(Topic ID: 308430)

RUSH Pinball Official Owners Club-“Straining the Limits of Machine and Man”

By mrossman5

2 years ago


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14
#9601 1 year ago

Completed all the songs, played all multiballs, finished book 1, then finished book 2…. I’m on year 2110, ball 3……… I go to shoot the time machine and it rattles the entrance comes back sling sling outlane……………. I just stand there with my head in shame

CA14E3EA-14AE-41C4-9959-4E4CD389B2A9 (resized).jpegCA14E3EA-14AE-41C4-9959-4E4CD389B2A9 (resized).jpeg
#9602 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

Completed all the songs, played all multiballs, finished book 1, then finished book 2…. I’m on year 2110, ball 3……… I go to shoot the time machine and it rattles the entrance comes back sling sling outlane……………. I just stand there with my head in shame
[quoted image]

How long did that game take??

#9603 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

Cool. 2112 mode is finally here! Not that I'm going to be seeing that any time soon. But still, it's something to look forward to.
As far as the other changes go...

Scoring changes: looks like they've adjusted things to make it a little easier to reach certain modes, as well as to get slightly higher scores. I wonder if this will help less-skilled players like me get to 2112? Maybe that's even the intent.
The one thing that does bug me is "Changed the blue planet rules so the side loop and side ramp are their own
separate shots" for the Cygnus X-1: The Voyage mode. Most owners have not installed any of the work-arounds for the faulty design of the inner loop. Personally, I've only tried the felt option so far, and I've been underwhelmed by its effect. Yeah, it slows the ball a little sometimes. But I still get lots of misses on the switch, and now a slow ball sometimes gets stuck up there. Making the side (inner) loop its own shot is making that mode significantly harder, because it could take many many successful attempts at the shot before the machine actually registers it.
It's my opinion Stern should not be making this change, until they have come up with and delivered an official fix for their defect.

So, who's going to install the new code first? Me, I'm going to wait and see whether anyone finds any new bugs that got introduced this time around.

If my 8-12K machine didn't work properly, I'd tune it. I get that it's probably related to the design, though.
Imo, install the magnetic reed switch MRS-RUSH from Sonic and never look back!

I've installed 1.0. Seems great so far.

#9604 1 year ago

Hi folks - getting a bit off recent topics here. How long have you waited for a warranty replacement Node 8 (or 9) board from Stern? They told me "e-mail back if you haven't received it in 3 weeks"; I've heard it can take months! I did an end-around and bought a replacement board from Nitro Pinball, had it in 48-hours! I paid twice the Stern list price ($99) but for me it was worth it to get back in business that fast. Most online retailers are simply out of stock for this item, typically at ~$130. Given that these node boards are a known weak link, I believe having a spare is essential to "operations" so I would probably have bought one at some point. And of course there's always that Murphy's Law corollary to help guide us: "If you have a spare on the shelf you'll never need it...!"

BTW - Stern's support thus far has been prompt, detailed, and valuable. The tech. support rep. worked me through a couple of issues successfully. There might be a comment to be made about the reliability of that node board, QC, etc. Underdesigned, perhaps? Or cheap components used? But the supply chain issue I might be experiencing is probably completlely out of their hands. I realize they can't stop production to send me a board.

#9605 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

Completed all the songs, played all multiballs, finished book 1, then finished book 2…. I’m on year 2110, ball 3……… I go to shoot the time machine and it rattles the entrance comes back sling sling outlane……………. I just stand there with my head in shame
[quoted image]

OMG, so close. Crazy good score.

#9606 1 year ago
Quoted from bhelms:

Hi folks - getting a bit off recent topics here. How long have you waited for a warranty replacement Node 8 (or 9) board from Stern? They told me "e-mail back if you haven't received it in 3 weeks"; I've heard it can take months! I did an end-around and bought a replacement board from Nitro Pinball, had it in 48-hours! I paid twice the Stern list price ($99) but for me it was worth it to get back in business that fast. Most online retailers are simply out of stock for this item, typically at ~$130. Given that these node boards are a known weak link, I believe having a spare is essential to "operations" so I would probably have bought one at some point. And of course there's always that Murphy's Law corollary to help guide us: "If you have a spare on the shelf you'll never need it...!"
BTW - Stern's support thus far has been prompt, detailed, and valuable. The tech. support rep. worked me through a couple of issues successfully. There might be a comment to be made about the reliability of that node board, QC, etc. Underdesigned, perhaps? Or cheap components used? But the supply chain issue I might be experiencing is probably completlely out of their hands. I realize they can't stop production to send me a board.

Haven’t seen much mentioned other than Node 10 boards, seems to be 1-3 month turnaround. I was just shy 2 months, for the spinner target and decals replacement I received.

#9607 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

Completed all the songs, played all multiballs, finished book 1, then finished book 2…. I’m on year 2110, ball 3……… I go to shoot the time machine and it rattles the entrance comes back sling sling outlane……………. I just stand there with my head in shame
[quoted image]

No shame in that, hold your head high, you know it’s achievable now

#9608 1 year ago
Quoted from bhelms:

Hi folks - getting a bit off recent topics here. How long have you waited for a warranty replacement Node 8 (or 9) board from Stern? They told me "e-mail back if you haven't received it in 3 weeks"; I've heard it can take months! I did an end-around and bought a replacement board from Nitro Pinball, had it in 48-hours! I paid twice the Stern list price ($99) but for me it was worth it to get back in business that fast. Most online retailers are simply out of stock for this item, typically at ~$130. Given that these node boards are a known weak link, I believe having a spare is essential to "operations" so I would probably have bought one at some point. And of course there's always that Murphy's Law corollary to help guide us: "If you have a spare on the shelf you'll never need it...!"
BTW - Stern's support thus far has been prompt, detailed, and valuable. The tech. support rep. worked me through a couple of issues successfully. There might be a comment to be made about the reliability of that node board, QC, etc. Underdesigned, perhaps? Or cheap components used? But the supply chain issue I might be experiencing is probably completlely out of their hands. I realize they can't stop production to send me a board.

I've been waiting on replacement boards (Lower Center LED and 3-bank LED boards) since 5/31/22 on my RUSH Premium, a 4/15/22 build. Have followed up 5 times since a flurry of activity/correspondence in early June. The two Stern contacts that I've corresponded with have been responsive but its been radio silence since mid-August. Love the game but really wish I could enjoy the game fully, working.

#9609 1 year ago

Updated to the code 1.0 last night. Played one game this AM before leaving the house. Seemed to work OK.

#9610 1 year ago

Feel like I can finally enjoy my Rush Pro Thanks to Gameroom Mods’ retention plastic for the inner orbit. I can just Play now and trust that the shot will register. Has been 100% since install. Also have Ninja scoop protector. 1.00 code Rocks btw

#9611 1 year ago

Took so long to update last night that I was ready for bed by the time it got done. Will try my first 1.0 game later tonight.

#9612 1 year ago

Anyone else notice it’s now much easier to get to Headlong flight MB? Not sure if it’s 100% true but wow is it a great MB, especially when you stack it with another MB and mode. Great work Ray-Day and team.

#9613 1 year ago

SPOILERS FOR 2112

I got to 2112 the real way last night. Super awesome mode. As if there wasn't more to enjoy about this game.

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1596851255

#9614 1 year ago

Anyone having this problem with the 1.0 update?

943FB405-3BE4-4F6D-8CA7-14FDED64D0A3 (resized).jpeg943FB405-3BE4-4F6D-8CA7-14FDED64D0A3 (resized).jpeg

Our good friend Dalton did the upgrade and reflashed on a new SD card and can’t use insider… just wondering if this is unique?

Neil

#9615 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Anyone having this problem with the 1.0 update?
[quoted image]
Our good friend Dalton did the upgrade and reflashed on a new SD card and can’t use insider… just wondering if this is unique?
Neil

Full explanation:
Last night I updated to Rush Pro V.1.00 code via USB and immediately noticed that whenever I tried to use my Insider QR, it would say the "Game validation error, update SD" message. I then proceeded to follow the Stern site's instructions on how to flash an SD, and used the SD card in the back of the machine to reflash the image to the Rush Pro v.1.00 image. I put it back in the game and it went through the Insider setup (successfully connected to the internet) but still had the same message when I tried to scan my Insider.

I reflashed the SD card three times last night and still did not work. Today I bought a new SD card, same Class 10, but 32GB so it had enough space. Flashed the card, and STILL gives me the game validation error. I'm just about all out of ideas.

#9616 1 year ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

Anyone else notice it’s now much easier to get to Headlong flight MB? Not sure if it’s 100% true but wow is it a great MB, especially when you stack it with another MB and mode. Great work Ray-Day and team.

Yep, the drum clock starts at 5:00 now, making Headlong Flight easier to get to.

#9617 1 year ago
Quoted from Dalton71611:

when I tried to scan my Insider.

Maybe attempt to perform the update via wifi instead of the card? Also, maybe go into the settings...net..... and select the function where you do not need to scan the insider code every play. Personally, I have not selected that option but it may be worth a try.

#9618 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Maybe attempt to perform the update via wifi instead of the card? Also, maybe go into the settings...net..... and select the function where you do not need to scan the insider code every play. Personally, I have not selected that option but it may be worth a try.

After some emails with Stern support, I got this message:

"So, it looks like because the game recognized the corrupted sectors on the old card, the game will need some time to be able to recognize that the new card is not corrupted.
Per the software engineering team, the game should be able to clear the errors in a few hours, but it needs time be able to communicate to tell the board that the SD card is no longer corrupted.

On a game like Rush that holds so much data and video information, it will take a while and it needs to ensure that the SD card has the proper date and is operating properly. "

Sounds like I just keep the card in there for a while and see what happens.

UPDATE: After a few hours, Insider is working again! Just a case of an impatient person had to be patient, lol

#9619 1 year ago
Quoted from bhelms:

Hi folks - getting a bit off recent topics here. How long have you waited for a warranty replacement Node 8 (or 9) board from Stern? They told me "e-mail back if you haven't received it in 3 weeks"; I've heard it can take months! I did an end-around and bought a replacement board from Nitro Pinball, had it in 48-hours! I paid twice the Stern list price ($99) but for me it was worth it to get back in business that fast. Most online retailers are simply out of stock for this item, typically at ~$130. Given that these node boards are a known weak link, I believe having a spare is essential to "operations" so I would probably have bought one at some point. And of course there's always that Murphy's Law corollary to help guide us: "If you have a spare on the shelf you'll never need it...!"
BTW - Stern's support thus far has been prompt, detailed, and valuable. The tech. support rep. worked me through a couple of issues successfully. There might be a comment to be made about the reliability of that node board, QC, etc. Underdesigned, perhaps? Or cheap components used? But the supply chain issue I might be experiencing is probably completlely out of their hands. I realize they can't stop production to send me a board.

Hi Bruce, just came across your post. This item should have been listed at $129.99. Suzanne will be refunding you $70.00

Thanks again for your support!

Tommy

#9620 1 year ago
Quoted from FlipperFreak:

Hi Bruce, just came across your post. This item should have been listed at $129.99. Suzanne will be refunding you $70.00
Thanks again for your support!
Tommy

That’s pretty dang awesome right there, Nitro for the win

#9621 1 year ago

Got my adapter plates in today, and got the speaker expression lights kit installed, yay!

Install Tip: If you have a Pinwoofer setup, and you’ve upgraded your back box speakers to PW’s latest version(has PW on back of speaker instead of Pyle), you will need #8 1/2” screws to mount the speakers to the light rings. The supplied 3/8” will not reach the mounting holes.

I mounted my light rings, with the wires mounted closest to the LCD monitor, so my effect would look(L to R) like the letter C and a reverse C. I left on my WizardMod speaker panel cover, to see how it would look behind the Starman graphics, not too shabby. I didn’t install the speaker surrounds, figured I’d save that for another time, if I decide to install them.

If you decide to mount similar to what I shared above, use extreme caution with the wires for each light ring. There’s not a lot of room between ring and LCD monitor. Go easy, and do it at your own risk.

68116A5C-9A12-423C-AF5C-5EBE7F194796 (resized).jpeg68116A5C-9A12-423C-AF5C-5EBE7F194796 (resized).jpeg9BB6BF63-CC10-46EC-BAA0-6E63CA06FBB9 (resized).jpeg9BB6BF63-CC10-46EC-BAA0-6E63CA06FBB9 (resized).jpegEC891F31-F605-455E-98A0-D3B8313754DD (resized).jpegEC891F31-F605-455E-98A0-D3B8313754DD (resized).jpeg
#9622 1 year ago

.

#9623 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

I looked everywhere visible and didn't see anything on the boards. I wrote Stern to see if they know, but right before I sent it, I ran through all the LED tests. The RGB LED pointing into the upper scoop is dark on all 3 colors. I'm guessing that's an RGB LED from that board? Asked Stern to confirm. Thanks all. Will let you know what I hear.

Since you've already looped Stern in, maybe you've got this all figured out, but your plea piqued my curiosity so I took a look, and yes...the RGB modules look like the thing you took a picture of. I admit it does have a similar shape to the SMD inductor components (suggested by someone else), but those are much larger, with part #'s printed on them.

You mention the upper scoop arrow insert lamp being out. Here's a photo of what that component (LED12 on board 9A, framed in red in the photo) looks like on my machine:

LED12 on board 9A, framed in redLED12 on board 9A, framed in red

On my board, the LED package has a white base, but otherwise it (and all the other RGB lamps) looks pretty much the same as the component you asked about. Minor differences in packaging like that wouldn't be unusual, especially these days with manufacturers getting electronic components from wherever they can at any given time.

I'll bet if you unfastened your own 9A board and (carefully, so as to not scrape any other components off the board by accidentally hitting something hard on the playfield underside) turned the board over so you can see where LED12 is, you'll find it missing.

I'm sure you can easily figure out where the board is, given you already know which lamp is not working, but just to be complete here's the board layout drawing from the machine manual showing where board 9A is on the underside of the playfield. The board itself is labeled "6", but that's just the ID on the table on the page. The board's actual name is "9A":

playfield bottom, board 9A framed in redplayfield bottom, board 9A framed in red

If/when you confirm that's where the component came from, I'd guess you shouldn't have any trouble getting Stern to replace the board. It's not feasible for the average person to remount a SMD component in the field, and assuming you never had the board off, the component coming off like that would only be some sort of manufacturing error.

#9624 1 year ago

Played the new code tonight. First game, 33 million, second game 3.2 billion...yes the consistency continues

#9625 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballConspiracy:

Feel like I can finally enjoy my Rush Pro Thanks to Gameroom Mods’ retention plastic for the inner orbit. I can just Play now and trust that the shot will register. Has been 100% since install. Also have Ninja scoop protector. 1.00 code Rocks btw

I've been considering this part myself. Can you comment on how it effects the ball? I'm sure it keeps it down but does it go through smoothly or bounce around? Does it cause rejects or anything odd?

#9626 1 year ago
Quoted from Wicked-Flip:

I've been considering this part myself. Can you comment on how it effects the ball? I'm sure it keeps it down but does it go through smoothly or bounce around? Does it cause rejects or anything odd?

Feels and looks factory. Very satisfying now. Smooth yes indeed but will keep play testing. Only had time for a few games

#9627 1 year ago

Has anyone else had an issue with downloading code updates?
My machine goes through (what seems like) the entire down load, then when done…
It looks like it never even started!

#9628 1 year ago
Quoted from Fussa71:

Has anyone else had an issue with downloading code updates?
My machine goes through (what seems like) the entire down load, then when done…
It looks like it never even started!

Yes. I think others have mentioned similar issues, stemming from the very poor wifi adapter the game uses. What I saw was the game would download extremely slowly, and then eventually (after hours of slow progress) it seemed to give up without leaving any sort of status message or anything. When I started the update again, it would resume where it left off, which I guess is better than nothing.

But at the end of the day, unless you can improve the wifi situation, e.g. by bringing the access point very close to the machine, or by using the wired Ethernet connector instead of wifi, you are probably better off downloading to your PC and then putting the files on a USB thumb drive for the actual update installation. Make sure the thumb drive is formatted as FAT32, not exFAT or NTFS, otherwise the machine won't recognize the drive.

(Another option is to use the SD card to update, but if I understand the instructions correctly for that, doing so will reset all the settings and high scores on the machine, which the other update methods don't do, so I figure that's a last resort, or for people who really want to keep a library of all the old versions of the code that they can swap in easily for whatever reason.)

#9629 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

How long did that game take??

45 minutes to an hour.

#9630 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

I looked everywhere visible and didn't see anything on the boards. I wrote Stern to see if they know, but right before I sent it, I ran through all the LED tests. The RGB LED pointing into the upper scoop is dark on all 3 colors. I'm guessing that's an RGB LED from that board? Asked Stern to confirm. Thanks all. Will let you know what I hear.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I had the exact same problem. I have been waiting since June for the board to be back in stock. Stern will be happy too, because I have been riding them like Sea Biscuit about how ridiculous it is to wait this long for a board. They keep telling me I should have it in another two weeks, to get me off their back. Please let me know what they tell you. I will let you know when I finally receive mine.

#9631 1 year ago

Holy friggin crap you guys! Just landed my highest game to date -- including reaching BOTH The Voyage and Hemispheres! In fact, this was my first time ever reaching Hemispheres, woot! (Thankfully I'd had a little practice at it via the standalone modes so I beat it too.)

It seemed the next goal would be 2112 but I was still fairly far off, only around 2072ish. I continued on, getting song modes and multiballs when I could but it rapidly became clear that I don't actually know what SPECIFICALLY sets up the Time Machine to advance the Time Travel year. Someone will need to explain this or I'll dig out the rulebook. I was at 2089 when my last ball drained.

So here's my new high. Interestingly, my previous high was only 200M lower than this, and I didn't get NEARLY this deep into the game. I must've been crushing the multiballs or something that time.

20220921_233158 (resized).jpg20220921_233158 (resized).jpg

#9632 1 year ago

anyone have a simple explanation of what builds the combo jackpot values? I see some values jump to 15-20m real quick and I need to know how

#9633 1 year ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Holy friggin crap you guys! Just landed my highest game to date -- including reaching BOTH The Voyage and Hemispheres! In fact, this was my first time ever reaching Hemispheres, woot! (Thankfully I'd had a little practice at it via the standalone modes so I beat it too.)
It seemed the next goal would be 2112 but I was still fairly far off, only around 2072ish. I continued on, getting song modes and multiballs when I could but it rapidly became clear that I don't actually know what SPECIFICALLY sets up the Time Machine to advance the Time Travel year. Someone will need to explain this or I'll dig out the rulebook. I was at 2089 when my last ball drained.
So here's my new high. Interestingly, my previous high was only 200M lower than this, and I didn't get NEARLY this deep into the game. I must've been crushing the multiballs or something that time.
[quoted image]

Killer! Yeah, you’ll wanna take a peek here on page 14: https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Rush-Rulesheet.pdf

In short: completing modes, doing well in the multiballs, finishing bastille day, racking up 1-2-3 combos all will advance years.

Instant info has a page showing all your years and which ones are still available (it’ll say like Big Money 5/10 which means you can get 5 more years out of big money)

#9634 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

anyone have a simple explanation of what builds the combo jackpot values? I see some values jump to 15-20m real quick and I need to know how

Each time you hit a 1,2, or 3, it scores points and adds those points to the jackpot. If there is a rainbow record on the 1,2,3 shot, then the multiplier will apply so you can quickly rack up some points. Example:

Base award 250k, so hitting the 1 builds 250k, then hitting a 2 will be 500k, the 3 is 750k, for a total of 250k + 500k + 750k = 1.5 mil.

Where it gets interesting is if you hit the shots in a combo (it will be flashing quickly) it will be double, and also if your bass is active it will be double again. Throw that on top of a rainbow record and you can see the example change drastically:

Base value 250k, 3x rainbow on spinner and side loop, with bass active, made in a combo:

Right ramp: 250k
Spinner: 500k x 3 x 2 x 2 = 6 mil
Side loop: 750k x 3 x 2 x 2 = 9 mil

Jackpot: 15,250,000.

And there’s nothing stopping you from hitting that same combo again and keep growing it. Hitting a different combo will of course add a multiplier to the whole jackpot….

#9635 1 year ago
Quoted from Theguyoverthere:

Killer! Yeah, you’ll wanna take a peek here on page 14: https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Rush-Rulesheet.pdf
In short: completing modes, doing well in the multiballs, finishing bastille day, racking up 1-2-3 combos all will advance years.
Instant info has a page showing all your years and which ones are still available (it’ll say like Big Money 5/10 which means you can get 5 more years out of big money)

This was SUPER helpful, thank you! Yeah I rocked a couple of the multiballs but I super stunk at a few of them too, so those could've made the difference. Great to be able to see where I was missing some years, so I can try to get those modes going to get a few more. THANK YOU! Awesome to have you right here with us, helping us see clearly.

#9636 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I had the exact same problem. I have been waiting since June for the board to be back in stock. Stern will be happy too, because I have been riding them like Sea Biscuit about how ridiculous it is to wait this long for a board. They keep telling me I should have it in another two weeks, to get me off their back. Please let me know what they tell you. I will let you know when I finally receive mine.

Hmmm. Normally, it wouldn't be feasible to try to repair this kind of problem, where a SMD component has fallen off the board. But...if there's a huge backlog getting replacement parts, it might be worth trying to repair the board, where it's just that the part fell off but you still have it.

With the right tools, it's doable. A hot air rework station is the main thing, along with various supplies (solder, flux, isopropyl alcohol, tweezers, etc.). If there's an electronics repair shop in the neighborhood (there often isn't, but you never know), or even just a maker space with some reasonably skilled people who hang out there, folks who have had components fall off might be able to find someone to solder the component back on.

Just a thought.

#9637 1 year ago
Quoted from Theguyoverthere:

And there’s nothing stopping you from hitting that same combo again and keep growing it.

Well, nothing other than my complete lack of skill....

11
#9638 1 year ago

I just wanted to brag on this pinball. I got my NIB a week ago and absolutley love this pin. Believe me when I say I had no clue who Rush was before this pin was made. We played it at SFGE in Atlanta, GA and found that it was very fun to shoot. However, we couldn't hear any of the music or callouts. I bought their greatest hits and the whole family loves the pin. To me it hits every checkmark and yes even the art is pretty good. Not sure why people have problems with the almost caricature portraits. jmho.

~ On a seperate note, I want to say I sold GZ Premium to get this Pin. GZ was a good pin, layout and design are superb. However, it was a miss on art and sound (Except for BOC song). I was worried I might regret the trade but honestly the time travel theme integration with Rush is very engulfing.

~ I still think K. Elwin will be the best in the future but J. Borg should walk tall around Stern because his games are solid in my household.

~ Deuces.

#9639 1 year ago

Hey all - i am having a very specific issue and I could not find anything in this thread touching on exactly what i am experiencing.

I am the original owner of this Rush Premium. About a month ago, the machine started randomly firing the scoop kickout intermittently. now it happens constantly during active gameplay, not on a specific rhythm but seemingly at random. Obviously the kickout fires when it thinks a ball is there so i have exhaustively checked and tested the opto. It tests 100% normal during switch test. It does not have random switch closures at all during test. Only during gameplay. I disassembled the metal trough and cleaned it, checked the switch wiring, etc. Disconnected and reconnected the plug on the node board that the switch goes to. I cant think of what to do next or what i could be missing.

any help or insight would be much appreciated!!

#9640 1 year ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

Hey all - i am having a very specific issue and I could not find anything in this thread touching on exactly what i am experiencing.
I am the original owner of this Rush Premium. About a month ago, the machine started randomly firing the scoop kickout intermittently. now it happens constantly during active gameplay, not on a specific rhythm but seemingly at random. Obviously the kickout fires when it thinks a ball is there so i have exhaustively checked and tested the opto. It tests 100% normal during switch test. It does not have random switch closures at all during test. Only during gameplay. I disassembled the metal trough and cleaned it, checked the switch wiring, etc. Disconnected and reconnected the plug on the node board that the switch goes to. I cant think of what to do next or what i could be missing.
any help or insight would be much appreciated!!

Not sure if this will help. But sometimes two wires can affect each other, (Wear and tear, or maybe a week spot in the insulation). Check the wire from the scoop all the way to the board and see if it is pinched anywhere. The idea is the wire to the scoop works fine but another wire could be inadvertantly triggering the scoop.

#9641 1 year ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

Hey all - i am having a very specific issue and I could not find anything in this thread touching on exactly what i am experiencing.
I am the original owner of this Rush Premium. About a month ago, the machine started randomly firing the scoop kickout intermittently. now it happens constantly during active gameplay, not on a specific rhythm but seemingly at random. Obviously the kickout fires when it thinks a ball is there so i have exhaustively checked and tested the opto. It tests 100% normal during switch test. It does not have random switch closures at all during test. Only during gameplay. I disassembled the metal trough and cleaned it, checked the switch wiring, etc. Disconnected and reconnected the plug on the node board that the switch goes to. I cant think of what to do next or what i could be missing.
any help or insight would be much appreciated!!

Check for wiring/grounding shorts to nearby lamps. Also check for any nicks in wiring insulation.

#9642 1 year ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

Hey all - i am having a very specific issue and I could not find anything in this thread touching on exactly what i am experiencing.
I am the original owner of this Rush Premium. About a month ago, the machine started randomly firing the scoop kickout intermittently. now it happens constantly during active gameplay, not on a specific rhythm but seemingly at random. Obviously the kickout fires when it thinks a ball is there so i have exhaustively checked and tested the opto. It tests 100% normal during switch test. It does not have random switch closures at all during test. Only during gameplay. I disassembled the metal trough and cleaned it, checked the switch wiring, etc. Disconnected and reconnected the plug on the node board that the switch goes to. I cant think of what to do next or what i could be missing.
any help or insight would be much appreciated!!

Did you clean the optos while you were in there? Dirty opto sensors can cause this. And yeah, I've seen these have issues in gameplay and show up just fine in the test menu... no idea why that happens, but I've definitely seen it on other games.

#9643 1 year ago
Quoted from bhelms:

Hi folks - getting a bit off recent topics here. How long have you waited for a warranty replacement Node 8 (or 9) board from Stern? They told me "e-mail back if you haven't received it in 3 weeks"; I've heard it can take months! I did an end-around and bought a replacement board from Nitro Pinball, had it in 48-hours! I paid twice the Stern list price ($99) but for me it was worth it to get back in business that fast. Most online retailers are simply out of stock for this item, typically at ~$130. Given that these node boards are a known weak link, I believe having a spare is essential to "operations" so I would probably have bought one at some point. And of course there's always that Murphy's Law corollary to help guide us: "If you have a spare on the shelf you'll never need it...!"
BTW - Stern's support thus far has been prompt, detailed, and valuable. The tech. support rep. worked me through a couple of issues successfully. There might be a comment to be made about the reliability of that node board, QC, etc. Underdesigned, perhaps? Or cheap components used? But the supply chain issue I might be experiencing is probably completlely out of their hands. I realize they can't stop production to send me a board.

UPDATE: Two interesting happenings yesterday. First I received the replacement node board from Stern! That was just 1 week from when it was ordered. I suppose I should install it to make sure it works. I'm giving Stern props for the quick service! Then I received notice from Nitro Pinball that they refunded $70 to my account making the price of the node board I ordered from them $129 which is what most other places are charging for it. I have no idea what prompted that refund…but I’ll take it! See post #9619. Nitro is on the (pin)ball...! Thanks Stern and Nitro...!

#9644 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

Hmmm. Normally, it wouldn't be feasible to try to repair this kind of problem, where a SMD component has fallen off the board. But...if there's a huge backlog getting replacement parts, it might be worth trying to repair the board, where it's just that the part fell off but you still have it.
With the right tools, it's doable. A hot air rework station is the main thing, along with various supplies (solder, flux, isopropyl alcohol, tweezers, etc.). If there's an electronics repair shop in the neighborhood (there often isn't, but you never know), or even just a maker space with some reasonably skilled people who hang out there, folks who have had components fall off might be able to find someone to solder the component back on.
Just a thought.

How are your soldering skills? Surface mount components are harder to work with than pass through traces, but totally doable. Worst case scenario is that you mess it up and need a new board... That's already on it's way.

#9645 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

What can this strange device be that I've found, when I touch it, it gives forth NO sound...
While examining the bottom of Rush, I found these. The little screw looks like the ones holding the ramp bumpers on, but all four are already there. The other thing "seems" like an LED on one side, but has 6 solder pads on the other side???? (Next to a "Magic Dime " for size comparison.) Any ideas what/ where these are???? Thank you!
[quoted image][quoted image]

As already discussed, this appears to be an RGB LED from board 9A. I've got some bad news for you though... to my eyes in your picture it looks like the LED pulled the solder pads off when it separated. This will make it VERY difficult to reattach to the existing board. Not impossible, but would probably need to be done by someone with some serious skills. Hopefully Stern isn't having problems sending out those boards like they are node 10...

#9646 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

Since you've already looped Stern in, maybe you've got this all figured out, but your plea piqued my curiosity so I took a look, and yes...the RGB modules look like the thing you took a picture of. I admit it does have a similar shape to the SMD inductor components (suggested by someone else), but those are much larger, with part #'s printed on them.
You mention the upper scoop arrow insert lamp being out. Here's a photo of what that component (LED12 on board 9A, framed in red in the photo) looks like on my machine:
[quoted image]
On my board, the LED package has a white base, but otherwise it (and all the other RGB lamps) looks pretty much the same as the component you asked about. Minor differences in packaging like that wouldn't be unusual, especially these days with manufacturers getting electronic components from wherever they can at any given time.
I'll bet if you unfastened your own 9A board and (carefully, so as to not scrape any other components off the board by accidentally hitting something hard on the playfield underside) turned the board over so you can see where LED12 is, you'll find it missing.
I'm sure you can easily figure out where the board is, given you already know which lamp is not working, but just to be complete here's the board layout drawing from the machine manual showing where board 9A is on the underside of the playfield. The board itself is labeled "6", but that's just the ID on the table on the page. The board's actual name is "9A":
[quoted image]
If/when you confirm that's where the component came from, I'd guess you shouldn't have any trouble getting Stern to replace the board. It's not feasible for the average person to remount a SMD component in the field, and assuming you never had the board off, the component coming off like that would only be some sort of manufacturing error.

A standard soldering iron tip is way too big for this type of work. A hummingbird style tip at a minimum but a heat station is best.

IMG_20220922_095000569_HDR.jpgIMG_20220922_095000569_HDR.jpg
#9647 1 year ago
Quoted from Big_Whoopin:

As already discussed, this appears to be an RGB LED from board 9A. I've got some bad news for you though... to my eyes in your picture it looks like the LED pulled the solder pads off when it separated. This will make it VERY difficult to reattach to the existing board. Not impossible, but would probably need to be done by someone with some serious skills. Hopefully Stern isn't having problems sending out those boards like they are node 10...

Ah, good catch. Yeah, repairing the traces is much trickier, best left to a professional.

Repair shops who could handle this are scattered around the country, sadly not as common as they might have used to be. There is one Internet-famous shop with their own YouTube channel, here: https://www.youtube.com/c/NorthridgeFix. They take mail-in boards. Don't know what they'd charge, probably better to just wait for the replacement, but thought I'd mention them because the tech who makes their videos is extremely competent.

If nothing else, one could watch their videos to get an idea of what's involved in fixing traces. It's not rocket science, but it clearly requires good tools and a steady hand.

#9648 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

Since you've already looped Stern in, maybe you've got this all figured out, but your plea piqued my curiosity so I took a look, and yes...the RGB modules look like the thing you took a picture of. I admit it does have a similar shape to the SMD inductor components (suggested by someone else), but those are much larger, with part #'s printed on them.
You mention the upper scoop arrow insert lamp being out. Here's a photo of what that component (LED12 on board 9A, framed in red in the photo) looks like on my machine:
[quoted image]
On my board, the LED package has a white base, but otherwise it (and all the other RGB lamps) looks pretty much the same as the component you asked about. Minor differences in packaging like that wouldn't be unusual, especially these days with manufacturers getting electronic components from wherever they can at any given time.
I'll bet if you unfastened your own 9A board and (carefully, so as to not scrape any other components off the board by accidentally hitting something hard on the playfield underside) turned the board over so you can see where LED12 is, you'll find it missing.
I'm sure you can easily figure out where the board is, given you already know which lamp is not working, but just to be complete here's the board layout drawing from the machine manual showing where board 9A is on the underside of the playfield. The board itself is labeled "6", but that's just the ID on the table on the page. The board's actual name is "9A":
[quoted image]
If/when you confirm that's where the component came from, I'd guess you shouldn't have any trouble getting Stern to replace the board. It's not feasible for the average person to remount a SMD component in the field, and assuming you never had the board off, the component coming off like that would only be some sort of manufacturing error.

Thank you for the investigative work. I really appreciate it. I have not TOUCHED that board, so I hope Stern will send me one. Parts should not be falling off in normal use. I did yesterday pull out the manual and confirm the tests match that board you indicate. I'm not looking unless they ask me to. For now it's a bummer cause the scoop is dark and makes it harder to play properly. Stern hasn't answered either of my 2 emails yet. I'm sure they're busy there. Waiting patiently for now. Thanks again for your help.

#9649 1 year ago
Quoted from OutpostKodelia:

Did you clean the optos while you were in there? Dirty opto sensors can cause this. And yeah, I've seen these have issues in gameplay and show up just fine in the test menu... no idea why that happens, but I've definitely seen it on other games.

I had to get replacement optos from Stern for this. No amount of cleaning or adjusting could correct the problem for me. New optos solved this 100%

#9650 1 year ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

Haven’t seen much mentioned other than Node 10 boards, seems to be 1-3 month turnaround. I was just shy 2 months, for the spinner target and decals replacement I received.

Submitted request for node 10 board first week of July. after a couple nagging emails this week, got confirmation that ill get some from the batch that just came in..

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