(Topic ID: 308430)

RUSH Pinball Official Owners Club-“Straining the Limits of Machine and Man”

By mrossman5

2 years ago


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#12651 1 year ago

I think I mentioned this before that my lower scoop moves. I'm now trying to determine if this is true for everyone's lower scoop and there's some play in there intentionally? I can grab each side like the following picture and can slightly move it side to side up and down and back it shifts around on those side posts because there's play between the L bracket and the black plastic washer. Everything seems to be tight so I'm just wondering if I'm just now noticing there's play in the scoop? Next time anybody has their glass off grab your scoop like the following picture and wiggle. Is there movement?
PXL_20230225_170737031 (resized).jpgPXL_20230225_170737031 (resized).jpg
Here's the left and right side post where you can see the metal bracket from the scoop sitting under that black plastic spacer and the gaps. That allow it to move around in there. Everything is tight so it seems like maybe this play is supposed to be there?
PXL_20230225_170016257 (resized).jpgPXL_20230225_170016257 (resized).jpgPXL_20230225_170134661 (resized).jpgPXL_20230225_170134661 (resized).jpg

Maybe I'm just getting to the point where I'm noticing and the play has always been there.

#12652 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

I think I mentioned this before that my lower scoop moves. I'm now trying to determine if this is true for everyone's lower scoop and there's some play in there intentionally? I can grab each side like the following picture and can slightly move it side to side up and down and back it shifts around on those side posts because there's play between the L bracket and the black plastic washer. Everything seems to be tight so I'm just wondering if I'm just now noticing there's play in the scoop? Next time anybody has their glass off grab your scoop like the following picture and wiggle. Is there movement?
[quoted image]
Here's the left and right side post where you can see the metal bracket from the scoop sitting under that black plastic spacer and the gaps. That allow it to move around in there. Everything is tight so it seems like maybe this play is supposed to be there?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Maybe I'm just getting to the point where I'm noticing and the play has always been there.

It doesn’t move. Ignore space between the rubber and the bracket… the bracket uses the post not ghe rubber sleeve

#12653 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

I think I mentioned this before that my lower scoop moves. I'm now trying to determine if this is true for everyone's lower scoop and there's some play in there intentionally? I can grab each side like the following picture and can slightly move it side to side up and down and back it shifts around on those side posts because there's play between the L bracket and the black plastic washer. Everything seems to be tight so I'm just wondering if I'm just now noticing there's play in the scoop? Next time anybody has their glass off grab your scoop like the following picture and wiggle. Is there movement?
[quoted image]
Here's the left and right side post where you can see the metal bracket from the scoop sitting under that black plastic spacer and the gaps. That allow it to move around in there. Everything is tight so it seems like maybe this play is supposed to be there?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Maybe I'm just getting to the point where I'm noticing and the play has always been there.

I can't imagine playing with those horrible blocks there.

#12654 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

It doesn’t move. Ignore space between the rubber and the bracket… the bracket uses the post not the rubber sleeve

Ok thanks.. So my snubber bracket has .5mm at least and maybe close to 1mm of play so I can tilt the front of the bracket up and down andv even more left and right.

My sparsely populated brain can't seem to identify where to tighten this up and remove the play.
The post on both sides is tight.
If I could close the gap/play that exists between the plastic spacer that is between the game plastics and the bracket top of the post that the bracket sits on, then think it would stop moving.

But the post is completely tight. I do see a nut at the bottom under the rubber around the post. my concern is that's the location that I need to get to in order to move the post higher up to tighten down that nut which will close the gap between the plastic spacer and the top of the post thereby eliminating the play.

The The one near the side scoop isn't that difficult to get to but the one that's next to the pop bumpers looks a little trickier. Not to mention I don't really have anything other than a closed box end wrench set. So before I go source a tool to be able to adjust those posts, I want to be sure that I'm not totally wrong and what the solution is to remove the play.

#12655 1 year ago

You should strongly consider doing away with your current scoop set-up and going the ninjacamp route. Just my 2 cents. The gap with the current scoop protection is going to cause issues.

#12656 1 year ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

I did not see it in a key post - but my shooter rod does not seem to be launching the ball far enough (it often takes 2-3 shots just to get it out of the lane). It does not look crooked or misaligned and as far as I can tell unscrewing the metal portion where the ball rests before launching and trying to "slide it back" isn't improving it much. Anything I'm missing?

If it’s the stock shooter lane spring, they’re pretty weak, you’ll want to upgrade. PBL has a color chart for springs, find a heavier duty one. I’ve got orange in mine.

#12657 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

You should strongly consider doing away with your current scoop set-up and going the ninjacamp route. Just my 2 cents. The gap with the current scoop protection is going to cause issues.

Okay this is great advice. I didn't necessarily care how the snubbers look, but I don't want the current solution from stern to cause issues down the road...

What's the level of difficulty on the install from Ninja camp? I'm going to go check out their store now.

#12658 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

I think I mentioned this before that my lower scoop moves. I'm now trying to determine if this is true for everyone's lower scoop and there's some play in there intentionally? I can grab each side like the following picture and can slightly move it side to side up and down and back it shifts around on those side posts because there's play between the L bracket and the black plastic washer. Everything seems to be tight so I'm just wondering if I'm just now noticing there's play in the scoop? Next time anybody has their glass off grab your scoop like the following picture and wiggle. Is there movement?
[quoted image]
Here's the left and right side post where you can see the metal bracket from the scoop sitting under that black plastic spacer and the gaps. That allow it to move around in there. Everything is tight so it seems like maybe this play is supposed to be there?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Maybe I'm just getting to the point where I'm noticing and the play has always been there.

Good news is, it’s not your scoop moving, it’s the side ears bracket from Stern, per your picture and finger placement. Completely separate piece.

You can just remove it, or replace the whole Stern fix with the NinjaCamp protector, problem solved.

#12659 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Okay this is great advice. I didn't necessarily care how the snubbers look, but I don't want the current solution from stern to cause issues down the road...
What's the level of difficulty on the install from Ninja camp? I'm going to go check out their store now.

http://mjf.me/Pinball/Rush_TPU_Scoop_Protector_v2_Installation.pdf

Also, get some proper hollow shaft magnetic tip nut drivers, that will help with removal and installation. You’ll need them for any future pinball maintenance anyway.

#12660 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Ok thanks.. So my snubber bracket has .5mm at least and maybe close to 1mm of play so I can tilt the front of the bracket up and down andv even more left and right.
My sparsely populated brain can't seem to identify where to tighten this up and remove the play.
The post on both sides is tight.
If I could close the gap/play that exists between the plastic spacer that is between the game plastics and the bracket top of the post that the bracket sits on, then think it would stop moving.
But the post is completely tight. I do see a nut at the bottom under the rubber around the post. my concern is that's the location that I need to get to in order to move the post higher up to tighten down that nut which will close the gap between the plastic spacer and the top of the post thereby eliminating the play.
The The one near the side scoop isn't that difficult to get to but the one that's next to the pop bumpers looks a little trickier. Not to mention I don't really have anything other than a closed box end wrench set. So before I go source a tool to be able to adjust those posts, I want to be sure that I'm not totally wrong and what the solution is to remove the play.

My scoop blinds are completely tight and have no movement sideways or upward. Looks like maybe your left post(if looking at it from the player’s perspective)has a small gap and needs to be tightened. I had to tighten my scoop blinds once but it was just the top screws and after I tightened them it was solid but if you’re saying you tighten the top screws already then it’s probably your loose post that’s keeping it from getting completely solid. You’ll need an open end wrench for the top and bottom(or socket for bottom side)to tighten the post but can’t think of the size off the sides of my head.

#12661 1 year ago

Maybe yours was supposed to be that way like mine??

I wonder if I can just put an extra washer at the top of that post where the plastic spacer is next to the bracket to close the gap.

I'm still not convinced The scoop blinds are supposed to be tight with no movement.... like either it's supposed to move like this because other people's do, or it's just a common maintenance item that needs to be fixed when it gets loose. Obviously the delete option is there but looking SterlingRush instructions (thank you btw!).. It's a fair bit of work and I'm not there in my mind yet.

Maybe I'll ask Stern.

#12662 1 year ago

Network latency.
Double post

#12663 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Maybe yours was supposed to be that way like mine??
I wonder if I can just put an extra washer at the top of that post where the plastic spacer is next to the bracket to close the gap.
I'm still not convinced The scoop blinds are supposed to be tight with no movement.... like either it's supposed to move like this because other people's do, or it's just a common maintenance item that needs to be fixed when it gets loose. Obviously the delete option is there but looking SterlingRush instructions... It's a fair bit of work and I'm not there in my mind yet.
Maybe I'll ask Stern.

Like Wildbill said pretty sure they are supposed to be tight. Mine became lose a couple of plays out of the box. I tightened the screws up top and it solved the problem. If the screws uptop are tight maybe look to tighten the posts the screws go into either on top or below the playfield

#12664 1 year ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

I did not see it in a key post - but my shooter rod does not seem to be launching the ball far enough (it often takes 2-3 shots just to get it out of the lane). It does not look crooked or misaligned and as far as I can tell unscrewing the metal portion where the ball rests before launching and trying to "slide it back" isn't improving it much. Anything I'm missing?

Quoted from metal-mods:

Check to see if the auto-launch mechanism's forks are moving when you manually plunge. If so, you will want to raise the playfield, completely remove the RED screws on the inside plate of the shooter rod assembly, then slightly loosen the others. Put the playfield down, and move the shooter assembly from the front side of cabinet until it no longer drags the forks forward when you manually plunge. Once you're finished, tighten the screws you loosened, then put the red screws back in.

#12665 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Maybe yours was supposed to be that way like mine??
I wonder if I can just put an extra washer at the top of that post where the plastic spacer is next to the bracket to close the gap.
I'm still not convinced The scoop blinds are supposed to be tight with no movement.... like either it's supposed to move like this because other people's do, or it's just a common maintenance item that needs to be fixed when it gets loose. Obviously the delete option is there but looking SterlingRush instructions (thank you btw!).. It's a fair bit of work and I'm not there in my mind yet.
Maybe I'll ask Stern.

Those installation instructions are from NinjaCamp, but it gives the sizes and tools to have on hand. 11/32” nut driver for the nuts under the playfield. It has the step by step to remove the top plastics, to give you more room to examine and fix as well.

Those blinders are a secondary part, so you should be able to adjust as needed....or just remove

#12666 1 year ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

My scoop blinds are completely tight and have no movement sideways or upward. Looks like maybe your left post(if looking at it from the player’s perspective)has a small gap and needs to be tightened. I had to tighten my scoop blinds once but it was just the top screws and after I tightened them it was solid but if you’re saying you tighten the top screws already then it’s probably your loose post that’s keeping it from getting completely solid. You’ll need an open end wrench for the top and bottom(or socket for bottom side)to tighten the post but can’t think of the size off the sides of my head.

Quoted from tslayer71:

Like Wildbill said pretty sure they are supposed to be tight. Mine became lose a couple of plays out of the box. I tightened the screws up top and it solved the problem. If the screws uptop are tight maybe look to tighten the posts the screws go into either on top or below the playfield

Quoted from SterlingRush:

Those installation instructions are from NinjaCamp, but it gives the sizes and tools to have on hand. 11/32” nut driver for the nuts under the playfield. It has the step by step to remove the top plastics, to give you more room to examine and fix as well.
Those blinders are a secondary part, so you should be able to adjust as needed....or just remove

Alrighty. I'll give this some more effort!

Thanks very much.

#12667 1 year ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

I did not see it in a key post - but my shooter rod does not seem to be launching the ball far enough (it often takes 2-3 shots just to get it out of the lane). It does not look crooked or misaligned and as far as I can tell unscrewing the metal portion where the ball rests before launching and trying to "slide it back" isn't improving it much. Anything I'm missing?

Are you talking about the auto or manual plunger? If it's the manual, there's another possible cause here. The culprit may be the *outer* spring, the one encircling the outer rod between the handle and the cabinet. This may be too big/long, so this spring is starting to compress before the tip hits the ball, sapping its power. You can try crimping this to be coiled more compactly, or clip off a bit to make it shorter. Don't worry about doing this - this spring's purpose is to prevent the handle from smacking into the cabinet, but for home use where you're softly plunging for the skill shot, a little less springiness there won't matter. (Or just buy one as a sacrificial piece to try this out.)

Quoted from Vespula:

I think I mentioned this before that my lower scoop moves. I'm now trying to determine if this is true for everyone's lower scoop and there's some play in there intentionally? I can grab each side like the following picture and can slightly move it side to side up and down and back it shifts around on those side posts because there's play between the L bracket and the black plastic washer. Everything seems to be tight so I'm just wondering if I'm just now noticing there's play in the scoop? Next time anybody has their glass off grab your scoop like the following picture and wiggle. Is there movement?

For me, the curved metal scoop itself doesn't move, but the "earmuff" piece with the vertical sides does move a little bit. I'm also not sure if this is normal. Asking anyone in the discussion here: is it intentional for the "earmuff" piece to be a bit loose, to cushion the ball entering the scoop, or should it be screwed down tight? (Seems like the answers say tight, but I'm not 100% sure you're talking about the earmuff as opposed to the scoop itself.)

#12668 1 year ago
Quoted from vikingerik:

For me, the curved metal scoop itself doesn't move, but the "earmuff" piece with the vertical sides does move a little bit. I'm also not sure if this is normal. Asking anyone in the discussion here: is it intentional for the "earmuff" piece to be a bit loose, to cushion the ball entering the scoop, or should it be screwed down tight? (Seems like the answers say tight, but I'm not 100% sure you're talking about the earmuff as opposed to the scoop itself.)

Assuming you're just getting caught up, and finding the earmuff is called a scoop blind, or blinders.... I am learning too, leaning towards these should be tight, and plan to explore more how to tighten them later.
Thank you!

#12669 1 year ago

I just got my Rush premium yesterday, I ended up spending 8 hours reading posts about the node10 boards and found mine had the "Bad" crimps so soldered everything together (thanks to the people to did that node 10 "issues and non-issues" that was great work!.) and checked the node10 connectors too those where good. I really am concerned about Sterns quality assurance though.

I had bought a GZ premium in November and after about 10 games the building fell off. apparently whoever assembled it assembled it wrong luckily it didn't break anything and I was able to get diagrams from Stern on how to reassemble it (some of the pieces that were there were NOT in the manual, but in one of their support docs)

This Rush, had screws laying in the bottom of the box, an airball deflector that wasn't screwed into ANY of the supports, the glass that has a really bad bevel that sounds like it's scratching when you put it in or out of the game. (I put mylar on to wrap it), bad crimps on that ramp, and a coin holder that wasn't secured and bounching around the underside of the game, I'm sure I"ll find more issues.
really sad for a 9-10K product and if your the designer you have to be pissed that such an apparently great game has had such a bad experience for people in terms of qualtiy and parts melting and being useless for months.

I have yet to play it yet as I was up to 5:30AM trying to get everything up and running and solid. but once I get some sleep I"m excited to play it. I hope it doesn't melt down on me

-brian

#12670 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I can't imagine playing with those horrible blocks there.

Why? Because it is a tighter shot? I have no issue at all hitting it.

#12671 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Maybe yours was supposed to be that way like mine??
I wonder if I can just put an extra washer at the top of that post where the plastic spacer is next to the bracket to close the gap.
I'm still not convinced The scoop blinds are supposed to be tight with no movement.... like either it's supposed to move like this because other people's do, or it's just a common maintenance item that needs to be fixed when it gets loose. Obviously the delete option is there but looking SterlingRush instructions (thank you btw!).. It's a fair bit of work and I'm not there in my mind yet.
Maybe I'll ask Stern.

Remove the top plastic, so you can get to the two screws that hold the bracket into place. Tighten them down real good. That should take care of your problem. I have done it twice now. Second time I added a little bit of loctite.

Screenshot 2023-02-25 5.04.22 PM (resized).pngScreenshot 2023-02-25 5.04.22 PM (resized).png
#12672 1 year ago

Well they are a “lifestyle brand”..lol

Quoted from brzezicki:

I just got my Rush premium yesterday, I ended up spending 8 hours reading posts about the node10 boards and found mine had the "Bad" crimps so soldered everything together (thanks to the people to did that node 10 "issues and non-issues" that was great work!.) and checked the node10 connectors too those where good. I really am concerned about Sterns quality assurance though.
I had bought a GZ premium in November and after about 10 games the building fell off. apparently whoever assembled it assembled it wrong luckily it didn't break anything and I was able to get diagrams from Stern on how to reassemble it (some of the pieces that were there were NOT in the manual, but in one of their support docs)
This Rush, had screws laying in the bottom of the box, an airball deflector that wasn't screwed into ANY of the supports, the glass that has a really bad bevel that sounds like it's scratching when you put it in or out of the game. (I put mylar on to wrap it), bad crimps on that ramp, and a coin holder that wasn't secured and bounching around the underside of the game, I'm sure I"ll find more issues.
really sad for a 9-10K product and if your the designer you have to be pissed that such an apparently great game has had such a bad experience for people in terms of qualtiy and parts melting and being useless for months.
I have yet to play it yet as I was up to 5:30AM trying to get everything up and running and solid. but once I get some sleep I"m excited to play it. I hope it doesn't melt down on me
-brian

#12673 1 year ago
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:

Well they are a “lifestyle brand”..lol

lol. yeah.

#12674 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Why? Because it is a tighter shot? I have no issue at all hitting it.

No, the blocks make the scoop way more forgiving.

#12675 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Why? Because it is a tighter shot? I have no issue at all hitting it.

No. Mostly because I saw underneath those metal "protectors" and the damage already being done by them after only 50ish plays.

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#12676 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

No. Mostly because I saw underneath those metal "protectors" and the damage already being done by them after only 50ish plays.

26 plays in my experience

#12677 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

No. Mostly because I saw underneath those metal "protectors" and the damage already being done by them after

I shipped out 25 sets of Rush lampshades yesterday. I have about five more free sets available. So if anyone else would like a free set, please place an order before they are gone. [quoted image]

#12678 1 year ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

I shipped out 25 sets of Rush lampshades yesterday. I have about five more free sets available. So if anyone else would like a free set, please place an order before they are gone. [quoted image]

Received mine in the mail today and installed them. They look great! Thank you!!

#12679 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Received mine in the mail today and installed them. They look great! Thank you!!

You’re welcome! I’m glad they worked out well. I did hear from a friend of mine that the busb covers around the scoop came loose. He used a drip of superglue gel to secure them. I hope they stay put for you!

#12680 1 year ago

So to follow up on everything learned here from everybody on my loose scoop blinds on the lower scoop. If you have these scoop blinds, then this will be a key post for you to know that it's really super easy fix as has been suggested here. Thank you for all the discussion!

These are the lower scoop blinds with the snubbers that come loose .
Screenshot_20230226-175510 (resized).pngScreenshot_20230226-175510 (resized).png

So the fix from finman2000 was super easy on the top plastic over the scoops just remove the left two screws, the third screw on the bottom right You can just loosen and pivot the plastics around to get to the two screws on those posts both mine were loose so I cranked them down super tight and now my scoop blinds don't move at all.

Cranking them down closed the gap between The black plastic spacer and the top of the post thereby immobilizing the scoop blind bracket ( shown by the top two arrows in each picture below ) and the blinders are rock solid now like when I first got the machine.

If this keeps happening regularly I'll remove those post screws completely, and add some blue loctite as suggested, but I cranked them down pretty hard so let's see how that holds up because the fix is easy enough that I don't mind doing them again.

Here is finman2000 post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/254#post-7426786

Screenshot_20230225-210157 (resized).pngScreenshot_20230225-210157 (resized).pngScreenshot_20230226-092917 (resized).pngScreenshot_20230226-092917 (resized).png

#12681 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Remove the top plastic, so you can get to the two screws that hold the bracket into place. Tighten them down real good. That should take care of your problem. I have done it twice now. Second time I added a little bit of loctite.
[quoted image]

Credit where credit is due. This was the fix.
Thank you
Can we key post the post referenced above for future owners? PinMonk

#12682 1 year ago

My lower scoop was flopping around so much when I got the game, I wondered whether it was supposed to be like that.

But I figured out pretty quickly that that hardware was loose, and I tightened it up easily enough.

The post at the front of the inner loop was also very loose.

The coin box flopping around without its retention clip also had me worried, but I haven't noticed any damage, thankfully. Found the loose clip the first time I raised the pf. I shudder to think of all the unfortunate places that could have wound up!

#12684 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Credit where credit is due. This was the fix.
Thank you
Can we key post the post referenced above for future owners? PinMonk

What is that fixing?

#12685 1 year ago

PSA / reminder to owners to replace the garbage coil stops. My upper flipper started sticking so I opened her up ... all three of my coil stops were mangled and loose. My game has 1200 plays, FYI.

20230226_170655 (resized).jpg20230226_170655 (resized).jpg

Look inside for gold dust if you don't believe me.

20230226_170631 (resized).jpg20230226_170631 (resized).jpg
20230226_170638 (resized).jpg20230226_170638 (resized).jpg

I purchased replacements from Pinball Life; simple 2-screw R&R, for those who havent done it before. Take a moment and clean the sleeves & surrounding area while you're at it.

#12686 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

What is that fixing?

Loose lower scoop blinders with snubbers... They come loose over time and need tightening.
The blinders with snubbers are shown in the picture of that post..

Here's more detail in my post here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/254#post-7427898

#12687 1 year ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

PSA / reminder to owners to replace the garbage coil stops. My upper flipper started sticking so I opened her up ... all three of my coil stops were mangled and loose. My game has 1200 plays, FYI.
[quoted image]
Look inside for gold dust if you don't believe me.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I purchased replacements from Pinball Life; simple 2-screw R&R, for those who havent done it before. Take a moment and clean the sleeves & surrounding area while you're at it.

You getting 1200 plays is like winning the stern coil stops lottery. Mine crapped out at 500 or so. And, don't clean those sleeves , they are about .60 cents each, toss em

#12688 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

You getting 1200 plays is like winning the stern coil stops lottery. Mine crapped out at 500 or so. And, don't clean those sleeves , they are about .60 cents each, toss em

You beat me to it.

#12689 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

You getting 1200 plays is like winning the stern coil stops lottery. Mine crapped out at 500 or so. And, don't clean those sleeves , they are about .60 cents each, toss em

With shipping they are closer to 20 bucks for 3...
I'm wondering how many to keep on hand when I do come up with enough items to justify an order...
What else do I need in my kit from PL? Already got balls, and 3 coil stops a while ago.

#12690 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Loose lower scoop blinders with snubbers... They come loose over time and need tightening.
The blinders with snubbers are shown in the picture of that post..
Here's more detail in my post here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/254#post-7427898

I keyposted the original post. I just needed to know what it was for so I could explain it on the keypost line.

#12691 1 year ago

A cool little item my family got me for my birthday yesterday, made sure to include Rush in the background, so that it fits within this thread

A Pin Caddy 2 and a pretty cool clock for the game room. The Pin Caddy will be really nice, when working on raised playfields.

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#12692 1 year ago

11- Months and Game is still BROKE, 25-plays NIB, Stern refuses to send all new parts associated with Node-10, I have purchased 15- NIB Sterns in the past 2-1/2 years and currently have a JB-60-th coming, I consider myself a Customer that they would value, but clearly my business isn’t important. Everyone with a working game knock on wood!!! Something has seriously changed with Stern Pinball ever since Seth/Disney has taken over!!! I honestly want to bring my RUSH to TPF and hold up a sign letting everyone know Stern knowingly sells defective $10,000 pinball machines and does absolutely nothing to resolve the issue, they just keep deflecting emails . I kept being told “Its a process and we are working on it” 11- months of working on it.

#12693 1 year ago
Quoted from MJK-911:

11- Months and Game is still BROKE, 25-plays NIB, Stern refuses to send all new parts associated with Node-10, I have purchased 15- NIB Sterns in the past 2-1/2 years and currently have a JB-60-th coming, I consider myself a Customer that they would value, but clearly my business isn’t important.

I believe that Stern started mailing replacement motors and boards last week. There was an earlier post showing a warranty fix package being received and I believe there was a post above that shows a person installing the new warranty motor. I would give it another couple weeks and I would bet that you will receive the package from Stern.

#12694 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

With shipping they are closer to 20 bucks for 3...
I'm wondering how many to keep on hand when I do come up with enough items to justify an order...
What else do I need in my kit from PL? Already got balls, and 3 coil stops a while ago.

You can buy elsewhere, combine your order with next part supply, if you own, you'll need parts on hand

#12695 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

With shipping they are closer to 20 bucks for 3...
I'm wondering how many to keep on hand when I do come up with enough items to justify an order...
What else do I need in my kit from PL? Already got balls, and 3 coil stops a while ago.

That’s the time to fill in your order, with other random stuff you know you’ll need and use. Tools, nuts, t-nuts, bolts, nut drivers, glass corner protectors, shooter springs, misc, to make the order worth while.

#12696 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

You getting 1200 plays is like winning the stern coil stops lottery. Mine crapped out at 500 or so. And, don't clean those sleeves , they are about .60 cents each, toss em

lol, fair enough, though a good chunk of those games are short due to kids/guests lol. And yeah replacing the sleeves is a good option too!

#12697 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

I believe that Stern started mailing replacement motors and boards last week. There was an earlier post showing a warranty fix package being received and I believe there was a post above that shows a person installing the new warranty motor. I would give it another couple weeks and I would bet that you will receive the package from Stern.

If they're not fixing the wiring with the incorrect pins on the connector that are soldered instead of just crimped, the Node 10s are likely to blow again.

#12698 1 year ago
Quoted from MJK-911:

11- Months and Game is still BROKE, 25-plays NIB, Stern refuses to send all new parts associated with Node-10, I have purchased 15- NIB Sterns in the past 2-1/2 years and currently have a JB-60-th coming, I consider myself a Customer that they would value, but clearly my business isn’t important. Everyone with a working game knock on wood!!! Something has seriously changed with Stern Pinball ever since Seth/Disney has taken over!!! I honestly want to bring my RUSH to TPF and hold up a sign letting everyone know Stern knowingly sells defective $10,000 pinball machines and does absolutely nothing to resolve the issue, they just keep deflecting emails . I kept being told “Its a process and we are working on it” 11- months of working on it.

No offence, but why did you continue to spend money with a company who you perceive to be not taking your claim seriously ?

#12699 1 year ago
Quoted from ian866:

No offence, but why did you continue to spend money with a company who you perceive to be not taking your claim seriously ?

Agreed. I waited 9 months for a warranty 8node board but venting here doesn't really help in the big pic. It's tough, it's frustrating but doesn't solve much. We all have a nuclear button but how many times can we push the button? I still love pinball but accept the environment...

#12700 1 year ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

A cool little item my family got me for my birthday yesterday, made sure to include Rush in the background, so that it fits within this thread
A Pin Caddy 2 and a pretty cool clock for the game room. The Pin Caddy will be really nice, when working on raised playfields.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Where do they sell these?

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