove the concept, but i feel like this could prevent that bounce from coming back up towards the gate.
I have a 3d printer, but not TPU filament to test this. Time to summon the experts! OutpostKodelia

Quoted from wcbrandes:

anyone have the right hand side pop bumper stick down? Have not taken a good look at it yet but thought perhaps an inherent problem mentioned somewhere before? cheers

Quoted from Fussa71:

I’m not sure if this issue has been addressed here, but on a fast shot up the Rush ramp (when diverting to the left) the ball is flying of the left ramp and onto the playfield. Could be a leveling issue.
Anyone else deal with this?

Quoted from Boslaw:

I just don't understand this take at all. You (maybe not you personally, but people in general) would not accept this with any other product you buy, especially at these prices. I have re-finished and cleared a completely trashed playfield myself. My clear job came out better and smoother than this brand new playfield. Sure, I spent a lot more time and labor on it, but theirs is mass produced with much better tools/tech than I have, and they have much more experience than I have.
There have been other problems with my pin. Cutting a pop bumper with a dremel to make it fit properly, replacing switches, etc. These I can sort of accept. There are a lot of moving parts on a pin and I guess I just have to accept those problems given that there are only a few pin manufacturers. But having that kind of rippling on a playfield really is in a different category. I took close ups to send to my distro, but you can 100% see the rippling while playing and you can feel it in spots with your bare hand.
I accept that I'll probably get no satisfaction on this. I acknowledge that others have this problem, and maybe worse. Still sucks. Still love the pin.

Quoted from Kez11:

Wanted to post a big "Thank You" to Jon at Gameroommods for the bonus fluorescent protector!
I had received and installed their set of protectors months ago, and suddenly in my mailbox arrives a new piece, because they added to the kit long after i got mine. THAT'S how you gain a customer for life.
Thank you, Jon!

Quoted from sepins:

I have My NIB Rush LE for sale. It is going to sell so cheap thinking about opening it and trying it as it can't get much cheaper than the $10K offer I had.
Stern sent a replacement for Trough and outhole protectors. Are the outhole protectors Stern sent sufficient to save PF or should I wait and get Ninja's?
Thanks!!!

Quoted from Ghosters:

Found this on EBAY a while back, a back stage pass. The good old days.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Ghosters:

I asked this previously, but didn't get a response. When the game is on and at rest, do you hear a hissing or humming sound. I am not referring to the fan. I know older machines tend to do this, just wondering if it is normal. The sound embedded frequency looks to be around 8,000Hz. Just want to make sure this isn't associated to a ground issue. I did add a pinwoofer kit to it, but I believe it was there before the addition.

Quoted from Gabpower:

I had the inner loop issue getting worse day after day where it registered about 1 in 5 shots.
I cleaned the whole playfield with novus 2 and wax and now it's registering 99% of the time. What's going on?

Quoted from etr104:

Here's another question. This might be more of a general Spike2 question rather than a question specifically about Rush. But on my Rush premium, my clock (and system time) keeps reverting to exactly 4 hours off of the correct time. No matter how many times I go into the settings and change the time to the correct time, upon reboot it ends up 4 hours off.
I've got my machine connected to Wifi, so I'm assuming that every time I boot the machine, the clock gets synced up with an NTP (network time) server on the Internet, however the timezone is somehow set incorrectly.
I can't find anywhere in the settings to change my timezone. Where do I go to do this??

Quoted from JookyDFW:

Hello Everyone. There is a Premium Rush machine for sale in my area and I'm thinking about buying it. But I noticed there are there are issues with the mystery scoop protector and a switch assembly for the lower side scoop. Are the fixes covered under warranty and would I be able to get them if I'm the second owner?

Quoted from Lizard_Wizard:

New Rush owner here. When I hit a clean shot to the right ramp on the fly the ball comes around very fast and often jumps off the habit rail on the return. What would be the best way to fix this?

Quoted from VisitorQ:

I am sure mine may have skipped a beat once or twice, maybe not but it seems work when I hit the repeated loop shots which is such a satisfying shot.

Quoted from snaroff:

I just installed the same switch yesterday and had the same issue. For me, the switch needed to be dialed-in by loosening the 2 screws and moving the switch as far away from the subway as possible. When it's too close, the switch activates...it's much more sensitive than other switches I've dealt with.
I'd be very surprised if the switch itself was defective...just try adjusting it. Good luck...[quoted image]

Quoted from parsonsaj:

More information... if I totally remove the microswitch from the assembly, and power up the game with it not installed, I don't get the operator alert. At that point the switch tests normally, as do the coils in the side scoop assembly. However, if I reattach the switch to the sheet metal that it mounts to, no matter how I try to bend the actuator, it seems to be stuck closed at all times and thus the operator alert... almost as if the mounting holes were put too close to the body of the scoop. Attempts to bend the tab that the switch mounts to (so it sits a bit further back from the body of the scoop assembly) have not been successful.

Quoted from Animal:

Thanks! Will do, although prior to changing to clear drop targets, there was no problem...

Quoted from SterlingRush:

One of the code updates Read Me files, broke down the changes for Home settings. I’m thinking it was 0.94 or 0.96 code release. Heading out the door, or I’d look it up.

Quoted from j_m_:

mandalorian, godzilla and rush. all 3 still do not have toppers

Quoted from VisitorQ:

Black
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from CrashJT:

What can this strange device be that I've found, when I touch it, it gives forth NO sound...
While examining the bottom of Rush, I found these. The little screw looks like the ones holding the ramp bumpers on, but all four are already there. The other thing "seems" like an LED on one side, but has 6 solder pads on the other side???? (Next to a "Magic Dime " for size comparison.) Any ideas what/ where these are???? Thank you!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from CrashJT:

I didn't persuade it. I did play pinball. Found it in front of the bass speaker if I recall

Quoted from gandamack:

A quick question regarding multiball: I was watching a youtube with Ray explaining rules. He seemed to allude there was a way to cycle through multiball choices. How is this accomplished?

Quoted from DakotaMike:

I'm glad that there are so many options to fix the inner-loop issue, and many props to the ingenuity and effort that's gone into the various solutions, but honestly it feels like we're coming up with fixes for a problem that has all ready been solved.
Just use the gameroom mods clear acrylic solution. The actual problem with the inner loop is that, due to the pf and flipper geometry on Rush, the ball gets airborne and doesn't trigger the loop switch. And the best way to keep a ball from getting airborne is to use an air ball preventer.
[quoted image]
It's the simplest of all the solutions, and I haven't heard of anyone having a single registration problem once installed. It's just an air ball preventer that keeps the ball down low enough to always trigger the switch. No need to lift the pf and swap the factory switch, and no need to ever adjust it once installed. It's invisible from the playing position, and it doesn't seem to slow the ball down at all.
Installation is dead simple and doesn't require removing anything except 2 lock nuts. It couldn't be simpler, doesn't require any messing around, and it's only $15 shipped in the US. It's a no brainer.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1167-gameroom-mods/07010-rush-upper-orbit-ball-retention-plastic
It just seems like the simplest and best solution to me.
------
That being said, mrs switches in general are really cool and have other advantages such as no ball hang-ups ever. And ninjacamp makes a lot of other great mods for Rush, anyway. I am using the ninjacamp shooter-lane rattle-fix, and their Exit Stage Left mod. I've had the ESL mod installed for over 2 months and 1000+ plays, and it's still working perfectly. Can't imagine the game without it now.

Quoted from McDoom:

I want to upgrade the speakers in Rush. What brand do you guys recommend?

Quoted from Ceckitti:

I have the inner orbit protector in my premium and i have not missed scoring a shot there since installing. AND.... it looks so clean and well cut that you have no idea it was not a factory piece. I highly recommend it.

Quoted from Apollo18:

Seconded.
it’s the best solution for the switch registering and looks like it belongs. Easy install, Can’t even see it, so clean and well cut.
GameRoom Mods are very nice people making
Great mods.

Quoted from pete_d:

Well, there's your problem.
The other people in my household would gripe endlessly if the game's auto boost for replays was enabled, or if I didn't set it to award extra balls for replay awards. On my game, by the time you got to 1 billion, you'd have four extra balls in the queue.
Yet another example of why you can't really compare scores across games. There are just too many different settings that affect scoring potential for a given player skill. My game is set for fun, not for "can I beat RayDay or Dalton Ely?" I already know I can't, never will, and frankly I also know there are plenty of other players way better than I am.

Quoted from brainmegaphone:

Curious if anyone else on here had trouble getting the Ninja Camp VUK protector to work properly? No matter how I situate it - the ball won't trigger the switch. It seems this product is just far too thick. Has anyone had similar issues?

Quoted from PinballHaven:

Well…….that sucks
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from PinballHaven:

+1 for Gameroom mods, ordered with the dice lights and Time Machine lights, installed under the upper plastic on my pro, works 100% and never any weird stalls or ball travel issues.
And he replaced a dice light that broke off very quickly, stand up guy!!

Quoted from Kez11:

So I bought the dozen clouded dice from Amazon (Thank you Vespula and CrashJT), drilled three (one for practice), put the two at the scoops like they should have been from the factory, hid one behind the Presto rabbit flasher, then I still had nine left. Hmmmmm, what to do???
I present my further tribute to Roll the Bones.
[quoted image]

Quoted from gandamack:

Which app?

Quoted from zh2oson:

So...$1,700?
Oooof.

Quoted from Vino:

Is anyone sold on the shooter rod?
Not sure about the size - has Stern made something similar to it in the past?

Quoted from kmad:

Ignorance and prejudice
And fear walk hand in hand

Quoted from Big_Whoopin:

I would work with someone stateside to buy it, examine that it is intact, repack it PROPERLY (better internal packing and an additional outer box) and ship it insured. With shipping and whatever import duties I have no idea where the final cost would fall, but might end up with better results.
For instance, just got photos from a friend (arcade owner, sales and service) that had ordered 2 from his distributor that were drop shipped directly from Stern, both topper boxes were together in one big outer box. Both packed exactly like mine, appears as though they were missing the left side and back blocks with just a minor layer of bubble wrap above. One topper still managed to get damaged. Same area as mine, but a broken gear.
[quoted image][quoted image]