My 20 year old daughter wears all my old Rush tour shirts now. Makes me proud

I'm starting to notice a lot of my Stern factory LED bulbs are beginning to fail already, or are literally falling apart.

Others having this issue? What brand do they use? I doubt its Comet. I use them for all my other games and never have issues.

Also...... Has anyone replaced the Red and Blue LEDs in the GI with White? I have considered it. The red and blue just doesn't make sense to me, plus the effect is not that impressive.

Funny you should mention that... I just had the dome pop off a blue bulb under the left sling the other day... and that little sucker got stuck right behind the kicker for the slingshot, which caused it to abruptly stop working. Never had a dome pop off a bulb before, even in a Stern game. I just left it uncovered for now and will replace with a Comet next time I have the glass off (didn't have any spare blue bulbs when it happened).

I have had 2 blues go bad. 2 whites are starting to flicker. 1 Red out. And when I installed my Dice mods for the scoops... one of the green LEDs had the dome pull off right in my hand.

Stern LEDs are about as useful as their rubber rings. Which for the record.... I have my right sling rubber about to break after 500 plays.

The right slingshot on Rush is particularly bad for some reason. I'm already on my 4th... while the left slingshot is still the original I believe. It's been a weird pattern on Rush.

That's awesome. I was about to pull my cracked one out and put in the Stern fix...........awesome that you are standing by your product! Will be in touch soon-

PM sent.

I'd ask Distributor for the Stern model. I'd keep playing. A few hundred plays shouldn't be a problem.

I've replaced my right one twice even after switching over to Titan clear. One thing that I have started doing now is that every time the glass is up, I rotate that right sling rubber just a little bit to get that problematic lower corner wear spot moved around the triangle just a little bit more. That seems to have helped a bit because it would have already failed again had I not started doing this... I'm also still on the original (Titan) rubber on the left side, with no visible wear.

Looking for a rush premium in Maryland/DC/Va area. Anyone?

Stern sent me the kit for mine but I ordered the ninjacamp ones instead. Started playing while I was waiting a few days for it to arrive and the original one was already bending up and balls were getting stuck in the scoop in that short time. Either is probably fine but that original one will bend up fast so just stop playing when it does until your replacement comes

A blue gi bulb died on me too! Are these bulbs the 44/47 style base?

Change the straight clear post nearest to the flipper to a clear star post and use a 2 1/4" Titan ring.

The radius on the straight post is too small and nips at the rubber ring.

I did order the 2 1/4" Titans but didn't think about changing the post... sounds like a good idea!

It was the first picture I found.

I thought about changing to all white also. I changed all the clear domes to frosted in my LZ. The clear are too blinding.

Play taps for me. Finally had my Node 10 blow, and pretty spectacularly too.

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I thought I was in the clear, since my game had over 1600 plays, and hasn't had any issues since I unboxed it in early July.

Guess, it was just a matter of time afterall.

Could a Premium/LE owners do me a favor and take a picture of their working Node 10 board?

I'd like the photo for comparison purposes. It would also be nice if the picture showed connectors going into the board. I'm curious how mine compares.

Thanks in advance.

jesus.. at what point is Stern going address this for real? It's absurd there is no SB about things that can contribute to it and what to avoid.. unless it truly is a board defect.

I think I am going to diasble the clock and the ramp on my premium...I have a feeling we are all playing ticking time bombs.

Someone needs to come up with some kind of fuse mod to save these boards or something.

There's a ton of adjustments for both the ramp and clock in the settings. I lowered the power for both by about 25%. No impact on play. No idea if this helps, but thought it might be cheap insurance for Node 10 failures. Until Stern comes up with the definitive cause.

Probably not a bad idea. Just wish there was an easy way to lock the ramp in the upright position without the motor. I bet there's got to be a way to rig it.

Real inline fuses would be ideal. I also think it's interesting that the chip that’s blowing on Node 10 isn't always blowing the same way. I've seen some blowout vertically like mine, and some blow out horizontally.

Least I could do is shoot a quick photo of the node 10 board after you helped me just last week. Hope it covers your need ok.

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Run it in test to the up position and unplug it.

Thanks. Was also hoping to get a view from slightly farther away, if you or anyone could get one. Was hoping to see a bit more of the cabling going into the board.

One thing I noticed is that my CN5 connector, has an extra connector board attached to it. Does anyone else's CN5 Node 10 have this special adapter? The few pictures I've seen of other Node 10 boards don't seem to have this one. I'm wondering if it was a mid-run change?

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It seems like it has a bunch of baby capacitors on it? Maybe to help with power spiking? If that's what those "c" labeled rectangles on the connector board are.

Mine got fried when the chip on Node 10 blew. Looking closer at the burn damage, it looks like it burned up through the traces going into CN5. I wonder if that's what caused the connector to fry as well?

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Yeah, that might be a good solution if your Node 10 board is functional.

Here's what my board looks like, hope it helps.

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Here's a picture of mine, hope it helps.

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CN5 carries just 2 switches. I'd think it was the stepper motors on pins CN1 or CN3 that is the likely issue.

Agreed. Seems like my CN5 connector got taken out by the burned up chip.

But I do think it is interesting that my CN5 connector has a little adapter board, and also the wiring going into it does not have the ferrite cores attached like I've seen on many games. I wonder if the adapter board is an alternate fix from Stern for noise interference on those lines?

Is the general consensus the Node 10 board will eventually fail and not if, but when?

Thanks much.

Prior to today, I was of the opinion that if you made it past a few hundred plays without it failing, that you would be alright. Obviously, that notion was incorrect.

It does indeed seem like any of the Premiums and LEs could have a blown Node 10 board at any time. Doesn't seem to really matter how many plays it has, or how long you have it on. Doesn't seem to be any correlation to anything.

Wish we knew the cause, or better yet the prevention.

Guys,
Just to be clear, do not do anything as far as connectors with node board 10 with the game on. If you disconnect anything from the board with power on, you will blow the board up. there is a sticker that says this, but its kind of hid behind the wiring.

The main thing that i have seen is that a wire in the molex plug for the ramp was not "clicked" all the way in, so it would cause a quick interruption in power, and take out the node 10 board. Sadly, it took a couple node 10 boards to find this problem. But luckily, i have a few connections to get a replacement, lol. We actually used my game to come up with some solutions. 9 out 10 times, the issue will be a power interruption.

also, I had quite a few rush premiums have this same problem, and the games have been running great after this wire was fixed. and I have not had a single customer in the past 2 months have a problem with any from the last build. Hope this helps you guys out

Can you post, or repost, pictures of which connector you've been finding the problem?

As I was troubleshooting a Node 9 failure in my LE I found 3 separate instances of improperly inserted leads in Molex connector bodies in various places. One was in the wires from one of the lower scoop optos, another nearby (can't remember which circuit) and the 3rd was what was causing the green LED on the top of my Time Machine to be intermittent. Since then I have spot-checked dozens of connectors without finding any more instances but since this problem has been reported before by others I think it is likely wider spread than we may know. I suspect sometimes improperly inserted pins make connection long enough for the machine to pass QC but then over time through vibtation and thermal cycling they work their way loose. Shame on me for not doing it myself already but I intend to take the time needed to inspect EVERY connector in my machine - starting with those associated with Node 10 - to ensure I don't have any further "time bombs" that could cost me a board down the road. (Incidentally, there is no evidence that my Node 9 board was damaged by an intermittent connection; it has no 6-volt supply so something in that on-board circuit is defective without providing visual evidence other than the fact that the 6-volt supply LED does not light. The 48-volt LED is the only one that lights on that board.) These improperly-inserted pins are clearly a workmanship issue, whether they are manually- or auto-inserted. IMHO, Stern should be looking into this and issuing a Service Bulletin if they haven't already. I found my loose connectors by chance. How are others faring...?

Hey guys,
I hate to say it, but Rush is not better than Godzilla. I was wrong.

They're both great games, and Rush is still Borg's best work which I'm happy to own, but Godzilla is the winner on a couple different aspects and for the number of shots and ball paths.

I still love Rush, but Godzilla eeks out a win here. For those Die Hard Rush fans, including myself as a loyal fan of Rush, the theme is timeless and the game is furiously satisfying, but Godzilla takes it.

for those having problems with usb updates, you have to use the left usb port, not the right one. you will need to remove the wireless adapter from the lefft port and insert your usb drive to being the update. strange that theyre not ambidextrous. but it works only on the left side port.

There's something wrong with your machine, or possibly your USB drive. USB update works fine on my machine on the right port.

It's a great game, to be sure. The main problem is that it's Godzilla...and the callouts make me want to commit hari kiri. So I'll take Geddy calling me a hoser any day.

I don't know what coin-door ball save is, but we've had a couple of balls on the upper loop have so much speed they wedge and get stuck under the plastic but never on the wire form and the glass.

That's crazy.

It's what this game is all about

"So the maples formed a Union"

I'm quite happy to be not supporting a sweatshop where people get paid for producing products I buy when I put my cash down !!

I don't know that they have one in stock, but I bought my NIB Pro from Arcade Game Sales of Maryland on Kent Island. Working with them has been great. Maybe they can help you out.

I played Godzilla for the first time yesterday, it is by far the best one I tried at the shop.

I'm a Rush fan, so completely biased here, but I think the Rush experience is a much more enjoyable one. I think they both play great, and I'm comparing my Rush Pro to the GZ Premium, but I think the games are equally fun in terms of the shots. Though, if you give GZ the nod on more fun shots if that's your thing, I think it's undeniable (in my obviously biased opinion) that the rest of the experience of call outs, lights, music, sounds, etc is far superior on Rush.

I don't think you'd really feel like you went wrong either way....but I'm a near life-long Rush fan so all other things being equal I think that Rush is more enjoyable.

The coin-door ball save is a setting in the menu.

When it is turned on....it makes it so you can open the coin door, remove the glass to retrieve a stuck ball, let the ball drain and when you put the glass back in and close the coin door.......it will relaunch the ball that you lost and let you continue playing that ball.

It can be thought of as opening the coin door as a pause button basically, and as mentioned, it's good to have on for when balls get stuck.

I get those too!

See if you can find a good deal on a used LE. Rush is one of those games where it's easily worth the current difference w/ expression lighting, mirrored backglass, shaker motor, armor, invisiglass.

You da Man Troy!

I want to check the wires and connectors on my Node board...... but honestly....with all the others failing, im afraid to even look at it LOL.

Meh. I got bored of GZ LE after a couple of months and was at the point where I didn't want to play it anymore. Very, very, cool mechanically, interesting shots and a cool theme, but just didn't connect with me otherwise. (I guess I did find the right saucer shot frustrating at times which didn't help given it's so key to the game?)

I wasn't the worlds biggest Rush (the band) fan (only really knew Tom Sawyer before I got the game), but the game immediately hooked me and still gets the most play of my games ~half a year later. (It probably doesn't hurt that I now find myself really liking Rush [the band] and it's become one of my sons' favorite bands [he requests Subdivisions literally every time we're in the car] -- so that may be part of the reason I got hooked so much?)

uh

no?
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