This is common unfortunately. Stern does not view this as a manufacturer fault. I have it on mine, my mustang had it years back and its still fine. Dont stress about it and enjoy your game.

I agree (except I am not very familiar with LZ.

I find the dead end to be about the easiest shot on the game. And the most deadly, I get more than my share of STDMs.

I ordered these art blades before I got my Pro and I realize they really don’t match the artwork well so now I’m debating whether to put them on or not. Have any of you used these on your Pro’s and have pics you could share and or what else are you guys using? I found ones that match but looks like the store is in the UK. Thanks.

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Yeah those are based off the LE. And of course don’t need them on an LE because they come with the expression lighting. If my LE did not have the expression lighting I still would not get them. They don’t match the playfield.

I would get these from wizardmod and when the expression lighting comes out get those. Bought from them a few times and just bought from them again for my Rush LE and Jurassic Park premium.

https://wizardmod.com/products/rush-stern-pinball-wizblades?_pos=1&_sid=2a5130157&_ss=r

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Cool thanks. I did look at those the other day and forgot about that company. Appreciate the info.

Not planking...just poor PF prep, common with newer Sterns. I had awful wood grain showing like this on my Iron Maiden...Stern doesn't consider this a problem.

Little known fact, Roll the Bones was actually written about the playfield lottery.

Rarely if ever SDTM.

Your welcome. Great quality. Takes a little time to get here but worth it.

Bought Rush from the Marco booth during a show. In switch test, the radio spinner and right orbit register exactly as they're supposed to. But in game mode they seem reversed. If I start working man for example and hit the orbit, the mode insert for the spinner goes out instead of the orbit, and vice versa. Even as this happens, the spinner sound is correct and heard only when the spinner is hit. Any suggestions?

You sure it isn't the lights that are swapped?

My guess is this is wood that hasn't been properly acclimated for moisture. Wood shrinks/swells pretty dramatically with moisture content. If you don't season wood, you'll get all sorts of problems. Given the shortages in construction materials the last 18 months, who knows where the plywood is sourced. If not properly kilned and dried, shrinkage is the result.

If you apply a finish to wood that isn't properly dry, subsequent shrinkage will look like the planking in these photos. You can get issues the other way, too. Really dry wood brought into moist environments (generaly, RH>50%) can also cause problems. The musical instrument folks are constantly fighting these issues.

Interesting find this afternoon under the Time Machine ramp as I replace a few of the side screws that went AWOL and replace the blue rubber bumpers with NinjaCamp black bumpers - the bundled wires connected to the long range opto emitter/receiver assemblies is chafing where it's rubbing against the white plastic guides. Already through the wrapping to where you can see the yellow wire coating. This is after 469 plays and looks to be a point of future failure - any thoughts on how to best add protection here without too much ramp up/down friction addition?

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This would fit the symptoms. I’ll check, thanks

Lower your flipper strength from factory and all the shots are better. The dead end won't give bad feeds then.

I prefer the dead end as a target. The ball stays busy enough and you can get some free side scoop action and sometimes it feeds to the upper flipper and targets. More randomness for sure but its generally quite safe and benefits play.

Certainly possible. A friend of mine has a #star-wars-stern-le that had the two arrow LED boards for the left orbit switched (the regular shot arrow and the X arrow). Came that way from the factory.

I'm not sure how long it would hold up, but you could get a plastic straw, split it open, then wrap it around the wiring. It would produce less friction and probably hold up longer than the rubber, especially now that there is a catch-point with that tear.

Two weeks ago, I wouldn't have been able to name a Rush song, but of course, I had heard several of them over the years--just never followed them or knew which songs on the classic rock stations were theirs. I sent my frustratingly difficult Star Wars premium out for a Rush premium and even low scoring games on this are filled with satisfying shots, fun modes, and good pin playing music. I went with an Eddy sandwich for my trio until Halloween arrives.

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Here are some 10 band settings I found from the Led Zepplin owners thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-zeppelin-le-thread/page/44#post-6132748

If it isn't going to get any worst, I would not worry about it. Those are extreme close ups and I am sure when standing in front of the machine it does not even look close to those pictures.

Listen... I understand that these machines are $$$ but some people are taking things a bit too far when it comes to what should be excepted or not IMO.

Yes, I’m going to put the original ones back in and watch what happens. As far as I can tell, there’s nothing wrong with the Stern balls but everyone says swap them out so I wanted to see if there was a difference.

I just had to repair a failure in the ramp opto receiver wires on a location game with probably a couple thousand games on it. Definitely a point of failure for Prem/LE games with the ramp going up and down. I expect we'll see more of this as time passes. Perhaps you could preemptively give it a few wraps of electrical tape so it takes the wear instead of the wire. But in the one I fixed, the jacketing seemed fine, the broken wire was inside the jacket, so it seems to have broken internally from flexing, not from abrasion.

Thanks Inscribed Solutions!!

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Hey thanks! This made sense and was exactly the issue. 2 node board cables were swapped. Fixed right up.

I’m not sure if this issue has been addressed here, but on a fast shot up the Rush ramp (when diverting to the left) the ball is flying of the left ramp and onto the playfield. Could be a leveling issue.
Anyone else deal with this?

I get this occasionally. My machine is pretty level. I assume my wire frame is slightly twisted or something leading to the occasional slip.

This was happening on one of the Premiums at Southern Fried Gaming Expo that I was playing. The guys there checked if the game was level, and it was ... looked to me like the habitrail was a little low on one side. Might want to loosen the nuts holding that habitrail in place and then shift its position around slightly and see if that fixes it.

FWIW, it's never, ever happened on my game at home.

Happens very infrequently on my game...only when the ball is traveling at light speeds. I've turned my flipper power down, but the game still plays very fast/strong (which I like). I'm sure the habitrail can be bent/tweaked, but I haven't seen the need yet.

Cool videos. Really explains what I could NOT understand before. Fwiw, my Premium has NEVER done this in over 1000 plays. I wonder if the gate swings too freely? Not sure.

.........

Sorry your pro translite wasn't to your liking. I personally LOVE the premium art in total. Moving Pictures is my favorite album, and I also love Test For Echo. You get a lot of those along with Presto, fly by night, and 2112 (and the Rush album) in the premium art. Hope it grows on you.

Dude, that sucks. Not supposed to look that way.

anyone have the right hand side pop bumper stick down? Have not taken a good look at it yet but thought perhaps an inherent problem mentioned somewhere before? cheers

Mine didn't have this problem, but I know many did (including my friend Greg). Here is a post he made awhile ago...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/31#post-6802915

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The metal ring of the pop bumper is likely rubbing against the back of the scoop. Some people have removed the ring and ground a little bit of it away with a dremel.

Some games have this problem, others don’t. Part of the hand assembled part of pinball, I guess.

I recently made a topic on this here : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-rush-pro-pop-bumper-getting-stuck-are-pimples-normal-on-pf

As other have said, you could file the metal ring a little bit. It makes sense but I did not try it yet.

I have this too. I wasn’t exactly sure where it was happening but what you say makes sense. I’m going to try ever so slightly bending the habitrail up on the outside of the corner. That really helped on some other games (like the Indy 500 turbobobby exit habitrail)

Good eye, I'll have to check for this on mine. While further protecting the wire would be good, it doesn't address the root problem. The P-clip has a sharp (90°) edge to it that is digging into the cable as it reaches the most extreme pressure of the movement. What I'll be looking to do on mine is remove the P-clamp and try to smooth that edge. Knife, Dremel, maybe melting with a trash soldering iron tip. Something to smooth and taper that edge of the clip.

I dropped the main flipper power to 230 yesterday. Shots feel so much better, Also seemed to help reduce the rejects in the spinner shot.

If you have a phone capable of doing slow-mo video, would you mind taking some of shots to the spinner lane? I'd like to see how the gate and ball move on yours. Maybe there is something different with your game that we could easily replicate on ours. PM me if you need help with how to do it

Until recently I only played the Pro version of Rush in a fairly lit room but yesterday I was playing my Premium and I got to a mode I did not remember seeing before, probably due to ambient lighting.

Question.

Is there a mode in Rush that turns off almost all the GI lighting or a mode where the playfield starts to go almost completely dark? If so, what mode is it?

Fly By Night multiball does this.

Fly By Night multiball dims the GI as you score Jackpots, Super is lit when its completely black.

Best mode in the game!

Oh man, I love this! I swear I had the whole playfield blacked out, it was super cool!

Code in Rush is top notch! Some of the best IMO!!

Installed my NinjaCamp Soft Plunge Corrector yesterday and man what a difference. No more lane rattle when attempting the skill shots. A great fix!

Yup, I noticed a huge improvement, took literally 2 minutes to lift field and install.

Agree. I put one in my shooter lane and it definitely calmed the rattle I would sometimes get on a manual soft-plunge.

While speaking of NinjaCamp mods, are people really putting rubber covers on the scoop blades? The scoops on Rush sound like any other scoop to me, be it Elvira's HoH or a Whirlwind. A nice clang and thunk when you make the shot.

Does this noise bother some people? Not to be mean or anything, but I've never heard of such a thing until these Rush scoop covers came out.

Lucky you, I couldn't manage to get the piece on without removing a side plastic. Just couldn't get my hands at a good angle to get piece over the wire.

Still didn't take long, but probably closer to 10 mins than 5 for me.