(Topic ID: 308430)

RUSH Pinball Official Owners Club-“Straining the Limits of Machine and Man”

By mrossman5

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

Screenshot_20240712_181642_Stern IC (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20240712_083836_Stern IC (resized).jpg
IMG_5915.png
IMG_5914.jpeg
IMG_5913.jpeg
IMG_2424 (resized).jpeg
C740E854-F052-4B40-AC8E-C84F16038349 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5732.jpeg
IMG_5730.jpeg
IMG_4997.jpeg
IMG_4991.jpeg
IMG_4987.jpeg
IMG_4990.jpeg
IMG_4986.jpeg
E71D06CA-8B5A-4D2A-8EEF-9630F8B283DC (resized).jpeg
F0D80942-3C46-45F1-9873-6B6D89C9A26D (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 18,138 posts in this topic. You are on page 231 of 363.
#11501 1 year ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

Who has a good t-shirt design idea for the Node 10 failure club?

Welcome to the club, new member!

#11502 1 year ago

Regarding the tshirt: Vital Signs comes to mind:
The impulse is pure
Sometimes our circuits get shorted
By external interference

#11503 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

It's all good. I think I'll go play Rush and listen to how extraordinary it sounds

Sorry - didn't mean to stir up anything. I'll take a look at pinwoofer again.

Appreciate both comments.

Quoted from benime:

Priced so similar? In what world?
Separate Meanwell power supply for backbox to power amp (bonus, can run mods off of it) - $25
Speakers (lots of options) - ~$70
Subwoofer (again, lots of options) - ~$70
Amplifier (again, lots of options) - $50-???
I spent roughly HALF the cost of what you're proposing and I would wager it sounds just as good, if not better, since it isn't using a $10 aliexpress amplifier. I'm also not using a DC-DC buck converter that was probably grabbed off of OSHPark or PCBWay, so I can run my mods off a separate power supply.
Do you work on commission or something?

#11504 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Regarding the tshirt: Vital Signs comes to mind:
The impulse is pure
Sometimes our circuits get shorted
By external interference

That’s a good one - much more subtle than my thought of Far Cry: “You can almost feel the current flowing\You can almost see the circuits blowing”!

#11505 1 year ago
Quoted from kool1:

Sorry - didn't mean to stir up anything. I'll take a look at pinwoofer again.
Appreciate both comments.

You didn't stir up anything. A pinwoofer kit, plug and play with awesome support is about 400 bucks. A diy will cost 250 to 300 all in. If you're comfortable with that then go for it. Ive had them on pins for close to 4 years with not a single hiccup. And, I am always happy to support the modders on this site, whether it's pinwoofer, ninja, mezel, lermods, etc. Or , you can do neither and wonder how good Rush can really sound

#11506 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

How do your wires look by the ramp ? damaged ?

One thing that is noticeable is the position of the connectors in the block, some look as though they have pushed back a little.

Not for one minute saying this is the cause, but it could point to a contact point that is making and breaking. Would be a good idea to push those pins forward and lock them into the block securely.

7fd29357a8096907d6c90efb4d4fd15b97424811 (resized).jpeg7fd29357a8096907d6c90efb4d4fd15b97424811 (resized).jpeg
#11507 1 year ago

I’ll check out wiring at the ramp in a bit - looking at the pic again it does look like the black wires in those two connectors are backed out of the housings a bit compared to red/green/blue. I’ll snug those up. As for the connectors on the node themselves, I had everything loosened/jiggled around while trying to get a good pic.

Already heard back from Greg at FnO - he’s getting my case submitted today. Seems like I’m in good hands.

#11508 1 year ago

I got my LE last week. A friend referred me to another local to repair his Node 10 issues. After reviewing the Node 10 failures issue on Rush, I immediately check the wiring on my game. One of the pins for the Time Machine in the connector at Node 10 was loose.

A6E4438A-DD11-484E-B8B1-FCC05A8A2B2A (resized).jpegA6E4438A-DD11-484E-B8B1-FCC05A8A2B2A (resized).jpeg
#11509 1 year ago
Quoted from tktlwyr:

I got my LE last week. A friend referred me to another local to repair his Node 10 issues. After reviewing the Node 10 failures issue on Rush, I immediately check the wiring on my game. One of the pins for the Time Machine in the connector at Node 10 was loose.
[quoted image]

Check the wires for both the Drum Clock and Ramp since they both are driven by the Node 10 board. What you want to check for are:

* Loose connector pins at both ends; remove the connectors from the board and gently tug the wires to see if any of the pins pull out. If they do, take a jeweler's flathead screwdriver and press the retaining tab on the top of the pin out, then reinsert. Test by pulling on the wire again.

* If you have them available, remove and redo the zipties on each cable; this is a bit trickier but you'll want to look for pinched cables. The insulation doesn't need to be broken for failures to occur, if the zip ties were too tight then individual conductor strands may have broken and increased resistance in the cable. If you're seeing deep indentations on the insulation, especially on more than one wire, I'd say replace them.

#11510 1 year ago

So we should tug slightly on all connectors to see if something is loose. This has been BS!!! The longer Stern keeps silent the longer I keep posting EVERYWHERE I can about this Issue. All new parts should have been mailed out by now!!! Get the old parts back to analyze, correct the issue. IDK be Professional about it !!

#11511 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

You didn't stir up anything. A pinwoofer kit, plug and play with awesome support is about 400 bucks. A diy will cost 250 to 300 all in. If you're comfortable with that then go for it. Ive had them on pins for close to 4 years with not a single hiccup. And, I am always happy to support the modders on this site, whether it's pinwoofer, ninja, mezel, lermods, etc. Or , you can do neither and wonder how good Rush can really sound

I'm wondering if the DIY solution can control the various channels? The pinwoofer connects directly into the Stern soundboard through an electronic daughter board. It has knobs to control bass level , bass frequency, back box volume, and treble, plus overall pw volume independent of pin volume. And it has a line out for sub. Can a DIY solution give you all those fine-tune controls? I imagine it's just an amplifier only, obviously bass and treble are on an amp, and line out, but sub control independent of speakers and back box volume? Not sure.

#11512 1 year ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

That’s a good one - much more subtle than my thought of Far Cry: “You can almost feel the current flowing\You can almost see the circuits blowing”!

While Vital Signs is an awesome song (side B doesn't get enough appreciation), I don't think there needs to be anything subtle about this. Stern has dropped the ball and is just making it worse by hiding whatever information they have. It's unbelievable that an electrical engineer with access to schematics, trace layouts, datasheets, etc. wouldn't be able to figure this out. My guess it's just too expensive to fix and they just want a quick hack/work-around.

#11513 1 year ago

Okay two things. I'm hearing a mode start with a call out for Bastille Day and it's counting down. I'm supposed to do something to collect a jackpot? Eventually at times out and I know I've lost the opportunity to collect it but I just don't know what to do. What's going on and what is my objective?

Two, I still don't understand the diverter. I see it switch automatically and I also see a settings about the aggressiveness of the switching. I've just left it on auto. I thought the action button would switch that diverter but I don't know when that is effective because I'm pressing the action to expect it to switch the diverter but it doesn't really Do anything and I suspect it's because I'm just not pressing the action at the right time? Not that I understand when to switch right now but that's beside the point. I'm just trying to see the action button actually operate the diverter.

Enjoying the game more and more as I start to get familiar with the playfield. Plays so fast.
Just found the humor mode and maxed it. That turns up the entertainment for sure.

Got the quiet fan and voodoo glass, definitely creature comfort improvements... Although I can't believe how tight stern glass is. Feel like I'm going to break it ... And the voodoo glass was even tighter. I'm not sure I'll ever be able to get it out again. Lol

I'm not a big fan of the cheap feeling shooter rod. If there was a upgrade mod for that and a better spring, I'd be in.

I haven't figured out how to get in jukebox attract mode or if there is even one of those? I see DJ mix and some other settings in there but I'm not sure what those mean. If they're related to this then I just don't know how to activate the jukebox mode.

Lots to learn for my first stern.

#11514 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Okay two things. I'm hearing a mode start with a call out for Bastille Day and it's counting down. I'm supposed to do something to collect a jackpot? Eventually at times out and I know I've lost the opportunity to collect it but I just don't know what to do. What's going on and what is my objective?
Two, I still don't understand the diverter. I see it switch automatically and I also see a settings about the aggressiveness of the switching. I've just left it on auto. I thought the action button would switch that diverter but I don't know when that is effective because I'm pressing the action to expect it to switch the diverter but it doesn't really Do anything and I suspect it's because I'm just not pressing the action at the right time? Not that I understand when to switch right now but that's beside the point. I'm just trying to see the action button actually operate the diverter.
Enjoying the game more and more as I start to get familiar with the playfield. Plays so fast.
Just found the humor mode and maxed it. That turns up the entertainment for sure.
Got the quiet fan and voodoo glass, definitely creature comfort improvements... Although I can't believe how tight stern glass is. Feel like I'm going to break it ... And the voodoo glass was even tighter. I'm not sure I'll ever be able to get it out again. Lol
I'm not a big fan of the cheap feeling shooter rod. If there was a upgrade mod for that and a better spring, I'd be in.
I haven't figured out how to get in jukebox attract mode or if there is even one of those? I see DJ mix and some other settings in there but I'm not sure what those mean. If they're related to this then I just don't know how to activate the jukebox mode.
Lots to learn for my first stern.

Jukebox, power on game, hold both flip buttons, then cycle thru options

#11515 1 year ago

Diverter is only active if the flasher on left or right is on. Let's you have option to which flipper you want ball to come to. I pretty much don't use it

#11516 1 year ago

I made a shooter , drawer knob off ebay

20221229_094020 (resized).jpg20221229_094020 (resized).jpg20221229_094026 (resized).jpg20221229_094026 (resized).jpg

#11517 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Okay two things. I'm hearing a mode start with a call out for Bastille Day and it's counting down. I'm supposed to do something to collect a jackpot? Eventually at times out and I know I've lost the opportunity to collect it but I just don't know what to do. What's going on and what is my objective?

Bastille day is hit rush standup targets for the value counting down on screen. hit all to reset and get more points.

#11518 1 year ago

If anyone has a blown node 10 board that they didn’t have to send back to stern can you PM me? I’d like to try replacing the blown chip to see if that’s all it takes to fix the board.

#11519 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Okay two things. I'm hearing a mode start with a call out for Bastille Day and it's counting down. I'm supposed to do something to collect a jackpot? Eventually at times out and I know I've lost the opportunity to collect it but I just don't know what to do. What's going on and what is my objective?
Two, I still don't understand the diverter. I see it switch automatically and I also see a settings about the aggressiveness of the switching. I've just left it on auto. I thought the action button would switch that diverter but I don't know when that is effective because I'm pressing the action to expect it to switch the diverter but it doesn't really Do anything and I suspect it's because I'm just not pressing the action at the right time? Not that I understand when to switch right now but that's beside the point. I'm just trying to see the action button actually operate the diverter.
Enjoying the game more and more as I start to get familiar with the playfield. Plays so fast.
Just found the humor mode and maxed it. That turns up the entertainment for sure.
Got the quiet fan and voodoo glass, definitely creature comfort improvements... Although I can't believe how tight stern glass is. Feel like I'm going to break it ... And the voodoo glass was even tighter. I'm not sure I'll ever be able to get it out again. Lol
I'm not a big fan of the cheap feeling shooter rod. If there was a upgrade mod for that and a better spring, I'd be in.
I haven't figured out how to get in jukebox attract mode or if there is even one of those? I see DJ mix and some other settings in there but I'm not sure what those mean. If they're related to this then I just don't know how to activate the jukebox mode.
Lots to learn for my first stern.

Glass issue: pull glass out, each side rail has two outside screws in the middle, and one bolt at either end. Loosen each just a touch, and see if the fixes your tightness issue. Note, the bolt closest to backbox, you’ll need to lower the backbox down to get access to them.

If not that, does your glass have anti-rattle tape on the edges? That also causes severe tightness.

Diverter: you won’t see movement hitting the action button, it just tells the machine which outlane you want the ball dropping into, when you hit the right ramp. Action button also engages the weapon, when you’ve collected it.

#11520 1 year ago
Quoted from Ten31:

While Vital Signs is an awesome song (side B doesn't get enough appreciation), I don't think there needs to be anything subtle about this. Stern has dropped the ball and is just making it worse by hiding whatever information they have. It's unbelievable that an electrical engineer with access to schematics, trace layouts, datasheets, etc. wouldn't be able to figure this out. My guess it's just too expensive to fix and they just want a quick hack/work-around.

I still hold that an inline daughter board should be designed and sent out to every premium/LE owner and added to every new machine built that has a fuseable circuit where the fuse takes the hit rather than that chip on the node 10 board. come on stern, make it so (and make it right)

it seems like the smarter solution and it's got to be cheaper than the cost of all of the node 10 boards that they're having to replace

reading the data sheet for TMC5041-LA-T
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/256/TMC5041_datasheet-1879285.pdf

it states "In order to keep supply ripple away from the analog voltage reference, 5VOUT should have an own filtering capacity and the 5VOUT pin does not become bridged to the 5V supply."

I'm no engineer but I wonder if a shortcut was taken in either regard and the board is either lacking filtering and/or that 5VOUT line is being somehow bridged with the 5v supply.

also from the datasheet, the section that I've bolded seems relative to what we've been experiencing:

9.2 Short to GND Protection
The TMC5041 power stages are protected against a short circuit condition by an additional measurement of the current flowing through the high-side MOSFETs. This is important, as most short circuit conditions result from a motor cable insulation defect, e.g. when touching the conducting parts connected to the system ground. The short detection is protected against spurious triggering, e.g. by ESD discharges, by retrying three times before switching off the motor.
Once a short condition is safely detected, the corresponding driver bridge becomes switched off, and the s2ga or s2gb flag becomes set. In order to restart the motor, the user must intervene by disabling and re-enabling the driver.
It should be noted, that the short to GND protection cannot protect the system and the power stages for all possible short events, as a short event is rather undefined and a complex network of external components may be involved. Therefore, short circuits should basically be avoided.

#11521 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

If anyone has a blown node 10 board that they didn’t have to send back to stern can you PM me? I’d like to try replacing the blown chip to see if that’s all it takes to fix the board.

I was gonna try to see if I could get away with not returning mine for the same reason - that chip is less than $10 on Mouser if you buy only one, I'd really like to have a spare N10 around. Looks like an easy job if that's truly the only thing that breaks when this happens.

#11522 1 year ago
Quoted from Ten31:

Stern has dropped the ball and is just making it worse by hiding whatever information they have.

Most definitely. I'm sure with the sheer number of node 10 boards they've replaced, there has to be some sort of alarm going off at Stern. Honestly, they should at least publish a technical bulletin with something in it so people know what they should be looking for and how to rectify it. It almost seems like Stern is just hoping, in time, it just goes away on its own.

#11523 1 year ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

I was gonna try to see if I could get away with not returning mine for the same reason - that chip is less than $10 on Mouser if you buy only one, I'd really like to have a spare N10 around. Looks like an easy job if that's truly the only thing that breaks when this happens.

Aren't you going to need to load some firmware on that chip? Can it be copied out of a good chip?

#11524 1 year ago

I don't think it has a firmware, just registers that can be read/written to

1.3 Software
From a software point of view the TMC5041 is a peripheral with a number of control and status registers. Most of them can either be written only or read only. Some of the registers allow both read and write access. In case read-modify-write access is desired for a write only register, a shadow register can be realized in master software.

#11525 1 year ago

So, my node 10 board went on me on Christmas day. Been in touch with c/s and Im getting it replaced. In the interim, I guess the game plays the same without the ramp moving, is that right? As well, I guess, the up position would work as this is the Pro position, but, would the game play the same with the ramp down always?

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#11526 1 year ago

Has anyone gotten a replacement node 10 board that has been installed and then needed to be replaced?

#11527 1 year ago
Quoted from Animal:

Has anyone gotten a replacement node 10 board that has been installed and then needed to be replaced?

Standby...

#11528 1 year ago
Quoted from Animal:

So, my node 10 board went on me on Christmas day. Been in touch with c/s and Im getting it replaced. In the interim, I guess the game plays the same without the ramp moving, is that right? As well, I guess, the up position would work as this is the Pro position, but, would the game play the same with the ramp down always?

Ya, the shots up and through the ramp register the same with the ramp down and the ball bouncing back.... really messes up the flow, but to answer your question, the game does play... just not as envisioned. I will go on the record and say that the LE and Premiums are lemons. The Pro is the more valuable version of this pin.

#11529 1 year ago

So speaking of flow being ruined by the ramp being dead - with my N10 being dead, I disabled the ramp in software, disconnected the stepper motor, and put a shim under it to hold it up in place to replicate the flow of a pro and............. I gotta say it plays pretty nice like this. The only Pro I have access to is a launch-day pro in a barcade nearby, but it's already been beaten to death and plays poorly, so this is a bit different!

Masking tape is to stop balls from getting stuck on the gap, since they won't clear with ramp movement...

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#11530 1 year ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

So speaking of flow being ruined by the ramp being dead - with my N10 being dead, I disabled the ramp in software, disconnected the stepper motor, and put a shim under it to hold it up in place to replicate the flow of a pro and............. I gotta say it plays pretty nice like this. The only Pro I have access to is a launch-day pro in a barcade nearby, but it's already been beaten to death and plays poorly, so this is a bit different!
Masking tape is to stop balls from getting stuck on the gap, since they won't clear with ramp movement...
[quoted image]

Great idea! What did you disconnect for the stepper motor?

#11531 1 year ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

Glass issue: pull glass out, each side rail has two outside screws in the middle, and one bolt at either end. Loosen each just a touch, and see if the fixes your tightness issue. Note, the bolt closest to backbox, you’ll need to lower the backbox down to get access to them.
If not that, does your glass have anti-rattle tape on the edges? That also causes severe tightness.
Diverter: you won’t see movement hitting the action button, it just tells the machine which outlane you want the ball dropping into, when you hit the right ramp. Action button also engages the weapon, when you’ve collected it.

Thanks. no rattle tape. Would be nice if I can loosen the tension with the glass on. Sounds like the outside may be able to do that. I'll look into this.

I did collect a weapon last night and saw it tell me to use action to use it. I didn't know when or what I was waiting for in usage, so my first time strategy was to wait until just before a drain, and maybe collect points using the weapon... but I don't think it did anything. You used the phrase "engage the weapon" which is interesting verb and maybe a clue for me, but Maybe that's on a timer too. #Noob

#11532 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Thanks. no rattle tape. Would be nice if I can loosen the tension with the glass on. Sounds like the outside may be able to do that. I'll look into this.
I did collect a weapon last night and saw it tell me to use action to use it. I didn't know when or what I was waiting for in usage, so my first time strategy was to wait until just before a drain, and maybe collect points using the weapon... but I don't think it did anything. You used the phrase "engage the weapon" which is interesting verb and maybe a clue for me, but Maybe that's on a timer too. #Noob

http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-rush-rulesheet/7409

This should help you.

#11533 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

I did collect a weapon last night and saw it tell me to use action to use it. I didn't know when or what I was waiting for in usage, so my first time strategy was to wait until just before a drain, and maybe collect points using the weapon... but I don't think it did anything. You used the phrase "engage the weapon" which is interesting verb and maybe a clue for me, but Maybe that's on a timer too. #Noob

Quick pushes of the action button will switch which return ramp will be used by the diverter. Whichever flasher on the left or right side is active will show the currently selected return ramp.

To use The Weapon you have to HOLD the action button down for about a second or so. Generally seems to be best used right after your multiball returns to single-ball play - mash it and it'll either complete the rest of your mode shots or add a ball back in to restart multiball. Might do other things, depending on the situation - but that's what generally happens.

#11534 1 year ago

Thank you!!

Quoted from mjannusch:

Quick pushes of the action button will switch which return ramp will be used by the diverter. Whichever flasher on the left or right side is active will show the currently selected return ramp.
To use The Weapon you have to HOLD the action button down for about a second or so. Generally seems to be best used right after your multiball returns to single-ball play - mash it and it'll either complete the rest of your mode shots or add a ball back in to restart multiball. Might do other things, depending on the situation - but that's what generally happens.

Got it! That was so well said Even I can understand it.

Quoted from flynnibus:

Bastille day is hit rush standup targets for the value counting down on screen. hit all to reset and get more points.

perfect

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Jukebox, power on game, hold both flip buttons, then cycle thru options

Nice! Ty

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Diverter is only active if the flasher on left or right is on. Let's you have option to which flipper you want ball to come to. I pretty much don't use it

Helpful as always

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

I made a shooter , drawer knob off ebay
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks nice. I'll book mark this for a possible project. I also feel like the stock spring doesn't have a lot of range It's either full plunge or not enough that middle range seems to be missing.

#11535 1 year ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

disabled the ramp in software, disconnected the stepper motor, and put a shim under it to hold it up in place to replicate the flow of a pro and............. I gotta say it plays pretty nice like this

I admire your Macgyverism. I wish we would not have to resort to converting our Prems/LEs to Pros by stuffing debris into the ramp in order to keep it up. Anyhow.... anybody out there want to trade their pro for a prem?

#11536 1 year ago
Quoted from Animal:

Great idea! What did you disconnect for the stepper motor?

The position switch (two-wire connector closer to my palm) probably doesn't need to be disconnected with the ramp disabled, but figured it couldn't hurt. The 4 wire plug on the right closer to my finger tips is where the magic happens.

Also note my shim shifted when lifting the playfield - gotta tighten that zip tie a bit.

I'm also anticipating this will be the end of the black nubs on either side of the ramp entrance as - with the shim - there's no "give" when a ball smacks one of those nubs. I bet one shears before I get my replacement node.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#11537 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Thank you!!

Got it! That was so well said Even I can understand it.

perfect

Nice! Ty

Helpful as always

Looks nice. I'll book mark this for a possible project. I also feel like the stock spring doesn't have a lot of range It's either full plunge or not enough that middle range seems to be missing.

Pinball life has an assortment of shooter springs, im sure other vendors do as well

#11538 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

also from the datasheet, the section that I've bolded seems relative to what we've been experiencing:

Therefore, short circuits should basically be avoided.

Maybe Stern took the term "basically" as a suggestion. I would assume avoiding short circuits is always a good idea.

#11539 1 year ago

Hey everybody, my main scoop on my Rush Premium seems to be firing balls at the very tip of the right flipper, sometimes missing and going straight down the middle. From what I understand, one of two things need to be adjusted, either the scoop itself needs to be re-angled, or the plunger that kicks the back back up to the scoop isn't hitting the ball squarely. In either case, can somebody give me instructions how how to made the necessary adjustments to resolve this?

Loving the game. About 600 games in. Luckily haven't had any of the Node 10 board troubles that others describe.

#11540 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

I also feel like the stock spring doesn't have a lot of range It's either full plunge or not enough that middle range seems to be missing.

I went with the orange spring from Pinball Life(or other sources), made a huge difference. PBL has a chart on their spring page, to let you know what color springs are harder/softer.

#11541 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

Hey everybody, my main scoop on my Rush Premium seems to be firing balls at the very tip of the right flipper, sometimes missing and going straight down the middle. From what I understand, one of two things need to be adjusted, either the scoop itself needs to be re-angled, or the plunger that kicks the back back up to the scoop isn't hitting the ball squarely. In either case, can somebody give me instructions how how to made the necessary adjustments to resolve this?
Loving the game. About 600 games in. Luckily haven't had any of the Node 10 board troubles that others describe.

Loosen the screws under the scoop , twist the scoop counter clockwise from the top as tight as you can and re tighten. If that doesn't fix, you can put a small washer under the screws on the left side

20221229_161320 (resized).jpg20221229_161320 (resized).jpg20221229_161328 (resized).jpg20221229_161328 (resized).jpg
#11542 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

Hey everybody, my main scoop on my Rush Premium seems to be firing balls at the very tip of the right flipper, sometimes missing and going straight down the middle. From what I understand, one of two things need to be adjusted, either the scoop itself needs to be re-angled, or the plunger that kicks the back back up to the scoop isn't hitting the ball squarely. In either case, can somebody give me instructions how how to made the necessary adjustments to resolve this?
Loving the game. About 600 games in. Luckily haven't had any of the Node 10 board troubles that others describe.

The other aspect that made the biggest difference in my Rush game was the top of the scoop angle. Simply bend up slightly or directional angle to the direction you want the ball to travel. Many times this is enough just give it some adjustment and boom.... done. Also, if you have a ninja camp scoop protector installed if it is not absolutely tight to the side of the wood it will catch the ball and give inconsistent scoop kickouts.

#11543 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

Hey everybody, my main scoop on my Rush Premium seems to be firing balls at the very tip of the right flipper, sometimes missing and going straight down the middle. From what I understand, one of two things need to be adjusted, either the scoop itself needs to be re-angled, or the plunger that kicks the back back up to the scoop isn't hitting the ball squarely. In either case, can somebody give me instructions how how to made the necessary adjustments to resolve this?
Loving the game. About 600 games in. Luckily haven't had any of the Node 10 board troubles that others describe.

I increased the coil power a bit. Loosening the screws and moving the scoop didn't always give consistent results. Upping the coil power moved it away from SDTM much more effectively.

#11544 1 year ago

Last of my Rush brew goodness in the fridge for New Year’s Eve!
Need more Canadian hoser love ASAP!

3164E85E-1AC4-49DB-A391-04092CD4C6A4 (resized).jpeg3164E85E-1AC4-49DB-A391-04092CD4C6A4 (resized).jpeg

#11545 1 year ago
Quoted from Ten31:

I increased the coil power a bit. Loosening the screws and moving the scoop didn't always give consistent results. Upping the coil power moved it away from SDTM much more effectively.

I think people called it the GNR fix. But adding the washers to one side of the scoop was the key to solving this issue permanently for me.

#11546 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Loosen the screws under the scoop , twist the scoop counter clockwise from the top as tight as you can and re tighten. If that doesn't fix, you can put a small washer under the screws on the left side
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from aaron6920:

The other aspect that made the biggest difference in my Rush game was the top of the scoop angle. Simply bend up slightly or directional angle to the direction you want the ball to travel. Many times this is enough just give it some adjustment and boom.... done. Also, if you have a ninja camp scoop protector installed if it is not absolutely tight to the side of the wood it will catch the ball and give inconsistent scoop kickouts.

Quoted from Ten31:

I increased the coil power a bit. Loosening the screws and moving the scoop didn't always give consistent results. Upping the coil power moved it away from SDTM much more effectively.

Quoted from lospugs:

I think people called it the GNR fix. But adding the washers to one side of the scoop was the key to solving this issue permanently for me.

Appreciate the suggestions everybody. Definitely gives me some ideas to try. For now I've simply raised up the power of the 'Main Scoop' up to 215 .. (185 was default) .. seems to fire the ball out super hard now, and hits the flipper a little bit higher than the tip now. High enough to play the ball at least. Is there a danger to raising the strength? Could this prematurely blow a transistor or a coil or possibly damage something else on the PF?

I can certainly relate to the "GNR Fix" I have a GNR LE and had to raise up the left side of the scoop with a washer. With GNR it seemed to be a little more intuitive how to remove the scoop hood as it was just a simple piece. On Rush, it appears that the scoop is part of a much bigger part under the playfield.

Anyway appreciate all of the replies. I'll try my best to improve things how I can.

#11547 1 year ago
Quoted from Vino:

Last of my Rush brew goodness in the fridge for New Year’s Eve!
Need more Canadian hoser love ASAP!
[quoted image]

I have yet to crack open my case of signals beer or the holiday 4-packs that I ordered from henderson brewery.

#11548 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

.... On Rush, it appears that the scoop is part of a much bigger part under the playfield.
Anyway appreciate all of the replies. I'll try my best to improve things how I can.

You don't have to fully remove the scoop, it's really as simple as removing the two screws and inserting the washers. The scoop under the playfield is quite large, but the fix is much simpler.

#11549 1 year ago

Just got my RMA # for my dead node board - distro said to expect 4 to 5 weeks for the replacement, at the moment.

Quoted from Schwaggs:

If anyone has a blown node 10 board that they didn’t have to send back to stern can you PM me? I’d like to try replacing the blown chip to see if that’s all it takes to fix the board.

They specifically asked me to send back the blown board, unfortunately...

#11550 1 year ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

The position switch (two-wire connector closer to my palm) probably doesn't need to be disconnected with the ramp disabled, but figured it couldn't hurt. The 4 wire plug on the right closer to my finger tips is where the magic happens.
Also note my shim shifted when lifting the playfield - gotta tighten that zip tie a bit.
I'm also anticipating this will be the end of the black nubs on either side of the ramp entrance as - with the shim - there's no "give" when a ball smacks one of those nubs. I bet one shears before I get my replacement node.
[quoted image]

What did you attach the cable tie to to keep up the ramp?

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
From: $ 15.00
Electronics
Space Coast Pinball
 
8,400 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Indian Land, SC
From: $ 15.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Space Coast Pinball
 
$ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Fuzz
 
From: $ 8.99
Cabinet - Other
Inscribed Solutions
 
$ 40.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Rocket City Pinball
 
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 17.50
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 18.00
Lighting - Other
Pin Monk
 
8,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Florissant, MO
$ 16.99
Playfield - Plastics
Lermods
 
$ 30.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Drumstarr mods
 
$ 159.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
 
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
 
10,250 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Roswell, GA
6,250
Machine - For Sale
San Diego, CA
$ 40.00
Playfield - Protection
NinjaCamp Mods
 
From: $ 140.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
From: $ 140.00
Lighting - Interactive
NinjaCamp Mods
 
$ 140.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Drumstarr mods
 
$ 50.00
Playfield - Protection
NinjaCamp Mods
 
From: $ 16.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
BomberMods
 
$ 45.00
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
 
$ 18.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
$ 15.00
Rubber/Silicone
NinjaCamp Mods
 
$ 29.99
Playfield - Decals
Cento Creations
 
There are 18,138 posts in this topic. You are on page 231 of 363.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.