I've submitted a request to Stern Support. We'll see what happens. I fixed mine long ago with the generic piece of foam fix (registers every time), but if they'll send out a factory authorized piece, why not?

Nope

I'm sure they are about to be flooded with requests! If I had known that was an option, I would have done the same! Free is always the best!

I've got you beat. I'm still waiting on parts since last march.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/128869

190/obo

Got bored so doing the Scoop Protector. Can anybody tell me on the underside of the playfield if there are (2) washers associated with the orange circled nut and the bottom-most nut circled in red. Ended up with extra pieces after having put this thing back together, lol.
The weird thing is that these 2 washers do not fit into the screws. The third washer and nut fit just fine (also circled in red)
Thx

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Thanks for this! Having that shot register makes a huge difference in the game!

A gift beyond price -- almost free!

The nuts circled in red and orange, each have one washer to them on bottom side, from factory.

Do you have your washers up top? Or swap them with what NinjaCamp provided?

Is your machine new or 2nd hand? Someone may have added extra washer(s) to the scoop, for various reasons.

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Thanks for the post. Bought it new quite awhile ago, but just now getting the ninjas in there. Thx

OK, power’s out, so I have time to follow up on my pics below. Just got done fixing our washer, power went out right as I started to take the first screw out. Yes, machine was unplugged

Basing my observations from my machine, using similar thinking from when I used to prep and splice fiber optics. It teaches you what to aware of, and what can/will cause potential problems with signal.

Anyway, below are additional pics I took, when checking my wiring for the ramp and clock, some time ago. Things I/others have mentioned previously, zip ties being too tight, how soft the sheathing is, on the wires coming of the mechs, checking pins are seated properly in the connectors, ect...

While doing this, the ramp has a small blessing, the soft sheathing only goes from motor, to the first connector(approx 8”), then harder sheathed wire back to the Node board.

The clock on the other hand, doesn’t have any protection going back to the Node board, other than that soft sheathing. Not only zip ties, but other elements can potentially be pinching/breaking the stranded wire, along that path. On mine, I noticed the hole of the playfield and cable clamp, being a potentially bad spot, as the two other wire looms are so tight, they were pinching the soft wires against the wood, both top and bottom side. Be sure to examine how your moving or placing wire around there, as I can see that causing headaches.

So what I did, was free those wires with soft sheathing, and wrapped plastic spiral tubing around them. Keeps them together and safe, extra protection at the hole of the playfield. Did the same for the ramp, just to keep the wires together vs hanging loose.

Not saying this is THE fix, as none of us truly know yet, but wanted to share additional info I observed. I agree, the ramp moves a lot more vs the clock, but the clock wires have literally 0.000012 protection on them.

Things to keep in mind.

I’ll resort the pics, once I’m back at my computer.

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Regarding ongoing Node 10 failures. There’s a whole bunch of settings for the motor drives on the ramp and clock. Given the recent failure of a game with only the ramp connected, it’s pretty good evidence that it’s the ramp portion of the board is the one causing problems. This also makes sense given that the ramp motor is going to drive more mass and hence, draw more current (the clock is only moving the hand).

I have an LE build, no issues so far but only about 300 games. As a test, I’ve lowered the ramp movement and hold power (to 90 and 100, respectively from I think 130 and 150?). I couldn’t see any difference in ramp operation during play. My theory is some combination of current impulse is blowing the chip on the node 10 board. Anything to lower these is a good thing. I also think there’s a setting related to ramp timing? I may dial that back as well.

In the absence of something concrete from Stern, I appreciate the community contributing ideas and suggestions. I’ll run with these parameters and see what happens.

Found three of my Rush tickets!

1982 signals
1984 grace under pressure
1997 test for echo

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I have a number of mine on the backglass. Couldn't fit them all.

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Has anybody installed the Myth Pinball speaker light kit. I watched the video for the Iron Maiden machine (which was impressive), just curious how it looks on the Rush machine.

I put the ninja lights in and they are unreal!. But you need the expression lights first, and for the life of me I can't understand why they are not available yet

Ya, I was intrigued by the Myth Pinball setup. Under 200 bucks seems like a decent price in the mod world.

What will the price of the expression lights be? Is that known? Also do they work on the pro model?

Thanks.

Regarding the tickets, j_m_ was creating magnets of ticket stubs. He made a replica of the ticket stub from my first Rush show. That was back in the day when you had to sleep out to get good tickets. We had second row!

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I believe 499 bucks and they will work on the pro. Expensive, but when you see them it's worth the cost

Excited for this for my pro!
Already got my order in for NinjaCamp's expression lights speaker kit and expression lights under cabinet kit to tie into these when I can finally get a set!

Also ordered the exit stage left mod since I'm under 6'4"

That's really cool. I would do this if I didn't already put the Neil tribute plaque there.

Was that the p/g tour?

It's definitely worth it - I just sold my LZ but the lights and music were the best part of that pin!

I agree. Has a zepp le, was fun, but gone now. I have the ninja speaker lights now and the under cab lights ordered. Seizure time for sure!!

He made mine also from my R30 tour ticket.

I love it!

To be clear, Stern is NOT sending these out to everyone. Just reached out them and the one that was made was a one-off and they have no official fix for the inner orbit yet. So if you want one now, you must buy one from one of the sellers on Pinside.

Yeah, Support replied back that it wasn't an "official" fix. I told them send it to me anyway. We'll see.

Remember when scoop protection dominated this forum? As mentioned, I have been a bit lazy in this regard....well actually time has been dominated with node board problems, but that is a different thread.... anyhow, after many, many months got the Ninja protectors installed. Looks great and should have done it long ago. Question: how has been the durability for those who installed way back? Thx

The Ninja protectors Have been a success for Me.I would Buy them if you havent already.

I heard from a dealer that Stern will NOT be making any expression lighting side blades for the Premiums/Pros as parts are no longer available. So getting the LZ kit may be a good idea before they are sold out completely. Not sure if the LZ kits were made in advance for any new LZ premiums coming off the line.

That stinks. They really up the fun and game immersion.

I've already ordered the ninja expression kits for my pro and no Stern kits for sale ever?? This has to be a bad rumor.

Maybe if this is true, Someone can step up and copy the board and lights and make a small fortune.

Parts are NLA? That's fucked up right there.

So if something fails with my Expression Lighting on my LE, I should just pound sand? Said it before and I'll say it again, first and last Stern I will ever buy. This is a joke of a company and consumers would do well to steer clear of these shitbirds.

Need more confirmation before we all jump off the cliff. But the lz ones looks just fine people are saying
.

Went to install a shaker motor for my Rush (Pro) and I'm not seeing any pre-drilled holes. Am I missing something?

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other side?

A drill ? ( sorry )

Same here, they told me to adjust my switch. I informed them I’ve done that many times. There needs to be a physical devise made that holds the ball down to register the switch.

Currently run an MRS switch which is wonderful for keeping stuck balls down to a minimum, but even it can’t register a rollover when the ball is a few MM over the switch.

Guess they were all smokin' the same stuff.

So I wonder can you use the top lights part from LZ and do something RUSH for the bottom half?
Or, can you do LZ, and then modify some Rush Art Blades and punch out holes for the lights and layer on top?

Thats definitely the right side and the correct side.
Looks like they forgot to drill your holes.
You can place the shaker there and use a Sharpie to mark the holes, I guess.
However, you will need some longer bolts and nuts or Tnuts or something because I believe they are also supposed to be pre-tapped with T-nuts from the factory to accept the shaker bolts.
Does it look clean and undrilled on the bottom also?

One of a few reasons I went for the LE from the get go. I knew getting aftermarket expression lighting for RUSH was going to be a pain in the ass and take forever….shame really - this game is almost a year old.

Did the same,no regrets. No #10 issues either, I've been pretty lucky with Stern pins.

The holes are there. I can see the outlines. Punch out the little bit of wood left in them from underneath, then screw down your shaker. Nearly every newer Stern has this same issue - the hole punch doesn't completely remove the leftover bit of wood.

Man your eyes are good. I blew that pic up and thought I was seeing 1 but talked myself into it being a wood knot!
I did have to poke the wood out of mine but they were punched out enough to be clear and obvious they were there.

Good call.

Wonder what parts aren't available? The LEDs are generic. So something on the node 2 board?

Look under the cab. Sometimes they kiss the inside so the hole doesn't poke through inside. You should see the T-nuts installed underneath.

Then again, they could have forgotten to drill and T-nut yours...

If you have or are planning on getting the Expression lighting from Stern and don't mind doing the 5.25" speaker upgrade if you do not already have 5.25" speakers, I would hold out to do that and get the Ninja Camp Expressive speaker lights. They really add to the effect of the factory Expression lights and combined, make a powerful interactive light and sound experience.

If you are just wanting some great looking speaker lights that light the entire grill area (and you are not looking for switchable flame colors), I would get my Deluxe SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kit. It has individually addressable LEDs, 358 different color / color transition patterns (8 of which can be saved on a DIY / favorites list for easy access or auto switching), all at a lower price ($85).

Except for the instances I just mentioned (Expression lighting or wanting switchable flame colors) if you are looking for a fully lit grill type, SPIKE 2 speaker light kit with the most available options, my Deluxe SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits have that covered.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

I agree, it be good if some other dealers could confirm either way.

Couldn't agree more. My last Stern. They screwed over the Premium buyers with no Expression lights, charged us more than what LZ was with the lights, had to buy the Ninja Mod to keep my slightly planked playfield from getting messed up and now I have my clock and ramp off to keep the Node 10 board from blowing. GARBAGE!!!!