yes

Seems like you would want to know what you're talking about before you post.

I have zero skin in the plastic protectors game. Just trying to be helpful. And I have no problem with DIY. In fact, I made a thread about how to DIY the quiet fan in Spike power supplies, complete with instructions and part numbers (here: https://beta.pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stern-spike-noisy-ps-fans). I supply the plug and play kit for those that don't want to mess with it, which seems to be most people. It's not the only DIY thread I've made to help people out.

So, no, I don't create "false narratives" to put people off DIY that are into it. The ONLY thing that pisses me off is when people copy a design I've done down to each part number and SELL it, pretending they didn't just rip it off. THAT makes me mad. But everything else in your assertion - is a failure to research before you post.

I've made my own in the past with a Dremmel and diamond blade. Just trace, cut, then grind and buff the edges.

Yep, done that, too. But it's more work than a Cricut. It really depends on how committed you are to DIYing it. But in some cases where you need something that it unobtanium, it's DIY or nothing. That's when the rubber meets the road.

The cricket can cut .024 with the knife blade. so I think I’m going to try that in a cut of acrylic. Thicker cuts can be finished with exacto blade I suspect. I don’t think the protectors really get hit with the ball all that often. But I appreciate the extra info. I’m also going to look into the PETG

Report back what you find out!

Now who's posting without a clue?

Whether you care about the threat to your business model is immaterial. I never said you cared, but the fact that DIY could be a threat is indisputable. Likewise, I never said you "have skin in the plastic protectors game". In fact, if you'd bothered to read my post, you'd see I specifically noted that I wasn't aware of any specific product you sold along those lines.

First you wrote that someone would need to buy a Glowforge or similar to make laser-cut pieces, and then when I disputed that, you moved the goalposts and decided you instead wanted to argue about whether it was worthwhile to use a third-party service to do it. All of these statements seem aimed at discouraging people from DIY approaches, and they all make the false judgment that DIY is pointless. That certainly seems like a false narrative to me.

And yes, I'm well aware of your contributions to other DIY efforts. Which makes your negativism and hostility to the idea in this particular scenario all the more bewildering. Why so strident about discouraging other people from cutting their own protectors?

Guys, please take it somewhere else. This is the Rush owner’s thread.

I don't think you know what strident means, or you're exaggerating on purpose.

I'm not stridently discouraging anyone from DIYing. Not even regular discouraging. Just real talk saying I don't think you'll get a good protector with what Cricut can cut. The person that talked about tracing, dremeling and finishing as a way to to it, I agreed with. My perspective is that in this case, it's a cheap thing to buy at like $25/set, so I don't see the point in DIYing it unless you're really into the process itself. That's it.

The reason I was looking into doing it is that I really like the look on my guardians of the galaxy. However I would like to see what it looks like on rush if all the plastics that have G.I. under them had a plastic protector highlighting the edges. But plastic protectors for the whole machine don’t exist

Agreed: I've made a couple of clear protective plastics for my A13 and really enjoyed the DIY aspect. While I've also purchased some clear plastics for RUSH to contain a ball to register on the tight turnback, I had the time to fabricate the A13 protectors since a '95 game already has brittle OEM plastics and sometimes questionable reproductions. Ironically, I've used oscillating tools to cut 1/8" acrylic and haven't had one chip yet (I'm probably doomed to chipping one tonight!).

I picked up a Rush Pro yesterday and I've got a question for folks in this group that I sincerely hope doesn't cause any hard feelings. I was super excited to snag this machine based on the reviews I'd seen. I like Rush, I like the art package, I like the code, and I love the callouts and the clear passion that went into this game. What's hanging me up, unfortunately, is the gameplay. I've got my machine at a dead-on 6.5 degree pitch and perfectly level, but it feels like every shot in the game is just too tight. I'm bricking balls all over creation to the point that I'm one day in and already thinking about a trade or sale, and I've never had that experience before (I've owned 22 machines, currently own 12). In particular, the right ramp and the shot through the pop garden feel like they're at least an eighth of inch too tight. I like both flow games and stop-and-go games, and I also like difficult games, but I'm having more difficulty getting dialed into this one than any game I've ever owned, and that includes a Flash Gordon. I'm not trying to rag on Rush -- I desperately want to love it -- but I'm walking away in frustration every game. Did anyone else have this experience and then come around? If so, what was your strategy (beyond "git gud")? I'm a firm believer that it takes at least a hundred games to render a verdict, but I'm closing in on 40 or 50 and I'm just struggling.

I think 7 degrees shoots better personally. Also make sure your pops lane is clear, some have seen the pop by the scoop with interference below the pf cause the pop metal ring to block shots there. Was yours NIB or used?

I got it used in a trade, but it's in excellent condition -- it came with the NinjaCamp scoop mod and has pretty low plays. When I first got it, the pitch was about 7.5 degrees; I dropped it to 7 and then finally 6.5, and while 6.5 is a vast improvement for me personally, I'm still having issues. This might end up just coming down to a matter of personal preference. For what it's worth, I got a NIB Godzilla Pro a couple of weeks ago and I absolutely love it, even when it's frequently cruel. I feel like when I brick a shot on Godzilla (or any of my other games), it's because I'm playing poorly. I feel like when I brick a shot on Rush, it's because of the design, and the penalty for every bricked shot is either an SDTM or a straight shot to the left outlane. I plan to tighten up that outlane, but even so, I've never played a game that felt like it was beating me up this bad. Maybe it's just my style of play. It's really got me baffled.

6.8 feels right to me, I was bricking when I first got ours, but once you figure the shots, it's amazing. And with the rayday tutorials of late, much easier to understand. And yes, tighten up that left outlane, it's your game, make it enjoyable to play. Pinwoofer takes it to the next level of enjoyment too, highly recommended.

I'll add to the chorus of people suggesting a bit more pitch. I think I have mine at 6.9 recently, up from 6.6 or 6.7. I get a lot less side to side movement now, which helps with the pesky Borg drains.

I run mine at about 7.2 and do agree it is not the easiest shooter especially compared to Godzilla. But once you get flowing on it after dialing it is really fun. I think this one is just going to take time to get the shots found. I still find the right ramp tough I am a few hundred plays in. I think the code is so good that it will be worth the time to get is dialed in. But I totally understand it is tough when you have a big collection and this one kicks your butt! On the plus side probably the most forgiving Borg layout in terms of out of control balls not draining as high of % as Walking dead or MET. My biggest complaint is when the ball comes around from the auto-launch and through the pops right down the middle during multiball. But I really love the game.

Thanks guys, I'll try adjusting the pitch a bit!

Give it time, it’s supposed to be challenging, would be boring otherwise. Wouldn’t you be disappointed if you spent $7K on a machine that was extremely easy? I would, I expect a big challenge if I’m spending that kind of money.

Much like being a musician and playing Rush tunes, it’s challenging and rewarding for those that seek it.

Keep your head up, when you start getting the feel dialed in, the game opens up a lot more.

For record, have my pitch at 6.5, out lanes set from factory.

I feel you on the tight shots. I had the hardest time dialing in the left orbit. I nail it now. I still suck at hitting the hidden 1,2,3 orbit behind the center ramp, but then again, I am one of those players that brick shots when I overthink them. lol

What do you guys use to measure the pitch of the game? Somekind of digital level?

Oh and I watched some of Ray-Day's latest tutorial and found out one of my settings for the rainbow records was not factory default.
When he started a game, he got two records then the arrows started flashing multicolor to light a rainbow record. That only happened to me when I completed a mode.
I needed to change a Rush Feature Adjustment (Wildcard Record Behavior #46) to "Mode Light Or Complete", mine was changed to "Complete Mode + Hold".
Somehow that setting was changed on my machine so it's a bit easier now. I'm pretty sure I never changed it myself being that I didn't get what a wildcard record meant. Makes me wonder if there are other important settings that were changed on my machine without me realizing it...

Put on a set of precision flips. Then micro adjust angles to your preference. Totally changed my Rush from a brickfest to a flow monster. Amazing difference.

I was bricking a lot of shots my first few days, but after more play time I'm making some crazy combos. It just takes some time to get used to the shots and the timing. Stick with it! The rewards are worth it.

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/level-measuring-tools/digital-angle-gauge-and-level
I use this Klein tool at work for alignments and for pins. Can be had for about $30.

Same here. Just be sure to take measurements across several locations, upper/mid/lower, as I've found readings vary (especially if you can't avoid pf inserts).

I use soapy water and adjust the bubbles to level. kidding lol. I use a digital scale. Make sure you sit it on the play field. Not just for measuring pitch but put it in diffent locations to check for bowing. just fyi. Every now and then, bad playfields do get out.

PREXISO Digital Level, 11.5'', Angle Slope with LCD Display, 360° Electronic Bubble Inclinometer, Vertical & Horizontal Spirit Bubble for Construction Carpenter Craftsman Renovation Home Professional https://a.co/d/9G1YLbd
Used to be much cheaper of course, but works great

I use PinGuy app on my Iphone 8, it works just fine once properly calibrated. Have had to re-calibrate after a couple updates but rock solid generally speaking.

I echo the sentiment of "don't give up on this one easily"..........it's a really fun game once you get the flow and feel of it and have a couple big games / multiballs.

Pin-guy is by far the best. Just having the call outs while you’re under the game makes it indispensable. Only problem is the new phones all have protruding cameras so they don’t sit flat. I’ve kept an old iphone that has a flat camera just for measuring playfield levels.

Interesting. Would the app work with the phone face-down?

Alternatively, a lot of people use a case for their phone, and most cases surround the camera protrusions, so that'd probably keep the phone flat to the playfield.

And of course, barring all that, it would be easy to print a sheet on a 3D printer (preferably TPU for the grippy texture) that served the same purpose a case would. Just a flat rectangle with a cutout where the camera stuff sticks out.

Just joined the club with a premium. Rush. My favorite band. So a no brainer here! Can't wait to put pinwoofers in.
So. When I hit the right Rush ramp. It's going so fast that when it comes around the middle ramp. It just flies off onto the pf. Anyone else experience this?

I had that issue on mine, big-time. I loosened up the nut, holding the wire-form ramp, gently twisted the ramp and re tightened the nut. hasn't happened since.

I've done it a few times but it seems to work best with a slowly returning ball... maybe even one that bounced around a bit

Ya, once you get the shots it's fun. Took me a while because I suck but it's my favorite pin now.

Thanks RayDay... Great tutorials! These have been super helpful.

I had a difficult time reading the rules and applying them. Your videos made it so much easier. Now I understand what the rulesheets were trying to say.

After watching raydays tutorials, especially the 5 minute quickie, I finally broke the billion barrier last night. Thx for doing these

They do exist. Mezel Mods (@tmezel) has them, I think they're the manufacturer. https://mezelmods.com/products/clip-protector-set-rush-pinball (In EU pick up through Pinball Universe, pu-parts.com) Only available in florescent yellow though and at the moment out of stock for prem/LE. I think I would have preferred clear but I'll admit I haven't gotten them installed yet. Like so many of these small vendors Mezel does have great customer service, if they've got anything you're interested in I'd highly recommend buying from them!

Oh cool I didn't know they did that for the whole playfield. I wonder if they do it for other games too?

Yep, I bought it from PU part and here is the result…..I really love it
DDF0E3AA-7E45-49E8-B4D7-54C0B191E4B5 (resized).jpeg

…..

Resolved,

Very underrated game. Agree, if game was too easy I would have sold it by now. For me, it blows Godzilla out of the water. Not really sure why… but it really really fun to play

Same issue as the Node 10 boards?

https://www.ign.com/articles/nvidia-16-pin-connector-cable-melting-lawsuit

"The cause of the melting appears to be a design flaw, relating to the high wattage flowing through each of the 16 pins," the legal complaint notes. "If there is even a temporary break in the electrical connection for any of the pins, too high a current will flow through the remaining pins, causing a meltdown."

So thankful for Raymonds 5 min tutorial. Cant tell you how many times I mindlessly just spammed the shots because I saw lights, haha.

To be honest, I love just having a beer and shooting combos. I havent a clue how to play but its so fun to shoot.

I was just saying that to my wife this morning. I traded my JJP Pirates for Godzilla Premium and Rush Premium, so both games were delivered together. I love Godzilla, but..damn…there’s just something so addictive about Rush. It’s SO MUCH FUN!

I doubt it. Though, since I'm not 100% clear on the failure mode for the Node 10 boards, I can't say for sure.

In the case of the new nVidia card, there are multiple power lines; ideally, there's just be two large gauge wires rated for the total current that the card needs. But because of how PC power supplies are designed, nVidia's card (and video cards generally, when they need a separate power connector, which is pretty much any decent 3D card these days) uses multiple connections to the power supply. The video card doesn't care which wires the power's coming from; on the card, they are all connected anyway. So if one disconnects, the card continues to draw the same amps, which overloads the remaining connected wires still providing current.

I don't have the impression that with the case of the Node 10 boards, there are multiple power wires going to the board. The overload on the chip seems to be caused by the momentary loss of connection, which seems to divert current either the wrong direction or to the wrong place (this is where I'm unclear on the specifics), which immediately fries the chip. Completely disconnecting the power for the board all at once seems to be sufficient to break the board, while the nVidia thing requires at least a little bit of time for the wires to get hot and overheat.

(In the nVidia situation, why the PC power supply is willing to pump more current out the rail that remains connected than the wires are rated to handle, I don't know...seems like a design flaw there to me; should be a circuit breaker or some other kind of auto-shut-off or current-limiting device in the circuit. Sure, nVidia might have provided faulty connectors, but the wires are of a known gauge and power capacity, so for the power supply to not be designed to not start a fire when the capacity is exceeded, that seems pretty lame too.)

For me when I first started I focused on the shots that I felt were safer. The right ramp is not one of those and after about 800 games I still avoid it some times, although I don’t brick it nearly as much now when I do shoot it. My favorite shots (when trying to just light records) is from the left flipper I shoot the spinner (in the beginning I shot the spinner more than any other shot by far) and then center loop a few times and then left ramp (timing is easier on loop for me than the ramp or scoop from upper flipper). From the right flipper it’s the dead end shot when lit (I have a Pro) or left orbit through the pops, hold the right flipper to get the ball in the upper scoop and then from the scoop let it dead flip on the right over to left and then hit the spinner again.

My outlines were set to the most friendly setting from the factory and I’ve kept them there.

Hopefully you find the angles soon and enjoy the machine. I love mine, but it’s all a matter of personal taste.

I have a GZ on order but playing the 2 back to back I prefer Rush, just feels faster.

I suck at pinball anyway but both are definitely amazing.

As a Canadian pinball enthusiast isn't it some sort of requirement that you need to have a Rush pin anyway?

I had a Godzilla LE right next to my Rush Pro at home for a while. Godzilla is great but 9 out of 10 times I'd play Rush over Godzilla, hence I sold my Godzilla. I just love Stern Pro's, they always seem to play fast and furious.