(Topic ID: 308430)

RUSH Pinball Official Owners Club-“Straining the Limits of Machine and Man”

By mrossman5

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 17,884 posts
  • 714 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by Big_Whoopin
  • Topic is favorited by 356 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

PXL_20240411_225620072.MP (resized).jpg
20240410_181338 (resized).jpg
IMG_1438 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240407_184826850.MP.jpg
IMG_5558 (resized).jpeg
PNG image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_6461 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6460 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6410 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2562 (resized).jpg
IMG_2578 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2574 (resized).jpeg
20240322_163542 (resized).jpg
20240322_163631 (resized).jpg
20240319_194137 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 17,884 posts in this topic. You are on page 84 of 358.
#4151 2 years ago

Mantis Protector Update:

I've been working with Kerry the last few weeks getting this protector. Having a Metallica protector from him on hand helped facilitate the design, as the Metallica and RUSH scoops are the same size. He will be working on one for the upper scoop as well. Here are some pics of the prototype, the one he has for sale is another 1.5mm taller on the inside to come all the way up to the bevel of the hole. It is shown installed (without the scoop itself in place) in concert with the Stern Rev 2 protectors on my LE. As in the past, the best protection will probably come from a combo of different one.

FB23024B-26FE-4387-8F8A-DF9B0ACA4C8F.jpegFB23024B-26FE-4387-8F8A-DF9B0ACA4C8F.jpegC21EE044-0474-4F49-9D86-0F4F98AE5BCF.jpegC21EE044-0474-4F49-9D86-0F4F98AE5BCF.jpeg500A5A38-AF43-49FE-B7A2-56918DD39DB8.jpeg500A5A38-AF43-49FE-B7A2-56918DD39DB8.jpeg085CF69D-F178-4E3B-9CE0-5905C82C8756.jpeg085CF69D-F178-4E3B-9CE0-5905C82C8756.jpeg

#4152 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

As in the past, the best protection will probably come from a combo of different one.

Sorry, the dude cannot abide. This is the same tack Stern is taking with stacking a BBQ Fork or a Blue Marge on a Cliffy lookalike. Is it really going to be necessary to use multiple protection devices for protecting this scoop? I've had a Mantis, and only a Mantis, on my MB forever, and scoop hole is pristine. One of the nice things about a Mantis is that it is nearly invisible. If it sits correctly in the hole, it should stand alone and serve it's purpose.

#4153 2 years ago

Only 1 night, I know, but the ninja looks good to me and the pics he showed of a few weeks on location look great. No hop, no rejects, pretty impressed so far. The stern protectors looked good on game, but pretty bad upon removal.

#4154 2 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

Sorry, the dude cannot abide. This is the same tack Stern is taking with stacking a BBQ Fork or a Blue Marge on a Cliffy lookalike. Is it really going to be necessary to use multiple protection devices for protecting this scoop? I've had a Mantis, and only a Mantis, on my MB forever, and scoop hole is pristine. One of the nice things about a Mantis is that it is nearly invisible. If it sits correctly in the hole, it should stand alone and serve it's purpose.

I can't argue with that, Mantis' protectors have ALWAYS worked well, which is why I worked with him on this. Keep in mind that each scoop hole is designed and abused differently on each pin, so what may work 100% on a MB may need some help to make it 100% on another. The jury is still out!

#4155 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

I can't argue with that, Mantis' protectors have ALWAYS worked well, which is why I worked with him on this.

Right on. I am pro-Mantis as well and would really like to see this be a successful solution. Thanks for putting your time into helping Kerry.

#4156 2 years ago

I ordered mine as soon as I saw that is was for sale. I'm hoping that this will provide adequate protection, where a "cliffy" style protector isn't needed at all. Nothing against Cliffy, he makes great stuff as well. I just don't like that "fork solution". I REALLY hate the horse blinder solution that Stern came up with.

#4157 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Only 1 night, I know, but the ninja looks good to me and the pics he showed of a few weeks on location look great. No hop, no rejects, pretty impressed so far. The stern protectors looked good on game, but pretty bad upon removal.

I'm just hoping the clearance is there to go over the playfield protector I will be installing at the same time as the Ninja.

#4158 2 years ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

I'm just hoping the clearance is there to go over the playfield protector I will be installing at the same time as the Ninja.

I'm pretty sure you want to install the playfield protector over the Ninja, but you can try it.

#4159 2 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

I'm pretty sure you want to install the playfield protector over the Ninja, but you can try it.

Problem is, if putting the playfield protector over the ninja, the PP won't lay flat on the field and have an air gap which will let dirt into the gap and could look like crap in short order.

#4160 2 years ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

Problem is, if putting the playfield protector over the ninja, the PP won't lay flat on the field and have an air gap which will let dirt into the gap and could look like crap in short order.

Maybe, but I think if you do it your way the Ninja lip may not lie flat (because the edge of the hole and the edge of the protector are not going to be exactly coincidental with each other plus you now have an extra .020 inch of grip length for the Ninja to accommodate). Also, the Ninja may act as a gasket to seal out dirt/dust out when the playfield protector is on top since it is made of an elastomeric material. But you may be right - let us know which way works best with your empirical data! The great thing is that the Ninja's flexibility should allow you to change configuration back and forth in minutes without really removing either protector I think.

#4161 2 years ago

Ordered ninja, thanks for posting an update.
Whether it’s a forever fix or not we will see.
Ready to move on and get back to enjoying game.

#4162 2 years ago

After playing my LE for a month, I got the chance to play a Pro on location yesterday. First thing I noticed was how much tighter the tension was on the shooter spring on the pro version. A full plunge required a lot more strength and launched the ball like cannon shot compared to my LE. Anyone know which version spring the Pro is using vs the LE ?

Also, the my LE still has the ball crash into something in the shooter lane 75% of the time to make it a sloppy shot. The Pro was smooth as butter. I've tweaked the shooter rod in my LE as well as double checked the ball guide alignment, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. I'm wondering if tighter shooter spring could cause damage to whatever the the ball is colliding with when exiting the shooter lane. Any other ideas ?

#4163 2 years ago
Quoted from ChesterWhite:

After playing my LE for a month, I got the chance to play a Pro on location yesterday. First thing I noticed was how much tighter the tension was on the shooter spring on the pro version. A full plunge required a lot more strength and launched the ball like cannon shot compared to my LE. Anyone know which version spring the Pro is using vs the LE ?
Also, the my LE still has the ball crash into something in the shooter lane 75% of the time to make it a sloppy shot. The Pro was smooth as butter. I've tweaked the shooter rod in my LE as well as double checked the ball guide alignment, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. I'm wondering if tighter shooter spring could cause damage to whatever the the ball is colliding with when exiting the shooter lane. Any other ideas ?

Exactly this. My plunge sends the ball to the left and just bounces into play - I can hardly ever get a full plunge to go around to the bumpers. Skill shots are now near impossible due to the code change for the skill shot switch.

Has anyone fixed theirs on their LE? Do I need a new spring, ask Stern for a new assembly, etc? Not sure what to do here as I've never had this problem before.

#4164 2 years ago
Quoted from ChesterWhite:

how much tighter the tension was on the shooter spring on the pro version

I noticed that too. I definitely prefer the weaker spring in the Premium and LE. Easy to fix though.

#4165 2 years ago
Quoted from Lateralus:

Exactly this. My plunge sends the ball to the left and just bounces into play - I can hardly ever get a full plunge to go around to the bumpers. Skill shots are now near impossible due to the code change for the skill shot switch.
Has anyone fixed theirs on their LE? Do I need a new spring, ask Stern for a new assembly, etc? Not sure what to do here as I've never had this problem before.

Not sure if it’s the spring. I’ve experimented with lowering and raising the back right corner leg and this helps out a lot but, Still not 100% perfect
I still get one out of 6-8 Plunges that turn into a clunker. And that’s from a manual and auto plunge

#4166 2 years ago

The shooter spring is MUCH smoother and softer, More Precise On my Rush than any of my other pins.

I agree. Definitely prefer the softer buttery smoother shooter spring.

I even changed my shooter rod and still the same beauty precision. So it’s not the rod. Definitely the spring

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#4167 2 years ago
Quoted from avspin:

I have a question on my rush le, I've only had it few days. Out of the box the action button didn't work, it would light red but nothing when pressed. I adjusted the contacts and got it to work. But during play stays red and doesn't change the diverter. I can start a game, launch a ball and enter my initials but nothing else.
Is there another contact or somewhere else I should be looking? There is 0.91 on it.
Thanks

I have the same problem. I know the switch works because I can use it to plunge, and I've had a few times where I got the weapon and the switch worked for that, but aside from those 2 things, the switch doesn't do anything with the diverter for me.

#4168 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Ok, everyone asked so here it is. Results of play after two tournaments and about ~3 weeks on location with a non-f’ed up scoop. It is really hard to take pictures that are super macro without a great camera, but hopefully these do the job. I would estimate about 800+ balls played on it, plus multi balls of course. Not only does it still look perfect, there is a tiny bit of green sharpie still on the wood from when I was trying to trace it.

Mine just shipped so hope to install it soon, do you recommend using an acrylic washer under the posts to prevent bunching or you think that's not necessary? Just asking as someone else mentioned they did that.

#4169 2 years ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

I have the same problem. I know the switch works because I can use it to plunge, and I've had a few times where I got the weapon and the switch worked for that, but aside from those 2 things, the switch doesn't do anything with the diverter for me.

The diverter doesn't physically change when you hit the lockdown button - it is more of a software change that tells it which direction to go (left or right). The lower flashers indicate which direction is currently set. Hitting the lockdown button should cause a lightshow animation from one side to the other, and when finished the flasher on the other side should now be flashing.

The diverter itself gets activated when the ball triggers one of the switches on the ramps. This is because the diverter will be in a different up/down position depending on which ramp it entered. For example, if it is set to divert to the left inlane, then the diverter will be DOWN for side ramp shots, but UP for right ramp shots.

Note that some modes will override the manual diverter selection. For example, La Villa Strangiato diverts to the appropriate side to hit the next flashing shot in the sequence.

#4170 2 years ago
Quoted from Lateralus:

Exactly this. My plunge sends the ball to the left and just bounces into play - I can hardly ever get a full plunge to go around to the bumpers. Skill shots are now near impossible due to the code change for the skill shot switch.
Has anyone fixed theirs on their LE? Do I need a new spring, ask Stern for a new assembly, etc? Not sure what to do here as I've never had this problem before.

I tried realignment but ended up just replacing mine with an Orange one. It made a big difference.

#4171 2 years ago
Quoted from avspin:

I have a question on my rush le, I've only had it few days. Out of the box the action button didn't work, it would light red but nothing when pressed. I adjusted the contacts and got it to work. But during play stays red and doesn't change the diverter. I can start a game, launch a ball and enter my initials but nothing else.
Is there another contact or somewhere else I should be looking? There is 0.91 on it.
Thanks

Nothing mechanical happens when you hit the red button. You'll see the pulsing flasher change from the left side to the right side, or vice versa. This tells you which way the ball will go when you hit the ramp. Only then does the diverter fire. No reason for the game to use coil energy on the diverter if the ball isn't there.

#4172 2 years ago
Quoted from Reality_Studio:

Mine just shipped so hope to install it soon, do you recommend using an acrylic washer under the posts to prevent bunching or you think that's not necessary? Just asking as someone else mentioned they did that.

I don't know if it's necessary, but I had em here from gnr fix and decided to try. The ball cannot hit the washers, so I think it's a good idea

18
#4173 2 years ago
Quoted from Reality_Studio:

Mine just shipped so hope to install it soon, do you recommend using an acrylic washer under the posts to prevent bunching or you think that's not necessary? Just asking as someone else mentioned they did that.

Hey, Outpost Kodelia here. We're the other half of the team that co-developed the TPU scoop protector for Rush along with NinjaCamp. I think the acrylic washer is a great idea and certainly wouldn't hurt, but we've had good results just making sure the post is held steady as the nut is tightened by using socket wrenches on both sides of the playfield at the same time. The one on top should be a deep socket right over the top of the post and you can use that to hold it steady, or even spin it backwards a bit if your protector starts to bunch up on one side or the other.

We're all so happy to hear the positive responses from the folks that have started installing them. Just to throw our own testimony into the ring, we have a Rush LE here and we have had one of these installed on it from practically day one - as fast as we could design the part! - and both the playfield around the scoop and the protector still look brand new and there's no detectable impact on the shots. We're continuing to crank them out and we should be all caught up on the initial deluge of orders we received very soon so everyone that wants to can share in our peace of mind!

Just an FYI on the VUK protector, we have a design that we've developed and installed in our LE that is very promising and seems to be working well, but is somewhat difficult to install. We're trying to work out a different variation that's much easier to install but we're just not sure where we're going to land on this yet. Development and testing on this (and a few other ideas as well!) continues, so stay tuned!

#4174 2 years ago
Quoted from gripwhip:

I tried realignment but ended up just replacing mine with an Orange one. It made a big difference.

Cool, thank you. I can buy one from Pinballlife. Do you still get clunkers to the side of the shooter lane at all? Did you do a combination of realigning the red screws and replacing the spring, etc.? Thanks for the tip.

#4175 2 years ago

Anyone else getting the ball stuck on the ramp here at the top of the flap? The V notch catches a slow ball whether the ramp is up or down and you have to shake it hard enough to tilt to get it off. I have no idea why there's a V there because a straight across cut on that flap wouldn't hit the ramp when it goes up or down. Ball search moving the ramp does nothing to knock it loose.

PXL_20220329_214832097 (resized).jpgPXL_20220329_214832097 (resized).jpgPXL_20220329_215256582 (resized).jpgPXL_20220329_215256582 (resized).jpg
#4176 2 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Anyone else getting the ball stuck on the ramp here at the top of the flap? The V notch catches a slow ball whether the ramp is up or down and you have to shake it hard enough to tilt to get it off. I have no idea why there's a V there because a straight across cut on that flap wouldn't hit the ramp when it goes up or down. Ball search moving the ramp does nothing to knock it loose.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I've had it happen a couple of times. And yes, you have to tilt to break it free.

#4177 2 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Anyone else getting the ball stuck on the ramp here at the top of the flap? The V notch catches a slow ball whether the ramp is up or down and you have to shake it hard enough to tilt to get it off. I have no idea why there's a V there because a straight across cut on that flap wouldn't hit the ramp when it goes up or down. Ball search moving the ramp does nothing to knock it loose.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Could it have anything to do with the balls becoming magnetized?

#4178 2 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Anyone else getting the ball stuck on the ramp here at the top of the flap? The V notch catches a slow ball whether the ramp is up or down and you have to shake it hard enough to tilt to get it off. I have no idea why there's a V there because a straight across cut o. Zn that flap wouldn't hit the ramp when it goes up or down. Ball search moving the ramp does nothing to knock it loose.
[quoted image][quoted image]

.
Yes, I ve had it too. I guess I have my plump Bob a little liberal because I can shake it loose

#4179 2 years ago

I had it happen once Mike. Haven't put my tilt bob on yet so it was OK

#4180 2 years ago

If I've ever hung out/smoked out with ya at a show, you know I love it loud. Like, really loud.
I've got a fairly nice 300 watt sub on mine but...it's still not loud enough. I'm not one to sacrifice clarity for volume cause I want both.
I know there's some audiophiles in here so how can I make this louder?
1000 watt sub?
Pinwoofers?
Both?
Plan on getting the Pinwoofers soon, but
I need it LOUD.

#4181 2 years ago

Same thing as IMD, it starts to break up and lose clarity at any volume over 43.
Need more volume.

#4182 2 years ago

Just placed my Ninjacamp order. Never been so excited for a fuckin cliffy

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#4183 2 years ago
Quoted from jpc211245:

Could it have anything to do with the balls becoming magnetized?

Nope. Sits in the ramp flap cut-out. It's a weird design and just creates a ball trap.

#4184 2 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

If I've ever hung out/smoked out with ya at a show, you know I love it loud. Like, really loud.
I've got a fairly nice 300 watt sub on mine but...it's still not loud enough. I'm not one to sacrifice clarity for volume cause I want both.
I know there's some audiophiles in here so how can I make this louder?
1000 watt sub?
Pinwoofers?
Both?
Plan on getting the Pinwoofers soon, but
I need it LOUD.

BUY THE DAMN PINWOOFERS!!!

#4185 2 years ago

And a good sub. Klipsch preferred here, but the polks work great too. Have 3 each

#4186 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

And a good sub. Klipsch preferred hotel, but the polks work great too. Have 3 each

If you are looking for LOUD…like really F’n loud, I’d skip the Polk 10” and go with the Kipsch Reference 12”. I have both and the Klipsch outperforms the Polk in every single way and gets you that deep booming bass you’re looking for. Be advised - RCA’s inputs only in the Kilpschs’ tho.
I still haven’t gotten around to the Pinwoofer game yet but I trust Hayfarmer - I’ll eventually show up to that party once I pay my machines down.

#4187 2 years ago

Damn you guys…

AA6BBAEB-92C8-470C-9AC5-B5A99FF93F6C (resized).jpegAA6BBAEB-92C8-470C-9AC5-B5A99FF93F6C (resized).jpeg
#4188 2 years ago

I have a great sub. It sounds fantastic. I just need it slightly louder

#4189 2 years ago
Quoted from John-Floyd:

If you are looking for LOUD…like really F’n loud, I’d skip the Polk 10” and go with the Kipsch Reference 12”. I have both and the Klipsch outperforms the Polk in every single way and gets you that deep booming bass you’re looking for. Be advised - RCA’s inputs only in the Kilpschs’ tho.
I still haven’t gotten around to the Pinwoofer game yet but I trust Hayfarmer - I’ll eventually show up to that party once I pay my machines down.

And order the bbu too, huge increase in bass response and clarity. Have it on 3 pins now

#4190 2 years ago
Quoted from John-Floyd:

If you are looking for LOUD…like really F’n loud, I’d skip the Polk 10” and go with the Kipsch Reference 12”. I have both and the Klipsch outperforms the Polk in every single way and gets you that deep booming bass you’re looking for. Be advised - RCA’s inputs only in the Kilpschs’ tho.
I still haven’t gotten around to the Pinwoofer game yet but I trust Hayfarmer - I’ll eventually show up to that party once I pay my machines down.

This one?
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-120SW-Subwoofer/dp/B07FK2WNW4/ref=sr_1_2

#4191 2 years ago

WHY DO YOU HAVE TO REASSURE ME EVERY OTHER PAGE lol
Got it and SOLD on the Pinwoofers

#4192 2 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

WHY DO YOU HAVE TO REASSURE ME EVERY OTHER PAGE lol
Got it and SOLD on the Pinwoofers

#4193 2 years ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

This one?
amazon.com link »

That one is a newer upgraded version which I’m sure is outstanding. Here is the one I use for my pins - I have 3 of them and I’m very happy with them - they sure went up in price lately - hell I got mine for around $125-$150ish a year or so ago on sale.

Klipsch R-12SW Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJ1YR8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NAHDVVRJBSWMFAPRPTYQ

#4194 2 years ago
Quoted from John-Floyd:

That one is a newer upgraded version which I’m sure is outstanding. Here is the one I use for my pins - I have 3 of them and I’m very happy with them - they sure went up in price lately - hell I got mine for around $125-$150ish a year or so ago on sale.
Klipsch R-12SW Subwoofer amazon.com link »

Yup, mine from Costco were on sale for $149 at Christmas last year

#4195 2 years ago
Quoted from ChesterWhite:

Also, the my LE still has the ball crash into something in the shooter lane 75% of the time to make it a sloppy shot. The Pro was smooth as butter. I've tweaked the shooter rod in my LE as well as double checked the ball guide alignment, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. I'm wondering if tighter shooter spring could cause damage to whatever the the ball is colliding with when exiting the shooter lane. Any other ideas ?

Every time this has happened to me, a slight adjustment of the entire playfield (right or left) has fixed it. And I do mean slight...a mm or two maybe. I now get a rattler about 10% of the time. YMMV.

#4196 2 years ago

Sorry everyone! The day job keeps me from responding as fast as I would like .

Two things:
First, thank you all so much for the nice comments!! It is really exciting to see this technique scale to a larger user base than my original Rick and Morty idea.

Second, in my experience Playfield Protector’s (from this company https://www.playfield-protectors.com/) are either cut around the scoop protector (like my Godzilla) or cut under it. If they go under it, I recommend also shoving them under the scoop protector. I’ve always had great experience with placing the playfield protector under the factory metal and I don’t think our protector is any exception.

Again, thank you all! We’re cranking these out as fast as possible!!

#4197 2 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Just placed my Ninjacamp order. Never been so excited for a fuckin cliffy

Glad to hear you’re picking one up. I know it’s stupid, but that damn thing makes playing even more fun than it already is. Can’t wait to hear your review.

#4198 2 years ago
Quoted from usafstars:

Glad to hear you’re picking one up. I know it’s stupid, but that damn thing makes playing even more fun than it already is. Can’t wait to hear your review.

I find I'm not avoiding or flinching when I hit the lower scoop. I was shocked how bad the stock protectors looked and how thin and brittle they were. Had small cracks where stern cut the ears off the lower protector

#4199 2 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Anyone else getting the ball stuck on the ramp here at the top of the flap? .
[quoted image][quoted image]

ALL .THE. TIME

Lately, my ball has been hitting the blue bumpers on the side of the ramp while the ramp is up and triggering the time machine multi ball.

I've also had the ball ride up the ramp rails and over the top of the time machine. I've got balls flying everywhere!

#4200 2 years ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

ALL .THE. TIME
Lately, my ball has been hitting the blue bumpers on the side of the ramp while the ramp is up and triggering the time machine multi ball.
I've also had the ball ride up the ramp rails and over the top of the time machine. I've got balls flying everywhere!

Are you playing Rush pinball or having a sausage party?!

This all happens especially if you have a 6 ball multi ball happen. Sometimes I cringe the minute I get multi ball.
Between that and the shaker, I feel like the machine is going to explode

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
From: $ 140.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
WilliPinball Mods
 
$ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Fuzz
 
From: $ 16.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
BomberMods
 
6,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Virginia Beach, VA
$ 275.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Performance Pinball
 
$ 130.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Dijohn
 
$ 50.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The Games People
 
$ 80.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The Games People
 
$ 427.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinWoofer
 
From: $ 40.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The Games People
 
$ 40.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Rocket City Pinball
 
From: $ 8.00
Cabinet - Decals
Space Coast Pinball
 
$ 22.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
From: $ 8.99
Cabinet - Other
Inscribed Solutions
 
11,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Roswell, GA
€ 99.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Watssapen shop
 
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 45.00
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
 
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
 
10,800 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Tatamy, PA
6,999
Machine - For Sale
West Chicago, IL
$ 35.00
Lighting - Led
Lermods
 
$ 30.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 6,799.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
 
$ 8.00
Apparel - Unisex
arcade-cabinets.com
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
There are 17,884 posts in this topic. You are on page 84 of 358.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/84?hl=pinwoofer and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.