I gave out my Rick and Morty mod for free yet people still wanted me to print them. Time truly is more valuable than money. I think this custom cut Mylar is a nice service for anyone wanting to go that route.

Do you use a Cricut @pinmonk?

There is an option on RUSH to turn down all the LED lighting from blindingly bright to mellow.
It's nice they give this option and in a very OCD kind of way!

Might be a bit harsh in critique , some I don't care for, was thinkin a nice gold vein might look really nice. Black is just so plain, just my .02

For this one. We have a Cameo as well, but I don't really like it.

I don't mind the rust and the teal, but I agree that the satin black they did from the factory was a cool choice.

Yeah, I think part of the problem is that their stock picture looks nothing like the actual LE cabinet, which is much darker. I could actually see brown or brick red working pretty well.

Man, I don’t know if I can NOT get these now. Do you find they impact or block the sound? How hard was the install?

Backlit targets,looks ok I used amber
If you do these ask me what you need to do to the targets first before reinstall them,they need a little massaging to work correctly.also need to shim the ledge and sand the back of drops then pull a few coils off the springs.not sure if it’s worth it on this game,you decided.the game is bright anyway.

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PinMonk

Would you please share the Premium with armor colours as well?

Brass & Bronze.

I was convinced I’d go white or red. But now seeing it in person, I can appreciate the Subtle minor occurance of bronze & brass in the premium cabin art.

Thank you.

Oh cool! I admit I don’t really understand Time Machine awards, but have seen them awarded occasionally. Will need to read up on what they are and how to earn them.

EDIT- Just read up on this and absolutely love this gameplay mechanic. Reminds me a lot of powerups on Godzilla. This really encourages completing modes, and doing well in them (100m+)

http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-rush-rulesheet/7409#heading--upgrades

Last night I moved the outlane posts up a notch on both sides. As others have mentioned, the left side is easy but the right is fully covered by the plastic ramp return. Still, it wasn’t too difficult to unfasten and lift away from the playfield enough to get access.

All you need to do is to remove the first 3 Philips head screws that attach the ramp to hex posts. The lower right flasher can be easily disconnected from below the playfield, which will give you plenty of room to lift the ramp up and access the outlane post. Took me about 10 minutes and I was being really careful.

The left post has 3 positions (I chose the middle) and the right has only 2 (I chose the top).

I played a few games after the change and it definitely makes those outlanes hungrier. I noticed it mostly during multiball and it is going to have me changing my strategy, in a good way. In the past I was able to pretty much flail around during multiball with little concern of draining out the sides. Trapping up and improving my horrible multiball control skills is going to be required now.

This is the way the Pros were shipped.

The Rush pin has a 4/8 ohm setting for both cabinet and back box. Makes a difference in sound quality. Also EQ and high low floor which in not sure what that does. Factory settings where not ideal.

Still think this color nailed it for the LE anyway!

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What’s up with Stern eliminating the Tournament button?

Theres no impact, the foam came from factory, this kit just adds the white mesh behind the foam. The music notes are in the acrylics section as an option, you don't need if you don't like the look. Install is a breeze, power supply is right there. Type 12 deluxe, with sound activated controller

That looks great, did you have it done by Robert stone or Steve here, or locally? And what's the color mix called? Thx

Nice! Who did that?

This is the way all games should have been shipped. Once during multi ball I stopped flipping and stepped away from the machine and the game played by itself for 2 minutes!

I'm glad you guys are so naturally talented at pinball...hehehe...my left AND right outlanes seem to drain with no problem at all. As if they were much wider than they are!

Maybe later.....

FWIW, I have had zero problems with the forks only on the LE fix. It's the top scoop that's a piece of crap. Dented on ball 3. Ordered the NINJACAMP scoop protector as soon as it was available.

GLORIOUS. Should've been that way from the factory...but it's Stern.

It was HemiOrange in Michigan. Never got the color confirmed but I think it is this one.

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Can you put up a few more pics of your game please? Would love to seecan overhead of the rails and lockdown bar. Thx

Go back to this post if you didn't see it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/41#post-6812805

Hopefully, I have a premium arriving in May or June. Question: if you could go back in time and do something protection-wise before your first play, would you? I mean would you replace the scoops with Ninja and lay mylar in the scoop area? I read through what to do with the game settings, but my concern is doing some type of preventative work before I let the ball fly. Am I being over-cautious or should I just play and do the eventual repairs as they come? If I do some type of preventative repair before playing, what exactly do you recommend?
Thank you

Are you talking about a protector that protects the previously mentioned playfield protector that protects the original protector and /or the substitute blue sammich protector?

Yes, I would definitely protect before the first flip if possible and always turn down the coil power for the ball load to shooter lane. Cliffy or Ninja for sure although you may get the rubber sandwich fix on your premium.

I have a ninja on the way and am also on cliffy list, and will mylar the scoop area when I install. I have 200+ plays on now, no issues, a bit of scuffing on upper scoop protector but no field damage.

I picked up and set up my Rush LE over a week ago and I am doing just that. I did playtest 2 quick games on it and that's it until I get it fully protected enough that I won't be causing damage everytime I play it. I have plenty of other titles (and restoration work to do frankly) that I don't mind the wait.

Update: Playfield protector has just arrived to join the pinwoofer system waiting to be installed. Now I just need the Ninjacamp protector as this will be going in at the same time as the protector. Then she's off to the races! =)

Cliffy has this on his site but he says Front scoop not holding up as I would like. Better than the factorys but not as well as I would like

so hopefully soon

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Thank you for the information. I would guess that my Prem will arrive with the blue sandwich. Would the only reason to put in a Cliffy or Ninja then be for aesthetic purposes or is it (will be) superior in protection? Also, is the laying mylar in the area of the scoop necessary? I read somewhere in these forums that laying mylar is generally something only done on older games and the newer Stern playfields are already well protected??

Stern still ships most games with mylar in multiple places. Scoop kickouts and pop bumper areas especially.

So, RUSH Premium

I genuinely love this pin. Is it my fav? No.
Is it or will be better than Maiden? IMHO, No.
but, this could be as good as or better than Metallica once the Code matures.

The possibilities in shots, the diversity and options in approach are quite intriguing.
Although deep, it’s fun and “easy” which in my limited collection is a refreshing welcomed change. It’s different. Feels, different. I like it.

Currently playing the same mode over and over again. Can’t seem to get enough.
Which mode? You ask.
Well, it’s the “No hitting the scoops with Direct shots” mode. Loving it !
Can see wear on the forks, however hearing Cliffy is nearing a final fix and my name is moving up his list so, all good.

Borg has a winner here. I’m curious how many will end up being made. This could become a niche gem pin…. Who knows.

I can't really do metallic examples easily, it's more for color matching ideas.

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Don't worry - I'm not a great player either. Widening is not happening here LOL.

That said - I'm purposely not playing the machine too much as my scoop is a mess (I have an original Pro). Will certainly play more (and bigger scores to come) once it's fixed.

Thank you.

I have an error on my side scoop. It keeps telling me "Side scoop malfunction." When the ball goes in it, sometimes it won't come out until it searches for balls. Anyone else have this problem or a fix for it? Any help would be appreciated.

Check that the switches are working. Go into switch test and set your phone to slo-mo record, then point it at the screen and hit record. Drop a ball in, then stop the recording. Review. See what switches it activated. I think it should have activated two optos and a switch in there. Sounds like one of them or more is out.

Just picked up my premium.

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Anyone tried this yet to find out what it is?

From a post long ago by LTG, assuming this remains the same.

“Alters some of the adjustments and settings. Directors cut for instance is what the programmer preferred.
Novelty usually eliminates winning games or extra balls etc.”

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-installs-home-directors-cut-noveltytransformers-le#post-384282

I will try and get to it tonight, but if not it won't be until Monday. Thank You!

Is anyone else still having issues with Extra Ball on top scoop not registering? With new code update .91 I had 7 balls go in there with light on and nothing was awarded. Extra Ball behind the upper flipper still registers correctly and gives extra ball. Just curious. This started with code .90. I might have a faulty top scoop sensor??

Check that tiny switch in the upper scoop staging area. I don't think yours is registering. I have no idea why the software doesn't accept the opto break as a scoop hit, but it seems to rely in this switch (or maybe it needs both?). Unfortunately Stern's brilliant engineering made this so the screws for the switch face the playfield, so you have to remove the whole subway to get to this. If they did it the reverse, it would be a 2 minute job. Ah, well.

Test to make sure the switch works first, then once you verify that, adjust.

All of that said, I believe the software keys on the opto beam being broken. I tested with glass off and switch adjusted to be working with a ball at the midpoint. Manually lit extra ball on the upper scoop. Dropped a ball in - nothing. Manually triggered the roller switch. Nothing. Broke the opto beam manually. Nothing. Left the opto beam broken for about 2 seconds SUDDENLY EXTRA BALL! So I'm back to thinking this is a software problem. It's not catching momentary opto breaks for the extra ball.

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So I'm guessing the adjustment is just the slop in the two holes that the switch is screwed into? Isn't this the switch you said is probably in need of replacement?

Sorry but I am not feeling that color scheme. I prefer the simple approach of flat black. I know to each is own but I do not see this as an improvement.

Glad you finally picked it up! Nice the premiums are showing up in Canada.

Rush washing machine we are working on, should be in the shop in a couple days

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"9:05 you're five minutes late numbnuts"
Lol

This is very nice! Thanks for posting the penny vein color. Do you know who could do this in Toronto? The gold lugs are a nice touch too - very drum hardwarish!