(Topic ID: 308430)

RUSH Pinball Official Owners Club-“Straining the Limits of Machine and Man”

By mrossman5

2 years ago


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36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 18,138 posts in this topic. You are on page 234 of 363.
#11651 1 year ago
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:

Well, you have a nice collection to spread your attention too…would be better if you still had your Iron Maiden and LZ tho

I keep thinkin of an all rock lineup, but need to find an affordable kiss le to start. Prob not happenin.

#11652 1 year ago

I kinda think have been thinking a new thread so we don’t keep derailing this thread..but I don’t want people to lose sight of the issue.

#11653 1 year ago
Quoted from metal-mods:

Now that we're getting a short list of Node 10 failures/non-failures going here, should we:
a) Create a key post and copy/paste each game's info into that?
b) Devote a new thread with the info?
Also, maybe mention if there's any electronic mods, if wires have been imspected etc.
Another thought- do these blown boards have any identifying info which might denote a batch number?

What you DONT want to do is list any mods, Stern will use that as an out, just like the automobile industry does. And I think they word their warranty as such

#11654 1 year ago

Yeah, probably scratch that info.

#11655 1 year ago

My Rush is bone stock

#11657 1 year ago

Whatsa mod?

#11658 1 year ago

Force flow is a mod

#11659 1 year ago
Quoted from wcbrandes:

Quoted from mmuglia:
I built this topper today. It came out nice with cyan blue LED strip.
[quoted image]

Where did you get the owl?

No doubt here:

https://www.wayfair.com/decor-pillows/pdp/design-toscano-owl-wall-decor-txg9108.html

#11660 1 year ago
Quoted from mmuglia:

I built this topper today. It came out nice with cyan blue LED strip.
[quoted image]

Awesome!!! I bought this guy too but haven't had a chance to put it together. Thanks for some motivation!

#11661 1 year ago
Quoted from Photopin:

I've had an intermittent problem with the optos on my ramp reading correctly. When I had my ramp out the other day to replace the rubber bumpers, I noticed the optos don't quite line up with the holes in the sides of the ramp. It's like only a small portion of the opto lens is visible through the hole.
Has anyone else noticed this?

Had the same issue and it turned out to be some cut wires shorting due to the infamous zip ties that seem to be plaguing Rush. Might be worth a look....

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/215#post-7248850

#11662 1 year ago

That took me longer than it should have

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Force flow is a mod

#11663 1 year ago
Quoted from mmuglia:

I built this topper today. It came out nice with cyan blue LED strip.
[quoted image]

I bought the owl on Amazon.

Design Toscano JQ9623 Mystical Spirit Owl Wall Sculpture, Full Color https://a.co/d/bQKAzjQ

#11664 1 year ago
Quoted from mmuglia:

I bought the owl on Amazon.
Design Toscano JQ9623 Mystical Spirit Owl Wall Sculpture, Full Color https://a.co/d/bQKAzjQ

Nice.

Tempting but may be owl overkill with my pro translite.

#11665 1 year ago

I finally got some time to dig in pulled the ramp harness. There was some definite crimping of the wires..but nothing like what I saw when I pulled the clock.

Also noticed a lot of loose wires going into the connectors.

03A8568E-D8CF-44FA-BAE8-00232CA0048A (resized).jpeg03A8568E-D8CF-44FA-BAE8-00232CA0048A (resized).jpeg5F8D7CB4-3A15-439B-B901-37DC78DD1825 (resized).jpeg5F8D7CB4-3A15-439B-B901-37DC78DD1825 (resized).jpeg79FF4C6B-A8D1-4E60-B49D-7F18959CE4FF (resized).jpeg79FF4C6B-A8D1-4E60-B49D-7F18959CE4FF (resized).jpegE0B6E779-7CAD-4758-9450-1D55C4472A0D (resized).jpegE0B6E779-7CAD-4758-9450-1D55C4472A0D (resized).jpegF7349E05-7CB3-4F27-9AFB-228F1EDCEECB (resized).jpegF7349E05-7CB3-4F27-9AFB-228F1EDCEECB (resized).jpeg
#11666 1 year ago
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:

I finally got some time to dig in pulled the ramp harness. There was some definite crimping of the wires..but nothing like what I saw when I pulled the clock.
Also noticed a lot of loose wires going into the connectors.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

dang i wish you guys were not having to deal with this . i have a pro but still .

#11667 1 year ago

I went thru my wiring last night. Although the zip ties were tight, they were THAT tight.

Aside from the loose pin I found in the connector the other day, I’ve found no issues.

On another front, my IC node crapped out and prevents the entire game from booting unless you disconnect Node 4.

86A3B058-D5A1-4FD8-B0DC-84FF39D23713 (resized).jpeg86A3B058-D5A1-4FD8-B0DC-84FF39D23713 (resized).jpeg
#11668 1 year ago
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:

I finally got some time to dig in pulled the ramp harness. There was some definite crimping of the wires..but nothing like what I saw when I pulled the clock.
Also noticed a lot of loose wires going into the connectors.

This is why I was saying people need to check both the ramp and the clock wiring. Either one could cause the Node 10 failure because both steppers are driven by it.

Stern should be sending out replacement steppers with a new wiring harness along with the Node 10 boards; preferably not produced during the same period as these batches.

#11669 1 year ago
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:

I finally got some time to dig in pulled the ramp harness. There was some definite crimping of the wires..but nothing like what I saw when I pulled the clock.
Also noticed a lot of loose wires going into the connectors.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow, those look pretty messed up. You had a node 10 failure. Did Stern say to do that examination? Will they replace the torqued wires/ components? I looked at mine, but that seems like a lot of zip tie cutting and playfield disassembly to get to where you are. I'm apprehensive. Visual inspection "looks" OK (what can be seen), but the zip ties are not loose.

I have a premium with -1600 plays and no node issues so far (knock on wood).

20230103_165646 (resized).jpg20230103_165646 (resized).jpg
#11670 1 year ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Does anyone know of someone who can do node board repair on Stern games? I realize this brings up warranty issues, etc., and that this isn't specifically a RUSH question, but I think I saw a note at some point on this thread about someone who does node board repair. Any leads appreciated.

I've done both node board and CPU board repairs, but there are limits to what can be done. The problem in some cases, like Node 10, the microcontroller is damaged along with the stepper motor driver chip (and probably other chips due to probable voltage regulator failure). While these parts can be replaced, the microcontroller needs bootloader/initial firmware installed. Without that code and the programming tools to load it into the chip, it's useless.

Also, many power related chips, such as voltage regulators and stepper motor driver chips, have a large thermal pad on the bottom (between the chip and the PCB which eliminates the need for a heatsink) which is very difficult to de-solder even with the best equipment. A reflow oven would be ideal for that, but you then have to remove all of the connectors and anything else that would melt beforehand, then reinstall afterwards. So in the end, the board gets a lot of heat stress and other components can fail during the process, it's not worth it. The boards are designed to be manufactured inexpensively and that precludes being able to easily repair them.

I only attempt Node/CPU repairs as a absolute last resort and only if I think there is a high likelihood of success. (Take that as a "I'm not interested in repairing any Spike system boards".)

#11671 1 year ago
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:

I finally got some time to dig in pulled the ramp harness. There was some definite crimping of the wires..but nothing like what I saw when I pulled the clock.
Also noticed a lot of loose wires going into the connectors.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for sharing the pics, this will help others down the road.

#11672 1 year ago

Stern is some of the Smartest People or The Dumbest People !!! Thanks for the replacement Node-10 with instructions to /how to install it. Seriously? It will blow again!!! Hey STERN!!!!!! Just send out all new parts that Node-10 deals with!!! Stop being Cheap !!! The sale of 1 -Bond -60th would cover all the cost and then some!!!! Get this Nightmare over with!!!!

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#11673 1 year ago

In today's Stern Of The Union Address (full YT vid below this screen cap):

This is beyond sick . . .

strangiato12b.jpgstrangiato12b.jpg

#11674 1 year ago
Quoted from SonicZone:

In today's Stern Of The Union Address (full YT vid below this screen cap):
This is beyond sick . . .
[quoted image]

Pretty sure Dalton has a 88 billions game on his twitch channel. But yeah those 2 are blowing this game up. Dalton is after a 100 bill run now

I was watching the other day he pushes his mode multiplier to 1000% crazy

#11675 1 year ago

Rush is not in the production plan for 2023. Interesting decision...

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#11676 1 year ago
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:

I finally got some time to dig in pulled the ramp harness. There was some definite crimping of the wires..but nothing like what I saw when I pulled the clock.
Also noticed a lot of loose wires going into the connectors.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Good finds. This is consistent with thr concern from the start… intermittent connectivity is thought to be behind the failures. Wire damage like that could have broken conductors.

People here keep talking about nicked insulation… the concern should be connectors and broken conductors.

I hope you cut out those sections in the wires and resecured with good physicality supported repairs.

#11677 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Rush is not in the production plan for 2023. Interesting decision...

Uh... What? Who said what?
Don't make me watch it, I'll watch it later... cliff notes pls?

#11678 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Uh... What? Who said what?
Don't make me watch it, I'll watch it later... cliff notes pls?

On the Pinball Show, Zach shared the 2023 Stern production schedule. Rush was not on it.

#11679 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

On the Pinball Show, Zach shared the 2023 Stern production schedule. Rush was not on it.

Thanks. That IS interesting.

#11680 1 year ago
Quoted from Peak-Pin:

I've done both node board and CPU board repairs, but there are limits to what can be done. The problem in some cases, like Node 10, the microcontroller is damaged along with the stepper motor driver chip (and probably other chips due to probable voltage regulator failure). While these parts can be replaced, the microcontroller needs bootloader/initial firmware installed. Without that code and the programming tools to load it into the chip, it's useless.

Also, many power related chips, such as voltage regulators and stepper motor driver chips, have a large thermal pad on the bottom (between the chip and the PCB which eliminates the need for a heatsink) which is very difficult to de-solder even with the best equipment. A reflow oven would be ideal for that, but you then have to remove all of the connectors and anything else that would melt beforehand, then reinstall afterwards. So in the end, the board gets a lot of heat stress and other components can fail during the process, it's not worth it. The boards are designed to be manufactured inexpensively and that precludes being able to easily repair them.

I only attempt Node/CPU repairs as a absolute last resort and only if I think there is a high likelihood of success. (Take that as a "I'm not interested in repairing any Spike system boards".)

Thanks very much for the detailed and illuminating answer.

#11681 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

On the Pinball Show, Zach shared the 2023 Stern production schedule. Rush was not on it.

Lots of gaps in that schedule still - I'm sure they will add a run of pros and premiums.

#11682 1 year ago

Good morning. I reported awhile back that the nylon tip on the plunger for the right scoop snapped off. Currently Stern, Pinball Life, and Marco do not have this in stock. Currently I have to wait for ball search every time which basically makes the game not fun to play. Theguyoverthere could we get a software adjustment option to completely disable the upper right scoop so it behaves like the pro and always routes to the front scoop for eject? That would be amazing! Thanks.

#11683 1 year ago

My record boost % so far!

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#11684 1 year ago
Quoted from thekaiser82:

Currently Stern, Pinball Life, and Marco do not have this in stock.

There's plenty of plunger assemblies available from these sources (search "plunger assembly" to see a long list). Just buy one with a longer nylon attachment and cut to length. I keep a few of these as spares in my parts bin.

example: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-7309-00

#11685 1 year ago
Quoted from DiabloRush:

There's plenty of plunger assemblies available from these sources (search "plunger assembly" to see a long list). Just buy one with a longer nylon attachment and cut to length. I keep a few of these as spares in my parts bin.
example: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-7309-00

Ahh. Good point.

#11686 1 year ago

Not as bad as the previous photos; however still not beautiful. On your other games are the zip ties tied so tight that they crimp and deform the wires?

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#11687 1 year ago

Note the area around the white connection terminal. My last burned board did not have this, but this one does. Can somebody confirm that this terminal is solely for the ramp? Thanks

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#11688 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Not as bad as the previous photos; however still not beautiful. On your other games are the zip ties tied so tight that they crimp and deform the wires?
[quoted image][quoted image]

As has been noted previously, with the insulation that compressed, you could have some broken wire strands and will want to address that before putting in another Node board. Those wires should either have the damaged section removed and spliced if you have the tools and knowledge--I usually use a lineman splice for strength--or the harness should be replaced.

As for your second post, those 4-pin connectors are for the Clock and Ramp steppers, only. I'd have to open mine up to trace which header controls which stepper.

#11689 1 year ago

Rush LE #0189 built 2/17/22 , 522 total plays. No problems yet.

#11690 1 year ago
Quoted from benime:

I'd have to open mine up to trace which header controls which stepper.

I am fairly certain the white terminal (furthest right and with burn mark) goes to the motor and the other white terminal (furthest left and no burn residue) goes to the drum clock.

#11691 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Note the area around the white connection terminal. My last burned board did not have this, but this one does. Can somebody confirm that this terminal is solely for the ramp? Thanks[quoted image]

Last night I removed all of the wire ties from the harnesses on both stepper motors. The insulation was compressed slightly in one section, but nothing to the degree shown in your pictures. I also completely agree with @benime. If this were my machine, I would cut the damaged sections out of the wires, and splice the undamaged sections together by soldering and using heat shrink.

I have around 575 plays on my premium, which has an April 2022 build date. No issues so far with my Node 10 board (knock on wood).

Jeff

#11692 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

I am fairly certain the white terminal (furthest right and with burn mark) goes to the motor and the other white terminal (furthest left and no burn residue) goes to the drum clock.

Correct. In your picture, the ramp stepper is on the right, and drum stepper is on the left.

Jeff

#11693 1 year ago

I started a node board 10 list thread if anyone wants to start keeping track of these issues.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rush-node-board-10-issues-and-non-issues-list#post-7330957

#11694 1 year ago

Just a friendly reminder: TWIPY voting is live: https://twipys.com/2022-twipys-ballot/

If they had a category for "the more you play it, the more you love it" - Rush would ace it.

22
#11695 1 year ago

F*ck this game is good. I'm enjoying this more than any recent Stern. And I'm not a Rush die-hard. Just a pinball die-hard.

#11696 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Note the area around the white connection terminal. My last burned board did not have this, but this one does. Can somebody confirm that this terminal is solely for the ramp? Thanks[quoted image]

Just because the connector has residue from the exploded chip doesn't necessarily mean that connector (ramp) is what blew the chip.

It still could be either motor causing the problems. So you gotta check the wire insulation, connector crimp pins, and wire ties on both motors. Cut and splice out any wire damage caused by the gorilla operating the wire tie gun.

Based on your previous photo, your red wire on the drum is highly suspect for internal breakage.

#11697 1 year ago
Quoted from Peak-Pin:

Based on your previous photo, your red wire on the drum is highly suspect for internal breakage.

I agree. I dismantled the clock and put it back together. That red wire was the worst of the lot. Honestly, all the wires going to and from the ramp motor look OK and the connections are OK as well.

So, in order to narrow this problem down, I disconnected the drum clock from the node board and installed board number three. If it burns up again then the issue is from some unseen problem with the ramp motor. If I have no issues then the drum clock was the culprit.

#11698 1 year ago
Quoted from Ten31:

I increased the coil power a bit. Loosening the screws and moving the scoop didn't always give consistent results. Upping the coil power moved it away from SDTM much more effectively.

So I've tried the other fixes mentioned in this thread such as adding a washer to the left side of the scoop and trying to rotate the entire thing counter clockwise. Both seemed to marginally improve things but I'm still having trouble with balls getting fired at the very tip of the right flipper. So now I'm ready to bump the coil power back up again. Just worried about blowing a coil or transistor turning the power up too high.

How high did you have to turn the coil power up in order to effectively stop the scoop from firing balls to the very top of the flipper?

#11699 1 year ago

Make sure the eject solenoid is hitting the ball square and not to the side- mine was way off.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/204#post-7194746

#11700 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Rush is not in the production plan for 2023. Interesting decision...

It seems like there's plenty of stock everywhere. There's no point in making more if there's no need, and people are still clamoring for other pins that aren't available.

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