Hi folks, just a little post to say hello to all happy Rush Owners.
I have a NIB Rush LE for about 1 week. Fantastic game. 2.2 billions personal record.
I m waiting for a number of mods to protect more the playfield.
I have put a PP since first ball. Still need to install the scoop/vuk protectors from Ninjacamp.
But I missed the shooter lane damages... after one houndred games, the wood (varnish?) is a little used
I was looking for the PINDEFENDER (Pinhead Mods) but there is no delivery to France. So I put two layers of tape...

One question: do you have sometime, the ball release by the time machine in the front side instead of the back side?
It appears some times for me.
Thks

I’ve been following these posts with the plungers having a “less-than-full” full shot.
Are all of you getting a clean shot with the plunger (in other words, is the ball rattling off the side or the rails at all?)

That being said, my LE has the same green spring. But I found that the rubber tip wasn’t t fully seated on end of the plunger rod. It needed to be “screwed on” a little more and a little straighter. Not much, but enough to where it seemed to absorb some of the force of the plunge.
Probably the bigger issue was that the entire plunger assembly was installed off center:
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There are 3 silver screw/lock washers and 2 red wood screws used to mount the assembly to the cabinet. I removed the two red ones completely, loosened the threw silver ones and then shifted the entire plunger assembly toward the center of the machine. It was about a the thickness of a screw out of alignment. That meant the holes in the plate for the red wood screws would now line up too close to the original holes:
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So, as an experiment, I left them out red ones and cranked down the silver screws as tight as could to hold it in position. Top down view:
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After about a hundred games or so, it’s remained in place and I haven’t had ball wobble or weak full-plunge shots. Here’s how things line up now:
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My LE plunger is off-center also. I assumed that is causing my weak plunge I just haven’t tried adjusting it yet.

Mine is 195 with the Ninjacamp protector.

Have you cleaned, waxed and polished the balls lately? Mine changes drastically after a cleaning versus not clean.

(Late answer due to my not being verified )

Anybody know of a vendor selling BLACK scoop bumpers? (#626-5057-01)
Several places have the part in blue, but I’ve had no luck finding black.
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Yeah I clean everything once every couple weeks or so. I re-set everything underneath the playfield and got it working pretty well.

Pretty sure titan and pinball life have them. they won't be exact fit but can be trimmed and drilled for your application.

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=159&search=nub&description=true

Do your game a favorite and install the NC scoop protector.

That was the first thing I did before running one ball through.

Well worth it.

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Thoughts on shaker motor in Rush... Worth it? or not really?

All I can say is this: be careful what you wish for. While I love Aerosmith and Munsters, these games are pretty basic. I don’t think we want to go back to Lonnie-level rulesets (and for Lonnie: I loved Iron Man and The Rolling Stones and a lot of the stuff you’ve done, but I’m also glad there are new ideas making their way into pinball code).

I think it’s worth it. Well coded into the gameplay IMO.

I want to upgrade the speakers in Rush. What brand do you guys recommend?

For appearances sake, I always liked these speakers (same ones used at the factory for Stern LE games):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079SFC3P9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

However this game is one that greatly benefits from the full Pinwoofer package, which comes with blue Pyle speakers. If you can handle the cost of this kit, this may well be the best possible upgrade for ANY music pin.

I had the same issue for the longest time, SDTM or weak ejects or both. Tried everything, and turning the scoop or using washers just seemed to make it worse. Finally realized that the solenoid was misaligned (likely loose from the factory) and hitting the side of the ball, making ejects inconsistent. I loosened the solenoid bracket, lined up the solenoid so it hit the ball in the centreline, tightened it up and haven’t had an issue since, solid ejects to the right flipper every time.

It's implemented well in Rush but for me, it's a must no matter what Stern game.

I found the stock speaker lacking in the midrange which is critical for Rush. I really like the Alpine S-S50 and an external sub. That combo sounds great! It needed absolutely no EQ changes.

Alpine S-S50 S-Series 5.25-inch Coaxial 2-Way Speakers (pair) https://a.co/d/7oDkftC

If you have a Premium or Pro you will need new 5.25” speaker plates to mount the larger speakers.

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-spike-2-speaker-plate-for-525-drivers.html

PinWoofer now has a complete line of upgraded pinball speakers. But changing the speakers alone is a bit of a disappointment so we offer a total, powered solution that sounds stellar in Rush. Our amplified super kit unlocks the potential of the track and adds a huge amount of presence to your pin - it really jams!

https://pinwoofer.com/pinwoofer-spike-super-kit/

The kit comes with everything you will need and takes most guys less than an hour to install.

Thanks,

Dan
https://PinWoofer.com
[email protected]
+1 208-855-0346, 9am - 5pm MT, Mon - Fri

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Just to chime in here, I also have issues with inconsistent plunger. Sometimes it is completely fine, sometimes it is clearly not. At least for me, I know that when it is messed up, it is because the plunger is hitting the auto-plunger assembly somewhere. That is, when I plunge, I see the auto-plunger move. It isn't obvious to me where it is touching the auto-plunger, even in slow motion.

I've tried adjusting the screws to make the plunger more centered, and that didn't really help. However, I haven't tried what Bill2112Rush suggested regarding not putting the red screws back, and to me that seems a lot more promising to get it properly centered. (The idea I saw earlier to shim the plunger slightly downwards is interesting too, I might also try that, in case the touch point is at the top of the plunger)

Interesting observation. I noticed my auto plunge hitting also when I was testing but ignored it. Perhaps the auto plunge is actually launching the ball before the plunger tip hits it. That would perhaps explain things.

I have been wanting to buy these but I am wondering what do I need if I have the speaker light kit installed? I would like to have the 5.25 inch speaker but do I need to buy anything so that I can have both a light kit and the Pinwoofer?

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Agree Schwaggs - you're on the right track with that model. That's a good sounding speaker owing to its construction. In particular, the 0.75in silk dome tweeter.

Silk (textile) produces a smooth, pleasing response compared to rigid mylar or PEI tweeter materials which tend to be harsh. These latter materials are designed to be highly efficient and are what you will typically find in automotive or marine grade speakers; but efficiency generally comes at the expense of quality.

For the game room environment quality is paramount, so we went beyond with a larger 1in silk dome tweeter which we think gives us a bit of an edge.

Appreciate your post.

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I have the latest speakers and pinwoofer amp in rush, along wirh Doug's speaker lights and the fit is perfect. But the sound is unreal, the best sounding gane I've ever owned and I've had pinwoofers in at least 8 games now. Money well spent!

This Monet

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Wow dang - you do like your light kits hiker2099 ! Great looking line up too.

We supply only 5.25in speakers for Spike-2 titles (all five of the titles in your photo are Spike-2).

Please refer to the images below where you can see one of the two (left/right) removed speaker plates for i) Pro/Premium or ii) Limited Edition / LE. (Refer to the stud pattern shown in each of the images labeled "1".) Once you identify what you have (4in 2-stud = Pro/Premium or 5.25in 4-stud = LE) make your selection as shown before adding to your cart. If you want a follow-up from us to confirm, we can do that after you order if you select "Unsure...".

We'll supply the correct backbox speaker mounts for the supplied 5.25in speakers, and our mounts are compatible with the light kits you have. Our speakers and electronics are very easy to install requiring only a few common hand tools.

Thanks for asking!

Dan
https://PinWoofer.com
[email protected]
+1 208-855-0346, 9am - 5pm MT, Mon - Fri

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Dang you, caught my typo

Got my nib rush premium. It doesn't have a goodie bag like my other machines.

Does yours have a goodie bag? Does stern pick and choose which games have them?

26 balls played and the scoop protectors needed to be changed. I got both the Ninja Camp and the Stern factory fix. I think I’m going to start with the Ninja Camp first.

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Smart move. After having both versions in my game, I like the ninja scoop way better as it keeps the playfield more open - Just installed mine this past weekend. The Stern fix SUCKS, looks ugly, and reduces ball paths.

I do like the shaker, HOWEVER, if it's shaking during an auto-plunge or when you're actually using the shooter rod to shoot the ball, you'll have an even more erratic launch than what has already been discussed.

My LE didn’t come with a goodie bag. General consensus is that they didn’t do them for any of the Rush games.

Awesome. Thanks for the compliment. Ill get on there today and order. Always wanted a set of pinwoofers.

Might as well buy for em all, after you hear it, you'll wish you did!

I upgraded my LE with the pinwoofer kit then took the stock speakers and used them to upgrade my STH pro (using the 5” adapter kit from speaker light kits).

The MB mode is indicated on the playfield, albeit not obviously. The light pattern on the ramp indicates which mode is qualified. It is probably in the rulebook, the only one I remember offhand is that Red Barchetta is shown with all red lights.

On the Prem/LE I know I have seen the ball released down the front ramp instead of being ejected out behind the time machine. I believe this is by design but I can't say exactly when it will happen. On the Pro front releases are much more common as generally they will indicate a "time machine not ready" shot equivalent to when the ramp is down on the Prem/LE.

Wish I could, but I will have to test them out first. lol. Plus I wish I could afford to do it to them all.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/144#post-6982603

Those are very cool...I wish somebody made that for sale. I'd be all in.

thought i read where those speakers wouldn't fit in the pro version, had to buy some sort of speaker adaptor????

Somebody does. Us folks in and around Toronto, Canada know where they come from. I have a set but haven't installed them yet. It's a friend of mine that makes them. I'll ask him if he's interested in offering them up.

Update: Sent you a PM with some info...

Yes that is correct I was remiss in not including that in my original post. You would need the 5.25" adapter plates that Doug sells at speakerlightkits.com

https://speakerlightkits.com/5.25-SPIKE-2-Speaker-Plates.html

He has lots of other goodies there, too... I highly recommend his speaker light kits if you aren't going the Expression Light route, in which case you need NinjaCamp's Expressive Lighting speaker lights.

To clear things up a bit:

There are people that have speaker ADAPTERS that allow a person to mount 5.25" speakers on SPIKE 2 4" speaker plates.

What I sell are 5.25" speaker PLATES to mount 5.25" speakers in SPIKE 2 games. They are not adapting anything. They are a replacement speaker plate. You take out the old ones and you put in the new ones. No adapting.

The rest of what I have to say is based solely on the LOOK of the speaker mountings.

If you are using the 4" speaker plates, either with 4" speakers or with 5.25" speakers with the help of an adapter....you are best keeping those 4" speaker plates covered up. The speaker holes are off center in the rectangle grill area and they have those craptastic looking bars running through the 4" speaker holes. So, leave the speaker foam in there to keep them covered or have a design mounted on the grill to cover them or something.

If you want to show off your speakers, make sure they are 5.25" and you have them mounted using the 5.25" speaker plates. Otherwise...it's going to look crap.

Doug (SpeakerLightkits.com)

Here’s something I spotted today that you might wanna check out…
Take a look at the wire that runs from the red flasher down and under the right ramp. Mine is pretty tight and has been rubbing on the edge of the ramp. It’s to the point that it’s starting to cut into the wire insulation:

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That’s a short waiting to happen!

Ernest knows about those...

I hear ya - I think some one will. Just a matter of time.

Guy just has no time, too many other things on the go.

For those doing the 5.25” speaker adapters: I used the Thingiverse STL and 3D printed 4” to 5.25” adapters for my Rush (and GZ) pro. Used the Kicker CS speakers and Dug’s light kit on GZ. I had to slightly modify one size of the adapter to fit dug’s light kit and it came out great! If you are a DIY type, worth the time and energy. Which wasn’t a ton of either. Speaker install was cake with the adapters. And the lights look great. I’m trying to decide which ones to order for my Rush as I type this!

I think I mistakenly called it an adapter kit in an earlier post but I used your light kit with your replacement 5.25” speaker plates on my spike 2 pro, worked great! Also on Rush LE I used your light kit with your gold mirror surrounds which was a perfect replacement for Rush’s gold metal surrounds.

Plunger solution... Somebody pointed out the plunger making the auto launch move when plunging a ball. (Sorry, looked back and couldn't find who said it). Mine was doing that also. A closer inspection revealed it was hitting the top metal piece, so r auto launch was actually hitting the ball before the plunger. The shim I added to the back of the plunger housing was enough to give it clearance where the ball launches perfect. Hope this helps others that run into it.

The little pieces of rubber in the bottom of the cabinet are actually shavings from the rubber to hitting the auto launch.

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