Quoted from Paddy-o:

Not sure why you think he/she works for Spooky. Didn't see anything on their profile, other than a play on that picture, that would give any impression that he/she works for Spooky. Unless you're trying to be funny, and I missed it.

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Anyone else getting to the point where you're driving in your car (or whatever other non-pinball setting), a particular Rush song comes on, and you automatically think about what shots you need to hit?
Tom Sawyer came on in my car yesterday and I immediately had a 'light blue' vibe and thought "ok shoot the orbits first" ...

Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Makes me feel that much better about dumping my Ultraman preorder and going with RUSH instead.
Can't speak firsthand re: UM's gameplay enjoyability, but I know I'm lovin' RUSH's!

Quoted from Paddy-o:

Not sure why you think he/she works for Spooky. Didn't see anything on their profile, other than a play on that picture, that would give any impression that he/she works for Spooky. Unless you're trying to be funny, and I missed it.

Quoted from Paddy-o:

Not sure why you think he/she works for Spooky. Didn't see anything on their profile, other than a play on that picture, that would give any impression that he/she works for Spooky. Unless you're trying to be funny, and I missed it.

Quoted from Animal:

I don't care, but the point is, it is not professional.

Quoted from Vino:

Spooky didn’t like Rush much.
Everyone is entitled to their opinion but not sure doing it with consideration of peers in the same business is the best look.

Quoted from konjurer:

Good grief people! What are you guys reading into that post? Overall the person was respectful. The poster made one comment about the "bit of a miss" on the art work. The rest of the points were neutral, could be taken as positive or positive.

Quoted from konjurer:

Good grief people! What are you guys reading into that post? Overall the person was respectful. The poster made one comment about the "bit of a miss" on the art work. The rest of the points were neutral, could be taken as positive or positive.

Quoted from snaroff:

It's a Spooky employee, not Charlie (the founder). No big deal.

Quoted from shaub:

The thing is, I don't see any indication that that person is even a Spooky employee.

Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

peters82 is Luke Peters - a Spooky employee (not to be confused with "Spooky Luke" who has co-designed Halloween & Ultraman with Bug Emery)

Unless you follow the threads for those games, it's probably not evident.

Quoted from swampfire:

This line of discussion is kinda ridiculous if you ask me. Someone posted an honest but mostly respectful game review. Who cares who they work for? Save your vitriol for the assholes who post a review like “this game is a turd, I walked away before playing my 3rd ball” and rate it a 3.4.

Quoted from Reality_Studio:

are your outlane posts set like mine?

Quoted from konjurer:

My Pro shipped with the post in the lowest (narrowest) position. But the lanes are still vicious drain monsters.

Quoted from Reality_Studio:

Yup, I didn't mind his post at all, it seemed respectful to me.
Side note, how in hell are some of you getting such high scores? My best is still just 144 million I do get a lot of side drains though, so for those that seem to get crazy high scores are your outlane posts set like mine? I usually just leave stuff as it came from the factory figuring that's how it was intended, but crikey I can't get anywhere near the scores y'all are getting.[quoted image]

Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Makes me feel that much better about dumping my Ultraman preorder and going with RUSH instead.
Can't speak firsthand re: UM's gameplay enjoyability, but I know I'm lovin' RUSH's!

Quoted from DakotaMike:

Ha, I did the same. I learned an expensive lesson on that one.
Just setup my Rush Premium today. Super fun. So far no issues out of the box. I dialed the upper-flipper power down to 182, based on advice in this thread. Ramp is easily makable and I haven't I yet had any loop shots not register, but I haven't made many yet, so we'll see!
One thing that I love about Rusg, is the fact that you can make 4 different shots from the upper flipper. So cool.
Rush is now sitting next to Metallica on the end of our Music Row in The Pinball Room.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Reality_Studio:

Yup, I didn't mind his post at all, it seemed respectful to me.
Side note, how in hell are some of you getting such high scores? My best is still just 144 million I do get a lot of side drains though, so for those that seem to get crazy high scores are your outlane posts set like mine? I usually just leave stuff as it came from the factory figuring that's how it was intended, but crikey I can't get anywhere near the scores y'all are getting.[quoted image]

Quoted from VisitorQ:

I'll be the first to say it, the artwork is not very good IMO but with that said... It didn't stop me! Arrived today!!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Calgedy:

Are you a RUSH fan? I can see that, if you had no idea what all the artwork pertains to. For most Rush fans, all the albums that are represented on the backglass and cabinet (LE) are simply amazing. Perfect for the lifelong RUSH fan, but not so much for the casual fan or someone who knows little about the band. I own an LE, and the art package is incredible.....from the Permanent Waves girl, to the dog/hydrant to the Hemispheres naked man and brain and the guitar coming out of the drum and time machine. The cabinet IMO is even better. 10 albums represented on the cabinet alone. Anyways I respect your opinion, just wondering if you are a fan?? I am not a huge fan of the PRO cabinet artwork. Not too crazy about the cartoonish nature of it. We all have our likes and dislikes so I get it. All 3 backglasses are epic.

Quoted from Freedom:

Can someone please let me know about the fix-mod to get the inner orbit switch registering ?
Love this game.

Quoted from texas_compadre:

Shooting the inner loop on my Rush Premium was registering only about every third time I made the shot, and after researching the problem here and elsewhere, I was buying into the "airball" theory.
But after spending waaaaaayyyyyy too many hours thoroughly troubleshooting the issue both on the game and on my kitchen table with a multimeter, I learned that the switch doesn't register consistently for a combination of reasons (none of which are "airballs").
First, I ordered and installed the magnetic replacement switch from M&M Creations. No luck. In fact, that switch wouldn't register at all during a game. It would, however, register, in switch test mode, when I waved a screwdriver or other metal object over it... just not a pinball. I removed the M&M switch from the machine and broke out the multimeter. Turns out the M&M switch is a normally closed switch that opens if a metal object --other than a pinball-- moves over it. I tried chrome pinballs, carbon steel pinballs, cheap ball bearing pinballs, rusted pinballs, magnetized pinballs, demagnetized pinballs... no pinball will trigger the M&M Creations switch; has to be a screwdriver, pliers, or other metal object. Weird, but then, I'm not that well-versed in conductivity and magnetism - could be that I received a faulty switch from M&M Creations.
Next, I put the multimeter on the stock Stern (500-9935-04) switch that came out of the game. It checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator on the switch was pressed.
So I ordered two replacement 500-9935-04 switches from Pinball Life. Before installing, I put the multimeter on both of them... same issue... both checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator was pressed. After scratching my head for some time, I took a pair of needlenose pliers and bent the actuator blade slightly up off the actuator button on one of the new switches, and bingo! It became a normally open switch that closed when the actuator was pressed... now I was getting somewhere.
Or so I thought.
Once I wired the new 500-9935-04 switch in and secured it to the playfield, the switch was locked closed and wouldn't change states when the actuator was pressed. Turns out these microswitches are so delicate that just removing or installing one can alter the actuator and turn it into an "always closed" switch. The tolerance is practically microscopic, and the way it fits in when screwed into position can also lock it closed if the wire bend is touching the wood under the playfield.
Finally, the actuator arm doesn't protrude high enough out of its slot in the playfield when the switch is installed - I had to bend the wire part of the actuator arm (strategically, in several places) to get the switch to register consistently without ambiguity. Having gone through all of that, I now have the switch registering every time the ball rolls over it in gameplay, no matter how fast.
So... the problem isn't "airballs" flying over the switch and not tripping it; the problem is state ambiguity within the switch itself (the switches simply aren't reliable) and the tight tolerance within which it needs to be adjusted both above and below the playfield to avoid said state ambiguity. Bottom line: bad microswitch design, bad design on Stern's part in choosing this particular microswitch. And for what it's worth, some of the current "fixes" being offered ($$$) to address the issue simply won't work. Until a reliable solution comes along, the fix is going to be trial-and-error removal, bending, and refitting the stock switch until it works reliably and consistently. Quite a pain in the ass.

Quoted from texas_compadre:

Shooting the inner loop on my Rush Premium was registering only about every third time I made the shot, and after researching the problem here and elsewhere, I was buying into the "airball" theory.
But after spending waaaaaayyyyyy too many hours thoroughly troubleshooting the issue both on the game and on my kitchen table with a multimeter, I learned that the switch doesn't register consistently for a combination of reasons (none of which are "airballs").
First, I ordered and installed the magnetic replacement switch from M&M Creations. No luck. In fact, that switch wouldn't register at all during a game. It would, however, register, in switch test mode, when I waved a screwdriver or other metal object over it... just not a pinball. I removed the M&M switch from the machine and broke out the multimeter. Turns out the M&M switch is a normally closed switch that opens if a metal object --other than a pinball-- moves over it. I tried chrome pinballs, carbon steel pinballs, cheap ball bearing pinballs, rusted pinballs, magnetized pinballs, demagnetized pinballs... no pinball will trigger the M&M Creations switch; has to be a screwdriver, pliers, or other metal object. Weird, but then, I'm not that well-versed in conductivity and magnetism - could be that I received a faulty switch from M&M Creations.
Next, I put the multimeter on the stock Stern (500-9935-04) switch that came out of the game. It checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator on the switch was pressed.
So I ordered two replacement 500-9935-04 switches from Pinball Life. Before installing, I put the multimeter on both of them... same issue... both checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator was pressed. After scratching my head for some time, I took a pair of needlenose pliers and bent the actuator blade slightly up off the actuator button on one of the new switches, and bingo! It became a normally open switch that closed when the actuator was pressed... now I was getting somewhere.
Or so I thought.
Once I wired the new 500-9935-04 switch in and secured it to the playfield, the switch was locked closed and wouldn't change states when the actuator was pressed. Turns out these microswitches are so delicate that just removing or installing one can alter the actuator and turn it into an "always closed" switch. The tolerance is practically microscopic, and the way it fits in when screwed into position can also lock it closed if the wire bend is touching the wood under the playfield.
Finally, the actuator arm doesn't protrude high enough out of its slot in the playfield when the switch is installed - I had to bend the wire part of the actuator arm (strategically, in several places) to get the switch to register consistently without ambiguity. Having gone through all of that, I now have the switch registering every time the ball rolls over it in gameplay, no matter how fast.
So... the problem isn't "airballs" flying over the switch and not tripping it; the problem is state ambiguity within the switch itself (the switches simply aren't reliable) and the tight tolerance within which it needs to be adjusted both above and below the playfield to avoid said state ambiguity. Bottom line: bad microswitch design, bad design on Stern's part in choosing this particular microswitch. And for what it's worth, some of the current "fixes" being offered ($$$) to address the issue simply won't work. Until a reliable solution comes along, the fix is going to be trial-and-error removal, bending, and refitting the stock switch until it works reliably and consistently. Quite a pain in the ass.

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Well, mine was registering less than 75% I'd say from factory. I put in the felt fix and improved dramatically. Then added m&m, and I'd say it's 99% now. So they do work, not sure why yours isn't. Hope you figure it out, much better scoring when it's functional

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Well, mine was registering less than 75% I'd say from factory. I put in the felt fix and improved dramatically. Then added m&m, and I'd say it's 99% now. So they do work, not sure why yours isn't. Hope you figure it out, much better scoring when it's functional

Quoted from texas_compadre:

Shooting the inner loop on my Rush Premium was registering only about every third time I made the shot, and after researching the problem here and elsewhere, I was buying into the "airball" theory.
But after spending waaaaaayyyyyy too many hours thoroughly troubleshooting the issue both on the game and on my kitchen table with a multimeter, I learned that the switch doesn't register consistently for a combination of reasons (none of which are "airballs").
First, I ordered and installed the magnetic replacement switch from M&M Creations. No luck. In fact, that switch wouldn't register at all during a game. It would, however, register, in switch test mode, when I waved a screwdriver or other metal object over it... just not a pinball. I removed the M&M switch from the machine and broke out the multimeter. Turns out the M&M switch is a normally closed switch that opens if a metal object --other than a pinball-- moves over it. I tried chrome pinballs, carbon steel pinballs, cheap ball bearing pinballs, rusted pinballs, magnetized pinballs, demagnetized pinballs... no pinball will trigger the M&M Creations switch; has to be a screwdriver, pliers, or other metal object. Weird, but then, I'm not that well-versed in conductivity and magnetism - could be that I received a faulty switch from M&M Creations.
Next, I put the multimeter on the stock Stern (500-9935-04) switch that came out of the game. It checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator on the switch was pressed.
So I ordered two replacement 500-9935-04 switches from Pinball Life. Before installing, I put the multimeter on both of them... same issue... both checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator was pressed. After scratching my head for some time, I took a pair of needlenose pliers and bent the actuator blade slightly up off the actuator button on one of the new switches, and bingo! It became a normally open switch that closed when the actuator was pressed... now I was getting somewhere.
Or so I thought.
Once I wired the new 500-9935-04 switch in and secured it to the playfield, the switch was locked closed and wouldn't change states when the actuator was pressed. Turns out these microswitches are so delicate that just removing or installing one can alter the actuator and turn it into an "always closed" switch. The tolerance is practically microscopic, and the way it fits in when screwed into position can also lock it closed if the wire bend is touching the wood under the playfield.
Finally, the actuator arm doesn't protrude high enough out of its slot in the playfield when the switch is installed - I had to bend the wire part of the actuator arm (strategically, in several places) to get the switch to register consistently without ambiguity. Having gone through all of that, I now have the switch registering every time the ball rolls over it in gameplay, no matter how fast.
So... the problem isn't "airballs" flying over the switch and not tripping it; the problem is state ambiguity within the switch itself (the switches simply aren't reliable) and the tight tolerance within which it needs to be adjusted both above and below the playfield to avoid said state ambiguity. Bottom line: bad microswitch design, bad design on Stern's part in choosing this particular microswitch. And for what it's worth, some of the current "fixes" being offered ($$$) to address the issue simply won't work. Until a reliable solution comes along, the fix is going to be trial-and-error removal, bending, and refitting the stock switch until it works reliably and consistently. Quite a pain in the ass.

Quoted from texas_compadre:

Shooting the inner loop on my Rush Premium was registering only about every third time I made the shot, and after researching the problem here and elsewhere, I was buying into the "airball" theory.
But after spending waaaaaayyyyyy too many hours thoroughly troubleshooting the issue both on the game and on my kitchen table with a multimeter, I learned that the switch doesn't register consistently for a combination of reasons (none of which are "airballs").
First, I ordered and installed the magnetic replacement switch from M&M Creations. No luck. In fact, that switch wouldn't register at all during a game. It would, however, register, in switch test mode, when I waved a screwdriver or other metal object over it... just not a pinball. I removed the M&M switch from the machine and broke out the multimeter. Turns out the M&M switch is a normally closed switch that opens if a metal object --other than a pinball-- moves over it. I tried chrome pinballs, carbon steel pinballs, cheap ball bearing pinballs, rusted pinballs, magnetized pinballs, demagnetized pinballs... no pinball will trigger the M&M Creations switch; has to be a screwdriver, pliers, or other metal object. Weird, but then, I'm not that well-versed in conductivity and magnetism - could be that I received a faulty switch from M&M Creations.
Next, I put the multimeter on the stock Stern (500-9935-04) switch that came out of the game. It checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator on the switch was pressed.
So I ordered two replacement 500-9935-04 switches from Pinball Life. Before installing, I put the multimeter on both of them... same issue... both checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator was pressed. After scratching my head for some time, I took a pair of needlenose pliers and bent the actuator blade slightly up off the actuator button on one of the new switches, and bingo! It became a normally open switch that closed when the actuator was pressed... now I was getting somewhere.
Or so I thought.
Once I wired the new 500-9935-04 switch in and secured it to the playfield, the switch was locked closed and wouldn't change states when the actuator was pressed. Turns out these microswitches are so delicate that just removing or installing one can alter the actuator and turn it into an "always closed" switch. The tolerance is practically microscopic, and the way it fits in when screwed into position can also lock it closed if the wire bend is touching the wood under the playfield.
Finally, the actuator arm doesn't protrude high enough out of its slot in the playfield when the switch is installed - I had to bend the wire part of the actuator arm (strategically, in several places) to get the switch to register consistently without ambiguity. Having gone through all of that, I now have the switch registering every time the ball rolls over it in gameplay, no matter how fast.
So... the problem isn't "airballs" flying over the switch and not tripping it; the problem is state ambiguity within the switch itself (the switches simply aren't reliable) and the tight tolerance within which it needs to be adjusted both above and below the playfield to avoid said state ambiguity. Bottom line: bad microswitch design, bad design on Stern's part in choosing this particular microswitch. And for what it's worth, some of the current "fixes" being offered ($$$) to address the issue simply won't work. Until a reliable solution comes along, the fix is going to be trial-and-error removal, bending, and refitting the stock switch until it works reliably and consistently. Quite a pain in the ass.

Quoted from Lermods:

See post 5836, I detailed this earlier. Bending that switch has been a 100% fix for me with no ball traps. Like you said, there is a little trial and error, but at least the switch is easy to access. It was a 5 minute fix. Btw, this is the same issue and fix for the hairpin turn on mando.
I think stern maybe should have used an opto here instead of a mechanical switch

Quoted from wtatumjr:

Look what just showed up! Dog approved!
[quoted image]

Quoted from texas_compadre:

Mine is registering 100% of the time with the stock switch now that I have the switch working as it should and interfaced properly with the game. I hope everyone finds a fix that works for them - I just wanted to make the point that the "airball" theory is incorrect - that's not what's causing the problem.

Quoted from Deyanks98:

I installed a Shaker Motor Kit last night and I'm not sure if it's just this pin or the shaker but it doesn't seem as active as it is on most of my pins I've used them on. Or I should say it's not as rumbling or force full as my other pins where with shakers in them. For instance on my Mando Pro I had to turn it down to moderate use and not the highest setting as it was extremely powerful in that pin. I noticed in the settings for Rush the highest setting is called long which is different then the setting my Godzilla. Am I missing anything? I buy my shakers from Pinball Life and it's the Rev C kit for Spike and Spike 2 system games.

Quoted from texas_compadre:

Mine is registering 100% of the time with the stock switch now that I have the switch working as it should and interfaced properly with the game. I hope everyone finds a fix that works for them - I just wanted to make the point that the "airball" theory is incorrect - that's not what's causing the problem.

Quoted from Calgedy:

I LOVE that artwork you displayed! Money......and yes one can dislike the artwork even if they knew all the albums and inside stuff. Preference of taste......I just think it is easier to like it if you know what it all means.

Quoted from John1210:

I take it VisiorQ that you weren't around for the Stern style guide photoshop days?
This art package is really nice, not too busy and is its own thing.

Quoted from VisitorQ:

Thank You.
Yes. Understood...

hahahahaha
I was! I guess I forgot about those days and for good reason.
Art is very subjective. I am not saying the art in the game is terrible, it's just drawn in a different style than what I truly enjoy. Maybe after owning the pin it will start to grow on me? However you slice it, it's a great game none the less!

Quoted from mstang01:

I never thought twice about the faces on the playfield, to me it just looked like ‘70s van airbrush art… which seemed appropriate

Quoted from j_m_:

why does it appear that the [right] dog approves, but the [left] dog is angry? is [left] dog more of a zeppelin or gnr fan?

Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

I installed the NinjaCamp inner loop fix and all has been well since.
Easy peasy lemon squeezy. End of story.

Quoted from mstang01:

I never thought twice about the faces on the playfield, to me it just looked like ‘70s van airbrush art… which seemed appropriate

Quoted from texas_compadre:

Shooting the inner loop on my Rush Premium was registering only about every third time I made the shot, and after researching the problem here and elsewhere, I was buying into the "airball" theory.
But after spending waaaaaayyyyyy too many hours thoroughly troubleshooting the issue both on the game and on my kitchen table with a multimeter, I learned that the switch doesn't register consistently for a combination of reasons (none of which are "airballs").
First, I ordered and installed the magnetic replacement switch from M&M Creations. No luck. In fact, that switch wouldn't register at all during a game. It would, however, register, in switch test mode, when I waved a screwdriver or other metal object over it... just not a pinball. I removed the M&M switch from the machine and broke out the multimeter. Turns out the M&M switch is a normally closed switch that opens if a metal object --other than a pinball-- moves over it. I tried chrome pinballs, carbon steel pinballs, cheap ball bearing pinballs, rusted pinballs, magnetized pinballs, demagnetized pinballs... no pinball will trigger the M&M Creations switch; has to be a screwdriver, pliers, or other metal object. Weird, but then, I'm not that well-versed in conductivity and magnetism - could be that I received a faulty switch from M&M Creations.
Next, I put the multimeter on the stock Stern (500-9935-04) switch that came out of the game. It checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator on the switch was pressed.
So I ordered two replacement 500-9935-04 switches from Pinball Life. Before installing, I put the multimeter on both of them... same issue... both checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator was pressed. After scratching my head for some time, I took a pair of needlenose pliers and bent the actuator blade slightly up off the actuator button on one of the new switches, and bingo! It became a normally open switch that closed when the actuator was pressed... now I was getting somewhere.
Or so I thought.
Once I wired the new 500-9935-04 switch in and secured it to the playfield, the switch was locked closed and wouldn't change states when the actuator was pressed. Turns out these microswitches are so delicate that just removing or installing one can alter the actuator and turn it into an "always closed" switch. The tolerance is practically microscopic, and the way it fits in when screwed into position can also lock it closed if the wire bend is touching the wood under the playfield.
Finally, the actuator arm doesn't protrude high enough out of its slot in the playfield when the switch is installed - I had to bend the wire part of the actuator arm (strategically, in several places) to get the switch to register consistently without ambiguity. Having gone through all of that, I now have the switch registering every time the ball rolls over it in gameplay, no matter how fast.
So... the problem isn't "airballs" flying over the switch and not tripping it; the problem is state ambiguity within the switch itself (the switches simply aren't reliable) and the tight tolerance within which it needs to be adjusted both above and below the playfield to avoid said state ambiguity. Bottom line: bad microswitch design, bad design on Stern's part in choosing this particular microswitch. And for what it's worth, some of the current "fixes" being offered ($$$) to address the issue simply won't work. Until a reliable solution comes along, the fix is going to be trial-and-error removal, bending, and refitting the stock switch until it works reliably and consistently. Quite a pain in the ass.