LOL. I remember not even knowing they were Canadian for a year or two when I first started getting into their music.

If my game has been on for a while, it will make a random, very loud screech. Happens also on GZ. Anyone else had this and is it just a code bug?

Easy fix.
That’s the knocker in modern Stern games. It can be disabled in the settings menu.

Imagine if there were a Toronto Maple Leafs pinball… people would pay more and more to watch it suck and nobody would complain about the price increases!

(Supposed to be funny… one of my best friends is a Leaf’s fan. But I was an easy target living in AZ for a while).

Thank you! Continuing…. (<—— rush reference)

The sound is not the Stern “knocker” sound. And the sound is going off when the game is not being played.

Best move the game on it sounds defective. I know someone who could help

Yeh, I think it’s f*d Audioenslaved - I’ll leave it out on the nature strip and you can swing by and pick it up.

Hi All - I am fairly novice pinball repair type, and purchased the full set of Cliffy's for my Rush LE. Is anyone aware of a video or set of videos that can walk me through the installation? A document or manual would suffice as well.

I have searched high and low, and I am sorry if it should have been more obvious to me - thanks for any help!

Having an issue with scoop/eject on my pro
I recently installed Ninja Camp protector and have noticed this since and may or may not be related
Occasionally a shot into side/upper scoop will make noise and register if it's a lock or extra ball. The ball will roll down to lower scoop but will not eject, until ball search and sometimes it takes 2 cycles of ball search to eject.
I have glass off and cycled ball through both scoops easily 50 times each with zero issues.

Any ideas?
Update

Just had a ball stuck went 3 cycles. I found it hung up at end of upper scoop subway where it feeds into lower scoop trough. A bit of shimming and it's 100% again.

Lol I wa at least going to give you a G banger for it. But if it’s that stuffed I better get it off the nature strip then!

Just watched these 2 tutorials- fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to make them Theguyoverthere .

Learnt a lot just from those two tutorials. Had no idea bout the divertor switch, and also the “easy” way to hit the middle scoop by holding up the upper flipper. Using both those things in combo - genius.

NIB rush pro just opened (made June 23) and in the middle of a game the right half of the inserts went dim (not out, just dim).

I used the search function and saw this happened to another about 8 months prior, multiple node board failures.

What luck.

Testing the node boards in service results in zero errors. Individual LEDs tested are dim right half along with a couple in the center, mystery.

No cables/molex appear toasty. Reseated all connectors, no change.

Anyone else experience Node-10 not found at start up!! After 35 plays my Rush Premium can’t find Node -10. Yes I checked everything plug/cable. Stern is reluctant to send a replacement board. They are afraid it will blow again. Time Machine Ramp and Clock haven’t worked for over a month. Sucks!!

Been having some intermittent issues with L&R ramps registering shots. Did some switch tests, and turns out the middle opto - the one to the left of the Time Machine where the ramps meet - is not active at all in switch test mode.

I’m assuming this opto should be active in switch test? All other optos are.

Edit: and on further investigation:
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So the active opto side’s cable was wedged in between the Time Machine and the metal plate at the end of the middle plastic ramp intersection. Of course it cut the casing and it the wire was making contact with the metal causing a short in the opto. Completely removed both optos, Re-shrink wrapped the wire and re- routed the cables so it doesn’t happen again. Perfect now. Realise now I was not getting recognition for most right and left ramp shots.

Also installed the magnetic Reed switch on the inner loop. Made a big difference but it’s still missing some fast shots. I’ve sent pete_d ’s 3D print files off to get printed and should have them back this week. Then we should be fully dialed in.

I realize shimming it fixed it for you, but did this have the Stern service kit for the scoops already installed? If it was an early run, you needed to get a free kit from Stern through your distributor to fix this issue permanently.

I don't know if Stern switched suppliers for their wiring, but it seems like there's been a whole lot of issues on RUSH with the insulation being stripped creating shorts.

It's a later production game, scoop blinders from factory.

Two things, double check your work installing the NC protector, as if not properly placed, can cause some issues. 2nd thing being, make sure nothing fell down into your scoops(washer, spacer, screw, ect...).

Glad it’s working, but you shouldn’t have to shim it.

SterlingRush , could you please elaborate on improper placement of the NC protector? Can it somehow block the sensor? I’m trying to decide between installing a NC or Cliffy for the scoops and want to get it right.

NC protector, would be more of ball insertion/ejection, usually caused by the flaps protecting the sides of holes, not sitting properly. Example, upper scoop(right side as looking at it), has a piece that tucks in between the wood of the hole, and the metal of that scoop. If that is not seated properly, it will cause issues.

If you’re believing it’s more of a switch/sensor issue, clean them with alcohol and a qtip, then check for blockage within the subway, check wiring and connectors(if you undid any). Yours being a later run machine, I wouldn’t think Stern still placed the faulty switch for the subway, but never know.

Haven’t turned my LE on in about two months…. A couple of shit games on IMDN, decided to boot her up and then this happens. I’ve only gotten to Cygnus Book 1, one time…. Then I just went both flipper buttons like a 4 year old on Adderal and managed to get thru book 2

They call me Tim…. Wizard!

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I am curious to hear how that works. All of the people so far who have told me they installed my fix, have seen the loop work 100%, no misses. But I believe they all also still have the mechanical switch.

I don't know that much about the magnetic switch, and so I am interested in finding out if it can register balls which are simply fast, even when they are down on the playfield where they belong. The mechanical switch has some inherent lag in it with respect to its return to its open state after the ball goes by, and so allows for more detection time even if the ball is really fast. But the magnetic switch (presumably) is closed for a shorter period of time when the ball passes. It's still mechanical inside -- the reed has to move -- but there's so much less mass involved, it probably responds more precisely to the ball, and so could reopen sooner on faster balls.

Anyway, that's a long way of saying that with my fix installed correctly, you can be sure the ball is down on the playfield, so that's an interesting experiment to see if the speed of the ball also plays a part in detection, when it comes to the magnetic switch.

I'm hoping it doesn't, because I think from a long-term reliability point of view, as well as eliminating those rare moments when a slow, back-rolling ball gets hung up on the mechanical switch, are reasons to also prefer the magnetic switch. I look forward to hearing how it goes!

MRS work perfectly - in fact, a couple of pins I replaced all switches with MRS.

MM creations (I think that's the name of the company on here) are great.

I'm talking about the service kit for under the scoop that moves the switch that detects the ball. I don't remember if that was being installed before or after they came out with the idiot sandwich for the topside.

Same time - sent together for early games. Not sure if any shipped with the scoop switch w/o the blinders but I don’t think so

Having played Godzilla a couple times over the last week, it feels like Rush is easier to "get things going". Every game of Godzilla I felt like I floundered around for a while before I finally got "things" to start happening. Whereas on Rush, you can basically hit any two shots and you're already ready to start a song mode.

This has happened to me during code updates, it lets out a loud & scary screech right as it reboots. Scared the hell out of my kids one day.

Just had my best game by a long shot fumbled through book 1and 2. Was at 2108 and couldn't get get the years for 2112. 3 ball factory settings. I had to turn down the heat in the house mid game. Absolutely pumped.

I told myself to focus on recovery and ignore combos and album/mode boost.

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Both games are top notch and will be staying for a while.

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MRS switches are fantastic in general, but still missing the odd inner loop shot for me. Still more reliable than a regular switch though.

I think I was in the minority, fought the display images on Godzilla too repetitive. For the average player, it is hard to advance in the game so you see the same footage over and over again. Probably a lot more fun for those that can constantly put up big scores. Rush I get caught up in the music so less concerned about the footage and having a fixed display image makes it less annoying.

It's not bad, a lot of people complain Rush isn't obvious what to do also. I think you have to spend some time learning every game to some extent, minimum 10-15 games. I have played GZ several times, several games each time. It's good.

The dream team!

I was supposed to get a GZ this summer and then I found a GB so I killed my order.

I installed an MRS switch in my inner loop, but I am now encountering a new issue. If the ball is going slow enough over the MRS, the switch will 'capture' the ball, requiring mechanical agitation (and an ensuing warning/tilt) to release the ball. I'm going to try installing a shim to increase the clearance between the switch and ball, but I'm worried that it will affect the switch sensitivity.

Yes there is ...

https://lermods.com/shop-by-game/ols/products/abe-flips-rush-pinball-shooter-lane-fix

Interesting. I'd just assumed that without the mechanical interference, the magnetic switch would eliminate the type of issue. But now that you mention it, I can see how, since the magnetic switch involves a high-strength magnet right at the playfield to create the magnetic field that the reed switch responds to, that magnet could also interfere with the ball's movement.

What's crazy is that I actually gravitate to Mandalorian the most. It's on the other wall.

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Mando is great! Underated game. I think these are the 3 best, modern Sterns.
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Easy fix with a real knocker kit.

You'll be fine....we built them with a workable level of sensitivity....so, just remember - it's a game of mm - so start by shimming only 1 mm - don't go crazy...1mm should be enough....sometimes even as little as half a mm....

Matt

That’s a great trio and they all play very different.

Those 3 make for an awesome lineup!

I had that issue on mine but I noticed the playfield was resting a little too low when in place. So what I did was put some felt under the two brackets that touch the cabinet when the playfield is lowered into place, effectively raising it just a little. That solved my shooter rattles and now it plunges smoothly.

That is a nice looking room you got there! Sweet lineup.

Figured someone would want to see the SOF.

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Hey, didn't you take me to a Leafs game?

This is the only drawback on the MRS ... it's super rare, but if circumstance results in a verrrry slow ball trickle across the switch, it can get grabbed and held there. Then I gotta fish it out with the magnet-on-a-stick and drop it back into the shooter lane. It's happened less than 10 times, but it can and does happen.

SoF in a Jokerz cabinet?! Blasphemy! Well, better than no SoF at all, that's for sure. LIONMAAAAN

Someone posted a Jokerz in a Big Guns cabinet in the market a couple weeks ago - we need to get the missing links together and get everyone back in their own bodies!!

Make sure your playfield, shooter rod, and shooter rod housing, are all secure and set right. If problem still exists, then look into the shooter lane assist.

I'm guessing it happens less with the magnetic switch than with the mechanical one. On the factory switch, I'd guess I see that happen every 40 or so plays? Haven't really been keeping count, doesn't really happen that often, but it does happen. I've seen it probably 3 or 4 times so far.

I just grab the ball with my hand and drop it in the dead-end VUK. It won't fire until I close the coin door and I'm ready to get the ball back, and it's right there next to where I got the ball from.

Do you have to use the magnetic retriever because you have the clear plastic over the lane? I guess that's another reason to go with one of the solutions that doesn't cover the lane, makes getting the ball back easier if it gets stuck there.