Question for those with machines already. Theres a picture or two circulating showing potential playfield clearcoat lifting around posts. Anyone seeing this?
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Question for those with machines already. Theres a picture or two circulating showing potential playfield clearcoat lifting around posts. Anyone seeing this?
Quoted from wdbthree:37M+ jackpot lost on Paradise City last night. Knew I was pushing my luck, but was in the ZONE. (Until I wasn’t).
See now that needs to be documented in the game!
Played an le today. Once in song mode I had no desire for score, just to stay in song mode. When given the option to cash out I couldn't bring myself to not continue in song mode. Lots of fun, but my scores suffered accordingly.
Slight amount of pooling on posts but you had to look for it.
Quoted from Sako-TRG:Where’s this from.......let me guess, not another perfectly plausible JJP prototype
Dunno was posted on fb. I'm enquiring though.
Quoted from Sako-TRG:Where’s this from.......let me guess, not another perfectly plausible JJP prototype
2 week old machine yesterday
Quoted from screaminr:I was wondering how you would have got a machine so quick .
Obviously an early one and hopefully not one with the new super duper spectrum clear coat .
I haven't quite pulled the trigger yet. I'm 99.9.% there.....
Quoted from screaminr:Whether it's his game or not , it concerns everyone who is considering buying one .
It's not stirring the pot , it's sharing information .
Thank you. Exactly, trying to find out as much as I can before I spend. Not sure what the problem is?
Quoted from Vino:It’s quite simple.
A prototype photo vs production game from an owner is a big deal.
Let’s get the facts and not spam this thread
This is from an owners production game. 2 weeks old yesterday.
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:JJP warranty is a good read.
http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/general/jjp_warranty-updated.pdf
To note: Bumper to Post warranty for 90 days ONCE delivered!
Says 30 days when I read it.
Quoted from Rat:Yep, I had a brief conversation with him early last week, he said he didn't have much solid info but from what I remember there was going to be two shipments and the first was filled. But he wasn't even sure if both shipments could perhaps come at the same time. I guess they won't due to the popularity, but as I said no-one really knows yet.
But if you know more definite time lines or any different info then I would be happy to be better informed, he may know more now than he did last week
Saw Paul last week and had a flip. Pretty sure it's a January delivery, maybe late December if we're lucky. Or at least that's the latest info he told me.
Quoted from fooflighter:Glad you like that sub, I had recommended it in another post. It's got the hardware under the hood where it counts. Plus that's an amazing deal on Amazon right now..I paid $200 for that sub a couple months ago
Any suggestions for the Aussie market for a reasonably priced sub? Those recommend here aren't available in a AUS.
Quoted from fooflighter:https://www.amazon.com.au/Sony-SACS9-10-Inch-Active-Subwoofer/dp/B00O8YLIY6/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=subwoofer&qid=1603747740&sr=8-1&th=1
It looks like Amazon has the Sony in stock for Melbourne that uses the AUS storefront and ships from the US
$151 delivery fee though
Quoted from screaminr:Have a look on Gumtree , I got a basically brand new high end Dali for 200 bucks for my hobbit , it's probably overkill but hey , you can always turn it down
I'll keep an eye out. BTW I pulled the trigger today
Quoted from punkin:Convinced me, ordering the full pinwoofer today.
Ouch, shipping I'll wait until after I get the game and see if I can get a group order in.
Talk to Dan mate, he's really good about the whole thing.
The thing with an external sub for me (i have one that shares tween hobbit, deadpool and whatever game i set up with it now Tommy is gone, is that if, like me, you move games around the sub is in the way of the trolley. Also you have to climb in under it, unhook all those cables and move it when you move the game.
So yeah, exe solution, but contained. i just sold a shooter rod from my ASLE that pretty much covers the cost of the full pinwoofers kit, so i'm happy.So your still running an external sub along with the pin woofer kit?
Quoted from punkin:Talk to Dan mate, he's really good about the whole thing.
The thing with an external sub for me (i have one that shares tween hobbit, deadpool and whatever game i set up with it now Tommy is gone, is that if, like me, you move games around the sub is in the way of the trolley. Also you have to climb in under it, unhook all those cables and move it when you move the game.
So yeah, exe solution, but contained. i just sold a shooter rod from my ASLE that pretty much covers the cost of the full pinwoofers kit, so i'm happy.
Group buy is a great idea, i know two other guys here in Coffs that have ordered the LE, so once again, talk to Dan and i bet he'd give you great pricing for a few of them and you could cover your costs (unless he has an arrangement with someone here).
So your running an external sub along with the pin woofer kit?
Quoted from kermit24:Just had a massive game with 3 large song jackpots. The game is a rush with you get it going!!!
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Congrats. I can never cash out. Just want to stay in song. Having said that the jackpots haven't been massive.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:That sub has both high and low level inputs. Yes, alligator clips will work. Run the wire to the red/black tabs that are labeled speaker input. Jumper the wire over to both reds and both blacks
Awesome Thanks. Is the jumper necessary? Will it change the sound quality or power. Was thinking of hooking up two seperate machines as some people have done.
Quoted from kermit24:Yeah it is a good idea. Beware however as draining through that hole can put the ball in danger @ the right outlane.
If the machine is level l to r that shouldn't be an issue.
"I’ve heard some rumblings that Paul from Pinball Sales Australia has a container coming this month, but I’m not 100% sure."
Direct from someone at jjp
Quoted from Ballypinball:Hasn't left yet so doubt it will be here before Christmas and not as many games as expected
we are all having huge shipping delays out of the USA during Covid
Booooo
Quoted from pinsanity:Word of advice is to only get your JJP information direct from the official Australian distributor rather than someone purporting to be speaking on behalf of the official Australian distributor.
That way you never run the risk of being misled.
Yeah I know, was a bit of tounge in cheek.
Quoted from Yelobird:WTF lol. I just can’t pass up the risk/reward and mostly loose. Great score I’m still maxing out in the teens.
I'm 100% the same. Can't cash out while I'm rockin
Quoted from allsportdvd:I was just informed that we won't see a container of GNR pins in Australia until after February
The wait continues......
Seriously, from Paul? Dissapointing, only a few days ago he was expecting a container to ship any day.
Quoted from punkin:That's not what he was saying two weeks ago. Fuck.
Or 2 days ago, but I guess it's outa his control.
Quoted from screaminr:It was either going to be 33 or 66 games , so I'm assuming 33 fit into a small container , maybe double in a big container or maybe two small containers .
I'm not sure , just spewing it was 33 not 66 .
Jjp obviously not punching them out as quick as expected. Paul was told (told me) he would get 1 or 2 containers initially. Things then changed and we get what we are given. 33. 1/2 container
Quoted from screaminr:The light up Flipper buttons look really good .
Alot better than the yellow , they must have had a few left over from The Hobbit LE's
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screaminr are the illuminated red ones now stock?
Quoted from screaminr:I have no idea , I just showed the picture of them looking cool .
Try the usual suppliers or just google them.
Check out pinball spare parts Australia
https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/catalogsearch/result/?q=flipper+button
Might have to grab a set
Quoted from screaminr:They look great .
I think I will have to get some .
Australian group buy?
Quoted from Eskaybee:Plenty of wow moments in GNR and plenty of live and let die moments as well. But more importantly, the game is addicting as shit!
My personal experience, GNR came down to timing and the perfect storm and so thankful to be in the right spot and the right time. I was in the market for a new pin in September and put a deposit in on sterns next JP2 run. I really wanted a JJP pin but had no interest in GNR. I had two music pins at the time and was getting burnt out on music pins that play the same 10 songs for 30-45 seconds. I was dead set on not getting GNR, until they did what they did (those assholes! Haha). They did everything perfectly with this pin and it just wow’d me, this is a music pin!
Needless to say, I sold a pin and picked up both JP2 and GNRLE. GNR flippers felt very lackluster compared to my other sterns and JP2. The sterns are just snappier with more umph. Well, as many of you know, I spent nearly a week tweaking my GNR flippers - from power settings, to realigning, to trying many different types of rubbers. Well, I went to play some JP2 last night for the first time in awhile, the flippers felt like toothpicks - I was shocked. Turned the game off and went back to GNR. I’m sure I’ll give my other sterns and my other new JP2 some love again in due time, but GNR is a beast and plays so dam fun.
What power settings do you settle on?
Quoted from LTG:I don't think they are doing printed manuals anymore.
LTG : )
LTG which machines did they offer printed ones?
Quoted from screaminr:I know rrwoz came with one , Le Hobbit has one , pirates CE came with one , not sure about dialed in or wonka .
The Hobbit manual is as thick as a Melways .
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Thanks. Ive started collecting physical manuals. I like them for what they are. I have a Di and hobbit. Looks like I have few more jjp ones to hunt down.
Quoted from screaminr:I think it will be hard to get people to part with them and they were like 100 bucks each .
You can always go to Officeworks and get one printed up .
Printing in colour it's cheaper to just buy them.
Quoted from screaminr:Is that at Paul's , I got one stuck on the guitar block ball head and a few times in the pop bumper area .
Yes Paul's. No issues anywhere else. P.s also set new gc 8.2mil. So OOo much fun.
Quoted from screaminr:When I last played it , it had over 1000 games , and no bullshit , the Playfield looked perfect , there were tiny dimples but I had to get down low on an angle to try to see them .
The best bit is , with the new batch of games going out , no one has reported any Playfield issues . ( touch wood )
I did notice some very slight pooling on the lower post of the left sling. But very minor.
Quoted from screaminr:Looked like light reflection to me .
[quoted image]
Either way very minor
Has anyone with a machine looked at splitting from the hot rails and adding another set of rgb led's under cab/backbox, mimicking the CE to some degree. I wouldn't have thought it would be particularly difficult.
EDIT - or is their a spot on a board already? same board for ce and le?
Any chance single song mini gampley, or something similar will be incorporated in future codes? Would be fun for single somg competition among mates. Who can get biggest score, unlimited balls
Quoted from Cobra:They had mentioned in one of the videos a while back about future code having a mode to just play one song in its entirety with endless ball save.
Sweeeet, that's what I want
Quoted from screaminr:I made the mistake of waiting to play it first .
I'll be lucky to be in 3rd or 4th shipment .
I'm in the same boat
Will you be shipping internationally?
Quoted from PinMonk:Not yet. Next week, they'll be in the pinmonk store on pinside here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk
And also on pinmonk.com under the jjGnR section
I would love when a jackpot is lost that the jackpot score stays on screen a little while longer. Playing today I kept missing what the jackpot I had lost was. Also still think a biggest jackpot lost needs to be implemented in the saved scoring. pinball_keefer
Quoted from TigerLaw:Late, but I purchased an early order spot from another user.
Are there still some significant features they plan to build in? I’ve really not been following this thread as closely I should have been.
The mods for this game are incredible. That skull housing around the shooter and the bullet shooter Rod, what a combo those are. So tempting to order them before I get my game.
I believe they are planning and can't wait for single song mini modes. Would be so much fun challenging friends to the same song.
Quoted from punkin:Thank you, i'll see if i can find that in Australia.
Half an hour of google and this is all i can find here.
What size do i need? Anyone else in Aus want some, it's 4' lengths.
https://www.protectawall.com.au/polycarbonate-corner-guards/
punkin im guessing I'll need some when my game eventually arrives. Bunnings doesn't have anything similar?
Quoted from punkin:No, just in white. I emailed the guys at the place i linked to, it'll be a 4' length if it's not crazy money, there'll be enough to share with many for the cost of postage.
Good work. I'm in
Quoted from fooflighter:My Theory of why the clear PETG washers (carbon also) work better than mylar or metal washers: (Not saying that larger metal don't work as well or those who use mylar are doing it wrong...just I think the PETG solution is the best one for now)
(The pic below is after hot iron fix and 800+ plays...all my fixes are holding up as well 18+ fixes)
This is for those who want to fix/protect their games with the current playfields - I'm not posting this to discuss clearcoat and playfield methods, or how washers look ugly, detract from resale etc.... I think the playfield issue is a major problem and needs to be addressed but this is for those who want to keep their games and continue to enjoy them without worry
Hopefully this will encourage you to be proactive and protect your game with the right material
1. The sooner the better to prevent pooling as they best translate the forces away from the playfield
2. Notice the darker black ring around the post...that is the direct point of contact the washer is making in and around the post hole. The post is applying downward pressure but the flex of the PETG washer (while mostly rigid) is enough to just barely flex to a conical shape translating to a downward and outward force of the washer on the post hole rather than just a lateral "digging in" edge force a metal washer. Mylar works to a point but then bunches up, doesn't translate the force away enough, becomes compressed and loses effectiveness (see my crude sketch - sometimes a pic is easier to communicate)
3. By flex, I mean less than paper thin ....that space between the play surface and the outer washer area.
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fooflighter did you leave the original washers, metal or otherwise on the playfield And just add the petg ones underneath? Or remove them? Cheers
Quoted from Vespula:Congrats! What's your disty and order date?
Also wondering how does JJP do the numbering if we have two 5/21 dates but this one is 640 and the one darkryder just got is 1103 ?? That's at least 563 in one month?
Le numbering is random, plaques picked out of a box. Any order.
Quoted from brerspidur:T-splice into data/ground for each rail and then used an external power supply. Ran a total of 4 strips (2 long, 2 short) that were the same led count as the hot rails. long ones on the right under cabinet and behind backbox. short ones on left.
What's the led count on each side?
Quoted from Ashram56:WS2812 ledstrips are very common, and very cheap on Aliexpress if you're patient (delivery can take some time).
Here are the ones I regularly use for my "gizmos":
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/2036819167.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.517a7893sRGbvb&aem_p4p_detail=202106110524345248356825853200001705205
A 5m roll of IP30 60 led/m is 20 dollars. It can be cut anywhere to the correct lentgh, just at the pad (which are spaced every 1.5cm).
To note:
- Each led can consume up to 60mA, so if you have 5m at 60l/m is 300 leds, meaning 9A. Granted, it's full white and full brightness, so in practice it's slightly lower, but this still means you need a dedicated 5V PSU
- You need to reinject power every 150 leds or so, as the current decrease on the power line of the ledstrip. For this application therefore it's one power input for each ledstrip.
- The IP class will determine the "cover" of the ledstrip, IP30 is "raw", IP60 should give you a transparent silicon rubber above the ledstrip, which I recommend as it allows to protect the electronics
- From what I understand of the pinball electronic design, it seems to be just a matter of duplicating the data signal from the pinball ledstrip to the external ledstrip. While not strictly "by the book", it is possible to drive two ledstrips with one signal without any additional electronic (which is what has been done here I assume). If one is very picky on electronic design, you should add a single input dual output buffer. If you intend to drive two additional ledstrips (rear and back), then it's recommended to add the buffer in any case (as this would mean driving three outputs from a single control signal).
Thanks for the info. What's a buffer? (In this context)
Quoted from pinballjah:For those looking for side blades for their SE or LE, you can order the CE version directly from JJP or through your distributor. I saw some on a friend's CE and had to have a set. They look amazing! My set has arrived in Canada so will post some pictures when I pick them up. I have not seen them advertised on the JJP website. Cost is about $30US per side.
What do the ce blades look like? Can't find an image.
Anyone know where I can find the playfield /vinyl repair irons? I'm in Australia. Looks like it might be a worthwhile piece of kit moving forward.
Would this work? In the appropriate size and res.
AU $23.15 | 7/8/9/10.1Inch 1024*600 Screen LCD Display with HDMI VGA Driver Board Monitor for Raspberry/Banana/Orange Pi Mini Computer
https://star.aliexpress.com/share/share.htm?image=U8295f62ecfa24c53b4848e525bb1498dY.jpg&businessType=ProductDetail&title=AU%20%2423.15%20%7C%207%2F8%2F9%2F10.1Inch%201024%2A600%20Screen%20LCD%20Display%20with%20HDMI%20VGA%20Driver%20Board%20Monitor%20for%20Raspberry%2FBanana%2FOrange%20Pi%20Mini%20Computer&platform=AE&redirectUrl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fitem%2F4000332577259.html%3F%26srcSns%3Dsns_Copy%26tid%3Dwhite_backgroup_101%26mb%3DB42zWXeVDLqJYoO%26businessType%3DProductDetail%26spreadType%3DsocialShare
Quoted from Damonator:The resolution needs to match 800x480. If the resolution of the monitor is higher, the image won’t fill the entire screen (if it even works at all).
Yeah cheers. There are multiple options there including appropriate resolution
Quoted from PinMonk:Resolution's not the same, and the aspect ratio is off by a few percent. IF there's a "stretch" adjustment in the menu, it MAY work, but not a sure thing.
Within that link there is a 7 inch version with 800x480 resolution. Is that not what is required?
Quoted from Pinhead1982:I’m replacing JJP posts with WPC ones- Tight fit, post doesn’t move [quoted image]
Part number?
Quoted from screaminr:I might have to get a Melbourne one for the game room
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All the lithographs are tricky to find
Quoted from Bfults:Couple loose nuts here and there loose connector and the mylar on my drumsticks it’s really coming off I’m fixing to pull the drumsticks off and do the mylar fix on them.
What's the Mylar fix?
Quoted from PinMonk:Don't lose hope. I have no idea what's going in in SF lately, but I had a number of international packages go into that black hole and nothing happened for almost THREE WEEKS before they showed up in the destination country. This is not normal.
I did accidentally find out that International Priority Mail express is not subject to this black hole in SF. IPME packages move through SF in lightning speed, and don't cost that much more than regular international priority mail in some cases.
Pretty sure I'm one of them........still waiting.
Quoted from atg1469:I've replaced both trough boards, which were sent to me by Ken at JJP but they didn't help. I can make the issue stop by recalibrating the sensors but it'll ultimately come back after a few games. I haven't had time to go back in and troubleshoot it further, but I was told by another Pinsider that removing the plug from the skill shot area while the game was off was something to try. No idea if it'll work but can't hurt!
Cleaning the opto sensors on the board with IPA?
Quoted from screaminr:He lives down the road from me , maybe I should check it out
And just up from me
Quoted from Chetrico:Amazing show last night in Fargo!
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I want the poster!
Quoted from fooflighter:As you tighten down the post the center makes clear contact with the hole surrounding but as you proceed from the outward it's a micro thin layer that separates off of the playfield ... Your mileage may vary but 1700 plays later no chipping
Are you using the factory washers as well? Or just post to petg?
Quoted from PinWoofer:A ground loop isolator addresses most of the hum as you suggested, but it does not address the pops. harryhoudini offered some sort of relay on a timer item awhile back so you might check with him.
Does the pin woofer kit address any of these issues?
If anyone is going to any of the shows and wants to grab me one of the posters, would be very appreciated
How are people getting the larger t nuts to embed in the playfield? Just push? I imagine you don't want to torque it down.
Quoted from cooked71:The Marco longer 10-32 tnut comes to just below the surface of the pf. Not sure which one you’re using there?[quoted image]
Can you please provide link for these, I have wrong ones as well. Can only find ones with 9/32 barrel height. Cheers
Anyone else had issues with balls launching off the main ramp. Sometimes it will hit the bass guitar base plastic ( I think, it happens fast) and roll back down the ramp. Other times it will launch of the diverter at 90 degree angles and hit the right side of the machine. Hitting the base guitar has me worried about damage. It does hit with force! Looking for any solutions
Quoted from punkin:Yes, includes transport from Chicago to LA and there is another large box in that quote with a drop in playfield module.
It's tempting to go air, specially as i intend to claim the whole thing on tax.
How are you working the "tax" angle?
Quoted from Eskaybee:I’m trying to get back into using scorbit, and sucking ass at getting a good score recorded at that. But, Karl’s near billion point game was 2+ hours
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I wish Karl would do some more steaming. Always a pleasure to watch
Quoted from etr104:Well, 94 games in the books now on my game. I think I've solved a couple issues but not all.
First of all, playfield looks great so far, no hint of pooling or any other problems yet, so that's good.
I found the autolaunch to be weak, and occasionally taking two tries to launch a ball out. I was able to raise this by just one increment in the coil settings and now it seems perfect.
I found that I was getting a lot of weak flips right into the out lanes and that the left ramp was real hard to get to. I raised the flipper power by one increment in the coil settings and now the game plays much better.
As of right now though, my biggest issue is the center scoop! After about 70 or so games, my center scoop was firing balls SDTM. As suggested in the thread, I slightly loosened the 2 screws holding the center scoop in, then twisted it as far to the left as I could (there was a bit of play so I was able to turn it enough. Re-tightened and it was fantastic. However put 24 more games in the book and the scoop is once again firing the balls SDTM. I know one person in here suggested tilting up the scoop with a washer or two underneath but I don't quite have the dexterity to do that without removing the upper playfield (which I think is beyond my novice abilities, at least for now, maybe I'll build up more confidence).
So basically, I was able to correct the problem, only for the problem to be back within 24 games. Why is the scoop working it's way over like that? Would you suggest lowering the power of the scoop so that it doesn't work it's way out of alignment? I don't know, but I can't be removing my glass after every 25 games, there has to be a more long lasting fix.
Has anybody ever contact JJP Support about this issue? What have they said?
Make sure game is 100% level from l to r!
Can anyone tell me the name of the connector for the backbox led strip? Looking to mod but utilise the og connector. Cheers
Quoted from Blackjacker:Moles 0.093” 2-circuit (Below is what I used from Amazon; certainly these are cheaper through Mouser or your local joint)
amazon.com link »
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Awesome thanks!
Quoted from PinPickle:Fan of GnR. Not quite as much. Seen them a couple times but seeing you post makes me want a Pearl Jam pin even worse. Seen PJ 20+ times.
Sick guitar!! Congratulations on getting your dream pin.
Me too, but unfortunately will never happen
There really needs to be a way to opt out of a song. As getting mystery spotted additional band members and auto starting song is very frustrating when not ready. Same as mystery start song. Maybe it's as simple as hitting the action button when the song starts and having an option along with song selection to cancel start song.
Quoted from mtp78:Just curious after the game boots up and comes to life anyone get a loud solenoid sound? almost like a knocker or an electric solenoid being fired. Its only on start ups and happens once, It everyone time and i cannot isolate where it's coming from.
I asked tech support and they have no idea
Not but I have multiple loud thud sounds through my speakers and sub. Terrible noise!.
Quoted from punkin:First JJP eh? Hobbit is worse. There's a guy on the Hobbit owners thread made a board to delay the amp from starting until boot, stops it if it annoys you. i just turn it on and walk away.
Link? Can't find it.
Edit : t h ink this is the one https://pinballmods.co/jersey-jack-pinball-mods/jjp-startup-pop-eliminator-device
I want to add a spotlight to axl similar to what someone on here did previously. However instead of always illuminated I wanted to tap into the gi, so it changes colours with the game play. Someone with more expirperience can probably point me in the right direction of a suitable led/light. Looks like it has 4 or 5 wires connected. Thanks
My headphone jack appears to have stopped working. The audio from the machine cuts out when headphones are plugged in but I get no sound through them. If I turn the headphone volume up high I can head some faint volume coming from the machine. Weird!! Any suggestions? Was working the one previous time I used it.
i'm not sure who the sorebit guys are here to tag, but i'm loving watching the app progress.
Two things i would love to see would be to track the jackpots on the graph, even if they are lost. That way you can see how high your jackpot got in comparison to the actual scoring graph.
Secondly i'd love ipad compatibility, i set up my ipad next to my machine and theres so much real estate on the tablet to expand the graph horizontally and show even more details of the gameplay.
Keep up the good work!!
A question regarding the cliffys scoop, I installed mine but it didn't "clip" under the playfield properly no matter what I did. It was too tight and wouldn't go under properly. Has anyone else experienced this. Now as I play the game it seems that the balls hitting it are flattening out the bend/ folds in the metal (straightening it) causing the bottom of the cliff to protrude further into the hole. Hope this makes sense and can get some help.
Quoted from glpinball:Change your display name.
But that changes my user name I believe that people search for
Issue last night. Collected a power chord jackpot. Game only spits back out some of the balls and resets the power chord with multiple balls already locked. Anyone else had this issue?
Quoted from RA77:I feel you pain bro
Was really jamming on out ta get me, then this
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I had the same issue after installing some plastic protectors and washers. Once I did the back section it levelled back out.
Quoted from arzoo:Ok, my GnR was delivered last week and I'll start by saying, wow, it was worth the ten month wait! As for NIB/delivery issues, other than adjusting the lock-down bar, the game was near perfect! But jump back some months ago when all the PF issues were coming to light and I gotta say, I was seriously considering backing out (glad I didn't).
Anyway, pre-emptively I purchased, Cliffys, PETG washers, larger T-nuts, and some B/W posts, and for the past few days I've been hopefully "bullet-proofing" the pin. But I have to say, I'm not sure any of this stuff (other than the Cliffys) is necessary. Seems like JJP has done their best to mitigate the PF issues with washers (black), lock nuts, and longer/thicker posts. It's also possible the later PFs cured longer (mine has an October manufacture date on the back edge). Only time and game play will tell, but it does seem like lately there's been fewer people posting about PF delamination.
For me, I enjoy breaking down any pin I acquire (new or old), so adding the washers and a couple longer T-nuts (what a PITA), was mostly therapeutic lol. But again, imo with these later builds I'm not sure it's necessary.
Here's some pics of my over-kill...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Make sure you protect the two posts behind the scoop holding the side guides! Mine seemed all good but now have chipping. At least it's not normally visible.
Quoted from jsa:We're getting reports of some odd challenge behavior, so let me clarify what is the intended way for this to work:
Two types of challenges we refer to from time to time: Challenge and Challenge Match. For the sake of this post, assuming I'm talking about Challenges, because Matches are done a different way in an upcoming release.
Challenges are taunts, or tags, to people you know AFTER you've played a game.
If the app is open when the game is over, you'll see a series of screens that let you add a photo, tag others (challenge), and share.
[quoted image]
What you do is after a game is finished, tag the people you want to receive the challenge, then hit "Send Challenge."
What should happen next is that the person who received the challenge gets a notification.
**If the target user checks their challenge menu or challenge tab in their profile,** they will see an option to accept the challenge.
They have 7 days to accept or it disappears.
Once a challenge has been accepted, the next game you play counts against that challenge. You can tell if you won or lost based on the score card in the screen when the game is complete:
[quoted image]
There are a ton of known issues here, and all we're working hard to resolve quickly. For example, we will be showing you the score and the challenger when you're playing the game, and let you choose which one you want to challenge instead of handling it FIFO-style. Also, there have been some folks seeing challenges that shouldn't! We're looking into that as well. Understand, these are casual challenges. They are meant to be fun and done in a social spirit, and played casually. The Matches (coming soon) are premeditated, you can't just score a great game then challenge someone, everyone commits and the next game they play, good or bad, counts against the Match.
Hopefully this makes sense!
So I only have 1 game to play, the next one after I accept the challenge to beat the score?
Quoted from jsa:Correct, assuming you've only accepted one challenge for that game. If you accepted 3 from 3 different people, it will handle them first-in-first-out.
We're changing this to let you choose and so on. Sorry for the confusion!
I would have thought it would be better to have a time limit and multiple attempts on a challenge. People are generally only going to challenge someone when they get a good score and the game can be so fickle. Having only 1 attempt seems very limiting as the game can be all or nothing.
I'm not challenging someone when I have a 200k score game. But I might on 20mil. Doesn't give the challengee a fair cracks at it.
Quoted from PeterG:These indeed are 3d printed and design is free on thingiverse so you can go to a local 3d shop and print them out. You could even go for metal if you want to pay for that.
Link?
Anyone else had the corner of the bass ramp plastic chip? It sits directly above the ramp exit onto the upper playfield and has taken a few ball strikes. Any recommendations for protecting this corner? Cheers
looking at the pingraffix site.... when are the gnr holographics versions of the art blades going to be released. will look heaps better than stock imho
Quoted from PinMonk:Ah, I knew the targets toggled the songs, but I didn't realize that SPECIFIC targets toggled songs from a specific album only. That would explain it. I use one target pretty much exclusively to change songs. At least now I know I can get off Chinese Democracy with a little more effort.
Thanks!
The start song from each album should be randomised, that way the starting song is always different when song is lit.
Has anyone else had issues with the scoop cliffy bending up into the scoop over time (from under the playfield) . I'm now on my second one and it seems to be doing the same thing. Seems like the ball hitting the fold point is slowly opening it up and straightening it out
so... super frustrated here.
Around a month ago i had an issue with the sensors on the upper playfield. I ended up changing out the board and that seemed to resolve the issue. I'm now having the same issues again.
On startup three sensors are failing calibration, i am able to manually calibrate them afterwards. During gameplay the sensors seem to work and register the balls arriving on the upper playfield, however when in a song it looses track of how many balls are up there, doesn't release all of the balls after a powerchord jackpot is scored or timed out and then automatically starts a new powerchord registering the balls already up there from previously. After the game all sensors have the (uncalibrated) ring around them in the test screen.
I feel it's highly unlikely that it's a board again, although it may be. Open to suggestions on what else to check/change. Its currently unplayable in this condition.
8CEDBE0C-5401-4B95-B054-A824FEC5D1FE (resized).jpegE41880EA-E54A-4DC9-9B73-91BBA80F7C53 (resized).jpegQuoted from LTG:I wonder if it would be worth trying a factory reset and if that doesn't do it, a full install of the software ?
LTG : )
Thanks LTG i may give that a go if all else fails, however my gut is telling me this is a hardware issue. Seeing as it has happened previously. maybe a bad cable?
Quoted from PinMonk:Have you tried to clean the lenses of the inserts (with non-ammonia cleaner) and the sensors on the board (with rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip)? There may just be a film of coil dust developing on one or both.
How much have you played the game in that month?
PinMonk I haven't as yet, I will do as I'm gonna have to pull everything apart anyway. I have a feeling the board may be disconnecting intermittently causing the issue. So maybe a connection or cable. Again only a gut feeling but frustrating as I've been through this before.
Quoted from swampy:I had similar issues to this (all sensors went out in fact), and I traced the fault to a loose/poor connector in the back box. Perhaps check this to rule it out.
I've had two GNR's so far with a bad connection here. [quoted image][quoted image]
swampy thabks. I'll deff check that out. Was it a visible issue or did you have to pull the connection/pins apart to find it?
Update : tried it and even removed the Tibetan breeze connector to see if that helped. Unfortunately no luck.
LTG swampy PinMonk RA77 CoolCatPinball Thank all for your advice and support.
I was feeling quite dejected yesterday and didn't quite know where to go to try and isolate this issue again.
I will pull apart the upper playfield today and implement all of your recommendations. I have purchased a new ethernet cable as well to swap out. Hopefully when all done it clears the issue. If not i guess i have to try another new board.
btw PinMonk around 120 games since i replaced the board.
This forum is excellent and an amazing resource
Also had The lights dim on the game during play once or twice. Not coded. Think it was the hotrails going out. Also having a some distortion & noise on the r tweeters. Not sure if this is related.
Hi All,
Just thought i'd share my progress with the flakey guitar lock sensors. I seem to have rectified the issue, without fixing the problem.
Long story short, after taking in upper playfield off and on multiple times with the game both on and off and getting different results each time, by chance i noticed as i loosened the upper playfield (with the game on) it all came good.
So essentially if i screwed the playfield in super snug it was putting pressure on a connector disabling the guitar lock sensors, loosening the front most screw (guitar head) by 1 revolution!!!! to just snug released the pressure enough to work properly.
So its a connector issue
Finally closed out a jockpot and set high score #6 (it's been a while) With a new call out I've never heard before. " Alright, high score. Time to jerk off to some porno "
Some help with this one. I've had guitar bord sensor issues previously and the bord has been replaced. Now I'm having one sensory not working. After a calibration it's showing up as all 00000's and now moving at all. Individual sensor doesn't seem to be working anymore.
99A3579E-17BB-4DD3-8BDC-EF16B2410E28 (resized).jpegQuoted from PinMonk:USB unplugged or loose, so no power? I don't remember how this is connected, but it sounds like an unplug situation.
Not sure.....it's just the one sensor that's not responding. Will do further investigation.
So apparently it's maintaince day. While testing I heard something fall into the cab. Upper flipper had undone itself. And apparently pooling and tearing of artwork still happens even with the fixes. Petg washer and Williams post. Not sure what else to do about the playfield.
0F5C0121-6D44-47E9-86E8-4D5717A09A50 (resized).jpeg625F1783-3F60-4D51-966F-2B64D3BC5ECD (resized).jpeg72E8619A-68A1-4CA2-A07E-23AB26FF9893 (resized).jpegHad anyone seen this before? I'm not sure if each guitar lock has one led or two but on the middle right guitar lock there seems to be some ghosting or something similar. I have had some calibration issues but atm is working OK. No its not a reflection and I don't believe there's space for an led below the guitar lock to be illuminating it. Not sure how to post videos here but In the video you can see it flashing with the scoop eject sequence.
3A343F70-B93E-455E-AC85-0AE8FCBC4E02 (resized).jpeg5F7475D3-C87E-4C51-A8CD-D026EEB03A59 (resized).jpegI've had a snubber break. None available in country or posted without exorbitant expense. Anyone have suggestions for replacement? Happy to buy a whole sheet of the stuff and cut it down to size. Cheers
Quoted from Xelz:I have the Cliffy (and plan to install the other Cliffy protectors elsewhere). There have been reports of Cliffy’s scoop protector edges lifting on GNR, hence the question.
I've had two cliffys fail/lift up within the scoop. Not sure why, they were installed correctly. Ball hitting the fold seems to straighten it out.
Quoted from adrock:You guys definitely removed the OEM metal ring lining the inside of the scoop right? It wasn’t super clear from the Cliffy install instructions. But that’s critical to get a good fit of the Cliffy.
My Cliffy hasn’t budged in a year and snapped in like a glove.
Yes oem one was removed. Cliffy had a nice tight fit. Snapped into place ect. Not sure why mine straightens out. Although I know I'm not alone.
Quoted from PinWoofer:Greetings Shmilder ! The kit is about 5Kg/10lbs so that quote is the best we can do. However, we will upgrade you to UPS Worldwide Expedited free of charge (we do not ship USPS outside of US and Canada). So, you'll take delivery in Australia within about 7-10 calendar days based upon recent experience.
Thanks for asking and best wishes!
PinWoofer appreciate the offer but postage is a deal breaker atm. i'll wait until i find another solution to get one here.
Have reseated all cables on board and backbox, the fact the game reset midway through and now i have this error makes me think something has blown open to any and all other suggestions to try.
Quoted from PinMonk:Try reseating all the USB and mini-usb connectors at the computer in the backbox and the boards under the PF. It's more likely that one of those has wiggled loose from the shaker action. JJP really should use screw-lock USB connectors instead of cheap consumer-level USB plug only cables.
Cheers PinMonk I have looked at every connector I could find. Including unplugging all usb's from the computer and reseating. I will go through them again though just in case.
Quoted from PinMonk:With the backbox open and the coin door closed and the power on, do all the fuses on the left side of the big circuit board below the computer box have a lit LED next to them?
yes all red led corresponding to each fuse.
Quoted from RA77:I assume that the red / black is 5v ?
Sorry I am not home to check.
If it is remove plug and then if 5v comes up you may have a bad pcb.
Might have to raise a ticket there
Checked with a multimeter, getting 4.76v from that connector. is that what you were asking? But would that single bad pcb cause the whole lot to go down?
Quoted from PinMonk:There's another fuse block coming off the ATX power supply. That has power for the accessories and like 5-6 fuses. I don't remember where it is, though. Maybe inside the computer case? I'll have a look in a bit if you can't find it.
Definitely be doing this part with the power off.
PinMonk I had been looking for that accessory fuse box, F1, F2 ect but haven't been able to find it. Unless i'm looking at it and not knowing its it
Quoted from RA77:4.76 is too low
Check again on the plug not the board when unplugged. The game may even start.
Essentially you are isolating the board.
If the board has failed it may put extra load on the 5v pulling 5v down.
RA77 PinMonk I appreciate your help with this. Plug was unplugged from the board and measured 4.7?v i checked on another board as well, unplugging it and measuring at the connector. Same result. Can the 5v be adjusted on the PSU or has it failed and i need a new one to deliver full 5v?
I can start a game no issues, just no lighting or sensors, so unplayable. Everything else seem to work fine.
Quoted from jhallsuxatpinbal:Yup entire playfield went dark. Disconnecting the USB’s in the back box and reconnecting brought it back to life.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Tried multiple times. Unfortunately not working for me
Quoted from Wanderers:Hi
Iv got a fault flashing up on the bottom left of the screen.
No Sensor found check PDF Board
Please can some one advise ???
Thankyou in advance
Simon
I've had this same issue as well, I believe my post is pinned. As PinMonk said it was the pressure on the network cable under the guitar neck.
So to keep everyone up to date with my issues (and to keep them for prosperity in case it can help anyone else, I replaced the under playfield io controller board, which brought back most of my lighting. The guitar head board still had no lights or sensors. This was then replaced and it seemed to sort out the issues. All lighting and sensors were back.
Then playing my first test game I blew fuse F708 during a song. Off to the store for a replacement fuse. Then tested and everything was working again so another test game and again during a song another fuse blew. This time it was fuse F702 further up the chain. This fuse is associated with F708 & F707. However both of these don’t seem to have blown.
Is anyone able to give some help in trying to diagnose this new problem? I have looked through the wiring of the coils associated with these fuses and cant see any issue or short.
Very frustrated atm!!
Anyone with precision flippers on their machine? Thoughts? What style /colour did you go for? Photos?
Quoted from RA77:I am missing my GnR to the extreme. I enjoyed the rush of Erics GnR immensely.
Killed me to battle with on going errors.
I may be a sucker for punishment.
Wanting to get back in the game with an LE.
I just hope to get one that is not possessed. [quoted image]
There's a few around
Quoted from Kenz:What could be causing this.
[quoted image][quoted image]
They are metal filings. Should wipe off.
I Also wish it would keep each power chord high score and name. Not just the last person to achieve it. Or do both, High and current holder.
Does anyone have any good images of the ce playfield differences and sparkle?
Trying to get a good look at the differences but can't seem to find anything.
Has anyone with the precision flippers installed had and issues with clamping the flippers. There is an additional upgrade for the clamps. Some machines need them some don't. Depends on the manufacturer. Not sure how it is for jjp/gnr. anyone have any experience?
Can someone who purchased a replacement ce playfield please let me know what jjp was charging? Thanks
I don't believe magnet fires during frenzy. And getting the extra ball during multiball can be difficult depending on settings. If It can't hit a pop beforehand then multiball makes that difficult as there are always balls in the pops.
I turned on my machine and the spotlight and hex LED's are all out. Any help on where I should start looking? Cheers.
Quoted from screaminr:Have you tried reseating them or looking at the fuses .
[quoted image]
Yes tried reseating cables and checked fuses in backbox. Also checked and confirmed power going into the hex lights board, which also feeds the spotlights. Thinking it may be the hex lights board. Open to other suggestions.
Finally..... so after nearly a year stuck on 98million i finally cracked the ton today!! Figured you guys would appreciate my happiness.
My spinners are cracked and chipped. Anyone else's the same? What do replacements cost? Where can I get them?
Hi all, I’m looking for some advice/recommendations.
I have had ongoing intermittent issues with my guitar sensors disconnecting, (since I got the machine in 2021) ie turning red when viewed in the sensor test screen. I have tried different ethernet cables and switched the sensor board (now switched back to original) and various other things but the game always seems to have issues with the guitar sensors.
Currently the game plays fine when turned on and I may get 1, 2 or 5 games in but eventually it loses connection and makes the game unplayable. If I turn the machine off and on again it’s back to normal and the cycle repeats.
The fact that a simple restart of the machine is resetting the issue seems to me like its not a connection issue but at this stage I don't know what to do anymore.
Its really getting me down as I love the machine but anytime a get a good game going it loses connection and the game is ruined.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!
Quoted from fooflighter:Okay I just had this problem with my shooter lane and it was driving me nuts, what I did was switch the usb's on the motherboard on the right side in the backbox. Literally just swapped them with each other. (you can unplug one at a time to find the one that contains your sensor data) Then did a sensor calibration in the testing menu after swapping. I'm not sure if it was the slots themselves, the usb assignments the system gave them or what, but it cleared the problem up permanently for me for the past 3 months, no issues and lots of play testing. Hopefully this does the trick for you on the guitar. You could also try running a splitter for both cables into 1 port at a time to try and isolate a bad port if that is the issue. I'm not sure how the software would respond to this but it may be a workaround.
fooflighter thanks for the info, at this point i'll give anything a crack. The guitar sensor board goes through the i/o board under the playfield and then onto the motherboard via usb. I might switch out both usb cables and also try different usb ports Fingers crossed.
Quoted from zaphX:Just get the board, eyeballing them side by side there's a lot more to it than just the caps IMO.
zaphX the board you purchase is fully populated so would work on all the games. Boards in games already are only populated for that specific game. That's my understanding.
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