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Jersey Jack, 2020
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Jersey Jack, 2020
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Jersey Jack, 2020You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mbwalker.
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Quoted from fooflighter:I had a pretty similar idea 7 months ago when the first 100 were having issues. My idea got poopooed ...I bet it would work though, not all over the playfield (space requirements) but key areas that take a pounding
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-jjp-gnr-thread/page/35#post-5926668[quoted image]
Nice idea.
I'd just stick a t-nut on the top of the PF, secure with a nut/washer on the bottom of the PF.
Quoted from PinMonk:3D printed, rubber or silicon wouldn't likely be hard enough. Seems like it would need a metal sleeve, but it would be very hard to get the tolerances right to completely eliminate the slop and still make it possible to get the post in. Maybe a hardwood ring that you hammer in? But with such thin walls of the ring, it seems like it might crack...
Seems like some experimentation is in order.
Next size up post screw perhaps?
Quoted from Pinhead1982:The above is what I was thinking also.. there is a silicone company that can make bushings to size..
All I need is the dimensions.
I posted this on the other JJP thread the other day. Just from a quick google search.
Edit: Here's a place that sells the flanged sleeves: https://www.mcmaster.com/spacers/multipurpose-flanged-sleeve-bearings/
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from atg1469:...I appreciate the fact you won’t have to remove the light bars every time you need to raise the playfield, but they still adhere to the sides. For me, the biggest annoyance about Pinstadiums is the width that the magnetic tape adds to the sides; especially if yours like me and can’t help but add mirror blades to every game you own! So for me the mounts are not a game changer, the lights themselves that’s a different story!
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That's an interesting idea.
Quoted from websherpa:A "smart" wifi surge protector between the pinball machine and the wall outlet would make this same affect with a bit less hassle and have added benefits (voice control of multiple machines, surge protection, complete power off when turning machines off - which is always a good idea).
They make a controlled outlet strip where when the 'control' outlet (where the pin would plug in) doesn't draw any current - the other outlets are are off. When the pin is turned on, then other outlights for a topper or other accessories turn on automatically.
No IOT, Alexa, etc. needed.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-P8GT-Power-Saving-SurgeArrest-Protection/dp/B002K8S2J6/ref=sr_1_11
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Quoted from daveyvandy:That's another great option if you don't mind having more than one power cord coming out of the machine.
I was thinking more of an aftermarket topper and the outlet strip would be behind the pin. But if it was placed inside of the pin, then you could use the service outlet.
What are you trying to control?
Quoted from pinballmike150:My daughter just completed her Appetite for Destruction painting she started more than 8 months ago. Earned herself $200 spending money for the beach, so it worked out pretty well for her.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow, she needs to sign it in the bottom corner!
Quoted from cooked71:...One day I’ll try an external sub.
Give it a try, you'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner. 
Even the 90's pins have a lot of great bass hiding in the soundtracks.
Quoted from PinballGalore:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4898252/files
Does anyone know if there’s a problem with this file? My brother has tried to print this file out but says something isn’t right, and wondering if there’s a different one that might work.
And chiming in on current affairs, Ken Holland has been super responsive and helpful time and time again, trying to sort out my skill shot/auto plunge issue and definitely deserves a shout out here.
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Cura will report if the model is not water tight (happens time-to-time w/Thingiverse files). Not sure if it makes a difference or not, I think it does for resin printing. Fix is to just load into the free Microsoft 3D Builder. 3D Builder will prompt you if you'd like it repaired (yes), then just resave using the standard STL format (3D Builder default is 3MF, just change to STL).
Hope this helps.
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Idaho Falls, ID